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Take the reserve capacity of the battery, divide by 4, and the drain should not exceed that number of milliamperes.
For my 03 leSabre, 115 minutes divided by 4 = 29. So 29 milliamperes is the expected maximum.
This applies to H-body GMs from their Helminc.com factory service manual.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If the rear struts and associated tubes are seeping air, the lowering level activates the pump to pump it back up. When you remove the fuse for that circuit, does the car level lower over hours when there is no pumping back up the pressure to restore height?
Also, the BCM (blower control module) for the blower motor on the systems with automatic temp control can fail in a mode where the blower motor stays on even with the ignition key OFF. Other failures are to quit working or give erratic speed controls. So be alert for that also.
The interior lights should be controlled by a module, body control?, that turns off the lights after about 10 minutes. Do all Park Aves for 1994 have that feature? Or is yours a Custom model that didn't have that in the package or the options?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Replace with a Delco brand. Off market MAFs have given lots of troubles. They can be cleaned with sprays if they are just dirty. Do not touch the wires inside them that the air cools to measure air flow.
You could need to clean the EGR which might not be closing all the way. It affects the air flow and balance if it doesn't stall the motor.
How is the fuel pressure from the fuel pump in the tank?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
With my car, I replaced the lift actuator for the trunk and afterwards the int. lights will not go off like they're supposed to. After the 10 min. limit they go off but when I shut the door, click lock on the key fob, and put the car in drive.... they stay on. When you unlock on the key fob it's supposed to turn on all the lights outside for a brief time... only the regular headlights come on (not the parking lights) and they only stay on for a few seconds.. inside there's a panel above my mirror on the roof that has several labels for each light that it monitors... my tail lights one is lit up yet both of my tail lights work fine. The slide controls that deal with the twilight and brightness/int constant on... are all set to normal positions.. but this stuff is still having issues. Can ANYONE please answer this?
okay, my buick started off fine, then about 6 months ago, the battery just started draining. sometimes, it would take a couple of days, but since the battery's got warn down, it now takes a few hour to go dead. i replaced the battery 2 times.(big waste of money lol) the car will start, but it needs to receive a jump to do so. it will run with the battery unplugged, so its not the alternator. the vats system acts up to. like sometimes it will take me 10-20 minutes to start it cause of that. when i try to start it when its dying, it makes a strange very fast clicking sound in the relays. and the ac turns on when it wont start aswell. when it does start, everything is fine except for the light indicator(the thingy that tells u when a bulb is out). the 8 red lights on it blink fast. i checked all the bulbs, they are all fine. someone told me that the computer under the dash could be bad, but i pulled that, and everything was fine. i even started it without the entire computer hooked up, and it made no difference to anything. my buick sat for a few months, due to lack of money. but i have the money now, and i really want to get this thing running correctly. any help would be much appreciated. thanks in advanced.
As for your stall problem..
I take it you are over 100k miles?
If so have you ever had your fuel filter changed?
I'd do that, and then have all 6 of those fuel injectors swapped for some re-manufactured ones.
That or have a shop flush them professionally for you, I'm betting you will notice a big difference after getting this done.
I say this because I had a similar stall problem for years, and I found out I had two bad injectors, my car was at 134k when it finally died due to the fuel injectors.
As for the car wanting to go on its own, I read about that somewhere, I believe it may have to do with the Idle Air Control Sensor, the Throttle Position Sensor, or maybe it was the Mass Airflow Sensor.
The IAC & MAF can be easily cleaned off if they are a bit carbon fouled.
Just throwing some ideas out there, I am no mechanic, so maybe somebody else out there knows how to better help you.
That will be attached to the throttle body, and should be easy to remove, it should have 2-3 screws.
It can be cleaned with MAF Cleaner available at any auto part store, just DO NOT touch the little metal elements you will see once you remove it, or damage them in any way.
I'd also consider having the EGR cleaned, as imidazol had another good suggestion, I have a 96' Park Ave and had some rough idle issue for a long time, I found out my MAF was a little dirty, my EGR was occasionally sticking open due to so much carbon build up.
I also had a Idle Air Control Valve that was carbon fouled, so you may want to have it cleaned as well.
Here is a pic of what it looks like.
http://z.about.com/w/experts/Auto-Parts-3319/2009/09/IAC.jpg
Last, but not least, if the car has over 100k miles on it, consider having the fuel injectors flushed, if not swapped out for 6 re-manufactured ones, you should be able to get 6 of them for 160.00-180.00.
http://www.injectorwarehouse.com
Now the problem started, on the way home from the shop, and the car running great, it set the code PO-401. My tester reads that as "EGR insufficient flow" (This is a first). So back it went to the repair and smog shop. After 3 weeks in the shop, they say its operating fine, including the EGR system, but the computer will reset the PO-401 ever time its driven. GM has no computer flash (re-programing ?) for this code.
Everything in the EGR system was replaced, some items twice, plus all lines cleaned. Even the intake manifold was removed again to make sure the new gaskets were not at fault.
It has never had a PO-401 code before.
Any ideas? I live in Calif and must find a solution.
Thanks Mike.
check for leaks in the exhaust system
check for clogged inlet or outlet ports TO the EGR.
Also:
Check for the following conditions:
Vacuum restriction to the MAP sensor. A restriction to the MAP sensor can cause the EGR flow test to fail due to insufficient MAP changes being monitored during the test. Check for objects blocking the vacuum to the MAP sensor. Also check for kinked or pinched MAP sensor vacuum hoses (if equipped.)
Poor connection at PCM or EGR Valve. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, observe the actual EGR position display on the scan tool while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the EGR valve. A change in the display will indicate the location of the malfunction.
Anyways, if you ever want to sell the car in the future please email me.
Thanks,
Lou
my email is diputs5643@aol.com
I do know that this info will help you because I have the same problem. Well hope you can save some money.
Here we go. Before, buying the body control module, you should check these six things.
1) check to see if wires come together in the harness
2) check camshaft sensor wires
3) check crankshaft sensor wires (2 and 3 check to see if wires come together in harness)and change and or retape wiring. Insulation wears out and they touch. Follow the wires from the cam and the crank and make sure they are not touching.
4)Check to see in you have a blown amp
5) Check fuel injection wires and make sure there not touching nothing
6) Finally, check on the 1194 Buick recall for the (starter).
The check engine lite would come on for all these problems, especially if its the wiring....sometimes the blank rapidly and then sometimes one or two lights stay lit.
Hope this help everyone out. Pay it forward and let me know the outcome.
Babysis
5)
Please help
What opening or where is the door located that controls the air flow from the vent to the defrost or floor?
#52 is the actuator for the air door that switches flow from defrost to dash to floor.
#51 may also be an actuator for driver or passenger. Your car has dual air controls, I assume...
The actuators have white parts that show after you take off the hush plastic panel under the dash. By turning on the Key and operating the controls, you should see movement if the actuator is moving.
Check connectors for poor contacts by reseating them.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The only snag I see here is how to support the engine if you don't have the special tool---you'll have to figure out a way to do that safely.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the bolts from the A/C compressor splash shield.
Remove the splash shield.
Drain the coolant.
Remove the supercharger drive belt.
Remove the drive belt.
Remove the coil pack. Position the coil pack out of the way.
Remove the supercharger belt tensioner.
Install the engine support fixture J 28467A
Remove the engine mount.
Remove the power steering pump.
Remove the engine mount bracket.
Remove the idler pulley.
Remove the water pump pulley.
Remove the water pump.
Clean all of the gasket mating surfaces.
Using a new gasket, install the water pump on the engine.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the water pump bolts.
Tighten the bolts (1) to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
Tighten the bolts (2) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
Install the water pump pulley. Tighten the bolts to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.).
Install the idler pulley.
Install the engine mount bracket.
Install the power steering pump.
Install the engine mount.
Remove the engine support fixture.
Install the supercharger belt tensioner.
Install the coil pack.
Install the drive belt.
Install the supercharger drive belt.
Refill the coolant.
Install the A/C compressor splash shield.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Check for coolant leaks.
Concerned about the possibilty of something that might start a fire I moved the car of the garage and looked under the hood for loose conections and everything seemed normal. I put the car back into the garage. When I drove the car a few hours later I noticed a once per second clicking sound from the drivers side underdash which lasted for several minutes. I have heard this sound occasionally over the years but have never had a power failure assoicated with it.
After reading several posts about problems envolving the auto headlight control I know that when I enter the garage my auto headlights come on. Although I didn't specifically notice at the time my headlights probably came on when had the power failure and I think they came on later when I heard the clicking sound.
What is the likely cause of this momentary failure and what can I do to avoid it and the concern that the next power might not be restored?.
Other known problems are: struts and shocks need replacing, front wheel bearings need replacing, engine mounts look to need replacing, ABS light remains lit(has for several years...no braking issues), fuel gauge sensor in fuel tank is going bad and indicates wrong fuel gauge readings. The shop does not believe any of these items is related to the car quitting. Shop had a GM Master Mechanic check it out and he said it was fine and not sure why it would quit like that.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Most likely a crank position sensor. (CKP) Y2k models seem to have the largest problem with this part failure, according to what I've read.
It's a pretty common problem, not sure why a GM MM wouldn't have known.
It's about a $30 part at your local autoparts store + labor. I've known some mechanics to install for $50, but that is probably below normal rate.
I agree none of the other issues you listed would be the culprit.
Unfortunately the problem shows up intermittantly, but will get worse over time until it won't restart right away, it may pause for 15 mins.
In the past I just put the car in neutral (very carefully :surprise: ) , restarted the car, and dropped it back into drive. Probably not as safe as pulling over and stopping, but if there isn't anywhere to pull over, it is an option that works.
I'm 99.94% sure that will fix it and you will go back to being comfortable in relying on it.
Our A/C is delivering cold air on the driver's side and hot, hot air on the passenger side. The floor fan is very hot air, too. Your help is greatly appreciated.
For the past 2 years I have heard something in the dash that sounds like a door trying to open or close, almost like the noise a blood pressure cup makes when pumping up, but everything in the climate control has worked just fine until this past week.
So, I think an actuator is stuck or broken based on what I can find on various websites. Where is this so called actuator? I know it's under the dash somewhere, but can anyone point me in the right direction? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
HVAC box diagram
Page of parts numbers corresponding to diagram
Good luck and let me know what you find.
The earlier actuators on the leSabres before 2000 had a white plastic gear inside that cracks. Then the gear slips on the hub it's a press fit on. The hub doesn't move the arm that moves the blend door or other doors. I repaired mine with superglue to hold the gear on the hub. I placed the split in the gear so it wouldn't meet the small driving gear during the 200 deg. range of motion controlled by a nub on the hub shaft on the outside of the box.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks again,
Mike
Are you able to move the blend door after the actuator is off and have the blend door stay at the heat you pick even when the blower fan puts pressure on it? Or do you have to fasten it with a rubber band or string or something to hold it against the air pressure?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I should have it on Saturday morning, and I'll let you know.
Thanks again,
Mike
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Mike
Disconnect negative battery terminal for 5 minutes
Reconnect and turn ignition on, the HVAC should set to 75
turn off climate control and wait 5 minutes
When I started the car, I was back in business.
Fun.