About 2 months ago i drove about an hour and a half from Michigan to Ohio and picked up a 03 GT CONV premium. It had only 12000 miles, this baby was beautiful, and it was certified. I walked in with cash in my hand, added the extended warranty, and gap insurance and walked out paying 18000.
That's the number of days left before I am able to head to Wyoming to pick up my '95GT. First thing I'll do is "read the Owner Manual" lol, after which I'm sure there will still be questions. Once I'm up there first thing will be to change all fluids for my own peace of mind. Considering going right to synthetic on the oil since there are only 14+K miles on the car. I changed over to synthetic on my 351W when it had 120K and started a seal leak. Had never leaked a drop prior to using the synthetic. I have never heard of that occuring but given the viscosity and structure of the synthetic several of us agree that it might be possible to get past an old seal using the syn. I switched back to 5w-30 and the leak slowed to almost no leak at all. Remember, it never leaked at all previously.
I'm interested in hearing any other's thoughts on this occurance.
That's common for a high mileage engine - especially older ones that had more tolerance. If the new 95 only has 14K miles it should be ok with synthetic.
The car is totally original and showroom condition. Cuz has kept it started and a little drive now and then. Never have been sure why he buys cars and then just stores them. I know the car has been ran and driven enough to keep the seals in shape so I should be fine with synthetic. Only hesitation is that if a seal leaks, it will always leak. At least that has been my experience.
Thanks for the reply and input.
I'm taking some extra cash along for tire replacement. I have an eery feeling I'll be buying a set of tires before I get home. They are like new, but old. I stored a '72 SS Chevelle one time for a couple of years and when I went back to drive it to my new location, I ended up replacing all 4 tires due to broken steel belts. I should have had it on stands. Miserable lesson learned.
I have about 70,000 miles on my GT and am curious about when the shocks/struts should be replaced? I would like to replace with better than OEM if available. Any suggested brands and ballpark figure on cost? Thanks ...
Tried this post on the transmission forum got no response. Just picked up this '02 GT convert. Hate the shifter, feels like a truck. Thinking about a pro-5.0 or a tri-ax. Advice and opinions appreciated.
Trying to think of a Christmas present for a really good friend who LOVES Mustangs. Has an '02 Saleen.
Any kinda fun Mods? Or something that any Mustang boy would love? Did the Mustang Seatbelt-Belt Buckle last year which he loved ... but I'm drawing a blank for this year
I just had a new clutch put in my 2000 GT. The off light for the traction control button dosen't come on when i push it. Is it not shutting off or does it have a fuse, what could it be?
I replaced mine at about 60k and 60 - 70k seems to be about the right time. You will notice a huge difference when you replace them. There are also tons of options out there depending on what you are looking for.
I am looking at selling our 97 mustang and when I enter through the options on both of the above web sites the private party prices are very different, over a $1500 difference. Has anyone encountered this when doing research?
That car as all of the disadvantages of a rear drive car with none of the fun as its SLOW, Unreliable, junk.
If you son is a new driver, you can get something much better that isn't liable to fish tail him in to the wall the first time he over conpensates on a slippery road.
$2000 is REALLY cheap even for a 100,000 mile V-6 car. Makes we wonder a bit on the condition it is in. Naturally, everyone has their own price point and if he is young, may not have much of a budget.
It also depends on the intended purpose. If he is looking to biuld a tack car or a drag car in the future, then high-milage sixers are a GREAT platform in part because they can be had for cheap.
Even if he did not want to get crazy with a build-up, finding used, solid GT motors for $600 - $1000 is pretty easy and if you guys are handy, the swap is not that hard. One of the best things about owning a Mustang is that it is a Mustang and finding parts and upgrades is a lot cheaper then on any other platform.
If you are looking for just a first car for your son, you live in MN, and he is not that handy, then this might not be the right car. Only you will know that.
BTW, don't let anyone push you around about buying a V-6 Mustang. 2/3 rds or more of all Mustangs sold are V-6's and if you ask me, a real car should be driven by the rear wheels anyway. The ford 3.8/3.9L motors have good reliability and there is a lot you can do with them.
Look at this way....if the motor blows, for under $2,000 you could find a nice 260 hp V-8 and find someone to do the swap for you for that price.
What did you try? The stock shifters are terrible but the good news is that the Tri-Ax (and others) are amazing. The difference is night and day. Go for it!
Its a 97 Mustang GT convertible with 106,000 miles. It has leather seats, CD Changer (not factory) with Sirius SAT, I rate the car as Very Good and the top is in great condition. Seats do show some wear. Mechanicals are great and the body looks excellent.
Clean GT verts will always get money! I would think you could sell that car for $6000 - $6500....maybe even more. If someone offered you $8k for it, I would think that was pretty much a top price. The 1996 - 1998 models are somewhat less desirable then the 99+ and the the Fox Body's since they suffered from a bad head design. This does not result in mechanical problems per se, but makes them a bit underpowered.
However, finding a clean Fox Body GT Vert is becomming hard to find. As a result, I have seen the prices push up on them in the last year or so....not crazy money, but I have seen people asking $8 - $10k for them. This is good news for guys like you, because it will help the value of your car. The fact that you could get $6k for a 10 year old car that sold for $18k new (I think) with 100k miles is pretty dam good.
Unless you have to get rid of it, or are just tired and done with the car, you could probably keep it and either not loose much on it or even make a few bucks in the next few years.
A few things that will help the value other then the obvious are if the car is 100% original. Modifications do nothing for the value. Minor things are fine, but anything that has altered the exterior....make it look personalized generally detract from the price. Also, depending on where you live, the winter is not a good time to sell a vert. The seats on these cars are a problem. They all look worn after a while. They can be re-surfaced for under a grand and it would do well to help sell, but probably not a good investment unles syou were planning on keeping for a while.
If you are ready to sell, there are a lot of great web forums out there with people looking for Mustangs such as www.modulardepot.com; www.stangnet.com; and www.americanmuscle.com. While you might move the car there, it is hard to get top $ on these sites because people there know too much.
Sometimes just throwing a 4-Sale on it and driving the kids (if you have them) to the local Ice Cream shop makes a potential buyer salivate. They see themselves in a situation like this and want to have it. There are a lot of folks out there who have always wanted a Mustang Vert and many of these folks think nothing of $6 - $7k.
I have a 96 Mustang 3.8L. My check engine light came on with the codes P0156, P0401, and P0174. We replaced the 02 sensor in bank 2 and nothing has changed. If any one has any solutions please let me know.
On a car of that age, it is really hard to say w/o seeing it.
Pluses: Vert
Minus: 1983 and a V-6
If the paint still "pops" and the interior is clean, you might get $2000. Otherwise, less. Maybe $2500 tops, but I would not be surprised if it got $1500.
As a comparison....a super-clean 91 GT Vert with lower miles might get $8k.
With the CD player no longer working in my V6 1998 Mustang I am considering replacing the radio/cassette player with a more modern unit that has a CD changer/player built-in, along with an input for an iPod. Has anyone done this: suggestions? Is the Mustang radio chassis a standard size - any compability issues? Are there adapters for the wiring? Thanks in advance!
I was thinking about adding some performance to the engine, does anyone know where I should begin? it has 120,000 miles but pushin really strong! Please give me any advice on what I can do to make this car better.
I am the third owner of a 1996 Ford Mustang GT. The original factory red paint is dull and faded. I have looked into getting it repainted and have been told by the detailer that they have never seen this happen before. Does anyone know if there was any sort of recall or have any advice?
Red paint, especially if it's not clearcoated, will oxidize and fade over time. Sounds like the previous owners did not keep the paint protected. If you don't mind putting some elbow grease into it you can probably fix it yourself. Pick a small area to experiment on:
use a wax or grease remover or wash with Dawn or other dishwashing (not dishwash-er) liquid to remove wax or grease
use a clay bar with quick detail spray or water mixed with a little liquid soap to remove surface contaminants.
use a liquid polish to bring back the shine
top it off with a wax or polymer topcoat
If that doesn't work then it needs to be repainted, but chances are that will make it look like new. Now just finish the rest of the car.
Are you using OE ones? If so, they should not ever snap...blower or not. I think you have another problem. How much boost are you running? If you are running over 10 lbs you might want to get an 8-rib set-up and forgo the stock pullies all together.
Phew....that could be a lot of things. You need fuel, air, and spark fopr the car to run. I would suspect a problem with air. Perhaps a small vacuum leak that is impacted more by hot weather. I would check all of your hoses for cracks. Another issue is the IAC (Idle Air Controller). I don't know the 5.0's that well, but they are a problem sometimes on the 99+ cars. Find it, pull it, and clean it and see if that helps.
I own a 95, V 6, Auto Mustang. Replaced the engine, due to bad factory head gaskets, a common problem with their engine. Fell Pro gaskets cured the problem for me. Other than that, I have been very happy with the car. Cheers for rear wheel drive vehicles!
Can anyone make suggestions on ways to improve fuel economy on these V6 engines? I'm not concerned with power performance, just economy. Mine is in need of a checkup, running rough, but don't want to do that until investigating fuel improvement possibilities. I get approx. 20-22 mpg at present time.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
I have a 1968 convertible mustang. Built in Feb 1968. It was greenish. The body is redone with new metal, ready for paint. It had a 289, thats long gone and I don't have an engine for it any longer. I have all the chrome for it, with extra pieces, 8 hub caps all in excellent condition. I have so many extra parts I don't know where they go. The car has an automatic and I have a manual tranny on the side. I have new orig white inter and center consol. The top needs new material. I live in Denver and this is in Minnesota at my Dads farm. I have a guy who want to buy the car and all the parts. How much do I sell this car for? What do you all think?
Besides changing your driving style, there is really not much you can do to fix this issue. Your only option is to make sure the car has a solid tune-up, or to lean-out the air/fuel ratio a tad. Synthetic fluids might help too. However, you may end up investing more money then what you will end up saving. I would only expect a 1 mpg improvement anyway....2 mpg tops.
Hi, everyone. I have a 2004 GT convertible, with the 3 tri-colored running mustangs decal on the side doors. I found 2 weeks ago that a very small portion of one decal has lifted. Does anyone have a suggestion(s) that I can do to fix this? Thanks.
PS: I Love this car! Wouldn't trade it for anything. Oh, and another question: has anyone had luck with a product that takes off the black from the convertible top? :shades:
wats up im a new mustang owner an i love it words cant explane how much i love this car i was a chevy man but now its ford . Im from toledo ohio an been thinking bout startnig a mustang car clue or a ford car club. reply let me know wat u think im out
This is pretty dumb question, but I'll ask either way. I just bought a 1994 GT 5.0 Convertible, what's the best fuel to use... regular or high grade? I have heard different things between the late '94's and early ones, so I am just trying to get a better idea.
Hello! How to remove 2001 Mustang Coupe rear upper sail panel? Need instructions for removal of 2001 Mustang Coupe rear upper sail panel seen here: link title
I ended up with the hatch and 2 pair of windows to what I think is an 81 or so hatchback. They can be had cheap. I'm in Marion Indiana. garyr46953@att.net
for the top best cleaner I've found is Raggtopp cleaner (they have it for vinyl and cloth) you'll need to do it in the shade (garage best) if really dirty you'll need to clean it a couple times and they have a good protectent. You'll be amazed at the scum that comes out of the pores
I bought a 96 Mustang for my 16 year old son to drive. I liked it so much that I am driving it alot. On the highway it seems like some fumes are getting into the car was there ever a problem with this vintage mustang? Also my odometer quit working so does anyone have any idea's on that?
I cool weather (AZ) it's really hard to shift out of P first thing in the AM. Pressing on brake really hard or moving the steering well a lot will finally release the shifter. When car is warmed up it's OK. Something out of alignment or needs grease in the interconnecting device? Thoughts?
Comments
I also don't think it's asking too much for people to RTM before asking a question.
I'm interested in hearing any other's thoughts on this occurance.
Thanks for the reply and input.
I'm taking some extra cash along for tire replacement. I have an eery feeling I'll be buying a set of tires before I get home. They are like new, but old. I stored a '72 SS Chevelle one time for a couple of years and when I went back to drive it to my new location, I ended up replacing all 4 tires due to broken steel belts. I should have had it on stands. Miserable lesson learned.
Any kinda fun Mods? Or something that any Mustang boy would love? Did the Mustang Seatbelt-Belt Buckle last year which he loved ... but I'm drawing a blank for this year
It is said to have 6 cyl; auto trans; 100,000 miles. 3 prior owners. Rear ended and repaired at some time in the past.
I know that it is bad on roads in winter here in MN.
Other comments and thoughts and questions he should ask?
thanks.
If you son is a new driver, you can get something much better that isn't liable to fish tail him in to the wall the first time he over conpensates on a slippery road.
Mark
Tell me more about the car.
It also depends on the intended purpose. If he is looking to biuld a tack car or a drag car in the future, then high-milage sixers are a GREAT platform in part because they can be had for cheap.
Even if he did not want to get crazy with a build-up, finding used, solid GT motors for $600 - $1000 is pretty easy and if you guys are handy, the swap is not that hard. One of the best things about owning a Mustang is that it is a Mustang and finding parts and upgrades is a lot cheaper then on any other platform.
If you are looking for just a first car for your son, you live in MN, and he is not that handy, then this might not be the right car. Only you will know that.
BTW, don't let anyone push you around about buying a V-6 Mustang. 2/3 rds or more of all Mustangs sold are V-6's and if you ask me, a real car should be driven by the rear wheels anyway. The ford 3.8/3.9L motors have good reliability and there is a lot you can do with them.
Look at this way....if the motor blows, for under $2,000 you could find a nice 260 hp V-8 and find someone to do the swap for you for that price.
However, finding a clean Fox Body GT Vert is becomming hard to find. As a result, I have seen the prices push up on them in the last year or so....not crazy money, but I have seen people asking $8 - $10k for them. This is good news for guys like you, because it will help the value of your car. The fact that you could get $6k for a 10 year old car that sold for $18k new (I think) with 100k miles is pretty dam good.
Unless you have to get rid of it, or are just tired and done with the car, you could probably keep it and either not loose much on it or even make a few bucks in the next few years.
A few things that will help the value other then the obvious are if the car is 100% original. Modifications do nothing for the value. Minor things are fine, but anything that has altered the exterior....make it look personalized generally detract from the price. Also, depending on where you live, the winter is not a good time to sell a vert. The seats on these cars are a problem. They all look worn after a while. They can be re-surfaced for under a grand and it would do well to help sell, but probably not a good investment unles syou were planning on keeping for a while.
If you are ready to sell, there are a lot of great web forums out there with people looking for Mustangs such as www.modulardepot.com; www.stangnet.com; and www.americanmuscle.com. While you might move the car there, it is hard to get top $ on these sites because people there know too much.
Sometimes just throwing a 4-Sale on it and driving the kids (if you have them) to the local Ice Cream shop makes a potential buyer salivate. They see themselves in a situation like this and want to have it. There are a lot of folks out there who have always wanted a Mustang Vert and many of these folks think nothing of $6 - $7k.
What kind of price were you hoping for?
it is a convertable
the interior is in OK condition (seats torn)
the body is in good shape, a few dints and dings here and there and a little bit of chipped paint
there is only 3 miles on the engine
i am curious as to how much i can get out of my car if i were to put 1000 miles on it
everything works fine and it runs like a champ
Mark.
Pluses: Vert
Minus: 1983 and a V-6
If the paint still "pops" and the interior is clean, you might get $2000. Otherwise, less. Maybe $2500 tops, but I would not be surprised if it got $1500.
As a comparison....a super-clean 91 GT Vert with lower miles might get $8k.
Anyone else have any thoughts?
I found this little gem while looking for videos on classic Mustangs.
Thanks
use a wax or grease remover or wash with Dawn or other dishwashing (not dishwash-er) liquid to remove wax or grease
use a clay bar with quick detail spray or water mixed with a little liquid soap to remove surface contaminants.
use a liquid polish to bring back the shine
top it off with a wax or polymer topcoat
If that doesn't work then it needs to be repainted, but chances are that will make it look like new. Now just finish the rest of the car.
Can anyone make suggestions on ways to improve fuel economy on these V6 engines? I'm not concerned with power performance, just economy. Mine is in need of a checkup, running rough, but don't want to do that until investigating fuel improvement possibilities. I get approx. 20-22 mpg at present time.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
PS: I Love this car! Wouldn't trade it for anything. Oh, and another question: has anyone had luck with a product that takes off the black from the convertible top? :shades:
If "pinging" is: use Mid grade.
If "pinging" is: use Top grade.
Avoid Pinging.
How to remove 2001 Mustang Coupe rear upper sail panel?
Need instructions for removal of 2001 Mustang Coupe rear upper sail panel seen here:
link title
Thanks!
GaryR3
What all is included in a tune up (just plugs and wires)? What are the specs for the gap in the plugs?
Also, I have a K&N air filter...can I clean and reuse it or should it be replaced as well?
Thanks so much for the info...I am truly a "dumb blonde."
could it be pvc or does it have a crank case filter clog