I just bought a brand new 2004 MDX a month ago and has about 1000 miles on it. I have the same problem: the engine light comes on, and then VTM-4 light comes on. I called the dealer and asked about the problem. The service man's answer was "probably the gas cap was not closed tightly and caused the engine light to come on". He suggested I should close the gas tank cap properly and drive around for awhile. The light should go off according to him. I have been driving it for a few times and the light still comes on. I do not think it is any rat problem. I will drive it for few more days and thinking about taking it in for a check up if light still remains on. Who knows what is lurking under the hood other than a rat.
The bad news is that there is a problem. The good news is that it's easily fixable and supposedly there's no long-term damage.
Check engine + VTM-4 light, followed by recurring check engine lights (sometimes alone, or in conjunction with the VTM-4 light) usually indicates a faulty EGR valve (involved with emissions). Insist to your dealership that you're bringing it in. They will check the computer diagnostic codes and if it's the EGR valve, they'll know right away. Replacement is relatively simple and is covered under warranty.
I've read some reports that your gas mileage might dip with the faulty valve.
Unfortunately this may be the most common issue on MDX's. We just had our valve replaced last week!
I had the same Check engine + VTM-4 light problem. Norwalk CT Dealer(Devan Acura) said that there is recall on 2004 models for this as well as for poor milage. The "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" light was gone from my MDX after they applied the 2 "updates" from Acura.
Can anybody give me more information about software update recall? Is it even a recall and how can I get that soft. update? Thanks. Unfortunatelly I am only getting 11-12mpg (04 Navi. MDX) but I only drove in NYC which is stop and go all the time every minute. It drives me crazy... Will try it out on the lonk highway trip this weekend.
As far as I know, the MDX does not have a black box, the black box are mostly in GM and Fords for now. Below is a nightmare of a story about black boxes in vehicles:
I went to test drive an Acura MDX this weekend. Armed with the knowledge from these boards I knew what to look for. So during my 30+ minute test drive I did not notice the 2000rpm noise. So I asked the sales guy about it. He acknowledged the issue but said it is only a car by car basis and that it does not happen on any of their demo vehicles.
So I asked what they do if it does happen on a vehicle and he mentioned that the documented fix is to remove or replace one of the brackets (he couldn't remember exactly).
I love the dealers/mechanics who say..."I cannot remember exactly"...why are they so afraid of being honest with people. They probably have dealt with the exact same issure many times and had the exact same conversation. I wish there could be some accountability in the car and service industry, since our only option is to shop elsewhere...where this sort of thing is the norm not the exception.
but Badulla, since your dealer know about the humming problem and know how to somewhat fix it temporarily, you think they made the "fix" to the demos so people who test drive the cars don't hear the problem?
My MDX w/o nav (15,000 miles)would not start again for the fourth time in the last 10 months. It's like it's flooded. I do not give it gas when I start it. After about a minute wait, it starts; again, without giving it any gas. I'm bringing it to John Eagle Acura Service Dept. (Houston) in 2 days and we'll see what they say is the problem. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, any information will be helpful. I'll post another message in a few days with what I'm told. Regards to all.
Recap of yesterday: My wife and son do some errands and go into their last stop at the shoe store. 10 minutes later they go to start the car and all it does is turn. Mind you, there are NO other keys attached to the MDX key, and the little Acura thingy attached to the key broke off so there should be no inference there.
Long story short, they were stranded and had to get the car jump started and possible towed. Everything lit up inside including the lights and navigation screen, and there was no reason why in the 10 minutes they were in the store, the car would magically die.
So we took it in to the dealer today, but they told us they can't replicate the problem. This is about the 3rd time it wouldn't start, but usually you just give it 10 minutes it will start again. Not this time, as my wife and son were stranded for an hour in the parking lot in their 1 year-old $43,000 sport utility vehicle
I've heard it might be an immobalizer problem...next time it happens I'm going to check that green flashing key light in the dash. If it's flashing while I'm trying to start the car, that means their is something wrong with the immobalizer starter...which I'm thinking since the battery obviously shouldn't be faulty as it's sending power to everything else in the car.
Your problem could be as simple as a bad battery. Just on the edge of going bad. Stalling, long cranking times, having to wait 15 minutes to start, etc. are symptoms of that problem. Also other problems but start with the simple solutions if nothing else seems wrong with the car.
Got my 04 MDX about 2 weeks ago. I am getting about 20.5 mpg (mostly highway) on average so far. I am happy with this average as my 96 TL was giving only about 2 miles more.
I have no sloshing issue, however the 2K RPM humming sound is there. However, I have learnt to ignore it, and doesn't bother me too much.
Other than that really loving the drive! Would have loved Acura to place some light over the coin tray! My old TL 3.2 used to have it, and many more features than the new MDX ;-) Thanks.
I know this is Acura MDX board. We are planning to get one in 2 months, that why I spend all my time here. Regarding your post - We have the same problem with 00' Nissan Maxima. Brend new car can't start, and when we took car to dealer - they can't reproduce the problem. Finally, after 3-d time visiting to the same dealer in 1 month they give as new keys - problem solve. Never had start engine problem again.
Just took a 4000 mile nearly all highway trip with my MDX and averaged about 22.5mpg at an average speed of 70-75mph. Not bad. Noticed a few odd things though. On several occasions the trip computer would show for example that since the last fillup I had travelled 230miles with 320miles left till empty. This cant be possible because that would imply 550miles/19.1 gallons(if it were indeed completely filled) which equates to 28.8mpg. No where on the trip had the average mileage been that high. What gives? Also, on several fillups, I was able to squeeze more than the advertised 19.1 gallons into the tank, even though the low fuel warning light had just come on. Anyone else had these issues?
I have been driving the MDX 2004 for the past 3 weeks. So far other than the humming noise at the 2000 RPM (whatever speed), it has been great. Mileage is slowly inching up. First gas tank fill up gave 17.3 and the next one 18.4. Hopefully it will reach upwards of 20. Mix of highway and city driving. I have not spoken to the dealer yet about the humming. However the ride is a dream.
Like icec97, in good conditions and highway driving I can get excellent mileage -- averaging 20 - 22 is easy with a combo of around town and highway. On a 800 mile round trip by highway I can get close to 500 miles from a tank. Round town alone though, mileage is nothing like advertised -- I sympathize with those in places like NYC with today's gas prices! The humming, now I know it's there, (otherwise I'd probably be able to ignore it) is still frustrating but my dealer (in Minneapolis) admits they're now "working on it" -- a step up from last time I asked when they were denying it was a problem.
I have posted this in the past....I recommend using K&N air filter (probably cheaper than Acura filter). I also use Mobil 1 oil (synthetic)...18mpg city and on long trips avg 70mph I am getting 25mpg (windows up and sunroof closed). Also don't forget to check your tire pressure monthly and after any extreme temperature changes (especially when driving from north to south and vice versa).
Use Mobil-1 and K&N too (no, it is not less initial cost than the standard one for an MDX). Local mpg using actual numbers, not the inaccurate optimistic on-board trip computer, gives 14-16 in town and 20-22 on trips. Overall average for over two years is about 17 (16.97). Freeway speeds are much higher than 70 around here (and on trips) and local traffic is very heavy, which could account for much of the difference between your mpg and mine.
I did not notice any increase in mpg after switching Mobil-1 nor did a new air filter make any difference either. My other cars also showed no mpg difference after switching (including changing to K&N) either. I've also tried to see if there is a difference running with A/C off. Maybe there is a little, but only a few tenths mpg.
First problem, my trip computer says I'm averaging 15.9 mpg, I do mostly city driving, does this sound about right? Second problem is door dings. I have had my blue 04 for 6 mos and already have accumulated 5 different dents from people opening their car door into my vehicle. I park in a hospital parking lot. Body shop guy says "get the body side molding, It'll pay for itself by preventing repairs." Any input on the molding and dent prevention?
My trip computer always shows better mpg than the car actually gets, on average. Usually the trip computer is off by about 5%, with actual mpg being about half to one mpg less than what shows on the screen. For mostly city driving, almost 16 is actually good. My 02 averages 14 to 16 in local driving.
Body side molding sounds good, but with the great range in vehicle door heights the molding will only protect against a few vehicles that happen to have doors that will hit the molding instead of the painted door. Better than nothing, but don't expect miracles.
If the paint is okay, a paintless dent repair can be very effective and not costly. During the last two years I have used paintless dent repair in five places. One was on the door of our no body side molding MDX and the other four were on another car with body side molding. In all five cases I can't find where the dents were. Each dent took only a few minutes to repair and the cost was very reasonable.
At 62,000 miles I started having a transmission "torque converter" problem, diagnosed by Acura. While driving my '01 MDX, a "washboard" sound was generated by the tranny. Repair estimate $2,000, out of warranty. I had recently changed the transmission fluid to Dextron, then realized it is not reccomended for long term use by Acura. Consulted two tranny experts. Changed fluid back to Honda ATF. All noise subsided. Then at 80,000 miles I began having trouble again - "washboard sound" just like before. Then "reverse" failed.
Acura offered to pay 50% of $5,510 replacement cost of a "re-manufactured" Acura tranny. (Normal tranny costs for many vehicles is around $2000.) They handled the whole transaction so poorly. It took almost four weeks from diagnosis to repair. (Acura is having more problems with MDX trannys than they are admitting.) I really hesitated leasing a "first year" model MDX. At the time I needed repair, my dealer had no loaner vehicles, due to a recall on TL's. I paid $2,755 plus $420 rental car costs for this repair. I am a fifteen year customer of Acura and this dealer and they chose to handle this situation VERY POORLY!!!! Beware of this problem transmission. If you haven't noticed, Acura made changes in the 2002 and 2003 model transmissions. I have just become a Lexus SUV owner instead. I hope all of you MDX owners/lessees have better luck than I did.
The "thud" noise from the suspension is still there in the most recent model and I can reproduce it consistently. I'll have to ask the local dealer for a fix for this.
The wireless headsets are very easily broken by "normal" kids. The dealer was not helpful here.
It would be nice to be able to select the backup camera manually.
The GPS is better then most, but updates are a major hassle. I can't wait for some smart person to provide real-time traffic data like they have in Japan. Any idea on how to take advantage of the flash slot on the GPS DVD player?
My friend says there is a hack to get TV onto the front display. Let me know if you find that solution as well.
Overall, the MDX has been far more reliable than my friends competing Euro solutions. That's a big high five.
I don't find every 30K frequent, though I don't understand why I have to do the same thing now as I used to do 35 years ago on my Chevy positraction rear ends (essentially refresh the additives to keep the clutches working right).
Have not had any problem finding the correct engine oil for my MDX either.
However, the engine recall and now a transmission recall makes me question reliability. I had planned on keeping our MDX a log time, but now will have to seriously consider replacing it at the end of the warranty.
The Navigation update is a snap. Eject the old DVD and insert the new one, start the car and wait a couple of minutes and it is ready to go. I think what you really mean it that even the update is way out of date. I agree there should be an auto update service that works in the background much like virus updates can on computers. Maybe that will become the norm someday.
... Acura made changes in the 2002 and 2003 model transmissions ...
To make matters worse, the changes (a redesigned transmission) were not made until the 2003 model year. Both the 2001 and 2002 models have the same transmission that is subject to the recall.
I've had my 04 MDX for less than a week now and I noticed this loud rattle in the rear cargo area where the subwoofer is when I play some tunes with bass. Anybody have the same issue ?
I have had my 2002 for about 9 months and 9000 miles. I have been pleased with everything (no gas tank slosh noise, no exhaust hum, 18 MPG city and 24-25 MPG highway) except the clicking/clanking brake noise often reported here. It wasn't present until about 3000 miles ago, then I first starting hearing it. At that time also was the 30K service, and the pads were listed as having 70% remaining. Now, the dealer of course says this noise is normal due to the design, etc., but it is getting more and more louder. Does anyone know if new pads will fix the problem? I don't want to spend the money right now for pads if it won't do any good as far as the noise issue, as they should have about 50% thickness remaining. Also wondering if there is an aftermarket pad that has a better fit and less free play in the caliper. Also, I recently tried some 89 octane gas instead of 93 and it runs great with no knock and no mileage decrease. Is this OK in the long run?
There is a service bulletin that addresses the rear brake noise. Essentially, the fix is adding shims to the rear brake pads.
Using lower octane fuel will not hurt the engine as long as the engine is not knocking. Full throttle performance may be a little less and as the engine accumulates miles economy may drop a bit too. Without a stop watch you probably will not notice the performance difference. You probably will not notice any economy difference between tanks either, but might if you tracked several thousand miles before and after the switch to lower octane. The dollar savings isn't much when one uses mid grade. Based on your mpg in post 446 (much better than my 02 gets BTW) and the miles you indicate you drive (about 12k per year) you will save about $65 per year.
My MDX just did back to back trips. Same destination both times. The only significant difference was the second trip has an additional 330 pounds in the car. That 7% increase in vehicle weight apparently cost about 5% in mpg. Got about 21.5 the first trip and 20.4 the second trip. All freeway driving (330 miles each way) except for about three miles on each end. It was interesting seeing the trip computer say zero miles range left for the last 20 miles. The low fuel light came on about 15 miles after the trip computer showed zero miles and a few miles before reaching destination. Each time the car took a little over 16 gallons (a little less than 3 gallons left in the tank). As usual, the trip computer showed about one mpg better than the car actually got for the tank.
Used Cruise Control and A/C all the way. The hills required lots of downshifting to fourth gear to maintain speed, with one long grade requiring third gear (4500 rpm) for several miles.
Recently, someone did some dyno testing with the 3 type of gas in the MDX posted in another forum. His result were that with the 89 octane, the timing was held back in the EMU a little bit and the horsepower decrease by a couple of HP. With the 87 octane, the timing was choke off a lot by the EMU and the horsepower at peak RPM tops out at around 220.
What are owners experiences with using a rear-facing infant car seat in the center position of the middle row of the MDX? While car-shopping this past weekend I met a couple as they were exiting their week old '04 MDX (they'd just traded in their '03 to get the side curtain airbags) with their newborn. They raved about the car, but said the only disappointment they had was that they had been unable to install their car seat base in the center (preferred for safety) position and were using it in the position behind the front passenger seat. I believe the center position has the 3-point belt that comes out of the ceiling. They'd had this same problem with their 2003 model. Just wanted to know if their experience was typical. Car seat was a Graco "Snug-Ride" model. I'm leaning heavily toward an MDX, but the "car seat in the middle" issue is pretty important to us (we're expecting a little one next month). I appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
On various message boards I've read posts of owners who have installed a number of infant car seats into the center of the second row, with no issue. They include Graco Snugride owners.
You do have to use the belt that comes from the ceiling. I was worried about it long ago, but it turns out the belt is a thin item in your rear view mirror and you really don't notice it when you look back.
Some folks have complained that they can't use the LATCH in the center of the second row (like many vehicles, no lower anchors for LATCH attachment in the middle). However, a belted installation works fine. In fact, Consumer Reports' testing found a number of seats where a correct belted installation was actually safer than a correct LATCH installation! The key is to install it correctly, belts have a higher probability of error.
http://www.carseatdata.org/ has a database where you can look up people's experiences with installing car seats in various vehicles.
There could be one trick to getting a really great, tight install in the center position. Some people have found that the taut center belt tends to pull up on one side of the seat. Some owners have used a locking clip to keep the two sections of belt coming away from the seat together, so the "clampdown" works better.
I recently had my MDX serviced for the transmission recall for my '02 vehicle. They installed a kit which would provide the needed fluid to the trans. I drove my car to Las Vegas and experienced less horsepower especially when climbing up hills. At times I had to floor it. A week before I drop it and the vehicle felt fine. It just happened after I had the trans. serviced for the recall. I called the dealership's service dept. and they said that the service to the transmission shouldn't effect the horsepower.
I am wondering if anyone else is experiencing this same problem or is all in my head?!
The recall service to the transmission should not have any effect on performance. Mine won't be done for another week or two.
Just did two round trips to LAS from SoCal. Lots of fourth gear on 15 going up the hills with third gear needed to get up the hill and stay with traffic on 15 South from State Line (4500 rpm).
I have taken my car to Vegas before and it was fine. It just felt sluggish going up hill and the exceleration pedal feels funny. I drove into work today with no problem but I only would hit 65 mph and there are no hills going into work.
A week ago I drove up to Salvang and the car was fine up until I had the service done to correct the trans. (Recall). I use 91 octane from Union 76 and that day to Salvang it was between 100 to 109 degrees.
What is the transmission recall for the 2001-2002 models? I haven't received any notice for my 2002 - was it only up to a certain build date?
Edit - I just checked the Owner Link website and read about the recall - I should have looked there first. I guess I'll be notified sometime this summer. Now, if they could just find a permanent fix for the brake noise - I hear it at all four wheels, although not every time.
We're moving from FL to New Hampshire, right next to the Vermont border. The closest dealerships are all about 80 miles away and there are three of them. Has anyone had any experience with any of them, positive or negative? That would help us decide which one to buy from. Sunnyside Acura in Nashua, NH Lewis Acura in Burlington, VT North Hampton Acura in North Hampton, NH
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN: MFG Bulletin Number: 032604
MFG Bulletin Date: 20040326
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:FOUNDATION COMPONENTS:DISC:CALIPER
Details: REAR BRAKE SHIM KITS FOR THE REAR BRAKE CALIPERS WHICH MAY CLUNK THE FIRST TIME THE BRAKES ARE APPLIED AFTER CHANGING DIRECTION FROM FORWARD TO REVERSE OR VICE-VERSA. *TT
Thank you for the info and link. This noon I went to my Acura dealer, they had a tech listen to the brake clunk as I drove. Of course he has heard it often times before, and says there is no real fix for it, etc., and the shimming doesn't really work in most cases. Anyway, I'm having it done tomorrow under warranty, along with the transmission recall. I'm hoping for the best on the brakes, but still am angered that Acura thinks this is a normal sound and OK for a $40K+ vehicle. Mine sound so bad it sounds like I drove over empty aluminum cans when I apply the brakes. If they can't fix it, I'm going to have my son, who is an auto mechanic, see if there's some way to add some rubber cushioning between the parts that are having the metal to metal contact. I'm close to retirement and was hoping to keep this car for many, many years, but I'm beginning to think I've bought my first and last Acura.
I'm not thrilled about the thought of keeping my MDX long term either. I normally keep cars a long time, but with an engine recall (sorry, product update), a transmission recall, clunking brakes, some rattles, and a five consecutive model years of Honda/Acura transmission problems I am thinking about getting rid of the MDX when the warranty expires.
According to the service manager at the dealer doing my warranty service the brake fix reduces the noise in most of the vehicles and has eliminated it in a few. They have been waiting a couple of weeks for more shim kits. When they come in my MDX will get the shims and the transmission recall.
There are four MDXs in my family, with mine the low miles one. So far there have been no major problems on the others.
I wish Honda/Acura would extend the transmission warranty for MDXs like they have on the majority of their vehicles with questionable transmission reliability. Based on the experiences of my neighbor and friend, who are on transmission number four and transmission number three respectively, I don't have a lot of confidence that the recall fix will prevent transmission problems in my MDX.
Well, I am much happier now that the rear brake shim kit has been installed. The clunk noise is completely gone; I only hope that it will be a permanent fix. Also had the transmission inspected and recall fix installed. The service advisior told me they have done 15 MDX's so far and none were damaged and needed to be replaced.
Had the tranny recall done today. Installed the extra oil line. Car seems to run the same.
Still no shim kits for the rear brakes. Dealer has ten sets ordered and has been waiting several weeks.
Dealer would not address the two rattles, so these are still there. Dealer claims he could not hear them. Maybe they had the radio too loud. Also said there is no adjustment for the glove box latch to tighten the door, implying they can't fix that rattle.
Same TSX loaner as when I had the engine modification done several months ago. At least the outside and front seats were clean. The rear seat had what appeared to be the sticky remains of a soda spill. The engine needs service light was on too.
Comments
Check engine + VTM-4 light, followed by recurring check engine lights (sometimes alone, or in conjunction with the VTM-4 light) usually indicates a faulty EGR valve (involved with emissions). Insist to your dealership that you're bringing it in. They will check the computer diagnostic codes and if it's the EGR valve, they'll know right away. Replacement is relatively simple and is covered under warranty.
I've read some reports that your gas mileage might dip with the faulty valve.
Unfortunately this may be the most common issue on MDX's. We just had our valve replaced last week!
Norwalk CT Dealer(Devan Acura) said that there is recall on 2004 models for this as well as for poor milage. The "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" light was gone from my MDX after they applied the 2 "updates" from Acura.
Thanks.
Can anybody give me more information about software update recall? Is it even a recall and how can I get that soft. update? Thanks.
Unfortunatelly I am only getting 11-12mpg (04 Navi. MDX) but I only drove in NYC which is stop and go all the time every minute. It drives me crazy... Will try it out on the lonk highway trip this weekend.
As far as I know, the MDX does not have a black box, the black box are mostly in GM and Fords for now. Below is a nightmare of a story about black boxes in vehicles:
http://www.thebostonchannel.com/automotive/2029412/detail.html
So I asked what they do if it does happen on a vehicle and he mentioned that the documented fix is to remove or replace one of the brackets (he couldn't remember exactly).
Just an FYI for people worried about the noise.
Long story short, they were stranded and had to get the car jump started and possible towed. Everything lit up inside including the lights and navigation screen, and there was no reason why in the 10 minutes they were in the store, the car would magically die.
So we took it in to the dealer today, but they told us they can't replicate the problem. This is about the 3rd time it wouldn't start, but usually you just give it 10 minutes it will start again. Not this time, as my wife and son were stranded for an hour in the parking lot in their 1 year-old $43,000 sport utility vehicle
I've heard it might be an immobalizer problem...next time it happens I'm going to check that green flashing key light in the dash. If it's flashing while I'm trying to start the car, that means their is something wrong with the immobalizer starter...which I'm thinking since the battery obviously shouldn't be faulty as it's sending power to everything else in the car.
Got my 04 MDX about 2 weeks ago. I am getting about 20.5 mpg (mostly highway) on average so far. I am happy with this average as my 96 TL was giving only about 2 miles more.
I have no sloshing issue, however the 2K RPM humming sound is there. However, I have learnt to ignore it, and doesn't bother me too much.
Other than that really loving the drive! Would have loved Acura to place some light over the coin tray! My old TL 3.2 used to have it, and many more features than the new MDX ;-)
Thanks.
Regarding your post - We have the same problem with 00' Nissan Maxima. Brend new car can't start, and when we took car to dealer - they can't reproduce the problem. Finally, after 3-d time visiting to the same dealer in 1 month they give as new keys - problem solve. Never had start engine problem again.
Cheers
I did not notice any increase in mpg after switching Mobil-1 nor did a new air filter make any difference either. My other cars also showed no mpg difference after switching (including changing to K&N) either. I've also tried to see if there is a difference running with A/C off. Maybe there is a little, but only a few tenths mpg.
Body side molding sounds good, but with the great range in vehicle door heights the molding will only protect against a few vehicles that happen to have doors that will hit the molding instead of the painted door. Better than nothing, but don't expect miracles.
If the paint is okay, a paintless dent repair can be very effective and not costly. During the last two years I have used paintless dent repair in five places. One was on the door of our no body side molding MDX and the other four were on another car with body side molding. In all five cases I can't find where the dents were. Each dent took only a few minutes to repair and the cost was very reasonable.
Acura offered to pay 50% of $5,510 replacement cost of a "re-manufactured" Acura tranny. (Normal tranny costs for many vehicles is around $2000.) They handled the whole transaction so poorly. It took almost four weeks from diagnosis to repair. (Acura is having more problems with MDX trannys than they are admitting.) I really hesitated leasing a "first year" model MDX. At the time I needed repair, my dealer had no loaner vehicles, due to a recall on TL's. I paid $2,755 plus $420 rental car costs for this repair. I am a fifteen year customer of Acura and this dealer and they chose to handle this situation VERY POORLY!!!! Beware of this problem transmission. If you haven't noticed, Acura made changes in the 2002 and 2003 model transmissions. I have just become a Lexus SUV owner instead. I hope all of you MDX owners/lessees have better luck than I did.
I'll have to ask the local dealer for a fix for this.
The wireless headsets are very easily broken by "normal" kids.
The dealer was not helpful here.
It would be nice to be able to select the backup camera manually.
The GPS is better then most, but updates are a major hassle. I can't wait for some smart person to provide real-time traffic data like they have in Japan. Any idea on how to take advantage of the flash slot on the GPS DVD player?
My friend says there is a hack to get TV onto the front display. Let me know if you find that solution as well.
Overall, the MDX has been far more reliable than my friends competing Euro solutions. That's a big high five.
Not a big problem as long as you know to do it.
Have not had any problem finding the correct engine oil for my MDX either.
However, the engine recall and now a transmission recall makes me question reliability. I had planned on keeping our MDX a log time, but now will have to seriously consider replacing it at the end of the warranty.
The Navigation update is a snap. Eject the old DVD and insert the new one, start the car and wait a couple of minutes and it is ready to go. I think what you really mean it that even the update is way out of date. I agree there should be an auto update service that works in the background much like virus updates can on computers. Maybe that will become the norm someday.
To make matters worse, the changes (a redesigned transmission) were not made until the 2003 model year. Both the 2001 and 2002 models have the same transmission that is subject to the recall.
I've been crying to!!
I infact was so pissed off with the Premium Bose system that I wrote to 'em. They tell me that my dealer has been informed and he'll get back to me!
Damn it!
I believe a lot of people use good acoustic mats and replace their bose speakers with Infinity.
You might wanna try it out....
Using lower octane fuel will not hurt the engine as long as the engine is not knocking. Full throttle performance may be a little less and as the engine accumulates miles economy may drop a bit too. Without a stop watch you probably will not notice the performance difference. You probably will not notice any economy difference between tanks either, but might if you tracked several thousand miles before and after the switch to lower octane. The dollar savings isn't much when one uses mid grade. Based on your mpg in post 446 (much better than my 02 gets BTW) and the miles you indicate you drive (about 12k per year) you will save about $65 per year.
My MDX just did back to back trips. Same destination both times. The only significant difference was the second trip has an additional 330 pounds in the car. That 7% increase in vehicle weight apparently cost about 5% in mpg. Got about 21.5 the first trip and 20.4 the second trip. All freeway driving (330 miles each way) except for about three miles on each end. It was interesting seeing the trip computer say zero miles range left for the last 20 miles. The low fuel light came on about 15 miles after the trip computer showed zero miles and a few miles before reaching destination. Each time the car took a little over 16 gallons (a little less than 3 gallons left in the tank). As usual, the trip computer showed about one mpg better than the car actually got for the tank.
Used Cruise Control and A/C all the way. The hills required lots of downshifting to fourth gear to maintain speed, with one long grade requiring third gear (4500 rpm) for several miles.
honda/acura had better fix its transmission glitches and the problems of former purchasers, else they'll lose a lot of customers.
You do have to use the belt that comes from the ceiling. I was worried about it long ago, but it turns out the belt is a thin item in your rear view mirror and you really don't notice it when you look back.
Some folks have complained that they can't use the LATCH in the center of the second row (like many vehicles, no lower anchors for LATCH attachment in the middle). However, a belted installation works fine. In fact, Consumer Reports' testing found a number of seats where a correct belted installation was actually safer than a correct LATCH installation! The key is to install it correctly, belts have a higher probability of error.
http://www.carseatdata.org/ has a database where you can look up people's experiences with installing car seats in various vehicles.
There could be one trick to getting a really great, tight install in the center position. Some people have found that the taut center belt tends to pull up on one side of the seat. Some owners have used a locking clip to keep the two sections of belt coming away from the seat together, so the "clampdown" works better.
I am wondering if anyone else is experiencing this same problem or is all in my head?!
Just did two round trips to LAS from SoCal. Lots of fourth gear on 15 going up the hills with third gear needed to get up the hill and stay with traffic on 15 South from State Line (4500 rpm).
Keep us posted if you can find some link between the service and your vehicle.
Edit - I just checked the Owner Link website and read about the recall - I should have looked there first. I guess I'll be notified sometime this summer. Now, if they could just find a permanent fix for the brake noise - I hear it at all four wheels, although not every time.
Sunnyside Acura in Nashua, NH
Lewis Acura in Burlington, VT
North Hampton Acura in North Hampton, NH
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN: MFG Bulletin Number: 032604
MFG Bulletin Date: 20040326
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:FOUNDATION COMPONENTS:DISC:CALIPER
Details: REAR BRAKE SHIM KITS FOR THE REAR BRAKE CALIPERS WHICH MAY CLUNK THE FIRST TIME THE BRAKES ARE APPLIED AFTER CHANGING DIRECTION FROM FORWARD TO REVERSE OR VICE-VERSA. *TT
MCS Check Date: 20040419
According to the service manager at the dealer doing my warranty service the brake fix reduces the noise in most of the vehicles and has eliminated it in a few. They have been waiting a couple of weeks for more shim kits. When they come in my MDX will get the shims and the transmission recall.
There are four MDXs in my family, with mine the low miles one. So far there have been no major problems on the others.
I wish Honda/Acura would extend the transmission warranty for MDXs like they have on the majority of their vehicles with questionable transmission reliability. Based on the experiences of my neighbor and friend, who are on transmission number four and transmission number three respectively, I don't have a lot of confidence that the recall fix will prevent transmission problems in my MDX.
Also had the transmission inspected and recall fix installed. The service advisior told me they have done 15 MDX's so far and none were damaged and needed to be replaced.
Still no shim kits for the rear brakes. Dealer has ten sets ordered and has been waiting several weeks.
Dealer would not address the two rattles, so these are still there. Dealer claims he could not hear them. Maybe they had the radio too loud. Also said there is no adjustment for the glove box latch to tighten the door, implying they can't fix that rattle.
Same TSX loaner as when I had the engine modification done several months ago. At least the outside and front seats were clean. The rear seat had what appeared to be the sticky remains of a soda spill. The engine needs service light was on too.