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Comments
On liners - Still a bit confused but guess I'm leaning toward a rubber mat. I've heard from a couple of sources that the spray in liners acutally decrease the value of the truck over the long run. I had a mat in my older F150 and it worked out great for only $60. Kept things from sliding around and protected the bottom of the bed. It was about a 1/2" thick and weighed enought that it would never blow around. Didn't have much problem with damage to the side walls, a couple of small scratches that touched up nicely. Guess I don't like commiting to something so permanent as a spray in liner. Got to admit though that some of the spray in's look great, depending on the color of the truck.
I've been looking for a tool box for my new F250 which I haven't recieved yet. I like black but the only black ones are plastic and I would like metal. While investigating the spray in liner subject, one of the dealers mentioned that she had done a tool box. She said it turned out good but was a real hassle sanding the box down. She said if she ever did it again she was going to charge more. Now I'm thinking about buying a diamond aluminum box, taking it to a sand blaster to have it "stripped" and then hauling it over and having a spray on coating put on. I know it sounds like quite a bit of work and I haven't decided to do it yet, but it may be the only way I can get a black metal tool box.
The advantage to a roof mount is the natural "Ground Plane" of the roof. If the antenna is in the center of the roof the signal radiates out more or less equally. As the antenna is moved towards the back of the roof, the signal is stronger out towards the front of the roof.
I see a lot of police cars with the 450 MHz antennas mounted on the roof and no leaks. Maybe you should go to where your locals go to have the antenna installed????
I have tried the 'thru the glass' type of antenna for both cellular and C/B. Cellular was great, C/B was very poor. The C/B through the glass had a VSR of almost 3. (S/B as close to 1 as possible.) The signal wouldnt get out much more than a quarter mile. I went to the twin trucker arrangement and was able to talk to Sydney in my driveway with a completely legal radio. (i.e. No liniar amplifier.)
I'm in a quandry as how to mount the antenna(s) on the '99 because like you, I ain't going to drill holes! Good luck!
Regarding tool boxes. I've ordered a white painted aluminum a Creative Industries Truck Trunk. They're some where in ND. I haven't gotten it yet but they said that they had done colors other than white. Send me an e-mail and I'll give you their number. (Use rich.flynn@mail.sprint.com)
Rich
Rich
Are the dealer installed liners any good (Ford)? Any other recommendations in lieu of these?
P.S. Dealer installed liners are fine, but after market stuff is just as good or better in most cases. Cheaper too. Dodge wanted 300 bones for a liner in my new Dakota and $200 more for diamond-plate rail caps. I got my Duraliner, rail caps(including tailgate cap) and window sunshields all installed for just $250 after market.
The problem E3MP6 has with his Duraliner being slick was something I noted on my son's pickup. He got a Duraliner about 8 years ago, but the Pendaliner I got this year has a non-slip finish on it. I just assumed that now they are all made with a non-slip finish, but from what E3MP6 said, I guess that's not the case.
I had a Glasstite cap on my last pickup and probably would have bought another without thinking twice about it. However, Glasstite discontinued the style I liked, and nothing else they now have appeals to me. I looked at Leer also, but couln't even get luke warm about them. Didn't really like the looks and the prices from both manufacturers are about 50 percent higher than they were 10 years ago when I bought the last one. Well, I had been looking for a few months and when I came to realize I like the great 360-degree visability one gets by not having a cap. So I decided to go for a tonneau. I looked at a few fabric ones in the parking lot at work, and they seem to look pretty shabby after a few years. Next stop in this process for me was to consider a fiberglass tonneau, and that's what I got. I rarely haul anything taller than the side rails of my pickup, so for me this is perfect. The best quality one I could find was a company I had never heard of previously, A.R.E., but it's pretty easy to get information because they are on the web.
http://www.4are.com/
Not only that, if you send them an inquiry via email, you'll get a prompt answer from a human being answering your specific question.....not a pre-formated one-response-for-all type of message most companies send out. if you click on the above web site, you'll see they have a lot more than just tonneau lids. I think their lids are the best looking ones out there, so I ordered one. The price in NJ was $650 (as compared with about $250 for a soft tonneau), but I think the amount charged depends on how far your dealer is from ARE's factory in Ohio. I had the pickup in Phoenix a few weeks ago and priced one there, but since it was more expensive, I waited 'til I got home to buy it. I had also looked at the Whitney catalog before buying the ARE, and as I remember, the Whitney prices are in the $600-to-$700 range, I doubt if the quality is as good as the ARE, and I'd have to install it myself. Good shopping.
I didn't see any comments on Brahma plastic canopies/shells/caps/toppers. I had one on the above truck. Looked like new the whole time with periodic scrub brush and cleaner to the textured surface. Very durable and could take the abuse of repeated on/off cycles. They were popular on the West Coast, at least ten years ago.
Rich
It is 64" by 24" by 17" deep. The box fits between the rails of my SD F-250 with less than an eighth of an inch to spare. Four sheet metal bolts (Ouch!) to secure it in place. The box is very well built and hangs on the rails like a typical cross bed tool box. This one has two interesting features. The height of the box above the rails is less than 2", more than likely only 1". The top is a SLIDER from side to side. I ordered the white Aluminum (powder coat) and not the diamond plate. The color of the white is almost the same as the Ford white. They're not side by side so I can't compare exactly.
The really delightful thing is that with the rear view mirror adjusted normally, I can's see the tool box.
Rich
Of course, those are just my experiences. YMMV.
http://www.4are.com/
What ever you do, DON'T get the soft tonneau cover. You will be replacing it every few years. The sun, smog and acid rain will destroy it very rapidly. The soft covers are similar to convertable tops. I had to replace the top every two years on my old Fair Lady. (Smog rot in the LA area is rather bad.) We have a out door jacuzzi and it has a soft top. Every two years it needs replacement. We've tried everything to protect the cover including nothing. Every two years! We can put all kinds of preservatives or hose it down every week. It still gets replaced every two years.
Spend the extra for the fiberglass cover. You'll only spend it once.
Rich
Carla
As an aside, your $10-12k figure sounds a little high. I know the dealers around here (Dallas, TX) do full pickup conversions for around half that.
Warranty stuff comes into play as well. I'm sure you'd get a warranty from a conversion shop, but it would probably come in the form of multiple warranties, i.e. one for each add-on piece. Getting it from your dealer puts ALL of your warranties for the truck and the conversion into one nice neat package.
( http://www.turnoverball.com/hitch/index.html )
before? I've seen it at a state fair, and it looks nice, but I've never known anyone to have one.
The cover will need to be taken off frequently.
I've heard alot on these fiberglass covers (through mopar), anyone have any thoughts on these guys?
Also, what are the pros and cons of over and under bed liners? Does one kind benefit, say, a soft/hard cover? hide the snaps on a soft cover?
thanks for any info...
Has there been a conversation on different types of toppers, which ones are good ect...??
Some! You're just going to have to scroll up and read them.
I bought a fiberglass tonneau (maker was Fibrotec out of Canada). It came in the color of my Dakota (black) so I didn't need to have it painted. It looks great, it's lockable & it's watertight. I had it installed by guys that do this for a living and it took about 20 minutes. There was no drilling involved. If you have a bedliner or plan on buying one it must be the under the rail type to have the fiberglass tonneau installed. If you already have an over the rail type bedliner it can still be done but the liner must be cut (not recommended). FYI-The tonneau cost me about $700. and would have been the same for a fullsize RAM or Ford's F150.
Warning...if you plan to frequently haul stuff that is higher than the bed walls or if you want to have something dumped into the truck from a backhoe/payloader, the fiberglass lid is probably not a good idea. Taking the lid off and putting it back on frequently will get tired real fast. Plus it is a 2 person job.
Should I get one from the chevy dealer or a 3rd party?
What is a shell for a 6 foot bed going to run me?
Will the shells on a '98 fit on a '99?
I think what you are talking about is the fiberglass tonneau the other people are talking about. Those are the ones that are flat over the bed.
The dealers who sell the fiberglass shells and tonneaus can easily match the color of your truck. They read the paint code on your truck and order it. If they are a large dealer, they may even paint it on-site.
I don't know how difficult it is to take one of those fiberglass tonneaus off the truck. From what In41time mentioned, it sounds like removing a fiberglass tonneau is tougher than removing a full size shell. I had a full size fiberglass shell for my longbed pickup and it was no problem removing it. It took about 10 minutes. It had six clamps, and I was able to lift it off with the assistance of one person. I had a friend who had a plastic one on a shortbed with only four clamps. I could remove that one in five minutes without help. When I lived in CA, the hard part was trying to find a place to sit it when it wasn't on the truck.
I saw one on a s10 the other day that was actually flush with the bed rails. It did not add a 2 inches worth of height to the bed. There was nothing overlapping the rails.
I've provided this URL before, but here it is again.
http://www.4are.com/
The ARE is the one I bought and I've had a lot of
compliments on it, even from people who don't drive a pickup. Removing and replacing it isn't hard to do, but it's definitely a two-person job. Brutus is right about planning ahead and having a place to put it after taking it off. I just used 4 concrete building blocks and a couple of 8' 2x6s
I had my dealer get the Line-X done to my '99 before I picked it up. His fee was $60 less than the Line-X dealer quoted me.
I got the black. With carwash water and general dirt and smog in the LA area it has gotten a little grey in color. (Not a big deal, just not the pristine black of the original.) It is a VERY GOOD friction generating surface. Things don't slide around. Almost 4 months after installation, no complaints. I still like the looks of Line-X better than the Rhino.
If you're going to the spray shop yourself, look at examples of their work. Pick the one with the best workmanship.
Rich
Thanks for the info. I was already leaning toward the Line-X because it seems to be a little bit tougher than the Rhino but just didn't know much about them. I'll also be sure to look at some of their work ... that's a great idea.
Joel Mc
I had the Line-X sprayed in a few weeks ago. It looks terrific! Nice and tough and cargo stays put. I had Rhino send me a sample of their liner and although it's nice, I didn't much care for the finish. Also- Rich is right- stick with the black. The shop I had it done at wouldn't even consider doing colors because of the UV damage.
it's also a good idea to check out samples of the shop's work. Not only did the owner show me his truck, which had been Line-X'd, but he also had a sample truck bed in the showroom. Good luck.
Thanks for info. As I indicated I was already leaning toward the Line-X.
Joel Mc
This type of canopy may be of interest to jaju or others who are looking for an alternative to the fiberglass tonneau covers mentioned in this topic.
For more detail see my new topic started: "Retractable Truck Box Canopies"
JeffCanada