Back on # 279 I asked if any one had used the moon visor [Lund] on the new silverados I diden't get any response so I went ahead and put one on. If you want my opinion don't they cause more wind noise at the top side that is not cool as far as I feel. I am going to call Lund mon. and see if they have a fix will let this topic list know what I find out.Does any body else have any thoughts on this now? Email me at lwittorf@hotmail.com
I'd be surprised if chrome was more expensive than stainless steel, usually the other way around. I have gone stainless steel because they do wear better than chrome, but chrome is probably OK unless you want to keep your truck for a fairly long period of time (chrome WILL rust at some point) or if you do much off roading (chrome is only a thin coating and will chip).
Just my 2 cents worth about this company. I bought a new truck about 2 months ago and installed a set of vent visors. My wife noticed that the one on the passenger side looked distorted. Sure enough it was, was not like that when I installed it I would have noticed it. Anyway, I called the company that makes them, faxed them a copy of my receipt and in less than 4 days had a replacement set. Great customer support IMHO. By the way, the distortion looked like the material the vent visors is made of was bad (I bought the plastic kind, not metal)and was breaking down. I've owned many sets and this is the first problem I have had with them.
I ordered a bugflector II for my '00 Silverado, anyone have any experience installing these? are there any tips for avoiding problems with them? Any help would be appreciated- thanks
I just got through puting a mpc brand on and it only had 5 screws that went in factory holes and 2 clips on the outside corners. Went on in about 5 to 10 min with no problem. Mine had some clear plastic to stick on the veh where the rubber bumpers on the shield hit had a cleaning swab to clean with I was real happy. Have been told to stay away from deflecti shield they make a lot of wind noise I don't know this first hand.
I had a black 1994 Chevy S-10 Ext Cab. I wanted coverage and security for the bed without the inconvenience of a full topper or hard tonneau, as I frequently carry bikes and other items that are higher than the bed rails. I had a black aluminum fold-a-cover installed for about $400. While it is secure and convenient, I won't get another one for my 2000 GMC Sierra Ext Cab SWB that is currently on order. The fold-a-cover is not by any means weathertight. Rain easily leaks in along the sides, and a heavy rain will eventually get through to whatever is in your bed.
For those of you who haven't seen them, the Fold-a-Cover consists of four panels with continuous piano-type hinges. The first panel is clamped to the bed at the cab end. The next three can be folded up onto the first to open up the bed (3/4 of the way, anyway) and secured to the first by a nylon strap and snap. When stretched out, they completely cover the bed, and the lock engages a catch on the tailgate (so when the cover is locked so is your tailgate). There are narrow side rails that are riveted to the tops of your bed rails, too, so professional installation is recommended.
While it looks reasonably good, it is still nowhere near as pretty as a fiberglass one-piece tonneau, and nowhere near as weathertight. The convenience of being able to easily fold it back was what sold me. Also, it is certainly not sturdy enough to stand on.
Mine was black, which matched my truck pretty well, but I don't think they are available in colors (just silver and black).
The Aerocover from RuggedLiner mentioned above looks like it may be a better choice. I'm going to check it out.
As for the spray-on vs. drop-in liner vs. rubber mat issue, I used a heavy custom-fit rubber mat in my S-10 and it worked beautifully for about $80. Nothing slides around, it is easily lifted out to clean the bed or check for water, it protects the floor from dings, dents, and scratches, and it is inexpensive. I did get a few scratches on the wheel humps that would have been prevented if I had had a liner, but a little touch-up at the body shop every few years takes care of those. I plan on doing the same thing with my new Sierra.
Has anyone seen the PendaTray being offered by the Pendaliner people? If so, what do you think?
I just put one on my 2000 Z71 Shortbed Regular cab. It was a VERY easy install. 5 screws. Only had to make very minor adjustment to the hood rubber stops (screwed them in a couple of turns).
What sold you on the "Bugflector II" as opposed to all the others?
Greg,
Was the adjustment necessary because the shield sits between the hood and the rubber stops or was it in need anyway? Don't quite understand the need for adjustment.
Anyone,
Any satisfied Silverado drivers with a bug shield (other than GM’s) who found easy installation, great looks with truck’s contour, and good performance (no noise without taping / sealing, wipers stay put, no bugs on windshield etc.) and what sold you on your choice. Please tell pros and cons of your choice and include price.
Have been considering purchasing a clear one that allows the backside to be painted to match the trucks colors. Has anyone done this process and how easy was it. Did it weather well and look good? Thanks in advance.
I had bought the Lund Interceptor for my 2000 Silverado LS xcab SB 5.3. Has 5 screws that screw into existing holes in hood. Total installation time with cordless screwdriver - 4 minutes. No problems with windshield, wipers, bugs, and noise. Also, no taping, no sealing,no rubber inserts to damage hood. I've had the shield for two months with no problems. Bought the smoke colored to match my black paint. Understand they also have it in clear to allow painting. Forgot where I bought it from (bought a lot of accessories lately)JBA cat forward headers, Gibson catback, air raid, Edlebrock shocks, Kenwood stereo, and Rhino lining. Remember price was around $49.95 with no tax. Shipping was around $15.00 to Hawaii. Best solution to bug shield that I've seen. I also use Zaimo #5 on the shield and it seems to keep the scratches to a minimum.
To akjbmw- That must have been awhile ago. We got two more freeways. H-2 and H-3. Most of the bugs located between Wahiawa and Haleiwa. Pineapple bugs that is.
How do you like the Edlebrock shocks compared to the originals? I am interested in upgrading to them or Blistiens possibly. I like the feature of their valving. What kind of warranty do they offer? Later.
What sold you on the "Bugflector II" as opposed to all the others?
I liked the way it looked and saw a few of them around. It was also very easy to find at many of the auto parts stores around CT.
Greg, Was the adjustment necessary because the shield sits between the hood and the rubber stops or was it in need anyway? Don't quite understand the need for adjustment.
I just had to create a little more room for the 16th" (or so) of plastic (bd) sitting under the hood that I added so the latch would engage and lock the hood.
I like mine a lot too. No noise, no bugs, no wiper problems here either.
Tony, I chose the Bugflector because I had seen a friend's on his '99. Easy install , and not sloped up too high (don't need a wind deflector!) I had ordered one, and the dealer gave me a housebrand type- took it home, and didn't like it- will get the real thing tomorrow. By the way, I did get the bed mat (Lothridge was the vendor) , and it is heavy duty, fitted rubber black mat. Covers nicely. I am somewhat reluctant to install the piece that covers the tailgate though, which requires drilling! Any experience out there? Question for obyone - you mentioned exhaust upgrades- how do you like the headers? , and is what is the config of your catback? 1 muffler or 2? dual outputs (tailpipes) or 1 . I have read in a 4-wheeler mag that low-end torque is lost when you do a true dual exhaust from ex. manifold to tail pipe, and many of the systems I see advertised utilize the 2 into 1 flange, add on from there with a single pipe to the muffler, then go from out side on the muffler with either 1 or 2 tailpipes. How was the install of the headers? What was the cost of the system, by component?
ovalley, Edlebrock shocks come with a limited lifetime warranty. If anything goes wrong with the shock, they will replace it. Only problem is what do you use when you send the faulty shock back to Edlebrock? My truck came with Tenneco shocks. The Edlebrocks are somewhat stiffer, but not as stiff as Bilsteins.
tfs, JBA shorty headers $ 472.00 Airaid $ 239.00 Gibson single exhaust $ 279.00 Bought all three from coolwheels. Dr. Cool really helped out a lot with the specifications.
JBA header installation took one hour. Gibson catback took 45 minutes and Airaid took 20 minutes. The reason that installation was so easy was due to the fact that the JBA headers were a direct replacement for the stock exhaust manifolds as was the Gibson. No modifications were necessary. I agree that the best performance upgrade would be with the single exhaust.My Silverado has a stock Y pipe with two catalytic converters. All I had to do was to install the headers in front of them and the catback behind. Chose Gibson cause everyone I talked to said they were the quietest around.
T.F. Spencer (tfs) , Greg D (gd5), & Dean (obyone) I really appreciate the good words on Bugflector II and Lund Interceptor. Definitely what I'm looking for. Now I guess it's just a matter of personal preference and its hard to see details in pictures. I'll try to find some on a truck to look at up close to get a true sense of what they look like. Thanks Dean,
I'll bet your riding in style with one of the few new Silverados there in Hawaii. I moved from Mililani in 96. Take a ride down H-3 for me since it was still under construction when I left. Mahalo
Just installed one on my 2000 tacoma. Purchased from PepBoys for $40. I bought the 95-98 model and the screw holes don't lineup with the hole in the hood. I didn't used the screws anyway because the tape was good 'nuf.
There is a wheel lock from pop lock available from jc whitney. It attaches to the winch.
I have a 2000 Silverado short bed. Has anyone had any experience with the hard folding tonneau cover that is in the Silverado brochure? Convenient? Does it leak? , etc. Also, any experience with the Aerocover 3-piece hard cover? Each section is removable and lockable. I can get one for $399.99 at Central Tractor but will have to install it myself. Easy to install? Does it leak? What about Pace Edwards roll top? Any experience?
I have a 99 gmc sierra and I have a roll top on it. It looks great and doesn't leak. Plus you can still put bed rails on your bed. I suggest the roll top but the cost is like $750 though.
Someone asked if anyone had seen the new PendTray by Pendaliner. It appears to be a bed mat type of bed cover but has raised edges around front and sides. It protects from spills and sand/dirt from getting under bed mat. Sounds like a good idea, but it is not rubber which bothers me. I've had bedliners and will never get another as the hard plastic material protected from dings-yes, but they wear on the paint and my Chevy bed was wore down to the primer after 15k and 2 yrs. And I kept it clean underneath. Has anyone else noticed this problem or have they improved them? But also has anyone seen a PendaTray??
From what I hear, the Pendaliner SR (Skid Resistant) and PendaTray SR liners are supposed to minimize the paint rub-off problem. I'm still looking for a dealer who can show me one, as I'm still skeptical as well. I was quoted a price of $239 for the liner. It is more than others I have seen, but if it works, it would be worth it.
I just found out about the carpet style bed liners. I'm considering these only because I will have a cap, and plan on keeping my dogs back there during long trips. I don't plan on hauling that much dirty stuff. Someone mentioned the exhaust gas issue in an earlier post. Is there that much danger that I shouldn't have pets in the back while driving?
If anybody can recommend a brand of bed rug for me to look at, and a possible fix for the exhaust issue, I would be most appreciative.
Would a rubber boot around the tailgate and rubber plugs in the drain holes stop the problems, or cause more? Like I said, I will have a cap.
ww00650 I just purchased a Pendaliner SR Pro for $209 plus tax. It is the same as the Pendaliner SR only thicker (heavy duty). I was quoted a price of $175 for the SR. These prices are for under-the-rail bedliners and include installation. (FREE Craftsman 3-Drawer Toolbox - $39.98 value - through October 31st)
Have you thought of putting a "paint-saver pad" under the bedliner? I had one put under mine after seeing a truck that had a bedliner in it for two years. The truck bed's paint looked like it had just come from the factory. I paid $25 plus tax for the pad.
Sorry, I cannot help with the Pendatray SR. I have only seen it in the Penda brochure.
I just put a bedrug carpeted bedliner on my Silverado SB. It installed easily - it's held in place with velcro tape. Since I just put it in I can't comment on how well it cleans up, but I've had several people tell me that it's easy to clean and retards oil and chemical spills.
I choose it because I didn't want to mar my bed and I wanted something with more friction than a plastic bedliner and less than a spray-in. Since I'm leasing my truck I also wanted something that I will be able to remove at the end of the lease if I don't keep the truck.
I'll post back here in a few months and let people know how well it's working.
Does anybody have any feedback on the Pace Edwards Roll-Top Cover. Also wondering what the advantages/disadvantages would be between a cap and a roll-top cover. Thanks.
I looked at a 99 GMC with that roll top cover on it and it was hard to pull maybe just that one I don't know. If you want a very interesting sight go to http://mars.acnet.wnec.edu/-ehattner/did.htm it gives the drag on bare truck with tail gate dn with it up with tonneau cover with new cap design I found it very informational.
I bought a carpeted bedliner by BedRug (http://www.bedrug.com). I ordered it from California Concepts (http://www.californiaconcepts.com) for $319 + S/H. I might have been able to get it cheaper elsewhere but their prices on my entire order seemed reasonable compared to other places I looked.
Since I will occasionally put my dog in the back of my truck, I'm particularly happy with the BedRug compared to a conventional bedliner. She'll be much more comfortable and won't slide around when I brake or turn corners.
I just got my new 2000 Sierra Ext. cab shortbed. I put on a Snugtop Expo shell (a GM licensed design) and installed a bedrug. The interior liner in the shell matches the color of the bedrug and looks like a million $$$. I am totally happy with this setup. It is especially nice to be able to crawl around in the bed on a soft flat floor without killing my knees on the bed ribs. The bedrug has opposing ribs to the truck bed which results in a flat floor. Best of all, the bedrug is a super heavy duty setup made to take lots of abuse!!! hope this helps.
On my new pickup, I am going to have a spray-on liner and then a shell over the bed. Is it better to have ther spray-on liner over the rail or under the rail with the cap installed? Thanks for any info.
Spray on bedliners? Never. Once it is on there it is on there forever. I have driven my Dodge for 5 years with a brand name liner in it and to look at the truck you would never think I put anything in it. I am trading in on a 2000 and will be getting a new liner for it. With a spray on liner, if you throw something heavy in it will dent the bed. Not with a slip in liner. So what if the paint skins off the bed under the liner. No one takes it off to look at it. If you wanted to keep your bedliner the metal underneath is like new and a coat of paint will finish it off without having any nicks, chips, or dings.
about the ranchhand advice. I did call them, and they did say they had them. I just do not know what they would look like on the new Silverados. I think I'll order one any way because they are just plain stout. A friend of mine has one on his 91 dodge 3/4 ton and hit a cow going 45 mph, did not even hurt the brushguard.
I would go under the rail as when you put your shell on you will or should get a rubber seal that goes between the shell and rail. When I said rubber I mean the thick rubber not the foam that some try to put on. I just got my Raider top and it cost me 25.00 extra for the rubber but it is worth it as it is good for the life of top. With the spray on there you might not get as good of seal and if you take it off it would look better with out the spray on top of rail.
If a hard tonneau bed cover is what you are looking for ,why not go first class, "SnugTop" (www.snugtop.com) G.M. Official Licence Product. life time written warranty, installed and color coded to match your truck paint , and it fitted perfectly "out the door" $725.00 . it comes with dual locks and dual shock type lifters and a pull down strip , each is serialized for traceability.( mine is a short bed silverado sportside , the bed is everything "but rectangular" . they custom made it so it fits like a "glove"absolutely perfect fit.you pay a little more but you only buy one for as long as you own the truck. best of luck to you all . chevy lovers. Dan.
P.S. I forgot to mention that if you contact "SnugTop " on the net they will send you broasures to your address and they will also include a valid discount certificate for $20.00 applicable to a SnugTop" Tonneau or $40.00 applicable to a SnugTop Shell". the bottom has a special thick rubber gasket that seals out water and since its a "one piece" construction the are no water leaks . again ,best of luck to you all . Dan
ADAMGRT, maybe you could tell me if that roll top you have was factory or after market. If after market, who's. I like the fact that you say you can have bed rails with it. thanks in advance F150 owner jlc4.
My experience is with the Extang Black Max tonneau, which does have snaps. However, I think it is applicable to you.
The Black Max has adjustable snaps - they can be moved about 1/4" vertically to adjust for shrinkage when the temperature drops. The bows, which are also used on the Saber tonneau, also raise and lower to adjust for the cold. However, even with my snaps and bows in the "cold weather" positions, I couldn't resnap the tonneau cover after it had been rolled up for a few hours with the temperatures in the high 50s.
Before I bought my cover I talked to Extang and they said that the Black Max was the best tonneau to use in the cold weather, because of the adjustable snaps. If you are planning on removing your tonneau cover at all when the temperature is less than 60 degrees, I would get a different cover.
I bought a soft tonneau cover from NorthEast Truck Caps (http://www.netruckcap.com). The frame has springs in it so it can give a couple of inches when snapping on the tonneau cover. I've reattached the cover with the temperature in the 40s with little problem. I do like the clamps on the Extang cover better, but the ones with my cover still work.
I will be picking up my 2000 Silverado extended cab (short box) tomorrow. Is the Chevy bed liner offered by the dealer worthwhile, or can someone suggest something better?
Comments
I'd be surprised if chrome was more expensive than stainless steel, usually the other way around. I have gone stainless steel because they do wear better than chrome, but chrome is probably OK unless you want to keep your truck for a fairly long period of time (chrome WILL rust at some point) or if you do much off roading (chrome is only a thin coating and will chip).
For those of you who haven't seen them, the Fold-a-Cover consists of four panels with continuous piano-type hinges. The first panel is clamped to the bed at the cab end. The next three can be folded up onto the first to open up the bed (3/4 of the way, anyway) and secured to the first by a nylon strap and snap. When stretched out, they completely cover the bed, and the lock engages a catch on the tailgate (so when the cover is locked so is your tailgate). There are narrow side rails that are riveted to the tops of your bed rails, too, so professional installation is recommended.
While it looks reasonably good, it is still nowhere near as pretty as a fiberglass one-piece tonneau, and nowhere near as weathertight. The convenience of being able to easily fold it back was what sold me. Also, it is certainly not sturdy enough to stand on.
Mine was black, which matched my truck pretty well, but I don't think they are available in colors (just silver and black).
The Aerocover from RuggedLiner mentioned above looks like it may be a better choice. I'm going to check it out.
As for the spray-on vs. drop-in liner vs. rubber mat issue, I used a heavy custom-fit rubber mat in my S-10 and it worked beautifully for about $80. Nothing slides around, it is easily lifted out to clean the bed or check for water, it protects the floor from dings, dents, and scratches, and it is inexpensive. I did get a few scratches on the wheel humps that would have been prevented if I had had a liner, but a little touch-up at the body shop every few years takes care of those. I plan on doing the same thing with my new Sierra.
Has anyone seen the PendaTray being offered by the Pendaliner people? If so, what do you think?
What sold you on the "Bugflector II" as opposed to all the others?
Greg,Was the adjustment necessary because the shield sits between the hood and the rubber stops or was it in need anyway? Don't quite understand the need for adjustment.
Anyone,Any satisfied Silverado drivers with a bug shield (other than GM’s) who found easy installation, great looks with truck’s contour, and good performance (no noise without taping / sealing, wipers stay put, no bugs on windshield etc.) and what sold you on your choice. Please tell pros and cons of your choice and include price.
Have been considering purchasing a clear one that allows the backside to be painted to match the trucks colors. Has anyone done this process and how easy was it. Did it weather well and look good? Thanks in advance.
Tony - 99 LT EXT Cab Indigo Blue Z 71
Good luck!
But then, H-1 was the only freeway back then on Oahu, and it wasn't very long. ;-)
That must have been awhile ago. We got two more freeways. H-2 and H-3. Most of the bugs located between Wahiawa and Haleiwa. Pineapple bugs that is.
I liked the way it looked and saw a few of them around. It was also very easy to find at many of the auto parts stores around CT.
Greg,
Was the adjustment necessary because the shield sits between the hood and the rubber stops or was
it in need anyway? Don't quite understand the need
for adjustment.
I just had to create a little more room for the 16th" (or so) of plastic (bd) sitting under the hood that I added so the latch would engage and lock the hood.
I like mine a lot too. No noise, no bugs, no wiper problems here either.
Good luck. Let us know what you decide.
I had ordered one, and the dealer gave me a housebrand type- took it home, and didn't like it- will get the real thing tomorrow. By the way, I did get the bed mat (Lothridge was the vendor) , and it is heavy duty, fitted rubber black mat. Covers nicely. I am somewhat reluctant to install the piece that covers the tailgate though, which requires drilling! Any experience out there?
Question for obyone - you mentioned exhaust upgrades- how do you like the headers? , and is what is the config of your catback? 1 muffler or 2? dual outputs (tailpipes) or 1 . I have read in a 4-wheeler mag that low-end torque is lost when you do a true dual exhaust from ex. manifold to tail pipe, and many of the systems I see advertised utilize the 2 into 1 flange, add on from there with a single pipe to the muffler, then go from out side on the muffler with either 1 or 2 tailpipes. How was the install of the headers? What was the cost of the system, by component?
Edlebrock shocks come with a limited lifetime warranty. If anything goes wrong with the shock, they will replace it. Only problem is what do you use when you send the faulty shock back to Edlebrock? My truck came with Tenneco shocks. The Edlebrocks are somewhat stiffer, but not as stiff as Bilsteins.
tfs,
JBA shorty headers $ 472.00
Airaid $ 239.00
Gibson single exhaust $ 279.00
Bought all three from coolwheels. Dr. Cool really helped out a lot with the specifications.
JBA header installation took one hour. Gibson catback took 45 minutes and Airaid took 20 minutes. The reason that installation was so easy was due to the fact that the JBA headers were a direct replacement for the stock exhaust manifolds as was the Gibson. No modifications were necessary. I agree that the best performance upgrade would be with the single exhaust.My Silverado has a stock Y pipe with two catalytic converters. All I had to do was to install the headers in front of them and the catback behind. Chose Gibson cause everyone I talked to said they were the quietest around.
I really appreciate the good words on Bugflector II and Lund Interceptor. Definitely what I'm looking for. Now I guess it's just a matter of personal preference and its hard to see details in pictures. I'll try to find some on a truck to look at up close to get a true sense of what they look like. Thanks
Dean,
I'll bet your riding in style with one of the few new Silverados there in Hawaii. I moved from Mililani in 96. Take a ride down H-3 for me since it was still under construction when I left. Mahalo
Tony ---> 99 LT EXT Cab Indigo Blue Z 71There is a wheel lock from pop lock available from jc whitney. It attaches to the winch.
Also, any experience with the Aerocover 3-piece hard cover? Each section is removable and lockable. I can get one for $399.99 at Central Tractor but will have to install it myself. Easy to install? Does it leak?
What about Pace Edwards roll top? Any experience?
Do you like it?
But also has anyone seen a PendaTray??
I just found out about the carpet style bed liners. I'm considering these only because I will have a cap, and plan on keeping my dogs back there during long trips. I don't plan on hauling that much dirty stuff. Someone mentioned the exhaust gas issue in an earlier post. Is there that much danger that I shouldn't have pets in the back while driving?
If anybody can recommend a brand of bed rug for me to look at, and a possible fix for the exhaust issue, I would be most appreciative.
Would a rubber boot around the tailgate and rubber plugs in the drain holes stop the problems, or cause more? Like I said, I will have a cap.
I just purchased a Pendaliner SR Pro for $209 plus tax. It is the same as the Pendaliner SR only thicker (heavy duty). I was quoted a price of $175 for the SR. These prices are for under-the-rail bedliners and include installation. (FREE Craftsman 3-Drawer Toolbox - $39.98 value - through October 31st)
Have you thought of putting a "paint-saver pad" under the bedliner? I had one put under mine after seeing a truck that had a bedliner in it for two years. The truck bed's paint looked like it had just come from the factory. I paid $25 plus tax for the pad.
Sorry, I cannot help with the Pendatray SR. I have only seen it in the Penda brochure.
Hope this helps.
Gary
I choose it because I didn't want to mar my bed and I wanted something with more friction than a plastic bedliner and less than a spray-in. Since I'm leasing my truck I also wanted something that I will be able to remove at the end of the lease if I don't keep the truck.
I'll post back here in a few months and let people know how well it's working.
Thanks for your input, but I could use more.
What brand did you buy, and how much was it? Do they have a web site?
Appreciate your help.
Mike
Derek
it gives the drag on bare truck with tail gate dn with it up with tonneau cover with new cap design I found it very informational.
Since I will occasionally put my dog in the back of my truck, I'm particularly happy with the BedRug compared to a conventional bedliner. She'll be much more comfortable and won't slide around when I brake or turn corners.
hope this helps.
Steve
i would call them. the number is on the website
ranchhand.com
"SnugTop" (www.snugtop.com) G.M.
Official Licence Product. life time written warranty, installed and color coded to match
your truck paint , and it fitted perfectly
"out the door" $725.00 . it comes with dual locks and dual shock type lifters and a
pull down strip , each is serialized for
traceability.( mine is a short bed silverado
sportside , the bed is everything "but
rectangular" . they custom made it so it
fits like a "glove"absolutely perfect fit.you pay
a little more but you only buy one for as long
as you own the truck. best of luck to you
all . chevy lovers. Dan.
"SnugTop " on the net they will send you broasures to your address and they will
also include a valid discount certificate for
$20.00 applicable to a SnugTop" Tonneau
or $40.00 applicable to a SnugTop Shell".
the bottom has a special thick rubber gasket
that seals out water and since its a "one piece"
construction the are no water leaks .
again ,best of luck to you all . Dan
Thanks,
Bake
http://www.warn.com
http://www.genosgarage.com/
Thanks
I would be interested in good or bad comments.
The Black Max has adjustable snaps - they can be moved about 1/4" vertically to adjust for shrinkage when the temperature drops. The bows, which are also used on the Saber tonneau, also raise and lower to adjust for the cold. However, even with my snaps and bows in the "cold weather" positions, I couldn't resnap the tonneau cover after it had been rolled up for a few hours with the temperatures in the high 50s.
Before I bought my cover I talked to Extang and they said that the Black Max was the best tonneau to use in the cold weather, because of the adjustable snaps. If you are planning on removing your tonneau cover at all when the temperature is less than 60 degrees, I would get a different cover.
I bought a soft tonneau cover from NorthEast Truck Caps (http://www.netruckcap.com). The frame has springs in it so it can give a couple of inches when snapping on the tonneau cover. I've reattached the cover with the temperature in the 40s with little problem. I do like the clamps on the Extang cover better, but the ones with my cover still work.