I saw some wheel well liners in a recent J C Whitney catalog which seem to cover the wheel well and provide a fender flare/mudflap sort of protection all in one piece. I emailed J C Whitney to get some more information, and got a response that they are made by O Hara Plastics in Syracuse, New York. I can't find any trace of this company on the web. Does anyone know about this company or the wheel well liners? Sounds like a good idea, but the company seem hard to trace.
J.C. Whitney emailed me another response that they were faxing me the instruction sheet with the company's phone number on it. I did not receive the fax. I returned email asking that they mail me the information. We shall see. Maybe this is why the wheel well liners are not in their latest catalog.
I have the painted step boards on my Silverado. I also have the moulded splash guards too!
The dealership's bodyshop had to cut a bit of the step boards at the front on an angle to make the splash guards fit. They did an excellent job & it looks even better then it originally did!!!
I also have the soft tonneau cover, hood protector & front door vent visors. I am very happy with all these items. rcoos
The cost of everything was around $400.00, which includes the painting & cutting the boards to make the front moulded splash guards fit.
I believe it would have been around $300.00, if the bodyshop didn't have to do all the extra cutting (I was told that it took the shop about 1 1/2 to cut the boards) to make the front moulded splash guards fit!
I don't understand why GM can't make their own accessories work together?????
I got the installation instructions on the elusive wheel well liners from JC Whitney. They did not include the manufacturer's phone number, so I asked for that again. The graphic on the instruction sheet is generic looking, so it is hard to tell exactly how they would look an a given truck. Looks like you use "automotive quality caulking" and caulk the lip of the wheel well. They recommend using an undercoat sealer under the liners to "resist airborne contaminants", although they claim the surface behind the liner stays dry. You caulk the wheel well lip, then drill 15/64" holes around the lip and inboard panel and install "push nuts" or your own metal fasteners with 3/4" diameter washers, coated with caulking. The liner is supposed to extend about 1" below the vehicle in the front and 4" below in the back (like a mud flap effect.) I am guessing that you could use some of the existing holes in the wheel well lip, but would have to drill some new holes in the inboard panel. They recommend installing decorative wheel well trim strips, if you use them on your truck, over the wheel well liner. I wonder how that would look. I still think that this is a clever idea - just wonder why these are not more popular. I guess I'll have to see one installed to know if these things are a worthwhile investment.
I am looking to get into a compact pickup for the first time. I like the looks of a 4x4, but don't like the extra expense, plus I don't think I need 4x4 except for a handful of snowstorms.I am trying to get this purchase as cheap as possible. Can I buy a 4x2 and raise it up 3-6 inches to make it resemble a 4x4? Ford is offering a Trailhead Group to their 4x2's to make it look like a 4x4. Is this a rip off? Any opinions. Any subcompacts I should look at? All I have seen is the Ranger and I liked it?
Ford has a 4X2 Ranger with a Trailhead Group option which gives the appearance of a 4X4. You get 16" wheels, 4X4 suspension, grill, tow hooks, etc. From the brochure it looks impressive. The dealer cost is $1356 as taken from www.kbb.com It's available only in the XL not the XLT.
Does anyone have experience w/ Reese Class 3 Receivers? I just purchased one only to discover it is not welded, but rather bolts together in 3 pieces. I am not sure I feel comfortable with this type of design. I chose the Reese hitch because it is $75 cheaper than comparable DrawTite hitch at UHaul. Please tell me what you think...
jamesbert, I see a wonderful opportunity to acquire a MIG Welder and learn how to weld.
Seriously, I think that I would want to feel comfortable towing anything and would prefer a welded hitch. The last thing that I would want is to be going down hill on the interstate and see my trailer passing me.
Has anyone tried the Bed extender made by Steel Horse? The one that Ford has made a version of for their new F150 Crew Cab?
The Ford unit has angled sides that would clear the inside edges and is short enough to clear the inside top of a cap-high shell opening. I measured it at our local Ford Country representative. I’m afraid to check the cost of buying one from them.
Pictures I have seen of the Steel Horse model do not have the angled sides, so I wonder if it would clear the edges of the rear opening.
Any one got one? Seen one with a shell in place? Does it clear?
akjbmw, The ones that I have seen will easily clear any kind of a shell. (Full size truck) I had even thought of using a fiber glass cover and the bed extender as a wonderful place to store bags of groceries after shopping.
If you're going to expose the extender to the elements I would insist upon stainless steel or anodized aluminum.
I agree about the resistance to the elements being important. The Ford version was light enough to have been aluminum. I don’t remember what the SteelHorse model was made of. Both appeared polished. I’ve only seen the Ford unit in person, hence my questions.
I picture it being in the “inside mode” most of the time to keep those small packages easily reachable at the rear of the bed. I keep a tarp along anyway, so it could cover anything exposed during the “outside mode” use of the extender. It is also a given that there is no security (lockability) when in the “outside mode” either, but this is just part of hauling larger stuff. The shell may be removed in advance to enable the loading of larger and longer stuff.
Has anyone had an aftermarket sun or moon roof installed in a Y2K Ranger Supercab? From what I can see inside my truck, it would be a very snug fit, not to mention the contour of the liner looks like it could be a problem. Any help or advice is appreciated. Thanks!
Be very careful about welding a hitch onto your truck. I consulted with a certified welder about having the L brackets for my fifth wheel hitch welded on my new Ram and he said "Don't even think about it, it will void the warranty on the truck and can weaken the frame". This guy is a very well respected welder in my part of the country and I believe what he tells me. It can also blow every electrical component in your truck if the welder doesn't make his ground connection very carefully. Class V hitches and fifth wheel hitches have been bolted in by the thousands without problems. Have a shop do it that knows what they are doing and don't worry about it.
hello everyone, well I have a 1981 Chevy C10 with the 250 Inline six mated with Turbo 350, great combo one second engine (at 326,646 now) and never had tranny rebuilt. Well I inherited this one and I use it for camping, firewood hauling, daily driver etc, I'm looking for some more performance
has anyone upgraded tehir HEI module or coil and felt a differnce?
I'm thinking of putting a dynomax muffler on?anyone have experience with this?
well any suggestions would be great, hard to find some performance stuff for a straight six. don't want to spend a bunch of money either.
Anyone know where I can purchase spare fuel tanks (diesel) that will fit between the wheel wells and the front of the bed? I'm told they are available.
I am looking for a replacement antenna for my 1999 ford f150. The current antenna is to long and keeps hitting the top of the garage door. I am looking for instruction for removal of the current antenna and replacement comments for a smaller antenna with hopefully the same range. Thanks in advance.
kstateal, Good news and bad news. The bad news is that your antenna is approximately 30 inches. This is the correct length to match the center of the FM broadcast band. If you change the antenna you will affect the reception. The good news is that there are power antennas that would fit your truck. Go to your local stereo shop and explain the problem and part with (SWAG) $150 to solve the garage problem. Then the only problem that you'll have is trying to remember to shut the radio off before entering the garage.
Hi. I just bought a 2000 Ford Ranger and wanted to know if adding on an aftermarket exhaust like a flowmaster would void the warranty. I have the Trailhead package (3.0 L) and it would look really awesome with two thick pipes coming out the back! Also, is a K&N filter against warranty? I live in Florida if that makes a difference, Thanks!
No it wouldn't void the warranty on your truck...except that you won't be getting warranty for your stock exhaust system. Since you won't have it on the truck when you install the catback, you won't be placing any wear and tear on it so it should last for a long, long time...K&N filter is not against warranty, exception being if damage to truck engine can be traced back to k&n filter (using too much oil on the filter to clog MAF)...highly unlikely though.
I am considering getting Westin Platinum CPS step bars for my SuperCrew. They are supposed to have a lifetime warranty on finish. Can anyone give an opinion on whether these step bars are worth the extra $100 over regular Westin chrome plated step bars?
flamingo26, I don't know of the Westin step bars, HOWEVER what it sounds like is the $100 finances the warranty. It's like this. Westin probably figures that one in ten purchasers will remove the step bars, crate them up and ship them prepaid back to the factory. Then there's probably a fee that covers the "Handling and Shipping" to return the replacement step bars. Finally, the purchaser has to re-install the step bars or pay to have it done. If the cost of the step bars is $800, then Westin is $200 ahead of the game and they can advertise a lifetime finish warranty.
I've seen other products with similar warranties. Yes, they will honor the warranty when pressed but it is so much of a hassle that most consumers won't bother.
Before you buy, check the fine print of the warranty.
Most of the bug deflector companies have toll free numbers that can be called from Canada. I would call the company that made the one that you broke and order it. (Use your Master Card or Visa as you'll get the official exchange rate. AMEX usually adds a hefty conversion fee and doesn't use the most favorable exchange rate.)
I've been looking at the Pace-Edwards Roll-Top-Cover for my pickup. Anyone that has one of these care to share their thoughts. Was it worth the money? Would you buy another one if/when you trade trucks? Any significant rattles or other problems? Also, where is the best place to order one? If I buy one I am planning on installing it myself, so I'm basically looking for the best price available.
if you were to go to paceedwards.com, they will have links to their dealers. If there isn't one listed in your area, just email them and they will respond.
I have had mine on a '00 Silverado since October of last year. The shop that I bought it from sold it for $ 700 +$50 for installation. I had paid for the installation but when it was time to install, the installer had his car trashed in the parking lot and told me that he was not emotionally stable enough to do the install and would refund the $50. So I figured I had taken the afternoon off anyway so I may as well do it myself. Wow, the actual install took about an hour. However, it wasn't to my satisfaction as the rolltop didn't roll as smoothly as I would have wanted. To realign the rails (have stainless rail caps) and the rail caps took about another hour. The rolltop comes with about 30 different sized shims cause you will have to shim the rails vertically and horizontally. So here I am working on my third hour. Take everything apart and start over as the alignment is slightly off. To make a long story short, after I installed mine, I could probably do a new install error free with no binding in about an hour. As it was, my total install the first time around came up to 3.5 hours. Yes I would buy another for my next truck or I might try the roll top with the electric motor and remote for about $1100. Forgot the brand name. Once perfectly installed, it works wonderfully...oh yeah, my truck went to a body shop to touch up factory defects in rear quarter panels...so the autobody guys take the rolltop off to paint the rails. When I got the truck back, the cover had gobs of white grease on the rails (they tried to get it to stop binding). Weatherstripping torn. Just a mess. I'm thinking I guess it is kinda difficult to install cause the job the body shop did was just short of butchering my rolltop...sorry about the long post. Best price I've seen was $565.00 from a guy in Georgia or Tenn.
I'm thinking about installing some additional lights on my Ranger that I can use when launching/retrieving my boat in the dark. In this situation they would obviously need to point backwards - I can't think of any situations where I'd need them to point forwards ti\o supplement the headlights but who knows. Does anyone have any suggestions for where to mount, what to mount, fixed vs clip-on, etc etc?
I saw an F150 that had the lighted Ford emblem on the tailgate and it looked really cool. I know they maked them for chevy and ford, but does anyone know where I could get a one for a GMC?
I have been looking at a 97 Ranger 4 cyl., 2.3 L. 5 speed. That 112hp engine is a real slouch, way underpowered for the truck. Is ther any aftermarket things I can add to get 10 or more horsepower?
Anyone have any info on companies that can reprogram the onboard computer in my 1999 Chevy one ton Crew Cab? I've added larger tires, dual exhaust and a K&N filter. Want to make sure I'm getting all I can out of the 350 Vortec and have heard this may be an easy way to go. Any thoughts?
Just purchased an XLT 4x4 Flareside with the 5.4 V-8 and Off-Road Package. I love this truck. Runs great, solidly built, great fit & finish... but ir rides a little stiffer than I like. Yes, I realize it's a truck and I don't want or need a car-like ride... just a little less of the constant jiggling from the stiff suspension.
Does anyone know what kind of shock absorbers Ford uses with the 4x4 Off Road Package? Would replacing them with a high quality gas pressurized shock from Bilstein make an appreciable difference? I appreciate everyone's comments.
there are varied opinions on the edlebrocks shocks, some swear by bilsteins and say edlebrocks are too soft. But if soft and smoother is what you want, pairing the velvets with edlebrock has many a trucker thankful for saving their "rear" especially with an empty bed.
Have you tried reducing the pressure in the tires a few PSI? This can make all of the difference when it comes to smoothing out the little 'expansion joint' type of bumps.
If you are truely interested in softening the small bumps, consider "P" rated tires. The "LT" tires have stiffer sidewalls and are designed for heavy-hauling. They are not required for a typical commuter vehicle that rarely hauls any weight.
Who'd a thunk? I never expected or even thought about rear leaf spring shackles as a part of the solution. I am delighted. I ordered both the Edelbrocks and the Velvet Ride shackles.
At first, I was concerned about the affects of the shackles when the vehicle is fully loaded, but apparently VELVET-RIDE shackles will effectively "lock out" their spring action and allow the compressed system to function as a standard shackle with the leaf springs managing the heavier load as they would under normal "stock" conditions.
I appreciate your help on this one! I will have everything installed by Aug 5th. I will post again to let everyone know how effectively the combination works.
Can anyone recommend a good brand of mud grip tire for my 1998 Z71? I do not want an extreme tread like Super Swamper or Buckshot, but I do want an aggressive tread. As with most 4wd drivers,I am looking for an aggressive tread with the quietest and smoothest ride. I am looking at Cooper Discovery, Bridgestone M/T and Dunlop Mud Rovers. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Stockland Fiberglass Company is no good in SoCal. Rejected 3 covers for my 2000 Silverado Z71 LT. When you pay 825.00 for a fiberglass cover you want it close to perfect "not chips, dings, ripples. and missed matched paint. Has anyone had any problem with getting a stockland shell or fiberglass cover right? Next time I wont deal with the drama and put a Craftsman Toolbox on the back!.
Comments
Does anyone know about this company or the wheel well liners? Sounds like a good idea, but the company seem hard to trace.
Once again, the mysterious Wheel-Well-liner eludes detection from its hunters.
Mike
Maybe this is why the wheel well liners are not in their latest catalog.
The dealership's bodyshop had to cut a bit of the step boards at the front on an angle to make the splash guards fit. They did an excellent job & it looks even better then it originally did!!!
I also have the soft tonneau cover, hood protector & front door vent visors. I am very happy with all these items.
rcoos
The cost of everything was around $400.00, which includes the painting & cutting the boards to make the front moulded splash guards fit.
I believe it would have been around $300.00, if the bodyshop didn't have to do all the extra cutting (I was told that it took the shop about 1 1/2 to cut the boards) to make the front moulded splash guards fit!
I don't understand why GM can't make their own accessories work together?????
I hope that helps!
rcoos
The graphic on the instruction sheet is generic looking, so it is hard to tell exactly how they would look an a given truck.
Looks like you use "automotive quality caulking" and caulk the lip of the wheel well. They recommend using an undercoat sealer under the liners to "resist airborne contaminants", although they claim the surface behind the liner stays dry.
You caulk the wheel well lip, then drill 15/64" holes around the lip and inboard panel and install "push nuts" or your own metal fasteners with 3/4" diameter washers, coated with caulking.
The liner is supposed to extend about 1" below the vehicle in the front and 4" below in the back
(like a mud flap effect.) I am guessing that you could use some of the existing holes in the wheel well lip, but would have to drill some new holes in the inboard panel.
They recommend installing decorative wheel well trim strips, if you use them on your truck, over the wheel well liner. I wonder how that would look.
I still think that this is a clever idea - just wonder why these are not more popular. I guess I'll have to see one installed to know if these things are a worthwhile investment.
It's available only in the XL not the XLT.
I see a wonderful opportunity to acquire a MIG Welder and learn how to weld.
Seriously, I think that I would want to feel comfortable towing anything and would prefer a welded hitch. The last thing that I would want is to be going down hill on the interstate and see my trailer passing me.
Rich
The Ford unit has angled sides that would clear the inside edges and is short enough to clear the inside top of a cap-high shell opening. I measured it at our local Ford Country representative. I’m afraid to check the cost of buying one from them.
Pictures I have seen of the Steel Horse model do not have the angled sides, so I wonder if it would clear the edges of the rear opening.
Any one got one? Seen one with a shell in place? Does it clear?
Thanks.
The ones that I have seen will easily clear any kind of a shell. (Full size truck) I had even thought of using a fiber glass cover and the bed extender as a wonderful place to store bags of groceries after shopping.
If you're going to expose the extender to the elements I would insist upon stainless steel or anodized aluminum.
Rich
I picture it being in the “inside mode” most of the time to keep those small packages easily reachable at the rear of the bed. I keep a tarp along anyway, so it could cover anything exposed during the “outside mode” use of the extender. It is also a given that there is no security (lockability) when in the “outside mode” either, but this is just part of hauling larger stuff. The shell may be removed in advance to enable the loading of larger and longer stuff.
Any help or advice is appreciated.
Thanks!
I believe that the discussion was centered about the construction of the hitch itself rather than the method of attachment.
I would want the hitch welded rather than bolted together. Attachment to the vehicle is per both manufacturers instructions.
Rich
has anyone upgraded tehir HEI module or coil and felt a differnce?
I'm thinking of putting a dynomax muffler on?anyone have experience with this?
well any suggestions would be great, hard to find some performance stuff for a straight six.
don't want to spend a bunch of money either.
thanks,
rk
Al
Good news and bad news. The bad news is that your antenna is approximately 30 inches. This is the correct length to match the center of the FM broadcast band. If you change the antenna you will affect the reception. The good news is that there are power antennas that would fit your truck. Go to your local stereo shop and explain the problem and part with (SWAG) $150 to solve the garage problem. Then the only problem that you'll have is trying to remember to shut the radio off before entering the garage.
Rich
I live in Florida if that makes a difference, Thanks!
I don't know of the Westin step bars, HOWEVER what it sounds like is the $100 finances the warranty. It's like this. Westin probably figures that one in ten purchasers will remove the step bars, crate them up and ship them prepaid back to the factory. Then there's probably a fee that covers the "Handling and Shipping" to return the replacement step bars. Finally, the purchaser has to re-install the step bars or pay to have it done. If the cost of the step bars is $800, then Westin is $200 ahead of the game and they can advertise a lifetime finish warranty.
I've seen other products with similar warranties. Yes, they will honor the warranty when pressed but it is so much of a hassle that most consumers won't bother.
Before you buy, check the fine print of the warranty.
Rich
see I broke a guys bug deflector and I'm paying him for it he says $150 american
$220 canadian
I was wondering if this was about right or is it too expensive
ones I've seen aren't that expensive
Rich
I have had mine on a '00 Silverado since October of last year. The shop that I bought it from sold it for $ 700 +$50 for installation. I had paid for the installation but when it was time to install, the installer had his car trashed in the parking lot and told me that he was not emotionally stable enough to do the install and would refund the $50. So I figured I had taken the afternoon off anyway so I may as well do it myself. Wow, the actual install took about an hour. However, it wasn't to my satisfaction as the rolltop didn't roll as smoothly as I would have wanted. To realign the rails (have stainless rail caps) and the rail caps took about another hour. The rolltop comes with about 30 different sized shims cause you will have to shim the rails vertically and horizontally. So here I am working on my third hour. Take everything apart and start over as the alignment is slightly off. To make a long story short, after I installed mine, I could probably do a new install error free with no binding in about an hour. As it was, my total install the first time around came up to 3.5 hours. Yes I would buy another for my next truck or I might try the roll top with the electric motor and remote for about $1100. Forgot the brand name. Once perfectly installed, it works wonderfully...oh yeah, my truck went to a body shop to touch up factory defects in rear quarter panels...so the autobody guys take the rolltop off to paint the rails. When I got the truck back, the cover had gobs of white grease on the rails (they tried to get it to stop binding). Weatherstripping torn. Just a mess. I'm thinking I guess it is kinda difficult to install cause the job the body shop did was just short of butchering my rolltop...sorry about the long post. Best price I've seen was $565.00 from a guy in Georgia or Tenn.
http://www.hypertech-inc.com/appguide.html
part no. 390202...good luck!!
Does anyone know what kind of shock absorbers Ford uses with the 4x4 Off Road Package? Would replacing them with a high quality gas pressurized shock from Bilstein make an appreciable difference? I appreciate everyone's comments.
DR
http://www.velvet-ride.com/html/xb.html
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html
there are varied opinions on the edlebrocks shocks, some swear by bilsteins and say edlebrocks are too soft. But if soft and smoother is what you want, pairing the velvets with edlebrock has many a trucker thankful for saving their "rear" especially with an empty bed.
Have you tried reducing the pressure in the tires a few PSI? This can make all of the difference when it comes to smoothing out the little 'expansion joint' type of bumps.
If you are truely interested in softening the small bumps, consider "P" rated tires. The "LT" tires have stiffer sidewalls and are designed for heavy-hauling. They are not required for a typical commuter vehicle that rarely hauls any weight.
At first, I was concerned about the affects of the shackles when the vehicle is fully loaded, but apparently VELVET-RIDE shackles will effectively "lock out" their spring action and allow the compressed system to function as a standard shackle with the leaf springs managing
the heavier load as they would under normal "stock" conditions.
I appreciate your help on this one! I will have everything installed by Aug 5th. I will post again to let everyone know how effectively the combination works.
Rejected 3 covers for my 2000 Silverado Z71 LT. When you pay 825.00 for a fiberglass cover you want it close to perfect "not chips, dings, ripples. and missed matched paint. Has anyone had any problem with getting a stockland shell or fiberglass cover right? Next time I wont deal with the drama and put a Craftsman Toolbox on the back!.