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Comments
Does anyone know about this company or the wheel well liners? Sounds like a good idea, but the company seem hard to trace.
Once again, the mysterious Wheel-Well-liner eludes detection from its hunters.
Mike
Maybe this is why the wheel well liners are not in their latest catalog.
The dealership's bodyshop had to cut a bit of the step boards at the front on an angle to make the splash guards fit. They did an excellent job & it looks even better then it originally did!!!
I also have the soft tonneau cover, hood protector & front door vent visors. I am very happy with all these items.
rcoos
The cost of everything was around $400.00, which includes the painting & cutting the boards to make the front moulded splash guards fit.
I believe it would have been around $300.00, if the bodyshop didn't have to do all the extra cutting (I was told that it took the shop about 1 1/2 to cut the boards) to make the front moulded splash guards fit!
I don't understand why GM can't make their own accessories work together?????
I hope that helps!
rcoos
The graphic on the instruction sheet is generic looking, so it is hard to tell exactly how they would look an a given truck.
Looks like you use "automotive quality caulking" and caulk the lip of the wheel well. They recommend using an undercoat sealer under the liners to "resist airborne contaminants", although they claim the surface behind the liner stays dry.
You caulk the wheel well lip, then drill 15/64" holes around the lip and inboard panel and install "push nuts" or your own metal fasteners with 3/4" diameter washers, coated with caulking.
The liner is supposed to extend about 1" below the vehicle in the front and 4" below in the back
(like a mud flap effect.) I am guessing that you could use some of the existing holes in the wheel well lip, but would have to drill some new holes in the inboard panel.
They recommend installing decorative wheel well trim strips, if you use them on your truck, over the wheel well liner. I wonder how that would look.
I still think that this is a clever idea - just wonder why these are not more popular. I guess I'll have to see one installed to know if these things are a worthwhile investment.
It's available only in the XL not the XLT.
I see a wonderful opportunity to acquire a MIG Welder and learn how to weld.
Seriously, I think that I would want to feel comfortable towing anything and would prefer a welded hitch. The last thing that I would want is to be going down hill on the interstate and see my trailer passing me.
Rich
The Ford unit has angled sides that would clear the inside edges and is short enough to clear the inside top of a cap-high shell opening. I measured it at our local Ford Country representative. I’m afraid to check the cost of buying one from them.
Pictures I have seen of the Steel Horse model do not have the angled sides, so I wonder if it would clear the edges of the rear opening.
Any one got one? Seen one with a shell in place? Does it clear?
Thanks.
The ones that I have seen will easily clear any kind of a shell. (Full size truck) I had even thought of using a fiber glass cover and the bed extender as a wonderful place to store bags of groceries after shopping.
If you're going to expose the extender to the elements I would insist upon stainless steel or anodized aluminum.
Rich
I picture it being in the “inside mode” most of the time to keep those small packages easily reachable at the rear of the bed. I keep a tarp along anyway, so it could cover anything exposed during the “outside mode” use of the extender. It is also a given that there is no security (lockability) when in the “outside mode” either, but this is just part of hauling larger stuff. The shell may be removed in advance to enable the loading of larger and longer stuff.
Any help or advice is appreciated.
Thanks!
I believe that the discussion was centered about the construction of the hitch itself rather than the method of attachment.
I would want the hitch welded rather than bolted together. Attachment to the vehicle is per both manufacturers instructions.
Rich
has anyone upgraded tehir HEI module or coil and felt a differnce?
I'm thinking of putting a dynomax muffler on?anyone have experience with this?
well any suggestions would be great, hard to find some performance stuff for a straight six.
don't want to spend a bunch of money either.
thanks,
rk
Al
Good news and bad news. The bad news is that your antenna is approximately 30 inches. This is the correct length to match the center of the FM broadcast band. If you change the antenna you will affect the reception. The good news is that there are power antennas that would fit your truck. Go to your local stereo shop and explain the problem and part with (SWAG) $150 to solve the garage problem. Then the only problem that you'll have is trying to remember to shut the radio off before entering the garage.
Rich
I live in Florida if that makes a difference, Thanks!
I don't know of the Westin step bars, HOWEVER what it sounds like is the $100 finances the warranty. It's like this. Westin probably figures that one in ten purchasers will remove the step bars, crate them up and ship them prepaid back to the factory. Then there's probably a fee that covers the "Handling and Shipping" to return the replacement step bars. Finally, the purchaser has to re-install the step bars or pay to have it done. If the cost of the step bars is $800, then Westin is $200 ahead of the game and they can advertise a lifetime finish warranty.
I've seen other products with similar warranties. Yes, they will honor the warranty when pressed but it is so much of a hassle that most consumers won't bother.
Before you buy, check the fine print of the warranty.
Rich
see I broke a guys bug deflector and I'm paying him for it he says $150 american
$220 canadian
I was wondering if this was about right or is it too expensive
ones I've seen aren't that expensive
Rich
I have had mine on a '00 Silverado since October of last year. The shop that I bought it from sold it for $ 700 +$50 for installation. I had paid for the installation but when it was time to install, the installer had his car trashed in the parking lot and told me that he was not emotionally stable enough to do the install and would refund the $50. So I figured I had taken the afternoon off anyway so I may as well do it myself. Wow, the actual install took about an hour. However, it wasn't to my satisfaction as the rolltop didn't roll as smoothly as I would have wanted. To realign the rails (have stainless rail caps) and the rail caps took about another hour. The rolltop comes with about 30 different sized shims cause you will have to shim the rails vertically and horizontally. So here I am working on my third hour. Take everything apart and start over as the alignment is slightly off. To make a long story short, after I installed mine, I could probably do a new install error free with no binding in about an hour. As it was, my total install the first time around came up to 3.5 hours. Yes I would buy another for my next truck or I might try the roll top with the electric motor and remote for about $1100. Forgot the brand name. Once perfectly installed, it works wonderfully...oh yeah, my truck went to a body shop to touch up factory defects in rear quarter panels...so the autobody guys take the rolltop off to paint the rails. When I got the truck back, the cover had gobs of white grease on the rails (they tried to get it to stop binding). Weatherstripping torn. Just a mess. I'm thinking I guess it is kinda difficult to install cause the job the body shop did was just short of butchering my rolltop...sorry about the long post. Best price I've seen was $565.00 from a guy in Georgia or Tenn.
http://www.hypertech-inc.com/appguide.html
part no. 390202...good luck!!
Does anyone know what kind of shock absorbers Ford uses with the 4x4 Off Road Package? Would replacing them with a high quality gas pressurized shock from Bilstein make an appreciable difference? I appreciate everyone's comments.
DR
http://www.velvet-ride.com/html/xb.html
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html
there are varied opinions on the edlebrocks shocks, some swear by bilsteins and say edlebrocks are too soft. But if soft and smoother is what you want, pairing the velvets with edlebrock has many a trucker thankful for saving their "rear" especially with an empty bed.
Have you tried reducing the pressure in the tires a few PSI? This can make all of the difference when it comes to smoothing out the little 'expansion joint' type of bumps.
If you are truely interested in softening the small bumps, consider "P" rated tires. The "LT" tires have stiffer sidewalls and are designed for heavy-hauling. They are not required for a typical commuter vehicle that rarely hauls any weight.
At first, I was concerned about the affects of the shackles when the vehicle is fully loaded, but apparently VELVET-RIDE shackles will effectively "lock out" their spring action and allow the compressed system to function as a standard shackle with the leaf springs managing
the heavier load as they would under normal "stock" conditions.
I appreciate your help on this one! I will have everything installed by Aug 5th. I will post again to let everyone know how effectively the combination works.
Rejected 3 covers for my 2000 Silverado Z71 LT. When you pay 825.00 for a fiberglass cover you want it close to perfect "not chips, dings, ripples. and missed matched paint. Has anyone had any problem with getting a stockland shell or fiberglass cover right? Next time I wont deal with the drama and put a Craftsman Toolbox on the back!.