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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
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  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Tony,

    I just had my 98 Forester go through it's first emissions test here in Cali. Most emissions test here only test at idle and 2500RPM without a dyno.

    My results were very similar to yours, IIRC. There was basically little or no emissions measured. Remember, the emissions tests have a lot of grandfathering involved so they need to pass properly maintained vehicles from the last 10 years. It kind of shows you how clean running today's engines have become.

    Ken
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    are nearly identical to RI's.... 2-speed test, same limits, plus they add a CO + CO2 test - total must be greater than or equal to 6%. Test is $15 every 2 years for cars between 5 & 25 years old. I guess they figure cars newer that that are probably in compliance anyway, and there aren't enough of the older vehicles left to create that much pollution.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Tony: you have a true LEV. Way to go. Not enough hydrocarbons to measure, and too little carbon monoxide to commit suicide in a garage.

    -juice
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Hello all,

    I have not been here in a while. In any case my 01 Outback makes a minor noise when the coil spring compresses and releases. Like going into a driveway. I know the strut is fine. Just sounds like the rubbing of the rubber against the spring. You really have to listen for it. Nonetheless I hear it. Any tips on it. I am afraid if I take it to the dealer he will laugh at me and say it is normal. Welcome the opinions. Thanks
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    anibalb-
    What does the rubbing of the rubber against the spring sound like? Continuous? Abrupt?...

    -Dave
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    Personal story - there was so much fall out in PA with the dyno testing that NJ has become very cautious. When our '90 (fwd) goes through inspection, they just move Subaru's over to the non-dyno line at the State Inspection Stations. NJ is ready to bag the dyno process for cost and other issues.

    If you have an AWD vehicle and it is put on a Dyno, you can count on problems with your transmission clutches (auto). With more AWD vehicles on the road, the whole process should be evaluated again. Make sure you ask - no matter what State and stick to your guns with refusing to have it done. Each State is provided with VIN descriptions from manufacturers that should over-ride their system requirements, but you have to be careful. Rick and Pete can discuss this issue tomorrow night if you want!

    Patti
  • tlimatlima Member Posts: 124
    Brian, trust me, I feel the same way. Where else can you find an AWD vehicle that gets 25+mpg (my average) with low-emmisions to boot. My '01 was delivered in August 2000, and now has 24k. So it's not too young...

    Juice: Shoot, and me with my suicidal tendencies. ;~)

    Patti: I was concerned about bringing my AWD into a service shop (non-Subaru) for inspection. Figuring some stooge was going to put it on the dyno. Luckily, (1) It probably takes some skills to run the inspection system, and (2) RI just started stringent emissions testing 2 years ago (slow-pokes), so the system is fairly new and may throw the red flag...

    -Tony
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Hypov,

    It is not abrupt or continuous. You only hear it when the spring compresses and expands like going into a drive way if there is a dip or hump in the drive way from the street level. If the car is stopped and someone goes out and pushes down on the fender and releases repeatedly, it sounds like wet sneakers on a dry, clean shiny floor. Know what I mean. It is not loud and it is only on the drivers side. It is WEIRD. But the strut reacts fine. It may just be the rubber housing. Anyone have any ideas???

    Thanks
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Okay, old topic. But I need a refresher coarse. I want to switch to Mobil1 (18k miles). I drive mixed climate from 40s to nearly 100 in the summer. I have been running dino 5w30. What weight should I be running with Mobil1. Also, can I still run Subaru filters?
    I regret missing all the fun here but have been busy. I know I keep saying I am back but one thing leads to another. Now that we finally bought a house here in Eureka I have been busy getting it ready to move in. First wood floors needed refinishing, then some drywall work, resetting a sliding glass door, etc. Next comes the studio/shop I am going to (help) build off the back of the garage. Anyway, one of these days I will really be back and will really send Pat his seat pockets.
    My 01 GT wagon is still the best car I have owned. Have had zero problems. Perhaps a little clutch chatter now and then when it is cold but nothing to complain about. Just good times all the time.
    bit
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Bit,

    Good to hear from you! How are things up there?

    As for Mobil 1, you can run either 5W30 or 10W30 since it doesn't get too cold where you are. 5W30 may result in slightly better fuel milage. Unless you really drive agressively, either should suit you well. Just remember that even though synthetics can go longer between changes, your oil filter can't.

    Ken
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    this is exactly the kind of thing that our guest tonight can answer with true expertise! Join us?

    Patti
  • ffsteveffsteve Member Posts: 243
    I had the same problem with new shocks installed on a car. Only it didn't just squeak a little bit going over bumps, it groaned like an angry Caspar. When I took it back, the installer sprayed a little WD-40 on the rubber grommets. Exorcised the spirit, and was quiet ever after (3+ years).

    Steve
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    anibalb-
    First, that won't be normal [layman's assessment].
    You could try the WD-40 treatment as Steve had experienced with good result.
    By any chance your OB has this guard installed around the front springs from a recent recall?

    -Dave
  • macaldanamacaldana Member Posts: 1
    Hello there:
    Mine is a 2001 Forester with the large wheels.
    I get a very consistent single clunk by the driver's side front wheel. It happens generally when the weight is on the left wheels: On right hand turns, on right hand long access ramps or when there is a positive change of level under the front wheels.
    I took it to the dealer the first time and he replaced the stabilizer clamps or something for the purpose. It lasted 9 months. I took it to him again and he said they re-seated the assembly and cleaned some rust protection coatings. The fix lasted only two days.
    Anybody has any clue what it may be and how to fix it? I'm afraid my guarantee will expire before it's fixed.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    I'd suggest you call 1-800-SUBARU3. A customer service rep. can start a case for you and they can look into the situation with your dealer.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Can someone ask what the torque splits are on the SVX and XT6 ATs and the XT6 MT. My readings indicate the following:

    XT6 AT: 90/10 or 95/5
    XT6 MT: 50/50 or 30/70
    SVX: 90/10 or 80/20 or 50/50

    Thanks.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Anibal: sounds like my wife's 626. I think it may be the struts. It kind of sounds like a "scrunch" under compression. Haven't figured it out yet.

    Steve's suggestion sounds interesting, but I'll try lithium grease. WD40 can make the rubber deteriorate over time. They sell spray cans of lithium grease at auto shops.

    Hey bit, nice to see you. Yeah, the Subaru filter is a Purolater and rated highly on that oil filter study where they tore them apart. Don't forget a 17mm crush washer.

    mac: your problem is registered, so I doubt you'd have a problem getting it covered. I'm sure Patti will help out if you need it.

    -juice
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    could also be the sway bar bushings... methinks that's what mine are. The lithium grease spray has helped a bit - it must take awhile to work its way around between the bar & the bushing. Warmer weather seems to make a difference too.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    I know you are busy when you have the time, I can wait, I am gonna have this car a long time.

    Cheers Pat.
  • babaorileybabaoriley Member Posts: 74
    I'm doing the 30K service on my 2000 OB and I can't find any spark plug gap measurement. Anyone have specs? Also, any hints for the fuel filter change?

    Thanks in advance,
    Brett
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid18/p549309f67e89339203e616f760bd4adf/fdcfaeaa.jpg

    That shows the new one right next to the old one. Open the gas filler cap to release pressure in the system. I also "pinched" the fuel line with a clamp, just be careful not to puncture it. It's really easy, a couple of bolts, pull two hoses, swap it out.

    -juice
  • babaorileybabaoriley Member Posts: 74
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    spark plug gap is 1mm, or about .039"

    2000 Outback uses an NGK V-Power BKR6E -- they are pregapped to 1mm and have a guard sleeve but you can check yourself to be sure.

    -Colin
  • babaorileybabaoriley Member Posts: 74
    I bought Subaru plugs, but I always like to check.

    -Brett
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    no problem Brett, in 20k miles when you need another set you can get the NGKs for a buck or so each at your local O'Reilley's, PepBoys, etc.

    -Colin
  • handmanhandman Member Posts: 2
    My transmission is not working properly in my 2000 Subaru Impreza (AWD). When cold the car works fine, but after 2 or 3 minutes of driving, the transmission stops working: all rev - no go! I shut it off for a few minutes and I can drive a few more miles. Tranny fluid at proper level. No warning lights on.

    Thanks in advance
  • hayduke01hayduke01 Member Posts: 128
    The clutch discussion on engaging the clutch made me wonder about replacing clutches. For those of you who have had to replace a clutch, how many miles did you get on the original clutch?

    My first two vehicles were AT, but since '77 always MT. I've never had to replace a clutch. Had 105k on an '87 Subaru, currently 97k on a '93 Civic, and still <1k on the new Forrester.

    I do lots of short trips around town, with some occasional long road trips.

    The mechanic that works on the Civic told me a couple years ago that I'd need a new clutch eventually, but said get as many miles as possible out of this one, and don't worry until it starts slipping. It hasn't yet.
  • hebushebus Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Forester that has a buzz like rattle coming from the left dash or door. Has anyone else had this? I can't seem to track it down.
  • bird19bird19 Member Posts: 10
    ('sorry, I didn't get to complete my message, so here it goes, again....)
    As I noted, I have a '98 Forester L, and I had a rattle in the area just under the upper left dash. It sounded like loose screws; actually it was like two parts were touching each other and not secured. The rattle/buzzing lasted about six thousand miles and seemed to have ceased in November, 2001. What;s strange is that the noise has not recurred...yet!
    My hunch is that when the weather starts to warm up considerably, the buzzing will return.

    I looked and probed around underneath the dash, but could not locate anything that might be vibrating.

    I hope this helps! If you find out what's causing it, please post your findings.

    Good luck!
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I have a 2000 Legacy GT Limited sedan with about 13,000 miles now. The sedan had a very slight pull to the right when I purchased it with 8,800 miles on it (hardly noticeable; I had to leave my hands off the steering wheel for awhile before it would pull the car).

    A couple thousand miles later I had an alignment check done on it by an independent shop, who found the settings within factory recommendations. They found no other problems, but theorized the tires could cause the pulling. Since I didn't like the stock tires, I purchased some new Continentals. The car continued to pull.

    The pulling became much worse after a little while, so I took it to my local dealer. I made three visits for this problem:
    - Visit 1: Dealer insisted on performing an alignment. Said there was a small deviation in the driver-side front wheel. Charged me $90 and said everything was great. When I picked it up, I drove fifteen feet and realized they hadn't fixed the problem; it was still pulling.
    - Visit 2: Showed up and was told the mechanics were unavailable. They couldn't help me.
    - Visit 3: Mechanics were actually there. Told me my passenger-side control arm was bent and that I would have to pay $370 to replace it. The warranty would not apply.

    By this point I was furious. I baby my cars, and am extremely careful with potholes and other obstructions since I hate paying for alignments. There was no other damage anywhere else on the vehicle. The stock tires, rims, and undercarriage were in pristine condition. The dealership automatically assumed I abused the car, and completely ignored the possibility of a weak or improperly installed control arm.

    In my opinion, if an impact is strong enough to bend a sound control arm, then it will do other damage, or at least throw off that wheel's alignment.

    I called Subaru and filed a claim number. They contacted the service manager of the dealership, who said they would not warranty it.

    What do I do? Who is in the right? Do you think Subaru should warranty the repair?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Bent control arm!

    I bent the control arm on my '88 XT6. But that was when I hit a 9" concrete curb @ 55mph! Bent the control arm and pushed my tire into the fender. In my case I can't blame subaru for my own musings, but if I bent mine hitting a curb at 55 I'd think that you would have known if you hit something that caused yours to bend.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    hebus: check the speaker covers. Pop them off by lifting at the bottom and check if the buzz goes away.

    tyguy: odds are the previous owner hit something. Where did you buy it, though? If the dealer sold you the car, they should cover it. It should actually have been fixed before delivery.

    If you bought it elsewhere, I would not expect it to be covered by Subaru, but perhaps you could pursue it with the person/business that sold it to you. But it would be hard to prove, so you're probably outta luck.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Maybe tell the dealer you would like to make an appointment with the District Service Manager. He could rule with or against the dealership's decision.

    -Dennis
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    hebus: Small rattles and buzzes are hard to track down. It's usually caused by small variations in the plastic panels. If your vehicle is still within it's 1st year or 12K miles, take it to the dealer and have them look at it. Dealers should be willing to track stuff like that down for the 1st year. It gets much harder after that.

    tyguy: That sounds very frustrating. Juice brings up a good point though -- did you buy the vehicle used as-is?

    Ken
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I just realized tyguy's car is used.

    -Dennis
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    According to the independent shop and the Subaru dealer, there were no problems with the passenger-side suspension until just recently.

    The independent shop found no problems with the alignment and suspension upon inspection, and the dealer only found a slight deviation in the DRIVER-side suspension. It was on the third dealer visit they told me about the bent control arm in the PASSENGER-side suspension. So, there wasn't a problem when I purchased the vehicle.

    Obviously something happened between the first and third dealer visits (about a month apart because of my heavy travel schedule). Since I was the only one to drive it in that time, it happened on my watch. But I can't imagine anything significant happening during that time period that would bend a control arm.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Did you take it to the independent shop to have it inspected before you bought the vehicle? If yes, then you might want to talk to them and see if you could negotiate a lower cost on the replacement since they were the ones that gave the car a clean bill of health.

    If the dealer claimed the car was in good condition, then you might want to do the same with them.

    I can't imagine a control arm bending from normal driving.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    tyguy: does anyone else drive your vehicle? I think it would take a pretty good impact to bend a control arm. Maybe someone hit a big pothole?

    -juice
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Ken: Good recommendations. The trouble is the amount of time that has elapsed. I bought the vehicle about 6 months ago. There is no way to conclusively prove that the bent arm existed when I purchased the vehicle, and the inspection simply missed it. Subaru says the damage existed before it was inspected, the dealer I bought it from says it happened after it was inspected, and I get caught in the middle.

    Juice: My wife drives it about 5% of the time. She and I have talked the situation over, and she's positive she didn't hit anything. She's even more careful about her driving than I am, so I'm absolutely confident she's not responsible.

    I know I'm biased in this situation, which is why I brought it up here, to get unbiased feedback. In my opinion, the burden of proof lies on Subaru to show the arm bent because of abuse. Until that happens, I assume I have an improperly manufactured part that failed during normal driving.

    Thanks for the comments, everyone! Keep them coming.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    I agree with Subaru. Unless you hit something-- which honestly, I'm not sure how you would prove that you didn't-- I think that the original owner damaged the control arm and you'll have to foot the bill to fix it.

    Maybe Subaru will feel sorry for you and get you the part cheap, but I doubt the dealer will do much on the labor. Again, no one can prove their position here IMO, which leaves you unfortunately holding the bag.

    You'll never be able to prove that it bent during normal driving... and the statement alone seems hard to believe. There's a far higher probability that it bent because someone hit something. We don't have proof about anything, but consider the result and consider which is more likely: bent somehow due to defective part while travelling over normal roads, or it bent due to striking a roadhazzard of some kind (huge pothole, curb, etc). The control arm absolutely is designed to bend under stress, saving the unit body and other expensive / irreplacable bits.

    -Colin
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Not only that but if you look at my control arm that I bent, it doesn't even look scraped, cause the wheel took the pressure and transferred it to the control arm, it just creased in 1/2. I have to agree with Colin on this, you'll likely be stuck holding the bag.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Tough call - it may not have been abuse, but even some debris on the road the driver thought was nothing at the time. Or imagine it was damaged before you bought it, and weakened, so the next pot hole you hit, even a small one, did the rest of the damage.

    I'm almost thinking your collision insurance ought to cover that type of thing, but it's so low it's probably less than your deductible.

    I'd shop wholesalers on line, or even check out junk yards that sell Subie parts, and get the parts cheap. Darlene's prices were about 15-20% below retail, so you can cut down that repair cost significantly.

    -juice
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    I posted a response on the general forum, but it is along the lines of Juice's comments.

    Once again, I'm sorry for the problem.

    Patti
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Thanks for looking into the situation, Patti.

    BTW, what are you doing up so early? Go to sleep! :-)

    Ty
  • rbstechrbstech Member Posts: 5
    Hey Guys,
    I recently came into a 1998 Outback Auto with 61K.

    I drive quite a bit on dirt roads in upstate NY and twice in the last three days (Only on dirt roads)I've had this noise. Seems to be coming from the passenger side. It's a metallic grinding/vidration type noise. I'm not sure exactly where it is coming from. I was afraid it was the transmission but noise continued when I put tranny in neutral. It almost feels like the brakes on that side or maybe one wheel are engaged. I wsa able to make the problem go away 2 out of 3 times by stopping and engaging/releasing the parking brake. What seems to precipitate it is hitting a bump/pothole/puddle with the right/passenger side of the car. It really is a very scary noise. This only has occured once on Saturday and twice last night. Again, only on dirt roads. I also commute on a rough dirt road and it hasn't happened there (I tried).

    On another note I got the car on a Wednesday and Saturday the timing belt broke! But everything was cool. I really miss the 5-spd from my last car. The auto feels looser? Prolly the different AWD system.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated. Sorry about the long post.

    Gremlin
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Wow! Subaru called that timing belt right. They recommend replacement at 60K, and yours broke at 61K. Good thing it's not an interference engine.

    I have two questions regarding the grinding noise:
    1. Would it go away if you tapped the brakes instead of stopping and engaging/releasing the parking break?
    2. Does the grinding noise increase in pitch the faster you go?
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    are' interference' engine :)

    -Dave
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I have no idea, but I'll take a WAG and say a rock stuck in the brakes (caliper?).

    Anyone else?

    -Dennis
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Gremlin,

    The first thing I would think of given your noise and the dirt roads would be a bit of gravel getting stuck between the dust shield and rotor.

    Rally drivers remove the dust shields, but then again they service their brakes more regularly than normal people. It's also possible you're hearing something else, noises are very difficult to troubleshoot remotely. If you tap the brake and the noise changes it's a pebble alright.

    -Colin
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