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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    dennis, it seems great minds think alike. :-D

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Gremlin: could be a loose exhaust heat shield. Those rattle like crazy at certain frequency (could be engine rpm dependent).

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I thought the owner's manual called for 105K intervals for replacing the timing belt.

    Lots of dealers try to sell you the 60K replacement as preventative maintenance.

    Ken
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    Timing belt replacement depends on model, year, and in some cases, location. California Subarus had 105k mile replacement before some other areas I believe. All current models are 105k replacement, 60k inspection IIRC.

    Ross
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Earlier Subarus do require it changed at 60K. I don't know when the switch took place, or for what engines. I think the switch to 105K was fairly recent, perhaps within the last 5 years?

    Bob
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I think the 105K is actually 00 and newer IIRC across the board and maybe '97 and newer for 50-state emissions cars? Also the timing belt is covered to 100K miles on those that have a 105K interval because CA emissions requires it to be covered under warranty I think.

    my '88 and'91 XT6s are both 60K intervals, blew one at 75K the other has supposedly been replaced at 120K about7K miles ago so we'll see.

    -mike
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    I wonder if the timing belt material was changed to something more durable? If so, I wonder if the newer timing belts can be used on older Subies, thus increasing the length of future belt changes?

    Bob
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I believe you can get the "HD" version and put it on the older ones, obviously they need to be the same engine etc.

    -mike
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Ross,

    Didn't know that. The reason why I mentioned it was my 98 Forester (same engine as an 98 OB) has a 105K interval.

    Ken
    (in California)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yep, Darlene looked it up for us, Patti confirmed it, too. You have to inspect them at 90k, so I'll probably just do the swap at that point.

    -juice
  • rbstechrbstech Member Posts: 5
    Took car to my mechanic for the inspection (10 day was up) and on the way, had problem happen 3 times. It does/did vary pitch according to speed, and once going braking did not make it go away.

    He took it up the same dirt road and could not duplicate it. Put it on the lift, and he found part of the heat shield had bent up and had scraped a drive shaft, some paint was worn off. He pryed the shield back down and says there is 1/4 inch clearance now. I think/hope it is fixed, I pick it up in 3 hours

    Thanks,
    Gremlin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Bingo, I nailed it. Not a bad call, eh? :-)

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    You got lucky. ;-)

    Some of the heat shields have been removed from my car though for that reason.

    -Colin
  • rbstechrbstech Member Posts: 5
    If it comes back, Bruce will cut it off. Had to remove heat shields on my Mitsu Expo and Colt Vista but of course, they weren't touching a drive shaft. :)

    Gremlin
  • storytellerstoryteller Member Posts: 476
    Click and clack have been diagnosing tricky car problems on the radio without seeing the car, and now you are doing it on Edmunds posts! Way to go.
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    And juice doesn't even have that annoying laugh! ;-)

    Ed (has been on Car Talk)
  • rbstechrbstech Member Posts: 5
    Have a slight groove in the shaft, probly not enought to be trouble.

    Gremlin
  • chriskarsonchriskarson Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    This is my first post here. I'm upgrading to 17 inch wheels/tires. Subaru recomends 215/45r17.
    Will 225/45r17's fit without rubbing?
    Thanks in advance for any advice.

    chris
  • nypaulnypaul Member Posts: 35
    OK now, let's hear it from those folks who have actually gone 100,000 on a timing belt with no problems. Guess I'm just from the old school that said timing belts get changed at 60k. The thought of 100k on a timing belt makes me uncomfortable.
    Have any of you actually gone 100k? What condition was the belt in when removed? Did it look like it was about to fail or was there still a safe margin of life left in it?

    Paul
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    I'm pretty sure they'll rub. Wagon owners have been experiencing rubbing problems when they try to experiment with tire size too much. you have a narrower track than the sedan and no fender blisters either.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My 88 XT6 went 75K before it broke. My '97 Rodeo had a 60K interval and it went 120K (when I got rid of it) without a problem. I'd change it about 10K before it's due just as a precautionary measure.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The interval for the belt is 105k, but it calls for an inspection at 90k. Given you're paying for the labor, just do the change at 90k and rest easy.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    My Camry went 80K and 100K before changing the belt. Of course, it was a non-interference engine.

    Greg
  • chriskarsonchriskarson Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your help, Lucien. I greatly appreciate it.

    chris karson

    PS- I was going to get blizzaks for next winter but smallest size is 225/45r17-thus, my previous question. Can you recommend a decent brand of performance winter tire that comes in the recommended 215/45r17? thanks again.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    you aren't going to find any. you'll need a 16" winter wheel and tire.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Winter tires are narrower for a reason -- they're more effective in plowing through snow that way.

    Ken
  • ponmponm Member Posts: 139
    I'm getting ready to change my oil for the first time on the wrx, I know this is a dumb question, but I have never changed the oil on a turbo engine, is it pretty much the same as a normal engine. I wasn't sure if anything had to be involved with the turbo? THe wrx is my first turbo.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    just like normal, except that having a very hot turbocharger significantly increases the benefits of using synthetic oil. if the dealer has already done a change or two, I'd start in with synthetic now and use 10w40 (it can be hard to find) in the summer, 10w30 in the winter for St. Louis. if this is *the first* oil change for the car, use a good mineral oil for the first two changes or so and then switch.

    cams and other metal-metal contact items don't wear in properly with synthetics since they're so slick. after that, go for it.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Would a xW40 weight oil be okay in the WRX engine in the summer? How about in our NA engines?

    Ken
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    You bet Ken, that's what the rest of the world who has had the WRX / Impreza turbo a little longer than we have uses. 10w40.

    Only drawback is a possible small hit (say 1-2 mpg) in fuel efficiency.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Interesting. Must be the Cafe standards that push manufacturers to recommend a xW30 weight in the US.

    So, I was wondering if a 40 weight oil would be too heavy for our non-turbo engines.

    Ken
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Nah... My 1999 owner's manual lists a huge array of acceptable oils, depending on the climate. For example, if you were in gridlock every day in the summer heat of Phoenix, Arizona you might choose 20w50. That's the max on the chart, but it is listed as an acceptable oil for my 2.5L SOHC.

    -Colin
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Up here in the frozen north I have always used 5W30 winter and summer never had a problem.

    We have a pretty broad range of temperatures over the course of a year.

    Cheers Pat.
  • ponmponm Member Posts: 139
    Thanks colin for the info. This will be my first oil change at 1000 miles and I figured I will make the change to synthetic around 6000 miles. The weight of the oil was also a concern considering the wide variety of weather we get here in st.louis( I have seen it go from the teens all the way to the high 60's in one day). Thanks again.

    -scott
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    We have the same weather Scott-- worse even, we've got no trees or hills so the wind is fierce.

    -Colin
    (Wichita, Kansas)
  • ponmponm Member Posts: 139
    Good point about the no trees. Last night st.louis was hit with a pretty bad storm and reports of a tornado touching down across the river in Illinois. I was driving in the worst of it and I found I actually enjoyed driving in it. The wrx did amazing. Just one more question colin if you don't mind me asking. I know the manual recommends using 5w-30, but I opted for 10w-30 considering summer is around the bend. I seemed 10w-30 was more appropriate for a turbo engine in the dead heat of summer, smart choice do you think?
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    What weight would you guys and gals recommend for Florida?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I vacationed in Florida in February at 233 lbs, but my Doctor recommended losing weight, so 180 lbs would be ideal. ;-)

    -juice
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    I guess the curb weight of Crew members falls under the topic of "General Maintenance." ;)

    So with that in mind, I'm looking to lose 40-50 pounds. I joined a gym last week, and have been there every day since. Already lost a couple of pounds.

    Bob
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Doc said it was more like a "repair" in my case.

    BTW, I could not find that Fruit2O stuff I liked, not at Costco. Bummer. No trailer either.

    -juice
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Sams Club and I think(?) CVS.

    Bob
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    You guys are SICK! (j/k)..but it put a large grin on my face..was talking about oil weight.
    P.S...I'm trying to get down to around 145 lbs.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Eh, ya feather weight. ;-)

    BTW, this is on topic because I'm doing it to improve the power to weight ratio of my Forester!

    -juice
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    if you put on skates, I can tow you around the Mall and test out the true towing capacity of your Forester!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Not without trailer brakes! LOL

    -juice
  • theobtheob Member Posts: 148
    Juice, you were right! The Heat Sheild was bent somehow (must have been some deep snow we went through at some point). Once I bent it back into it's approximately correct position, the rattling noise, that occured when first starting and backing up, ceased.

    Good job!
    Theo in CO
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm on a roll! That's two this month! :-)

    -juice
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Check your owners manual. My '95 2.2L says 5W-30 for temps below 35F and 10W-30 or 10W-40 for temps above -12F. Keep in mind that extended viscosity oils like 5W-30 are 5W base oil with viscosity enhancers added to achieve the 30. Over time these viscosity enhancers break down so that after 3-4000 miles it will be more like a 5W-20 oil, and not so good for temperatures above freezing. I like to add one or two quarts of 10W-30 synthetic to get a better performing blend without paying for 100% synthetic.
  • ochsskochssk Member Posts: 52
    I've read about the gas cap - check engine light problem in earlier postings and wanted some feedback from the forum members on my situation.

    We have a 2002 LL Bean with 2600 miles on it. It's my wife's car but she left it with me on Thursday because she didn't have time to get gas. So I filled the tank screwed the cap on nice and tight and drove it a little on Thursday and Friday ~40-50 miles. On Saturday as I pulled out of the driveway the check engine light came on. I double checked the gas cap and drove on. The car drives and performs fine but the check engine light is still on. When I filled the tank I topped it off which my wife never does. Could this be the cause of the check engine light? If so how long before it usually goes out.

    I'm going schedule an oil change for Saturday and will have Subaru look at the light then, but I was wondering what everyone else's thoughts were. Should I never top of the tank???

    Thanks

    Steve
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