Jon - Flemington uses Enterprise for rentals. I got a Neon, but once they gave me a Metro because all of the Neons were gone. :-D The caveat is Enterprise picks you up and takes you to their office about 5 miles away, so it takes an extra 20 minutes or so.
Have been following your Forester tales of woe for some time. Seems to me that you have, if not a lemon, at least one of a bad batch. What surprises me is that you still have the car.
My Forester has not been without its problems as well - mostly related to rear wheel bearing failures - and I have had some frustration in dealing with Subaru dealers' attempts to correct the problem. Mostly this has been along the classic "they all do that" or "you are hearing things" line. However, SoA corporate has treated me very well throughout the process and that has gone a long way with me. While I'm not 100% sure that my car is "bulletproof" I at least know that someone in Cherry Hill has a vested interest in leaning on their dealer network to set things right.
For what it's worth, auto manufacturers pay attention and improve product once they lose customer base and market share, as well as when they are subject to very public criticism such as we can give in these fora. If you haven't sought recourse under the lemon laws in your state, perhaps you should. If not, cut your losses and get rid of the car.
Whelp, the can't hold idle, stalling issue is still unresolved. I brought the car in Sat. and they replaced the throttle position sensor. The tech took the car for a test drive and was sitting in it (engine running) when I asked how it seemed.
He explained that it was fixed, I explained that I could hear that it was not a steady idle even if the tach wasn't showing much fluctuation. As we discussed the issue, the tach started to slowly, visably, waver. I explained that the car was not right, I was given the excuse that the computer could find nothing wrong. The wavering got slowly worse. I explained that the car did not do this for the first year I had it, The tech explained that this was normal, fluctuation and that the engine has 26,000 miles so it is not "pristine". I was about to politely ask if Subaru corporate or the sales people would agree that their engines should not be able to hold an idle after 26'K, when the idle started to bounce up to 1250 and then down to 750. Finally, watching the tach, the tech said "Nope that's not idling right" you better bring it in Monday. While we're on the topic of loaner cars, Bill Kolb Jr. has been using Enterprise, they've put me in a Mirage and an Escort, wow! no comparison the escort really felt poor after the mirage.
Patti, I'll open the file when your phones are working again this afternoon.
are you noticing this weaving idle between 750rpm and 1250 at all times, or only (or especially) at cold start?
when warm normal idle is 650rpm. some vibration and shaking can be normally be felt as the engine isn't amazingly smooth nor the chassis isolation all that robust...
In CT. I did not qualify for lemon law because of certain qualifications. Not in the dealer enough didn't stay overnight. Manufacturer made attempts, yada, yada, yada. W e are just frutrated in the way everything has gone with this vehicle. Though the Forester has defects it is a pleasent vehicle to drive and my wife enjoys driving it. I was waiting for the 2003's to come out and maybe were a gluton for punishment we may get another.
The wavering idle problem is just the opposite, it only occurs only when the engine has been running for a nice while. It's actually much better when it's cold/freshly warmed up. I have to have it going for 20 plus min. before I'll see the problem pop up. Also, it gets slowly worse the longer it runs. It starts out as an almost imperceptible audible fluctuation (I'm sure a scope would pick it up), and eventually builds to a 500-1000 rpm fluctuation which ends in a stall. After the stall, the car will start right back up but still has the (now bad) idle problem and will usually stall again fairly quickly and repeatedly. The Subaru techs are baffeled because it doesn't pop up any codes on the computer.
Sad. Surely they can do their own diagnosis but examining and testing the fuel and ignition system components?
What did they do a decade or more ago when the customer had these problems? Besides slap on a new carburetor or fuel pump, sometimes they did a little thinking and experimenting.
Sorry to hear you couldn't gain recourse through CT lemon laws. I hope that I don't find myself in the same situation. I agree with you about the Forester's driving characteristics - it is a very satisfying car to drive and I continue to find new uses and situations where it works very well.
From my own perspective I am heartened to hear from several sources that the wheel bearing design for the new Impreza (and, hence, the new Forester on which it is based) has been changed. Of course I will wait and see how those who have bought '03s will fare.
My LLBean struggled to get over 19 mpg for at least the first 10K miles. Now (25K miles) it averages around 21 to 22mpg mixed 75% 75mph highway and 25% around town.
I just recorded 25mpg (yeah!) over the weekend with a long road trip (90% highway), full air and at about 80mph.
Mileage seems to be better when I go faster with max air on? Can't figure that one out....
has anybody successfully treated the weather stripping around a sunroof so that it regains its sealing capabilities? I have the slightest leak in the driver's side front corner of mine. Just enough, after a substantial downpour, to dampen (and discolor - temporarily) the headliner in that area. That's how I noticed it. My car is parked in my garage 90%+ of the time, but I want to fix this before it gets worse. I know people tend to not like armor all, so what else is there? Or am I facing buying a new seal, or can I even do just that?
Jim
Edit: 1994 Legacy Turbo, for the last part of my question.
No, it didn't! The girl that picked me up that time was even goofing on the Metro. "Oh, you're lucky the dealer is paying for it. You won't get a Metro." It was late fall, so a lot of rentals were gone due to deer accident repair. The girl apologized profusely and I didn't make an issue about it. I'll never take power steering for granted again(I think Makinen lost p/s on a recent rally and ended up crashing and knocking the wheel off).
I also had to go birthday shopping for my wife that day. A Metro is downright scary at 65 mph in the rain!
You got to admit, it had great steering feel.....I had one of those before as a rental car (because they ran out of other cars). I also got a Chevy Silverado & a Dodge Ram before....the exact opposite of the Metro, gas guzzling behemoths
Have included two Ford Focii (wish they could get those cars down pat), a V6 Saturn L-series sedan (pleasantly surprised), a Mitsu Mirage (EVO VI based on THAT?!?) and a Mitsu Galant (nothing special; monotone interior affected my depth perception). Never a Subaru as loaner - wonder why?
My 98 Legacy's GT light in the A/C controls went out. At night, everything is dark. Is there a bulb back there, that can be easily pulled out? I've talked to two other Legacy owners who have similar problems. Not a big deal, but annoying at night...
I should have looked when I replaced my radio. It took my 3 hours to do that, but I bet I could do it in under an hour now. I worked from below, though, so I didn't look at the HVAC stuff.
My 2001 Forester was the cat's meow. The 2002 I'm driving now is like a biblical punishment. The trouble I'm going through now far outweighs the enjoyment I had before. This car has been my other job for 8 months.
I suppose I have recourse if it comes to it, but you'd think that after all this trouble I wouldn't have to go that far. It leaves a bad taste in my mouth that I may have to pursue intervention after 6 months of begging them to fix the thing.
Actually, it almost has a burning smell and it usually happens after I have been driving 20 minutes. After I turn off the car, I can really smell it and even see some exhaust coming through the vents in the hood.
I have read many posts in this forum about the bad luck many have had with Subaru dealers around the country. It makes me think of all the little gifts I have sent my Subaru mechanic (who is a family friend) and how he has told me of his own frustration in trying to work for these dealerships that just blatantly try to rip people off!!I would advise anybody who has had a bad time with their dealer to also contact their State Attourney General and file a complaint against any of these dealers. Subaru makes unique cars but they are far from perfect, oil leaks and noisy brake pads are things that I had to learn to live with after 4 Subarus. I still feel that these are great cars(and more peppy now!!) and I would never think of buying anything else...except a new mini!!! Mike
Fun car, but the shortest car in America? I do not care what type of safety features they put in the car. Any sort of accident and your risk of a serious injury is increased significantly due to the small amount of space to absorb the impact. Just plain physics and engineering.
You may have a clogged sunroof drain, actually. The seal is not going to keep water out, so there are several drains around the rim of the sunroof. Open the roof and use a strong flashlight at night to look in the front corners for a drain opening inside the frame. Pour a little water in it and see if you hear it hit the pavement behind the front wheel in a couple seconds. If it does not, it's completely clogged. If it dribbles out it's partly clogged. If you can see debris, clear it out carefully so you don't dislodge the drain tube, which goes all the way down near the street behind the front wheel.
Scotty,
There are bulbs back there, but you did not specify which light is out. Does your blue AC button light when activated? If you're talking about the other AC panel lights I can help you. Can't remember which of these Subaru subjects has it, but I replaced all three bulbs about 2 weeks ago and posted the procedure. Takes about 90 minutes if you have the new bulbs on hand. Is this searchable? Can you search my posts for it?
We have a 99' Forester that was impossible to keep running and ran rough for most of the winter, the check engine light also came on (at 48000 miles). We finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealer for service. Our timing was great. The service manager told us that not even a week before, that Subaru had issued a recall on the Air flow sensor meter for the above named cars. Bringing it in when we did saved us $150.00. Subaru said they would reimburse those who paid for this repair if they provide a receipt etc. For details, call 1-800-782-2783. Mention program "WWG-90". Good luck.
John- I otherwise love my Outback, but share your current pain. My stalling and rough idle can happen anytime, warm or cold. It has gotten to the point that sitting at stoplights frequently requires a throw to neutral, and holding the accelerator to about 3000 rpm, to avoid a stall. Sometimes even while holding the accelerator, the rpm's drop back to near zero, then bucks and shakes, and finally a stall. The rough idle is not even close to the normal fluxuation that can be expected when engine is cold, or when a/c is turned on. I was a little disappointed to see that the throttle position sensor didn't work. As noted previously, my dealer had a hard time duplicating my problem, and no codes given just like yours. Last night, the check engine light came on and has remained so. Hoping that is the flag that a code will now be given. I'm calling dealer today for another appointment. I will post the results.........
dougy2 is correct, one way to clean the clogged drain tubes is with compressed air, just be careful and do not use too much preassure, you can even try your garden hose if it is a small clog. Been there done that Steve
For anyone having problems with starting, consider having the battery tested. My OE battery had only 260 CCAs, something like that. I replaced it with a 525 CCA battery and it just cranks over much more easily.
If you have a problem and can't explain it any other way, just consider testing the battery.
Actually Legacys are not affected, only 1999 Foresters and 2.5L Imprezas. These vehicles had the 2.5L SOHC a year before the Indiana-built models and had a Mass Air Flow sensor that was horribly unreliable, especially if the car was modified. Even when stock they didn't survive all that long, thus the recall.
There's a few large threads on the iClub about it. There's also a part number for the sensor itself which is a $45 part vs. the entire MAF being about $300.
I can't believe it took FHI this long. This same MY99 part handicapped the 1999 WRX as well in all markets (Impreza turbo then in the UK).
Went to dealership this morning at 7:30 AM for repair attempt #9 on the rotten egg smell odyssey.
I found out yesterday that the rep and mechanic from Subaru I was supposed to meet at 7:30AM wouldn't be there until 9:30 (after I left for work). Also, the loaner car I was assured would be there wasn't, and the man behind the counter had no idea what I was talking about. When they finally got me to the car rental place, they wanted my credit card (for a deposit) or a PO# from the dealer. The dealer wouldn't provide one. I left very angry after an hour of nonsense. Out of everything I was assured would happen, not one actually did.
The dealership just called to tell me the car was ready and that the folks from Subaru had left. I'm told they did something to the tailpipe so the smell wouldn't come in the car anymore, and that it needs an ECU update that I have to go back for because they're too busy today.
I left a message for the person at Subaru dealing with my case to call me back. That was 1 1/2 hours ago.
Hello - lurked for a while a while ago Took my subie for a drive in the snow got me home i never got lost now, how much did YOUR 30k maintenance cost?
Also, what's a good replacement for the Geolandars? Popped a 1/2-dollar size hole in the inside sidewall; got a used replacement, but they're @^%#$^ noisy. Suggestions for Oregon climate, please.
Some gas companies sell "gasahol" which contains 10% or more methyl alcohol. Arco is one that I know of. I think some others do it in the winter because alcohol is "miscible" (mixes completely) with both gas and water. You've heard of gas-dryer? Same stuff.
Anyway, alcohol has less energy in it than gasoline. The higher the percentage of alcohol, the greater the reduction in gas mileage. I think the alcohol content may be posted on the pump.
I would like to flush the brake fluid on my 99 Forester. I have the service manuals and the procedure looks pretty straightforward, however, I'm concerned that there may be some complications due to ABS. For example, I read that on some ABS systems (not necessarily Subaru), if air somehow finds its way into the braking control system, you will need to take it to the dealer. The Subarau service manual, however, does *NOT* have any special warning messages for cars equipped with ABS.
Does anyone have any practical experience flushing the brake fluid on an ABS system?
I have bled the brakes many times on my (former) '99 Impreza RS and on friends Imprezas as well.
There's nothing to it. There is a recommended order mentioned in the FSM but I always used RR, RL, FR, FL and it worked well.
If you do get air in the ABS system, a dealer can purge it by using the ScanTool. It's neat.
I never had any problems though. I recommend Valvoline SynPower brake fluid-- cheap, available at Wal-Mart and most autoparts chains, and very good performance. The complete volume of the braking system (1999 with ABS) is 10.1 ounces, so only buy a 16oz bottle. You want to be out or nearly that after one shot, an open bottle of brake fluid absorbs moisture WAY worse than what's in the car.
The solution to all my problems seems to have been that the car needed a chrome tailpipe cover. Subaru's regional rep and their technical instructor came all the way to Brooklyn to install that on my car.
Of course, I got not one block from the dealership when the rotten egg fumes filled the inside of the car. I had to open the vents first, though. Apparently, the folks from Subaru closed them for their test drive. I'm not sure how they could expect to smell anything that way, but what do I know.
The customer service rep finally returned my call at 4:00PM to let me know she was leaving at 4:30 and would return on Monday. Of course, what with leaving work early (again) to pick up the car, I didn't get the message until too late. I guess we'll see if they have someone else contact me tomorrow.
Oh yeah. They dealer also said the car needs to go in for an ECU update next week. They couldn't do it today because they were "too busy".
I know it can't be the WWF89 update, because that one doesn't apply to my car (built later in the year). Has anyone else heard about an update for 2002 Foresters?
How do you like the factory manuals? How many manuals are there and what did it cost you? I've looked at the one for my '97 and it seemed to be several bulky manuals vs an after market Haynes.
On the brakes, I think you'd have to really screw up to get air into the ABS controller. Just keep the reservoir reasonably full and you'll be fine. I've done several ABS vehicles at home with no problems, will echo the Synpower synthetic recommendation and the freshly opened bottle only comment. Some vehicles have a proportioning valve near the rear axle with a bleed valve as well. If yours has this, I believe it was recommended as the last bleed after the wheel calipers were done on vehicles I've done.
For 2000, it's 8 manuals. Total cost around $275. (Ouch!) I only got three volumes.
Vol 1 General Overview - Not much detail in some areas. No detail on how to change brake pads but specified the proper order for bleeding brakes. (I'd figure more people change pads at home than bleed brakes.) Did have lots of specs though. (Want to know all the gear ratios???)
Vol 7? Body & Interior - Same thing. Details in some areas but absolutely nothing about outside mirrors!
Vol 8? Wiring Diagrams
They're somewhat helpful but no where near a Haynes. As popular as Subarus are in the UK, I would have thought Haynes would have manuals for them.
Well, I've had the car back for a day and a half and so far so good. She has a rock steady idle. It turns out that the service techs who worked on installing the new throttle position sensor didn't realize it had to be calibrated and once they did that all seems well.
Let's hope it lasts this time, I really like the car otherwise and Subaru has been great at fixing things under warranty, my issues have been more dealer related than car related.
I noticed that under hard acceleration (oh well if you got it flaunt it if you don't fake it), my 01 Legacy GT's AC cuts out. Is that a design or flaw?
I have a habit of replacing the PCV valve on my cars every year or two. Thinking that it was about time to replace the original PCV valve in my 01 OB, I started looking for an aftermarket replacement from Fram or Purolator, but it seems that the usual aftermarket companies don't make a PCV valve for the OB. Then I stopped at a local dealer, where the parts dept guy had some trouble figuring out what the right part is. He showed me a diagram that illustrates the valve (maybe) as well as a complex of hoses all together as one assembly. He told me the assembly was $24. Since he didn't seem too convinced that this was the right part and the price seemed abnormally high for a PCV valve I told him I would come back.
Looking at the engine itself, it looks like the PCV valve is a typical single part though it does thread into the valve cover (many other manufacturers have a valve that is just a friction fit). Anyone ever replace their own PCV valve and happen to know the right part number?
I have the 1999 Subaru Forester Service Manuals. They consist of 6 volumes: 1: General information 2: Engine Section 3: Transmission/Differential 4: Mechanical components 5: Body Section 6: Electrical Section
The whole set costs around $250 from www.subaruparts.com.
For general maintenance, you can get by with just Vol. 1, however, you can ususally find more details on the specific procedure in the appropriate volume.
So far, I think that purchasing the set has been worth it. But then again, it keeps getting more expensive every year!
Wow - I couldn't have imagined a better response. The pictures confirmed that I wasn't mistaken about the location of the part. I'm tempted to take the picture of the part itself to the dealer's part department but I don't think I'd score too many points that way.
Comments
The caveat is Enterprise picks you up and takes you to their office about 5 miles away, so it takes an extra 20 minutes or so.
-Dennis
My Forester has not been without its problems as well - mostly related to rear wheel bearing failures - and I have had some frustration in dealing with Subaru dealers' attempts to correct the problem. Mostly this has been along the classic "they all do that" or "you are hearing things" line. However, SoA corporate has treated me very well throughout the process and that has gone a long way with me. While I'm not 100% sure that my car is "bulletproof" I at least know that someone in Cherry Hill has a vested interest in leaning on their dealer network to set things right.
For what it's worth, auto manufacturers pay attention and improve product once they lose customer base and market share, as well as when they are subject to very public criticism such as we can give in these fora. If you haven't sought recourse under the lemon laws in your state, perhaps you should. If not, cut your losses and get rid of the car.
Good luck,
Ed
He explained that it was fixed, I explained that I could hear that it was not a steady idle even if the tach wasn't showing much fluctuation. As we discussed the issue, the tach started to slowly, visably, waver. I explained that the car was not right, I was given the excuse that the computer could find nothing wrong. The wavering got slowly worse. I explained that the car did not do this for the first year I had it, The tech explained that this was normal, fluctuation and that the engine has 26,000 miles so it is not "pristine".
I was about to politely ask if Subaru corporate or the sales people would agree that their engines should not be able to hold an idle after 26'K, when the idle started to bounce up to 1250 and then down to 750.
Finally, watching the tach, the tech said "Nope that's not idling right" you better bring it in Monday.
While we're on the topic of loaner cars, Bill Kolb Jr. has been using Enterprise, they've put me in a Mirage and an Escort, wow! no comparison the escort really felt poor after the mirage.
Patti, I'll open the file when your phones are working again this afternoon.
John
when warm normal idle is 650rpm. some vibration and shaking can be normally be felt as the engine isn't amazingly smooth nor the chassis isolation all that robust...
-Colin
John
What did they do a decade or more ago when the customer had these problems? Besides slap on a new carburetor or fuel pump, sometimes they did a little thinking and experimenting.
-Colin
From my own perspective I am heartened to hear from several sources that the wheel bearing design for the new Impreza (and, hence, the new Forester on which it is based) has been changed. Of course I will wait and see how those who have bought '03s will fare.
Again, good luck.
Ed
I just recorded 25mpg (yeah!) over the weekend with a long road trip (90% highway), full air and at about 80mph.
Mileage seems to be better when I go faster with max air on? Can't figure that one out....
Ralph
Jim
Edit: 1994 Legacy Turbo, for the last part of my question.
I'll never take power steering for granted again(I think Makinen lost p/s on a recent rally and ended up crashing and knocking the wheel off).
I also had to go birthday shopping for my wife that day. A Metro is downright scary at 65 mph in the rain!
-Dennis
Ed
Hugo: I doubt you be unlucky twice. There are a few bad ones, but not many. Both our Forester and Legacy average 25mpg now.
-juice
I've had a Mirage loaner, too, and thought the same thing. They're LOUD too. Also, a 626 loaner. Neither was anything to write home about.
-juice
Thanks!
-juice
My 2001 Forester was the cat's meow. The 2002 I'm driving now is like a biblical punishment. The trouble I'm going through now far outweighs the enjoyment I had before. This car has been my other job for 8 months.
I suppose I have recourse if it comes to it, but you'd think that after all this trouble I wouldn't have to go that far. It leaves a bad taste in my mouth that I may have to pursue intervention after 6 months of begging them to fix the thing.
Stay tuned.
Jim
You may have a clogged sunroof drain, actually. The seal is not going to keep water out, so there are several drains around the rim of the sunroof. Open the roof and use a strong flashlight at night to look in the front corners for a drain opening inside the frame. Pour a little water in it and see if you hear it hit the pavement behind the front wheel in a couple seconds. If it does not, it's completely clogged. If it dribbles out it's partly clogged. If you can see debris, clear it out carefully so you don't dislodge the drain tube, which goes all the way down near the street behind the front wheel.
Scotty,
There are bulbs back there, but you did not specify which light is out. Does your blue AC button light when activated? If you're talking about the other AC panel lights I can help you. Can't remember which of these Subaru subjects has it, but I replaced all three bulbs about 2 weeks ago and posted the procedure. Takes about 90 minutes if you have the new bulbs on hand. Is this searchable? Can you search my posts for it?
Dougy2 (was IdahoDoug until today??)
Good luck.
Been there done that Steve
If you have a problem and can't explain it any other way, just consider testing the battery.
-juice
There's a few large threads on the iClub about it. There's also a part number for the sensor itself which is a $45 part vs. the entire MAF being about $300.
I can't believe it took FHI this long. This same MY99 part handicapped the 1999 WRX as well in all markets (Impreza turbo then in the UK).
-Colin
I found out yesterday that the rep and mechanic from Subaru I was supposed to meet at 7:30AM wouldn't be there until 9:30 (after I left for work). Also, the loaner car I was assured would be there wasn't, and the man behind the counter had no idea what I was talking about. When they finally got me to the car rental place, they wanted my credit card (for a deposit) or a PO# from the dealer. The dealer wouldn't provide one. I left very angry after an hour of nonsense. Out of everything I was assured would happen, not one actually did.
The dealership just called to tell me the car was ready and that the folks from Subaru had left. I'm told they did something to the tailpipe so the smell wouldn't come in the car anymore, and that it needs an ECU update that I have to go back for because they're too busy today.
I left a message for the person at Subaru dealing with my case to call me back. That was 1 1/2 hours ago.
Draw your own conclusions. I certainly have.
Took my subie for a drive in the snow
got me home i never got lost
now, how much did YOUR 30k maintenance cost?
Also, what's a good replacement for the Geolandars? Popped a 1/2-dollar size hole in the inside sidewall; got a used replacement, but they're @^%#$^ noisy. Suggestions for Oregon climate, please.
Are there others dealers in your area? I guess we're spoiled here in DC, there are 7 within driving distance of me.
-juice
-juice
Anyway, alcohol has less energy in it than gasoline. The higher the percentage of alcohol, the greater the reduction in gas mileage. I think the alcohol content may be posted on the pump.
-james
I think this sort of thing works from the top down...
I would like to flush the brake fluid on
my 99 Forester. I have the service manuals
and the procedure looks pretty straightforward,
however, I'm concerned that there may be
some complications due to ABS. For example,
I read that on some ABS systems (not necessarily
Subaru), if air somehow finds its way into the
braking control system, you will need to take
it to the dealer. The Subarau service manual,
however, does *NOT* have any special warning
messages for cars equipped with ABS.
Does anyone have any practical experience
flushing the brake fluid on an ABS system?
Any info appreciated.
Thanks!
Ken
There's nothing to it. There is a recommended order mentioned in the FSM but I always used RR, RL, FR, FL and it worked well.
If you do get air in the ABS system, a dealer can purge it by using the ScanTool. It's neat.
I never had any problems though. I recommend Valvoline SynPower brake fluid-- cheap, available at Wal-Mart and most autoparts chains, and very good performance. The complete volume of the braking system (1999 with ABS) is 10.1 ounces, so only buy a 16oz bottle. You want to be out or nearly that after one shot, an open bottle of brake fluid absorbs moisture WAY worse than what's in the car.
-Colin
Of course, I got not one block from the dealership when the rotten egg fumes filled the inside of the car. I had to open the vents first, though. Apparently, the folks from Subaru closed them for their test drive. I'm not sure how they could expect to smell anything that way, but what do I know.
The customer service rep finally returned my call at 4:00PM to let me know she was leaving at 4:30 and would return on Monday. Of course, what with leaving work early (again) to pick up the car, I didn't get the message until too late. I guess we'll see if they have someone else contact me tomorrow.
Oh yeah. They dealer also said the car needs to go in for an ECU update next week. They couldn't do it today because they were "too busy".
I know it can't be the WWF89 update, because that one doesn't apply to my car (built later in the year). Has anyone else heard about an update for 2002 Foresters?
How do you like the factory manuals? How many manuals are there and what did it cost you? I've looked at the one for my '97 and it seemed to be several bulky manuals vs an after market Haynes.
On the brakes, I think you'd have to really screw up to get air into the ABS controller. Just keep the reservoir reasonably full and you'll be fine. I've done several ABS vehicles at home with no problems, will echo the Synpower synthetic recommendation and the freshly opened bottle only comment. Some vehicles have a proportioning valve near the rear axle with a bleed valve as well. If yours has this, I believe it was recommended as the last bleed after the wheel calipers were done on vehicles I've done.
IdahoDoug
For 2000, it's 8 manuals. Total cost around $275. (Ouch!) I only got three volumes.
Vol 1 General Overview - Not much detail in some areas. No detail on how to change brake pads but specified the proper order for bleeding brakes. (I'd figure more people change pads at home than bleed brakes.) Did have lots of specs though. (Want to know all the gear ratios???)
Vol 7? Body & Interior - Same thing. Details in some areas but absolutely nothing about outside mirrors!
Vol 8? Wiring Diagrams
They're somewhat helpful but no where near a Haynes. As popular as Subarus are in the UK, I would have thought Haynes would have manuals for them.
Jim
Let's hope it lasts this time, I really like the car otherwise and Subaru has been great at fixing things under warranty, my issues have been more dealer related than car related.
John
-juice
-juice
Looking at the engine itself, it looks like the PCV valve is a typical single part though it does thread into the valve cover (many other manufacturers have a valve that is just a friction fit).
Anyone ever replace their own PCV valve and happen to know the right part number?
Thanks!
Where the PCV is, what the part number is. There's gold to be found on the iClub if you sift the silt enough.
Enjoy.
-Colin
They consist of 6 volumes:
1: General information
2: Engine Section
3: Transmission/Differential
4: Mechanical components
5: Body Section
6: Electrical Section
The whole set costs around $250 from www.subaruparts.com.
For general maintenance, you can get by
with just Vol. 1, however, you can ususally find
more details on the specific procedure in
the appropriate volume.
So far, I think that purchasing the set has
been worth it. But then again, it keeps getting
more expensive every year!
Ken