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Hose-out vinyl seats and carpeting. Cool, eh? Low range, 3 rows of seats, knobby tires. Totally no-nonsense.
Sounds like VWs cost a bit more to maintain? I haven't spent $200 on my Forester, in 47k miles. That's for parts, since I do it all myself.
-juice
Also, WD40 (water displacing) is good for clean up, but it'll actually remove any lubrication you have on there. So it'll be quiet for a day, and then squeek worse than ever the next, and eventually make the rubber start to crack.
Use white lithium grease instead, which is not oil based. You can even buy it in a spray can.
The noise in the front suspension is very likely the anti-sway bar. Any twisting or bouncing sort of make the bar slide in its track (basically two rubber bushings). Grease keeps them quiet and lets them slide smoothly.
If they are dry, you have rubber and metal, a recipe for noise and anything but smooth sliding. Grease 'em up generously.
The best time to do this is at every tire rotation, every 7500 miles. When you take the wheels off, they are easy to access, just spray a bit on there. Alternately, do it at every oil change when it's up on ramps.
It could also be a dirty spring seat. Hose 'em out and spray them as well.
Both our Subies are quiet and do not make any front end noises, but then again both are well lubed with lithium grease. I do not believe that is a coincidence.
Fitzgerald in Rockville gives us great service. We get a loaner and they put one of those service reminder stickers on the windshield. I usually do my own oil but we got a few freebies with this purchase.
-juice
There is a place somewhere where your car rolls uphill but I forget exactly. Somebody check out Ripley's.
I do believe that the 96/97 steering will lock like the '98s just got to get the sequence write. I know I haven't gotten it packed down, but I do unknowingly get them locked every now and then... each time I'll be like "OK, how did I do it?".
-Dave
bit
We're 80 series fans and have had 2 of them. In fact, I was on the warpath to buy another when I ran across the Subaru. After I got the first one in the family, we now have 3 others in the family besides ours. Phone conversations sometimes go like this:
"Hey, did you ever figure out a way to lube the rear door hinge stopper on the 80 - mine are squeaking now, also? I can't get a WD40 tube through the darned seal."
"Yeah, stick a ball point pen minus the guts through the seal and then put the tube through it."
"Cool, good call. Hey, when you get to my mileage don't forget to clean out the air filter precleaner....blah blah. "
Drives our wives nutty. Heh.
IdahoDoug
Most all locking steering columns / ignitions that I've ever seen will not lock until the wheel is moved slightly.
So it's not just removing the key.
However if turning the wheel a tiny bit doesn't lock the column on your mom's Subaru then yes something is wrong with her car.
-Colin
-juice
Planes are told to avoid the area. Normal laws of gravity just don't apply there, it's bizarre.
-juice
tires and brakes which kind of floored me as
I've only got 28000 miles on my car. My car is a 2000 outback. Is this typical for these cars. I'm looking at a about $1000 after only two years.
Any recommendations on tires that last and/or after market pads.
My last subaru a legacy had a lot of brake problems (rotors replaced twice under warenty) but after I replaced the continuously warping rotors with after market (sorry subaru) I put well over 50K on without any brake work. I was told at the time that this was a common problem with subarus but I thought by now they'd have fixed it.
Try Dunlop SP Sport A2s, or if you don't get any snow, Nitto NT460 like mine (same size as your Outback). They are very durable but not suitable for winter climates unless you have snow tires as well. Discount Tire Direct carries them, and they're cheap to boot.
Brake rotors went up in size for 2002, I think the fronts are 0.7" bigger. But the cars weigh more and more nowadays, too.
-juice
Also ask him how much wear you have left on the brake pad. I would not be surprised if you have at least a quarter of a pad left.
Personally, I would be skeptical. This might be more preventive maintenance than neccessity.
"Brake rotors went up in size for 2002, I think the fronts are 0.7" bigger".
On the Cruiser, from '93-97 (last of the 80 Series) you could get a factory locker on both axles. They're electric and very durable. A bit slower than an air locker to engage though. You can lock rear only, or front and rear.
IdahoDoug
I'm not sure if this helps but....
Patti
Patti
-mike
I generally get 40 -- 60 K on a set of brake shoes. I'm light on brakes and clutches though by what I've been told.
So I think that 30K is too short. When you replace them, make sure you get the higher quality ones. They cost just a little more. It's very beneficial in my experience.
My son definitely brakes harder than I do, and he is able to get 40 -- 50 on his 1991 Legacy Sedan.
In Europe these are common. Mercedes have them, for instance.
To turn it off, check on top of the steering column. There is a button right there. It's purpose is to park in very dark/narrow streets and allow people to see you.
I have the original brake pads front and rear on my '98 Forester with 47k miles.
-juice
If this is all it is, I would feel much better. I would it rather be due to my stupidity than an electrical problem. Thanks. I will call the mechanic.
-juice
Thanks ateixeira for the info!
Thanks Patti for the check in!
Personally, always prefer it to be a false alarm vs. an actual issue.
After driving my Forester after the replacement, I realized that the heatshields must have been going bad for some time. Well before I noticed the buzzing while in gear at 2500RPM, I began noticing that I would get a clunk/clatter everytime I would shift. The noise was pronounced when driving by a wall where the sound from underneath would be reflected back towards me. I would get a similar noise when crawling at low RPM and allowing for some drivetrain lash. Finally, the noise would be more prominent when cold. It all makes sense now.
Now all I hear when driving is the pleasant burble of my Boxer engine. :-)
Ken
..Mike
..Mike
I keep coming back to the Subies after ZX5, Vibe, Matrix, PTCruizer,P5 etc.
As you can see I'm interested in a small wagon/hatch type car. I am replacing a ZX3 Focus.
Question,
Of the Subies, which car should I be researching that is mostly the same size as the cars above?
Also, I get confused with the outback thing. Is outback another name for Sport? Legacy Outback? I'm very active with no kids, as a potter I haul things around a lot.
TIA
Frank
Ross
I had the right hand upper and lower Y-pipe covers, the left hand lower cover and lower cat cover replaced (4 in total). Parts came out to $96 and labor to $120.
Ken
..Mike
..Mike
That is very helpful.
Thanks for the input. Can't explain why two Legacy wagons wouldn't lock with keys removed. Neither locked when turned either direction several times. Strange. Perhaps something that is on current models you'd have access to that was not on the '96 and '97 I checked...
IdahoDoug
-Colin
Yeah, I thought about the Borlas (especially with the sale they have now) but they are no longer CARB certified in CA.
Since I am considering trading in my Forester for a WRX wagon next year, I thought I'd stick to stock parts for ease of resale. Also, I figured that exhaust modifications go a longer way with forced induction anyway.
Ken
bit
Just like yourself, I've found for every positive comment of switching to Redline 75W90NS, there is another complaining of gear crunching. Personally, I've never felt that the shifting on my Forester had to be any smoother especially since we don't live in extremely cold climates.
Why don't you wait to try the Redline when you're not about to embark on a long roadtrip? That way, you can always drain it and go back to dino oil if you don't like what it does.
As for crankcase oil, it's usually better to use the narrowest spread your driving habits and enviroment will allow. How broad a temperature spread will you experience? Given that it's summer, a 10W should be plenty.
Ken
As to changing the crankcase to a different weight for your trip "real mix" of temps sounds like normal US driving. So use what you've been using. A 10W will be slightly thicker on startup, but I'm assuming you don't mean straight 10W but in fact a normal multi-viscosity oil, eh? Your car can handle significant variations in outside temp with a single oil type - check the manual and match expected temps to the chart if you're concerned.
IdahoDoug
Very active w/o kids? Maybe a WRX wagon? It is peppy and attention getting with plenty of room. We have a few folks at work that are leasing them and they love the amount they can haul along with having a sporty car.
I hope this helps! I look forward to welcoming you as a member of the Subaru family one day.
Patti
Of course, I'd also check (and smell) the transmission fluid level.
IdahoDoug
Looks like I could lift a bike up there easier.
Never considered a WRX Wagon as I thought they would be much more expensive Insurance wise because of the higher power?
Besides, might get into trouble with that extra HP. :>)
Thanks for the helpful info, you too Kevin:>)
bit