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Comments
I go through the whole routine with the AC, open the windows for the first mile or so, start out with High/Recirculate, but if I then change to fresh air, the truck just never seems to get cool. If the sun is beating down on my side, it's just plain uncomfortable. If I leave it in recirculate, and set the fan to about 3, it seems all right, (at least I can hear myself think!), but it never reaches the point where I can simply turn it down. Granted, most of my trips are short, but the drive from work/home is about 25 minutes, and this should be plenty of time for things to cool off!
Is this just the nature of the beast (the "new" freon), or should I have the dealer check it? I have owned two other K1500's, an '86 and a '93, neither of which suffered this problem. Chevy also advertises in their literature that the Silverado has the "quickest cool down" of any half ton!
Thanks for any info.
By the way, what's up with the drive shaft! Is this thing going to hold up?
I have friends with Fords that complain of the same thing.
Mine ('94) is much like yours, on a really hot day with the sun shining, the AC can barely keep you comfortable. but when the sun goes down, i damn near have to turn it off, it cools so quickly. I partially blame the dark colors of the paint and interior.
"clanking" sound when I go over small bumps at
low/high speeds. Dealer said it was the spare,
then the tailgate and then all make the noise
and now GM rep says to replace rear springs...
Also wind noise from 3rd door 1/4 glass, new
latch did not help. Anyone with similar problems?
My 98 had the same problem with the 3rd door and the dealer replaced the window latch and door weather striping. Hope this helps.
My '96 doesn't have the 3rd door. Sometimes I'd like to have it, but I've never been pleased with the quality of the craftsmanship on the doors I've seen from Chevy. The working is much like the old van rear doors. I've never known those to work well for long. But I've seen and used the Dodge 4 door ext cab pickup and those doors were solid as a rock. Opening and closing a passenger door on a Chevy with 3 doors and you feel if you do it too hard, it'll break!! Watch the 3rd door and body "bend" as you close it (soft or hard, doesn't matter). Makes me want to "open a can 'o whoopass" on a few GM engineers. I can live without the extra doors until they get it right.
My 2 cents...
everyone has had that problem with or without the
deflector. I have seen two remedies, one is to
use black sealer (some say this messes with the
gasket) and the other is to put two sided tape
underneath it. Chevy says this was designed to help the water flow up over the cab. I am taking
mine in this week for this problem and the third
window wind noise and driveline "clunks" at accel
eration and low speed shifting. I have already had an "anticlunk" seal put in along with new rear
springs and a latch for the window. Hope this helps and good luck.
THANKS
Truck has 84,000 miles on it. anyone know of any problems with this rig?- I'm hoping to put on another 60,000 without breaking the bank= any help= or should I just buy new and trade in arounf 80,000 (roughly 4 yrs). I love the chevy's but have had a hard time finding a good price? This one is immaculate!!
pickup from hell!!!!!!! the first week I owned this vehicle , I went to the the dealership that I puchased it from and told them, that it wasn't turning in corners. It was hanging up, and I would
have to jerk the steering wheel to get thru a corner. I also told them that it felt like I was driving on ice constantly, you know that the front end wasn't touching the ground. Just the fact that I am female, they felt that they could pat me on the head and tell me I was just imagining these problems. One month later I almost
rear-ended a car, now the brakes aren't working. I returned to the dealer, guess what the steering gear had been broken and a chunk of it was hanging up when the pickup was turned. The brakes
as of today 9/27/99 still don't work and I still feel that I am driving on ice. This is a scary thing as I haul a 3horse living quarter horse trailer 95% of the time. I fear for my daughter's
life as well as my own and her horse's. I can't get anyone to figure the brakes, loose steering, the popping sound, or the shimy and shake that I
experience. I forgot to mention that I also had
rear axle seals leak, and the front brakes are the only ones working. I have had to replace them 3 times in 2 years and the rear brakes still have the factory stickers on them. Anyone want a headache for sale cheap.........
- 3rd door hung wrong (Hard lesson learned: When looking at a new vehicle, never assume something can be adjusted without verifying it!) This problem was never fixed because the dealer didn't want to mess with the welded hinges. They finally adjusted it where it would close properly but then it rattled incessantly. They said I could have it one way or the other.
- Steering problems -- Steering wheel would lock up during low speed maneuvering (parking, turning around, etc.). Took it to the dealer 4-5 times and they said "They all do that!" each time. This problem didn't start after about 15 mos/15k miles (past lemon law time limit) and it got progressively worse as time went by. The dealership never got this one fixed. The 800# "We're sorry" line is a joke. "It sounds like they're doing all they can...". Apparently, this problem afflicts some '97 and '98 speed-sensitive steering units. This is not the "sudden massive boost" problem that is a symptom of a bad speed sensor but quite the opposite kind of problem (there are about a dozen complaints on NHTSA regarding this particular problem).
- Blown fuel injector (finally fixed after 3 trips to dealer).
- Leaky rear axle.
- Pathetic brakes even after repeated adjustments by the dealership and myself. (I guess "they all do that!" after all...).
- Miscellaneous other problems not worth mentioning (weatherstripping falling off, etc.).
I got rid of the truck with 31k miles on it (thank goodness!). I test drove a new '99 Chevy Z71 3dr before coming to my senses (no more $$$ to GM!) and buying a different brand. That truck will be my last GM "engineering prototype" for a long time!
between a 1996 and 1997 Z71. I have a 1996
Z71 with the 3rd door, has 95,000 miles on it
and haven't had major problems with it. The only
thing the dealer had to replace/fix under
warranty was the fuel-pump relay. The steering
wheel was replaced THREE TIMES. For some reason
it kept peeling-off. Not suprise about the
steering wheel, since I know GM leather is
not exactly the best. With the exception of the
fuel pump relay, I have not had any problems
with it. It was even in a wreck. I thought it
would not be the same, but it still keeps on
going. Question. Where was your truck manufactured? U.S. or Canada?? (Look on the
sticker on the driver's door jam). Another
BB says vehicles built in Canada have better
quality built into it. Mine was manufactured
in Canada. I'm just curious to see if all those
problematic Z71's were built in the U.S. I want
to see how true the postings are on this BB.
For now, I believe Candian automakers make
better vehicles.
My '98 GMC Sierra Z71 was also made in Canada and it's been a dream machine so far (My only complaint is the mushy brake pedal, but I knew that before I bought it, and you do eventually get used to it). It only has 10,900 miles on it, but they've all been great. I'm even getting better gas mileage (averaging 20.6 mpg with the last 5 fill-ups) than most people with '99's and '00's are reporting.
By the way, another way to tell if it's made in Canada is to look at your VIN. If it begins with a 1 it was made in the U.S. It it begins with a 2 it was made in Canada. It also says it on the window sticker if you kept that (I did!). I'm not sure if it matters too much where it was built, though. On other topics here, I've seen people
complaining about the Canadian built ones. It's unfortunate, but I think there is a lot of luck involved in buying a new vehicle, and that goes for all makes and models, even Lexus, Cadillac, and BMW have their lemons (just read some of the posts in the Coupes and Sedans topics) and you pay a lot more for those. The best thing I can think to do is if you do get a car/truck that you like and has little or no problems, keep it for a long time. Most people are too eager to get new.
-powerisfun
Replaced rear pinion seal twice.
Just had PMD (pump mounted driver) replaced because of intermitant stalling. All repairs under warranty with excellent service.
--
The Garage Mahal
http://uscom.com/~hoot/
Also, any ideas for improving tailgate function? Mine is hard to open and close.
Thanks,
Cathy
It should say it on the original price sticker if you still have it. Alternatively, you can look at the VIN number. If it begins with a 2, it was made in Canada, and if it begins with a 1, it was made in USA. Thanks.
-powerisfun
planemech
-powerisfun
Other than the brakes, how do you like the rest of the truck? I love mine, and I like the looks better than the new ones, but I'm interested in others opinions. I'm really happy with the power and the gas mileage (especially since I'm at 5600 ft. altitude). Also where was your truck made?
(See above posts if you're not sure).
That's interesting about the clanking of the skid plates. I'll have to remember to check that if I ever hear a rattling or clanking noise. Thanks.
-powerisfun
springs and now new u-joints, the clunk noise
is gone.....for now. Went out and drove around today and thought I heard a quieter version of it.
It was not rocks in the skid plates, this was a
definite "looseness" in the rearend/driveshaft.
Still waiting on 3rd door 1/4 glass to come in.
If that takes care of the noise inside, hell I
just might keep the thing
It's interesting that the back brakes are still the factory set. I wonder if that means the problem you're experiencing with the front pads is because the back brakes aren't engaging to the extent they should be when you step on the brake pedal. Maybe that's a problem with all of the pre'99 trucks. I know with my truck, when I use the parking brake, I really have to put it all the way to the floor to get it to engage. I wonder if that's related somehow.
Regarding the Goodyear tires, someone here in my town told me that he had two flats within a few miles while "off-roading" on a gravel road. He had to get towed because he used his spare on the first flat. What a bummer. I was thinking it was just a coincidence or something (like maybe he ran over glass or nails and didn't realize it), but from what you say, it appears these tires really suck (or I guess "blow" would be the more correct word). I was going to replace my rims in a few months (just to give it a different look), maybe I'll replace the tires as well (and try to sell the rims and tires as a package).
Yeah, I tend to like Chevy/GMC as well for trucks. However, if you go with the midsize SUV,
go with the Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer. I had one and loved it. I traded it in for this pick-up though, because I didn't really need an SUV, plus I had a bunch of discounts for a GM product (GM card rebate, college grad rebate, manufacturer's rebate) that were about to expire and I'd always wanted an x-cab pick-up. For full-sized SUV, I'd go with Tahoe/Yukon over the Expedition. I don't know enough about the new Excursion to recommend that over the Suburban/Yukon-XL. What a monster, though!
-powerisfun
A mech. talk show says this is a common problem with 1/2 ton chevys.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Thanks for the warning and good luck with your Chevy.
-powerisfun
I looked at the bearings and the races were slightly scoured. If it would have gone on it could have lunched the entire diff.
The load should not make a diff. since it is in the ratings for the truck IMHO>
I'd forgotten that I experienced the "hanging throttle" problem. It used to stick right at 1500 RPM. It's like the computer was busy wondering if it should shift and forgot to check the TPS input to see if the gas pedal had been released. I never even got around to complaining about that one because I considered the steering and brakes to be the worst problem.
I even adjusted the brakes on that truck every 6,000 miles--a fat lot of good that did! Did automatic adjusters actually work back in the 80's and 70's or is it just the lack of asbestos in the brake pads now?
By the way, the dealer replaced the steering speed sensor on my truck at least once (I can't remember if they replaced it again on a subsequent visit--they had the truck 4 or 5 times for the steering problem without fixing it). It didn't do much, if anything to fix my "sticky steering" problem. I never had the "full unexpected boost" problem that is a classic symptom of the steering sensor's death. They also rebuilt, then replaced the steering gearbox upon the factory tech's recommendation. No difference either time. Finally, they offered to put an older (96 or beyond non variable-assist) unit on it but they warned me people had complained about those units, also (there's something I really wanted to hear!). I told them I'd get back to them and promptly traded the truck. My life has been much less stressful since then. I've only visited the dealership once with the new truck and that trip was to get a keyless entry fob. I've put 5500 miles on the truck with no service-related trips to the dealer--that never happened last time. Oh, by the way, did I mention the new truck is not a GM product?
Ironically, my brother-in-law has a '97 Chevy K1500 Z71 that was made in Michigan. The only difference between his truck and my former truck is his doesn't have the third door and he has leather interior. He's had almost no problems with his truck in 50,000 miles (he drives a lot) and he doesn't even take good care of his vehicles! I must just be a GM junk magnet... I wonder if you can buy "Official GM Beta Tester" T-shirts?
--Tom
-powerisfun
My new(er) truck is a '99 Dodge Quad Cab 1/2 ton 4x4. This is my first Chrysler product. It was 6 months old when I bought it--it had 13,500 contractor-driven miles on it. I'm not sure how well it was cared for, but I'm hoping 13,500 miles is too few to harm it. The price was very reasonable, so I took a chance. The truck has a high step-in height, it rides like a truck (go figure), the 318 engine can't compare to the Chevy 350, and the cloth interior isn't as nice as the one on my '97 Chevy--basically, everything Popular Mechanics says about the Dodge trucks is true. If you want a truck that rides like a Lexus, don't buy a Dodge. On the other hand, I wanted a truck, not a family sedan. The truck handles amazingly well for something that's so tall (absolutely no body lean on curves), the steering actually works, and the truck stops when I hit the brake pedal (no squishy feel). You can stand in the engine compartment. Everything on the truck is simple (sans replacing the fuel filter). The four doors open and close properly without having to slam them over and over again. Best of all, I haven't had to visit the service department yet. Come to think of it, there's nothing I'd change so far. I don't know how it will hold up in the long run (these trucks seem to have lots of transmission problems) but it's been OK so far. I won't be trying to race any Chevys, though.
--Tom(fingers crossed)C.
I knew too not to even think about a first-year vehicle (i.e. the '99 trucks) from GM. From what I'm hearing the 2000's aren't much better (still have vibrations and clunking drivelines). Probably won't have those bugs completely worked out till 2002 or so.
I envy you your 4th door on your quad-cab. I have the 3rd door and that's such a great convenience. I wish it were on the driver's side, though. I occasionally do have to re-slam the passenger door because of the third-door flex, but it's not a problem yet. I'm also leary of the independent front suspension (IFS). The Dodges still have full-front axles, which is one reason they "ride like a truck", but they're bullet-proof. Dodge is supposed to be brining back the Hemi-head engine, so that may be worth looking into in a few years. Anyway, best of luck with yours.
-powerisfun
I do like the solid axle and coil spring setup on the Dodge. I always wanted to stiffen the Chevy's suspension to control body lean--that's not an issue with the Dodge. That's interesting about the return of the hemi--I wonder if it can meet modern emissions standards?
I hope you get good service out of your Chevy. I've known several people who have had really good luck with them regardless of how they treated the vehicle. I thought the law of averages would catch up with me eventually! Maybe next time.
--TomC
Two possible suggestions: 1) Pay for the dealer to install the bigger brake components of the K2500 if possible, or 2) I noticed in the JCWhitney catalog that they have rear-wheel drum-to-disc conversion kits (cost about $650). Having rear disc brakes may help considerably.
Both of those options will be fairly costly, though.
Good luck!
-powerisfun
So I used my favorite tool, a pyrometer. Seemed like when the brakes acted up the right front brake rotor was always hotter than the left. The rear drums were always much the same temperature.
This took some explaining to the dealer and after several trips and a "show'n tell they realized that maybe there was a problem. Finally after one visit, the brakes seemed fine (still are, the pedal is firmer, no pull or wheel lock). Asked the dealer what they had done. the reply was that they suspected air in the brake hydraulic system. The ABS brake system evidently the process is difficult and must be done correctly. Never explained how the system got that way. I had the truck since new, unless they tried doing something when I first complained.
But the pyrometer tells me that both front rotors are close to equal temperature and have not had any problems for the last 12,000 miles.
-powerisfun
Starting using the pyrometer on an earlier Camero that had a performance problem. Measure the exhaust manifold ports to quickly establish an average then the readings that are hotter than the average indicate the cylinder is running lean. If it is running cooler, then the cylinder is running rich.
It sure helped resolve my performance problems. The pyrometer, vacuum gauge and DVM are my favorite tools and always at the ready. It helps me deal with the dealer, especially when I have problems getting them to understand.
They seem to think that I have all the time in the world to deal with my vehicle's problems. It is also a shock to learn that most professional mechanics have problems with ohm's law.
Anyway it has been a help in dealing with the problems with GM vehicles that I have owned, especially the computer controlled ones.
You might ask why I keep going to GM? It is kinda like "it is better to deal with the devil you think you know"
Cheers