Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

henne · February 2001

thanks Pat. I am hoping they can eliminate the alarm as I dont want it anyway. I t came with the car and I dont like alarms. So hopefully this will be a smooth transition. The unit is a DEI Valet 552T unit.

Thanks all.

Robert

hondafriek · February 2001

Robert it is very simple to remove the alarm any competent installer for your remote start can do that for you.
Cheers Pat.

joeb24 · February 2001

Hi Todd,

The fact you you experience to same jerky decelleration above 55 mph makes me feel better about it. It's no big deal, so I guess we can live with it.

The automatic climate control works well, but yes I noticed the AC coming on, especialy when I dropped the temp from the low to mid 70s to the upper 60s. I felt I was wasting gas to have the AC on in winter; so I mostly use the system in manual mode now. I guess avoiding the AC could save a litle gas.

Bluesubie - Wow! $700. for your windshield! Let's hope we don't catch any more rocks anytime soon. Actually mine would have cost around 600., except that the dealer sold it at discount.

paisan · February 2001

Is there any way to use the auto-climate control w/o the A/C compressor coming on? On my Trooper I have auto climate control, but since it's analog instead of digital, I can opt for the A/C to be in the "Off" position even when I have it on auto mode.

-mike

dannyka · February 2001

juice,

Thanks for the advice on the patch kit. I've seen some *bad* patch jobs which is not a pretty site. I'll get one and try it as you suggested.

-Dan

hondafriek · February 2001

Dan, we have an outfit in Ottawa called fibre renew they repair cigarette burns and tears in car interiors you must have similar outfits down there in the states thats usually were all these franchises origionate from, I had an idiot put a small tear in my leather seat these guys fixed it and I can ;t even find it.
Cheers Pat.

ateixeira · February 2001

Jayhawk: I'm a bit tougher than paisan - three strikes and you're out. So far they've looked at it once. I think they are making an effort to solve the problem, and that has to count for something.

Dan: yeah, I'd even practice on a scrap peice of vinyl, not on your car.

Pat's tip seems intriguing, though.

-juice

vtz · February 2001

Hi, my wife complaints in our 2001 Forester that she doesn't get enough heat onto her feet. Checking it, the heat flow is pretty small. Can somebody give me advice about how much heat /air should go towards the feet? Thanks, TV

locke2c · February 2001

Notice that the side vents blow even when the selector is set to lower output only. Close them and you will note more heat on your feet-- or at least, less up top. You can then turn up the heat to your liking.

-Colin

logger2 · February 2001

You from Ottawa, so am I - but i dont live there anymore.

ateixeira · February 2001

If you have the interior air filtration, that may reduce air flow a little, but I have it and I can toast my feet if need be. Try Colin's tip.

-juice

hondafriek · February 2001

Yeah Jason, I live in Ottawa south off of Bank St. where in Ottawa did you live and how long ago? I am from Ireland origionally, came to Canada in 1974, and have no regrets other than the fact that all my brothers and sisters are still over there.
Cheers Pat.

logger2 · February 2001

Grew up there around the west end and left about 7 yrs ago now i guess. Email me if you want to jdain@ns.sympatico.ca

spi9959 · February 2001

The problem of the Forester dipstick and the difficulty getting accurate readings from it was brought up in another Subaru forum. Any of you have a technique for getting an accurate, reliable, and comprehensible reading from it when the oil is either hot or cold? For me, it is very difficult to know when and if I need to add oil. Thanks.

ateixeira · February 2001

That's the first I heard of that.

Mine doesn't burn oil, though. I've never needed to add any inbetween changes. Just 4.6 quarts or so at each change.

I'd measure on level ground with a cold engine.

-juice

owells · February 2001

I think the dipstick is hard to read. I've never seen a dipstick with different full marks for cold and hot readings. I've found that checking first thing in the morning is the most accurate. I only use 4 quarts in our '00 Legacy L (phase II engine) at each oil change, even though the manual calls for 4.2 (I believe). 4 quarts puts it just below the "cold" mark--checked before starting in the morning. We haven't yet had to add anything between changes.

paisan · February 2001

I've found different cars get the oil checked at different temps. Some hot, some cold.

-mike

henne · February 2001

anyone have a problem where when you turn on your rear window defroster, the radio goes from good reception to just static on all stations?

any ideas would be appreciated.

p.s. less than 150 miles. im not off to a good start with my first subaru, already going into the shop.

robert

henne · February 2001

sorry its a 2001 outback sedan with the upgraded stereo and alarm

inmotion1 · February 2001

I have a new 2001 LL Bean Outback wagon and have been having trouble with the remote power lock/unlock controls working inconsistently at best. The dealer tells us there is interference but I have never had a problem with my Toyota Sienna power locks, even from distances of 30 to 40 feet. Any info would be helpful. Thanks.

texsubaru · February 2001

Well, nope never noticed any interference between the rear defroster and the radio in my '98 Forester. Sounds like something the dealer can and should fix.

schragem · February 2001

Recently bought an '01 Forester S+ and was wondering about tire inflation pressure. Do you follow the Subaru guidelines, or go higher for primarily hwy driving (and lower for moderate offroading)? Trying to maximize mileage...any advice? Thanks,
Matt S.

kens · February 2001

Matt,

Congratulations on your new purchase. In general, the manufacturer's recommended tire pressures are usually on the low side for maximum comfort.

I typically run my Geolandars at around 32psi all around. You'll find handling to be better than the recommended settings and it should help fuel milage somewhat.

I always change my tire pressure settings based on my needs. For everyday driving, it's about 32psi. For carrying heavy cargo or lots of passengers, I usually up the rears to about 36.

Ken

cdb420 · February 2001

Well, after resetting the ECU, realizing that the tires are actually standard size (not 235's, as my addled brain thought), and three more fillups of gas, I'm still getting 17.5-18.5 MPG in ombined driving (about 40% freeway) with my '98 Forester S, which is completely stock.

Any ideas? I've heard, via this list and others, that there may be problems with oxygen sensors that read as "okay" on the dealer's computer but are just a bit "off". Any other ideas?

The one thing I don't think we need to discuss (again) is the addled idea that "well, some of them get good mileage, and some don't". The factory sticker lists EPA estimates of 21 city and 26 highway, and 18.5 combined isn't even close. *Something* is different in a vehicle that's so far off. Does anybody know what that might be?

Dave (cdb420)
Original post #437

bassist · February 2001

cdb420:

Do you have manual or automatic trans?

On my '01 MT I was also getting around 18mpg
before I changed to gearshifting closer to where
the manual recommends.

I was shifting around 3000rpm for every gear (a bit heavy footed),
whereas it should be closer to 2500pm for 1st & 2nd. My mileage has since improved to about 22mpg. I've found that the MPG is pretty sensitive to driving style and that city driving drops it a lot.

bassist · February 2001

Kens,

I also check the tire pressure regularly but
have always wondered how much you could trust
the gauge reading accuracy. Seems like the error
is at least 2 to 3 psi with the cheap analog
gauges. With this kind of error is it worth
trying to finetune the tire pressure?

I figure the best I can do is at least get nearly equal pressure in all four.

kens · February 2001

Cameron,

I agree -- the accuracy on tire gauges is probably only good for up to 2~3 psi differences. However, I do believe that the precision isn't so bad so you can at least be sure that all four are within reasonable range of each other. I just find the 32 psi off of my gauge works best for me. Interestingly, I've measured my pressure with several gauges just for kicks and found that they were all within 1 psi of each other.

Also, I've found that a you need almost a 4~5 psi difference to feel an effect on tires. That's why if I plan on hauling lots of weight, I up the rears to 36psi.

Ken

hciaffa · February 2001

Our 99 forester L suffers from terrrble gas mileage as well, 13-16mpg in the city and 16-19 on the highway. If your looking for sympathy from SOA you probably will not get it. I realize that the mileage is no where near as what the sticker says 21/27 but after talking to SOA reps and haveing our Forester serviced for this issue as well as filling out a spread sheet of out mileage they feel that getting 18.5 average mpg is well within the tolerance and is acceptable to them (not to me though). The sticker mpg numbers are there as a guide as they told me, yeah but that guide is what swayed my wife to buy ther product. Right now a poor product at that.

bassist · February 2001

The forester manual says to replace the drain plug washer for each oil change. Seems unnecessary to me
Does anyone actually replace the washer?

locke2c · February 2001

Yes, I do. It's a crush washer and it won't seal the same way more than once.

I buy washers and OE filters cheap in sets of six from Quality Subaru.

-Colin

bassist · February 2001

Colin,

I didn't see the washers listed at the qsubaru.homepage.com site.

Do you have to request this item by email?

Cam

locke2c · February 2001

You can but I think the best way is to call. Are you planning on ordering anything besides the washers?

pattim3 · February 2001

Hi Matt! FYI - just make sure your tires are cold when you check the pressure and follow the placard on the inside of the door for the appropriate pressures.

Thanks,

Patti

dnickel · February 2001

Took my 99 Forester in for 48Km service and dealer said I need a new gasket (can't remember which) because their was oil in the spark plugs. They only finished the 48km service and I am taking it back to get the gasket fixed under warranty. I pulled the rubber spark plug cap out on the one I could reach and it was indeed covered in oil. I couldn't easily get any other ones out. Does this sound right? has anyone had this problem? is it serious? What may cause this problem - I use 5w-50 synthetic oil - could this be a problem?

bassist · February 2001

I picked up 10 of these things for $5 at the dealer... Should last me for the next 100K miles :-)

ateixeira · February 2001

If you buy oil filters for $4 each, the drain plug gasket is free. That is, if you go OE.

Call Darlene for these, 800-287-1281.

henne: sounds like something is shorted out in the electricals. Definitely something for the dealer to look at.

inmotion: I'd also have a dealer look at your keyless. I believe Ken also had poor range, and they replaced part of it(?). Ken?

Dave: 18.5 mpg does sound low. I'd ask the dealer to check all the usual suspects (tire pressure, balance, alignment, O2 sensor, ECU, fuel flow, etc) to see if it could improve.

If it makes you feel any better, Edmunds' long-term Mazda Tribute is averaging 14 mpg. Their XTerra is getting 16mpg, and your Soob is quicker.

-juice

tlima · February 2001

My previous car, a Ford Probe GT had oil around the plugs starting around (40k miles). It was not a serious problem, in fact, I did nothing about it on mine, yet put 100k on before I sold it.

Engines go thru extreme temperatures, causing lots of expansion/contraction in the metal. Eventually, the seals fail. I don't think the synthetic oil did anything to cause this, although synthetics have been known cause leaks on older vehicles, mostly due to synthetic's ability to remove sludge in the engine.

Unless your losing lots of oil, I would'nt be too concerned about driving it until you can get the gasket replaced.

-Tony

hammersley · February 2001

In a nutshell: Dealer changes oil every 3k. Uses Kendall (Sunoco) 5w30. At about 1000 miles post-change, I'm down a quart. No evidence of leaking or burning anyhwere. Added a quart of Castrol 5w30 from my supply in the garage, and I use no more oil up to the next change 2000 miles later. It's happened twice now. Coincidence? Or can the flavor of oil affect consumption? If so, I guess Castrol gets the nod from now on - which is fine, I've always liked the stuff.

Cheers!
Paul

locke2c · February 2001

Oil around plugs = leaking down from cylinder head, probably past valve guide.

If oil can get into the combustion chamber, gas can escape. That means less compression and less power.

-Colin

bluesubie · February 2001

Good question. When I had oil changes done at the dealer, I occasionally added half a quart or so between oil changes (OBS).
Now that I do my own changes, I've never added oil and use Castrol Syntec Blend.
Techies???
Dennis

ateixeira · February 2001

Paul: given those are both dino oils, have the same viscosity, and currently meet SAE's SH standard, I kind of doubt they are that different.

My guess is the dealer either isn't putting in enough oil to begin with.

Still, piece of mind is priceless, so go with what you feel works.

-juice

sonnyb3 · February 2001

I have a 2001 Forester automatic and was just in the snow. It was about 2 inches and when I was under normal acceleration everything was fine. However, when I tried to push the car a little and accelerate faster than you normally would in the snow I heard the right side (probably rear ) make a bang sound and it felt like a kick under the car. I was able to duplicate it over and over. Was this the wheels slipping and then catching. Or was it the front wheels slipping and the rear wheels working. If so it was harldly a seamless transition from the front to rear. Info Please!!!

tlima · February 2001

I too have a Forester L Auto. Is yours an 'S' or an 'L', as S's have rear LSDs.

My L transitions power really smoothly - I've tried both on snow and wet leaves at speed and can feel the rear grab, but without any noise or jerk.

I don't think what you describe is normal, you should have it looked at.

-Tony

subearu · February 2001

Our '00 OB does this occasionally, though it doesn't bang - it's more subtle. I believe it's the rear LSD kicking in.

I think it's only happened a couple of times that I've noticed. Usually, it's on the really sloppy slushy snow stuff. I think it's has only happened during intial takeoffs.

I'll admit that first time it kicked in was wierd, since I hadn't had a vehicle with the rear LSD before. I just try to take it easy on the initial takeoffs now and don't notice the kick anymore.

-Brian

sonnyb3 · February 2001

My Forester is an S with the LSD. I was out again and was wondering about 693's experience. In fact I was only able to get the car to do it once since the snow was now packed down. The one time it did happen was in fact on a road that was kicking up more snow. How would the dealer even test this?? I would still love to hear others experience...

aakerson · February 2001

My son has a 1998 Forester 5 sp. At 38K miles, the clutch is shot -- almost total slippage. Alignment is needed both front and back, as are new tires. Battery also needs replacement.

Service manager, who's always been helpful and candid over the 5 1/2 years we have dealt with him said 5 sp. Foresters are prone to premature clutch deaths because they have a problem with the clutch springs. He also said Foresters are prone to losing their alignment easily.

My son is a conservative driver, unlike me, and only 38K for a clutch seems absurd. We have a great dealer who's going to help us out with the cost of these repairs, so no complaints, nly kudos for him and the way he's working with us. Any other Forester owners out there with similar early problems. Our family has been Subaru disciples for the last 5 1/2 years, with no real problems, but this comes like a wet towel in the face.

cptplt · February 2001

it may not have been adjusted properly or came out of position so even when the pedal is not depressed, you weren't totally disengaged, lost a clutch on an Integra that way some years ago at 20K!

locke2c · February 2001

Brian, is your Subaru an automatic too?

-Colin

theob · February 2001

The auto climate will allow you to run everything automatically or do a manual override on as many aspects of the climate control as you like. So if you put it in full auto and then punch the A/C button, it will then never turn on the A/C, until you change the mode setting. There's also an "Econ" mode for the A/C.

HTH,
Theo

logger2 · February 2001

aakerson: I've read lots about premature clutch wear on the 98 Forester and have experienced it myself - if the dealer will help with the cost that's great.

On another note - something that i've been wondering about. When i'm driving along in any gear above 2800 to 3000 rpm i notice a clicking noise coming from the shifter area. When i put my hand on the shifter and move it slightly, the noise stops. It seems to be some kind of vibration or something at higher rpms. Any ideas as to what this is?

Jason

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