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Nissan 300ZX, all models



  • cebtebcebteb Posts: 138
    Maybe the 280s had insufficient cooling, but my '85 300ZX Turbo, 5-speed, has the best coolant temperature control system of any vehicle I've owned past or present. I've blown up to the Eisenhower Tunnel (about 10,500 feet) at 75 mph and the temperature gauge needle never budged. Stays in the same place as when doing 55 mph in the flat lands.

    The only chronic problems with this model are electrical short gremlins and steering wheel vibration problems. If not abused, the engines will go over 200K miles w/o sipping a drop of oil.
  • There is a 1996 300ZX for $14,995 in my local paper. It normally list for $16,995 on the dealers internet site. I called and asked the dealer why it was cheaper in the paper. The salesperson (Susan) explained that it had been on the lot for a couple of weeks and it was just normal to lower the price to move it.

    I asked Susan who used to have the car and she told me it was a couple in their 40's and they had bought the car new in 96. They traded it for a 2003 350Z.

    Listed below are the details on the 300ZX:

    72,825 miles
    2 seater
    perfect interior
    perfect exterior
    Black leather interior
    Power Drivers seat
    Compact disc Bose stereo system
    Auto climate control

    Is this vehicle worth the $14,995?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,748
    What model is it? 2 dr, 2+2, turbo, or ???

    If it's a regular 2 dr. I'd say it's just retail pricing. Their $16.9K was over market so no wonder nobody bit. It might be "good" buy at $12,500 if it checks out really well. It's a complex car so you want to go over every nut and bolt here. But if you paid $15K it wouldn't be overpriced necessarily if it was a really sharp car--just no bargain. A retail sale.

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  • You must understand that the current price is just about as high as it goes for that car. Try to bring it as close to Private Party price (about low $13k) as you can. Otherwise, be prepared to lose about $3K the moment you drive it off the lot.

    My suggestion would be to bargain it down or find similar car through private party sources. Unless you can't get financing from other sources and in that case, you could be stuck.
  • jenny6jenny6 Posts: 4
    i have an 84 300zx with turbo. i've had the car for 3 years and it's always run like a dream. i have never had a problem with it. i replaced the oil a couple hundred miles before it was due...once a yr got brand new tires all the way around, ect. one day it wouldn't start so i jumped it. it flooded out really bad, shuttered, then died. ever since then it wouldn't start. i pulled out the fuel filter on it and when i blew in it there was gooey green stuff. my dad replaced the heads and sparkplugs. it still won't start. does anyone have any tips?
  • jrv01prjrv01pr Posts: 1
    Are there any techs in South Florida that specialize in older Z's, i.e 84AE Turbo?
  • jenny6jenny6 Posts: 4
    i have an 84 300zx with the turbo. I've had the car for 5 years. Nothing has ever gone wrong with it. I changed the oil 50 miles before it was due, new tires every 6 mnths, changed the fluids once a year. I went out to start it one day and it acted like it was flooded out, then died. Tried again and it wouldn't start. I pulled the fuel filter off, blew in it and there was a nasty gooey greenish black color that came out. replaced that, spark plugs, and the heads. the car still won't run. Does anyone know what might be wrong?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,748
    sounds like you need to inspect and/or drop the gas tank.

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  • jenny6jenny6 Posts: 4
    we tried that and it didnt' help any.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,748
    Well then for a no start you'll have to start a very logical "diagnostic tree" wherein you start from the basics and slowly eliminate each possibility.

    First you check compression. Then you check for spark. If there's spark , you check fuel delivery. If no spark, you check each component that delivers spark, starting at the back of the chain (battery--ignition switch--ignition module--coil or coil packs--wires---plugs). If no fuel, you do the same....fuel pump, pressur in fuel rail, noid light on injectors to check for injector pulse (and whatever fires the injector pulse on your car).

    And so it goes till you nail it.

    But it's important to start a "tree" on pad and paper and not to start guessingly wildly or you'll get lost as to what you did and didn't do.

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  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,600
    What's a good source of parts for '84-'88 300Z's?
  • jg7292jg7292 Posts: 1
    what you should do is check your airflow meter if it's deffective it will prevent your car from starting
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,748
    I'm sorry I had to delete that extremely large photo you posted as it was throwing the viewing page out of whack. You either have to limit the size of your photos, or better yet, why not open up your own "page" to post photos in our new "carspace"?

    Just go here and sign up. Through the "friends" feature, you can let anyone else on the board here know that you've got a page set up with photos of your car.



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  • skilman31skilman31 Posts: 5
    oh ya sorry about that i didnt think that it was going to turn out so big sorry about that man
  • cphoenixcphoenix Posts: 2
    is there any way to get any repair tips in this site? I have a 300zx and I just beggining to learn how to drive stick, im pretty good for a begginer since I made my research on how to. anyways, I have an 87 300zx, an idiot sold it to me real cheap but the problem is, it hasnt been taken care of like it should have been, the engine leaks oil, that it would be left dry, needs all differentkinds of fluid, I want to take care of whats causing it to leak so much does anyone have any idea? well I will take care of the air filter and the fluids and stuff, but since this car is old and was owned by a dumbass, would bringing this car back alive cost alot? I wanna get this thing moving for the time being so I can start going to work and stuff.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,748
    Well for an oil leak best thing is to wash or steam clean the engine, then get the car up safely on jack stands and crawl under there and have a look for the leak. Oil leaks can be simple or they can be very hard to fix. With a large leak like you seem to have, first thing I'd check is the oil filter.

    This isn't a car you'd want to put a lot of money into however, as they aren't worth all that much and probably never will be. So you have to keep your head about this and how far you want to get into it.

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  • cphoenixcphoenix Posts: 2
    I atleast want to get it started, because it wont start, this car has been "mojofied" the paint is screwed up, they put a confusin alarm system, when my bro and I removed it turning it on was easier, but here is another thing, when we try starting it there is no sound what so ever, the only thing that goes on is the "knight rider" looking speedometer, and the antenna goes up nothing seems to go one like the engine or anything, as this is a stick, my bro in law believes that the clutch may be having a prob. I atleast want it to start decently then sell it to get something else, I hate how I was set up to own it and no one seems to help, its like I need an actual expert to look at it, to get all the problems listed.
  • 300zx93300zx93 Posts: 1
    I recently became the owner of a beautiful 1993 300zx non turbo. There were no recorded problems on the CarFax report, and the previous owner swore on his life that it ran perfectly (I'm starting to think someone should run him over). BUT, these past 2 weeks, I've had repeated problems with the engine cutting out at consistently RANDOM times, RPMS, gears, weather, and inclines/declines. i've tried using the product "HEET" to remove any possible air/water pockets in the fuel line and simply, am out of ideas. I'm thinking it's an electrical problem, but like I said : i'm not sure. Please help as soon as you can, for this is my daily freeway driver and I won't feel comfortable driving it to work and school until this problem is fixed.
  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,687
    These engines are known for clogged injectors. My '95 NA was starting to develop the issue just a little around the time I sold it. It would occasionally cut out as I was coasting to a stop light with the clutch it.

    Based on your description, I am not sure if this is your problem or not. Does it restart easily after it cuts out? Is it a very sudden problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,748
    Sounds like a small thing (good news) that might be hard to track down (bad news).

    Given the random nature one might expect an electrical glitch. You could try a simple test and run your engine at night and look to see if there is spark leakage from your spark plug wires.

    Otherwise, you might get the engine scanned to see if anything turns up. Possibly you'd have to get a mechanic to just tighten and clean all vital electrical connections. You might get lucky.

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  • zgirlzgirl Posts: 3
    Hey there, I'm having a problem with my 91 Z, she's running hot, & when you turn on the air, the temp gauge goes to 3/4 & won't cool down. I've changed the thermostat, had the radiator flushed, also a new fan/clutch....any other ideas? There are no good mechanics around with the Z-touch. Z-Girl
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,748
    Sometimes a radiator flush doesn't do much good, if the radiator is clogged up from many years of use.

    I don't recall on this car---is there an auxiliary electric cooling fan that is supposed to cut in with the AC on, in addition to the regular fan?

    You know, 3/4 on the guage isn't necessarily a bad thing, as long as the car isn't overheating. Engines like to run on the hot side.

    Also have you replaced your radiator cap? Any leak in pressure will drop the boiling point of water/coolant.

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  • zgirlzgirl Posts: 3
    The flush was discussed last nite. I was told if they didn't do the flush thru the engine, bottom up, something may be stuck in there..... the guy who did it... I don't know......thought of bringing it in to an express place, they do a complete flush for $65.00
    Yes there is an auxiliary fan for the a/c, it comes on & works. And now you mention it, the flusher guy did replace the cap. But running at 3/4, it smells like it's hot, it's close to an overheat... that's just too hot, & why after 6 summers did it run at 3/8 & now it's up there? I know they like to run hotter, but really, that it too hot. Ok, I just had it out & about for 1/2 with the air on, it's at 3/8 ! This doesn't make sense.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,748
    There may be a procedure for filling the radiator to prevent air pockets in the coolant. Some cars are pretty touchy about this.

    As for the radiator, often they must be taken out and cleaned chemically or replaced. I think a radiator shop could flow test it and then you have a definitive answer.

    Generally speaking, if you overheat while at idle, it's an air circulation problem and if you overheat as you drive, it's a water circulation problem.

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  • zgirlzgirl Posts: 3
    Got it. I'll make an appointment at a radiator place. As for an idle, it can sit for an hour with the air on, & it doesn't move. Get on the highway & it's touchy. Like I said, I just cruised down the country roads doing 80 with the air on & it's perfect. One thing I question is that it is hot today, 87, as it was yesterday, but it's not humid today.... my old 97 Nissan Pulsar was touchy on damp & humid days... just weird stuff. That one went bye-bye last year with 240,000 miles still running strong, but the suspension had many hairline cracks, it was time to take it off the highway! Thanks for your help. I'll check back in next week after I get a REAL flush!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,748
    Okay then, it's a coolant circulation problem definitely. New fan clutch was a waste of money and a bad that mechanic.

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  • skilman31skilman31 Posts: 5
    When i start my car it seems to have trouble u have to press the gas just to get it not to stall and then it takes around 2 min of driving till it is totally warmed up and it has been eating gas like crazy i am getting around 18 miles to the gallon it also seems like my turbo isn't kicking in like it use to be anyone have any suggestions on what i should do ? oh and i have a 1984 300zx with a turbo ! Thanks
  • I am having a similar problem, and was curious if you found the problem. So far the alternator has been replaced, the fuel system checks out the injector signal checks out, replaced the air flow meter, no change, the car runs for about 15 minutes and then dies and refuses to restart.
  • skilman31skilman31 Posts: 5
    Well have u checked ur computer to see if it is giving out any codes ? I know that mine insnt and that is the prob. I think it might be electrical or at least for u it sounds like it one think to check is the fuel pressure regulator that controlls weather it can run after long periods of time and temps and sutch but also when my car first ran like that it was the comp was in dionostic mode so that made it so that it didnt want to run at all so check that plus like i said see if it is giving out any codes from the comp !
  • Hello,
    I have a 1991 300zx N/A. my engine is bad and needs to be replaced so imp thinking of installing a twin turbo engine and trans from another 300zxtt.
    Can I do that? And if I can I want to install a bigger turbo any advice or recommendations???

    Thanks for helping.
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