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Comments
My biggest problems are minor: rear a/c vents break easily when kids hit them with their feet, poor headlight visibility, sloshing gas tank noise. I also have found it difficult to retrieve dropped items between the drivers seat and the center console.
Was the weld at the top of the strut tower? I will presume that they will remove the strut for the weld. An alignment should have also been required after such a repair.
At first, I thought the raised left foot resting pad was a smart idea. But now after 3 months of ownership, the carpet is showing wear. The floor mat doesn't protect that part of the floor. I ended up getting a thin vinyl floormat and putting it under the carpeted mat extending it over the raised pad. It seems to be working fine.
Oh well, can't have everything I guess.
I'm still waiting on the factory rep. appointment they said he should be in at the beginning of May; any day now. Will definately try to see the rep with an almost empty tank-just in case he wants to suggest sloshing gas. Unless ther is some heavy object sloshing around in there with the gas. I know us NY'ers are always in a hurry and drive a little more aggressively than most, but this thump or thud is hard to miss even at moderate speeds. Drive at speeds between 10-40mph hit the breaks deliberately-then release-you can miss it. It feels as though something hit the car. I personnaly think there is something in the drive line reloading and causing this sound as you release the brake. Hope they figure it out/or admit what it is.
__________________
"The noise is definitely there. This owner could never resell or trade in this vehicle as no one will accept it with that noise. Refund his money." They found the correction 2 years later.
Follow it closely and if no help is awarded by Honda, run, dont walk to the Better Business Bureau. Just have to have the dealer try 3 times to correct the problem to file a claim. I have a Pilot but have not used it as it was delivered while I was away. It is in a different state and will not be there till the end of this month. I will then post the quirks I find. Will also act promptly if no corrections are made.
Thanks in advance.
Head gaskets go all the time on cars and don't cause any permanent damage. I can't really think why a leaking head gasket would be related to "ticking," though. But I've never had a gasket go bad on one of these here new-fangled vehicles.
Now, that being said, I do know if valves were bent when the timing belt went, there is a good possibility that the tops of the pistons also got chewed up a bit. I would have expected to have those replaced as well. Sure, if it was a case where it was your money, then you could live with dinged pistons to save the big bucks it would cost to replace them. BUT, since this is all warrantied and was caused by a manufacturing defect, then I would want all that replaced.
just thought of something on that ticking. Did they say coolant was getting into the oil? I could see that causing a ticking problem because you'd probably be hearing the valves rattling due to poor lubrication.
Oh, and the next time your engine is ticking, do NOT wait 2 months to take it in!
Personally, I'd be talking to the dealer about getting a new engine. The timing belt problem is well documented and caused many failures. There is no reason why you shouldn't be completely satisfied and comfortable with your new vehicle. If they don't want to fight for you, then call Honda yourself or take it to another dealer. Hell, the dealer gets paid for their time by the factory, so I don't see why they wouldn't want to appease you.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Sorry for the bad news.
By the way it ticks because it is no longer sealing so you hear the ticking.
This subject has recently come up over in the "ask dealer a question" (or something like that). You should post this over there, too. Zeus handles these cases all the time. He'd be able to tell you right away. But I'm pretty damned sure you are fine and they are just blowing smoke and trying to scare you into signing a new contract.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Grand High Poobah
The Fraternal Order of Procrastinators
Try cracking open the front window. Eleviates the pressure somewhat.
That's the same problem with the CR-V. Honda knows ---- Honda don't care
(1)Has anyone else had this problem ?
(2)Is the fuel tank in the Pilot the same one used in the Odyssey ? ( this was recalled )
(3)Is the manufacturer of the Odyssey tank the same manufacturer of the Pilot fuel tank?
(4)How could one check the part numbers of Odyssey fuel tank against the Pilot tank. Would those part numbers be the same or similar if is a shared tank?
My feeling is there are manufacturer's defects in the construction of the tank similar or same as Odyssey.
All comments are welcome.
Has anybody experienced a whistling noise from the air vents? This only occurs when you switch the a/c from outside air to interior air. I have tried 2 dealerships over the course of a week and a half and neither can solve the problem. They also placed 100 miles on the odometer trying to diagnose the problem.
Thanks in advance for the help.
When I move the drive shaft vertically, there is a little play, but no noise. When I shake it laterally, in and out of the diff, it makes the noise that I think I'm hearing while driving. The passenger side drive shaft has no play and makes no noise.
I shot a little video clip to try and capture the sound from my sloppy drive shaft. Follow this link and turn up your audio all the way, unfortunately you'll have to register to view (it's free):
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291118853&code=3967601- &mode=invite
There is a chance that your noise is coming from a defect in the upper shock mount. This has happened to several Pilots, always on the rear passenger side.
Since we can't post links to competing web forums, I'll quote a good message that sums up this noise from a Honda-Pilot board that has a few hundred posts regarding this noise in the rear passenger suspension area (it's a .org if you're looking):
from BPilot,
"My humble opinion
I am now 99.2% sure that my rear suspension noise is (was) due to a defect in the design of the upper shock absorber brackets. I will post a picture, later tonight, illustrating a modification made to my Pilot. This modification resulted in at least an 80% reduction in the sound intensity and occurance rate. It also reduced it from a two cycle sound to one. At this point, it is no longer a concern. The modification is temporary and was done for testing. I will continue to drive it in this state until the permanent fix is in place. The modification involved bending the outside and upper shock mount bracket up and out of the way. In this state, the shock bolt goes directly into the shock and clamps the shock to the inner bracket. For me, this confirms the bracket as the source of the problem. These brackets are stamped steel and are spot welded to the vehicle frame. This is a cost effective way to produce and install the brackets, but leaves room for problems. The unibody frame rail has a recess that makes room for the inner bracket. During assembly, the inner and outer brackets are spot welded to the frame all in one step. The fit is extremely tight where the inner bracket fits into the frame recess. I believe the steel is flexing and that along with possibe metal to metal contact in the upper and out of sight regions of the bracket, noise is produced. The outter bracket is actually welded to the inner one and there are numerous possibilities for flexing and contact. The Steelman listening devise clearly indicated that the shock bolt and mounts were the epicenters of the noise production. There are other confirmations. Removing the shock eliminates the noise. Three different shocks were tried with no impact on the sound. The bracket modification provided the results I was seeking. I am working with a quality technician at my dealer to achieve a long term repair consistent with the intended design of the bracket area. He has been in contact with Honda and they acknowedged the noise, but had not solved it. They appeared to be interested in working with me to reach a long term solution. I hope this is not premature optimism. In in any event, I am now a happy owner of a Pilot that is very close to meeting my expectations. I actually enjoy driving it now. After reviewing the hours, cuts, and pain incurred in reaching this point, I wonder if I should not have taken ablatt's course, only months ago. He'll fill you in. More later BPILOT"
Thanks again
Dave
Thanks
eswanborg at mac dot com
Any thoughts on this?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The random auto locking for me is happening after the key is in the ignition, the motor is running usually if I recall.