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Dodge Ram
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Comments
That's a 1000 series transmission, not a 100 series. *Duh*
Update:
I decided to give my salesman, Jay, a call last night. The sales department was unaware that I was having problems, since I hadn't let them know. He was very understanding and sympathetic. He put me through to the assistant sales manager, Mike, who said they would arrange for a rental car for me when I drop off the truck to have the handle replaced. A little while later the general manager, Jim, called me, also very apologetic for the crummy job done at the service department, and he promised that the rental car would be at my disposal for as long as it took to repair the door. Not long after that, the service dept. manager called me, and he must have gotten reamed by the sales department, because his tone was much different than it was when I called him the first time. Hopefully, this will be the end of this problem.
I'd still like to have those phone numbers and info handy in case this isn't fixed to my satisfaction. I often have a full load of passengers, usually teenagers, riding in that back seat, and I'd like to be sure that the doors were working properly. Also, since the truck is leased, I don't want to be held responsible for any damage that wasn't my fault.
Yes, the Ram is supposed to be getting the 1000. Allison doesn't make a 6 speed that would fit the Ram's chassis without extensive modification. The 1000 was intended for these very classes (light-medium duty). In fact, GM has already announced they are building a second plant fpor the 1000 to meet "previously unanticipated strong demand" for the 1000. Considering Dodge sells over 80,000 Cummins-powered Rams a year, that could easily translate to 50,000 Allison 1000s, plus repair spares annually.
I have not heard any prices, but previous rumors have stated a major premium over the cost of the current 47RE automatic.
My problem: Clutch chatter starting out in second gear. Also when downshifting to 2nd gear. The dealer put in a new clutch the first time I complained. The second time, they put in a new flywheel too. (Buy the way, I don't start out in 2nd when towing) What gives? Does anyone else have this problem, or is it normal for a diesel with manuel tranny? Should I live with it? Should I start thinking lemon law? Any comments would be appreciated...Thanks
- Is it worth the expense ($795 for kit + installation $)?
- Will it void the 100K engine warranty?
- Any unforeseen problems with the E-Brake.
Any advise would be much appreciated.
I'm scheduled to drop my truck off tonight so they can fix the door tomorrow. They are supposed to have a rental car ready for me (I hope it's a New Beetle - they're also a Volkswagon dealer). I'm keeping track of everything, including phone conversations and time lost. Hopefully, this will be the end of it. I am, however, filing the info you gave me along with all the other related paperwork, just in case this is NOT the end of it. Thanks again, and I'll let you know what happens.
right. I have a 99 Quad/Cummins/3.56 gear w/8000 mi. and tow a 7000# trailer. I noticed my transmission down and up shifting rapidly when climbing long grades at certain trottle positions.
Dodge says its the torque converter shifting in and out. They said to either back off or floor it.
If I back off that means 40-42 mph on the hills and the Fords are passing me or floor it and get that rise in rpms and do 47-50, more like it!
My question is this normal? Am I doing the right
thing by flooring it and unlocking the torque
converter to gain speed? Help?
I should mention I drive the Northwest and grade
6 to 9 percent 5 to 8 mi. long and climbing to
400o to 7000 feet.
Thanks for any suggestions you have!
Hunter
http://community.webtv.net/dp2000/TRUCKFORCEACTION
ps thanks Ladyblue & kcram
the service manager. They put the truck on the front end alignment machine and
found the toe in was quite a bit out of spec and the the cassster on one wheel was
way out. ( I watched them this time, so I know the work was done.) The truck
handles much better now. Still a bit more "loose" than I prefer, but it's better than it
was.
I traveled in some rolling hills, not very steep, but it constantly shifted not only out of lockup but out of overdrive and even lower at times, kicked the rpm's way up.
Or is there a way to modify shift patterns?
I am shifting out of OD before I start climbing the hills. The Rapid shifting happens when I lose
speed to about 42 mph. so I have been flooring it
to get past that trottle position and gain speed.
Do you think I have problem with my trans?
Am I doing something wrong? Should I back out of it and be happy at 40 MPH?
Thanks for your help.
Hunter
Considering the grade, you may have to stick with 40. Sounds almost like your trans is possibly thinking about second gear, and that's why the torque converter is unlocking (in order to make the downshift).
If I read your response to Hunter correctly, I would guess a gain of approximately 100-150 RPM if I keep it out of OD, which I assume is 5th. What do you get? You probably know what's on my mind here... wanna take a stab at it?
thanks,
rk
rk
You have the 46RE transmission, and behind the 360 (5.9L V8) is ok in a 1500, but years ago was suffering failures in 2500s and 3500s with the same engine. These problems were addressed, and as long as you service the trans regualrly, you should have no problems at all.
rk and hunter,
Everybody still has 4 speeds, so OD is still 4th; the 5 speed Allison automatic isn't available... yet. 40mph on stock tires and a 3.54 axle breaks out this way with the 47RE:
2nd gear - 2320 rpm
3rd - 1610 rpm
4th (OD) - 1100 rpm <--obviously lugging the engine.
Third gear is definitely the best choice, as 1600 rpm is listed as this engine's most fuel-efficient speed, and with a load, I can see the computer wanting a request to second gear, which would increase both horsepower and torque considering the load of a trailer.
As far as going with a 4.10, it could be what you need if you tow frequently and are always in the hills. In that case, your rpm at 40 would be:
2nd gear - 2675 rpm
3rd - 1875 rpm
4th (OD) - 1275 rpm
It's definitely a seat of the pants feel. Obviously rk is more comfortable with higher rpms and some extra horses under conditions that I feel my 3.54 is just fine. We respectfully disagree with each other there, and that's not a problem. The reason manufacturers offer the talles ratio as standard is to appease the "compromise" buyer - the one who wants the grunt of that diesel or big-block gas engine, but would like to stay out of the corner Exxon station more than every other day.
And I have to be diplomatic I work here!
We have run into several highway situations of 4 lane highways having a long (3 - 4 miles) grade that I don't consider steep, but steady. With the Leer Hard Tonneau cover, assessories, and tools and junk normally carried in my truck, I'm hauling about 600 lbs in the back. When the posted speeds are 65, I run about 73 - 74 mph, and at that speed, I'm pulling about 2000 RPM, if I remember correctly. I distinctly remember having my foot almost to the floor to maintain this speed. It would keep this speed, but only barely. If I dropped to 65 mph, the RPM's would follow, and the truck would not maintain this speed. I'm pretty sure the RPM difference was just enough to boost me a little higher into the HP curve, and provide the needed power. I could see why the additional 200 - 300 RPM would be advantageous for even a relatively empty truck such as ours. I'm developing a "feel" for this truck, as I have for my others, and I am of the opinion currently that the 2100 - 2500 RPM range is where you need to be
to maximize the power available on the Cummins. After all, with the 47RE, you only have 215 hp to play with, which isn't a whole lot considering the size of the truck. I will agree on the best mileage RPM's, I have seen this as well.
see 'ya,
rk
Kc, what do you mean by fuel saving rpm? is that the printed most "efficient" from Dodge? Under a heavy load, an engine is usually most efficient at the rpm that is peak torque.
Another note, the higher gear ratios don't always translate to better gas mileage. I know figures on a lot of 4x4 Chevy's with the 3.08 rear, those trucks got terrible mileage cuz the gear was so high with the extra weight of the 4x4. the same truck with a 3.73 would get much better mileage.
It all depends on how the dodge engine torque curve is mated with the tranny ratios. Example: in the chevy's, the 3.73 rear seems to get the best mileage in the C/K trucks, no matter what engine. usually same mileage and better power than the same truck with a 3.42 or 3.08.
Actually, that figure of 1600 rpm is from Cummins, when the 5.9 is used as a diesel generator. By no coincidence, that is the torque peak rpm. My Memorial Day weekend road run through the mountains of northwest NJ and central NY yielded 24.3 mpg with the cruise control set at 57mph, which translated to 1600 rpm. Not bad for a 3500 4x4.
By the way, rk - I have 420 lb-ft as well, but just 180 hp. You'd never know it by my throttle response. I must have gotten a good one off the assembly line. This engine is well-known for producing more power and torque than the published numbers - many magazine tests have shown rear wheel hp and torque higher than what the published flyheel numbers say.
problem. Dodge and other Cummins owners have told
to put it to the floor going up the hills. Just before it hits the floor I notice the torque converter unlocking and the rpm jumps about 400rpm
and then I can maintain 48-50 or higher at 2500 to 2800 rpms. Will unlocking the torque converter
and pulling cause to much stress on the transmission? I just hate it when those Fords pulling same size trailers fly past me on Mt.Hood.
Ha!
Hunter
Thank you in advance!!!
I want to order one in a couple of weeks and i am not sure if i should spend the extra money and get tho v10. I dont have any plans for towing, I just want the best overall quality.
It appears several people in this topic are experiencing steering problems. I had to take my 99 Ram 1500 4X4 back for steering problems, too. The truck has the larger size Wrangler tires (can't remember exact size) and would wander all over the road. Ontario Dodge folks (Ontario, CA) took care of the problem. They found the alignment was out of spec, especially the caster, and they swapped tires around. Now the truck drives great. I am experimenting with tire pressure to see if I can reduce the bouncing on these beatup CA freeways that I drive on so often. Right now I am 2PSI below factory recommendation. No great improvement yet.
cc1
My RAM has the 5.9L V8 with the 3.50 rear axle. I have nearly 8000 miles on it and have never gotten over 13.2MPG. Maybe because I find it so difficult to keep this buggy much under 75, it just drives so easy. Anyway, I changed to a MagnaFlow muffler recently, keeping the single exhaust, mainly for the improved sounds (it's a macho thing) and got an added benefit of improved gas mileage - up now to 14.5MPG.
Following up my own post #520 about the intermittent A/C problem I was having, the same dealer kept it for two days before they were able to duplicate the problem. Service manager said the low pressure sensor was defective. Things are great now and the A/C keeps my Black RAM cool just like I like it.
LADYBLUE-
Sure hope you got your door problems fixed. You got a lot of good fighting advice from several people. A concerned dealer should never let such a obvious problem get out of hand like that. What's the latest status?
GASHOG
Thanks to rlkrueger, kcram and all my other Ram buddies who've helped so much. Town Hall has been like striking gold - the information and support is priceless.
A side note: The rental car they gave me while my truck was being fixed was a Dodge Neon. Now, I've been driving trucks for 10 years, and this was like a roller skate with doors! After two days of that, I don't know if I'll ever be able to own a small car again. :-)
The truck probably uses a Flash EProm which is a programmable chip that stores the software you need. Just a guess...
thx.......heidi8
I'm assuming you're shopping for a 2500. All Ram transfer cases are shift-on-the-fly. The DHG option is simply the heavy duty transfer case option (over the standard light-duty unit). If you're getting the Cummins, the V10, and/or the towing packages, order the HD transfer case. It comes included with the snow plow package, to give you an idea of what kind of abuse the HD case can handle.
Thanks
Eric
Update, I picked up the truck this afternoon and the dealer replaced the rear drums they were warped. Truck run great!
Stoker sends...............
Its fantastic seeing the community effort that goes on to helping others and resolving questions or concerns at this page. I am here because it is time for me to purchase a new truck. I love all the features and the appearance of the Ram. I would like to order a 2000 Quad cab 2-wd with the 5.2L when I positively know of any changes are being made.
I stopped in one dealer the other night to pick the salesman's brain to see if he heard of any changes. After a couple of minutes, the guy literally walked away from me to some other customers because he knew he wasn't going to make a sale that night. I hope this is not a sign of things to come. Friends tell me to stay away from Dodge. I am banking on Dodge to have tweaked this truck to death with it now in its 7 th production year.
This would be my first venture away from Chevy. My current S-10 4.3L, which I bought new in '89, has 180,000 miles. It has been unbelievably reliable. The engine and trans. have been, and remain sound, its just that paint wont stay on the truck. Its bubbled up and GM stripped the entire truck down to bare metal and repainted it five years ago for the paint starting to flake off. I see S-10s all over the road with the same problem. The winters and the road salt can be quite nasty in the Mid-west.
I am interested in the Intense (light) Blue. I few weeks back I saw an older Ram(97' or older) with the dark blue flaking off like crazy. I know they did not offer a dark blue in '99. Could they have discontinued that color for such a reason? Anybody have good or bad luck with Ram paint and corrosion protection? Your help will be quite valuable.
I love driving the truck and towing, but recently I have noticed the handling has been noticeable different and after a visit to my favorite alingment shop I learned that that track bar ball joint has worn out,$300.00 to fix. I am wanting to contact Dodge about the problem and am wondering if any other people have the same problem. I need a little ammo. I have spoke with the dealer parts dept. and was told they sell a lot of the track bars. This is not under warranty
I have a 1997 Dodge Ram SS/T with all the options. It has been in for service about 25 times in 26 months. They still have not fixed all of the problems! The most recent was they replaced my steering column. It was popping and binding when I turned. There has been a TSB out on this problem since about 1995. I have a friend with a 1999 model, he had the same problem at 425miles. Mine waited until 32,000. DODGE DOESN'T BELIEVE IN FIXING THEIR PROBLEMS. THEY JUST CARRY IT OVER INTO THE NEXT YEAR. DON'T CALL CUSTOMER SUPPORT FOR ANYTHING. ALL THEY DO IS TELL YOU TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER AND LET THEM TRY AGAIN. MY NEXT TRUCK WILL BE A 2000 GMC SIERRA SLE!!!
I CALL MY TRUCK THE $26,000 P.O.S!! (I only had to pay $22,300)Now I know why!!
I STILL BELIEVE DODGE MAKES THE BEST LOOKING TRUCK ON THE MARKET, BUT IF ITS IN THE SHOP ALL THE TIME WHAT'S THE POINT!!!
It chips easier than any other vehicle I have owned. It had 4 runs in it when it was new. The rear bumper has been repainted due to rust forming under the paint. The rust is coming back again! When I complain about the chipping they tell me that it is normal. When I tell them my 1994 Honda Civic with 88,000 miles has less chips than my 18,000 mile dodge, they don't know what to say! My truck now has 32,xxx miles on it and it is headed out the door within the next 6 months.
I'm finalizing up a deal on a 99 Quad Cab 4X4 and I have a question on the rebate.
The salesman is telling me if I pay cash or do my own financing, Dodge will send me the $1000 rebate.
I was under the impression after reading Edmunds that I could just lop this $1000 off the price.
By taking the $1000 of the purchase price, I save about $85 in sales tax.
What am I missing here?
Thanks,
Rake14
It depends on your state as to how rebates are applied. Most states allow rebates to be applied as you suspect, but there are some who don't treat them that way. Check with your state's department of taxation - if you can apply a rebate immediately and reduce the cost and tax, bring that to the sales rep's attention. if he still balks, ask for a manager.
I have the 99 Ram in Intense Blue, and the paint is definitely "delicate." I've had some chips from stones, and when I installed mud flaps, they started to wear away the paint wherever they made contact. Just my observation.
I agree. Those LT 245/75R16 tires from the factory do look small. I would also like to know the largest tire I can put on this rig without any other changes. I usually run about 1000 rpm the last 1/2 mile to the house because I have a hard time letting the Cummins idle 2-3 minutes prior to shutdown. I would also like to know how important this idle time is since this is my first Diesel.
what rear gears would be best for that weight. i live in the mid-west.
thx.