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the coverage is not close to bump-bump. there is also a 250 deductible per problem so if your brakes and a/c have a problem at the same time, they will each be subj to the 250 deductible. the cost, while it may seem cheap at 60/yr will cost you 420 over the 7yrs. i'd just as soon buy the hondacare for 300 more. if i make one claim over the 7yr, i breakeven. geico mbi is meant to protect vs major repairs and i think is a good option on higher end/exp to repair(read mb, bmw, audi, saab) cars where ext warrty is very expensive and none are offered by the mfrs themselves.
either way, the only point i wanted to make was the VERY big difference between hondacare and geico mbi. i've had several dealings with geico on an audi i owned for 6yrs and it is a pain... they make you get a diagnosis and you must pay that... if the problem is "not covered", then you're out of luck and you pay. i had an instrument cluster that went bad - replacement was 800 for part alone.... bad pixels giving it a blotchy appearance. i wouldn't have fixed it if not for the warranty. so i had to take a gamble for the 200 in diagnosis cost to see if it was covered. as it turned out, they did cover it but it always makes me uneasy when geico says things like it "should" be covered but should they find some odd causes, they can opt out.
if you're gonna get ew, get the hondacare. the payup in my view is minimal, the coverage can't even be compared. just my 2 cents.
Is this true? I see no language in the contract about the AT PURCHASE requirement. In fact the contract looks exactly the same as the one at Sacucci's. Can I cancel and buy coverage from Sacucci's or elsewhere? Has anyone had experience in this?
This does leave a bit of a sour taste to our experience after all - goes to show that you have to be fully prepared in EVERY aspect when buying a car. Even if I can't cancel and re-buy from Sacucci's or elsewhere - I will cancel on principle instead...
Read all paper work and see if the dealer managed to tie the 0.24% APR ded. to your Honda Care purchase.
If it is tied, ask them to cancel it and if they want raise the APR by 0.24%.
If not, simply cancel the Honda Care (you can do it any time in the first 60 days with no charge).
If you do not like to hear the arguments of the dealer, do it in writing and send it in mail with delivery confirmation. They will have to honor it.
If you took Honda finace deal, why cancel? The dealer has nothing to do with that.
FYI, I cancelled my Honda Care for my 3 week old CR-V and I am buying it from an online dealer (Sacucci Honda) for much lower price. I had no trouble with my dealer.
BTW, if you are unhappy with the dealer, give appropriate feedback to Honda (when they call you). You too can call them and complain (I did that 4 years back after my Accord purchase).
Good luck
I tried to get a quote thru Sacucci's but I got the following message. "Where sorry but due to Florida law, Florida Residents are not eligible for online service contracts. Please contact your local dealer."
As mentioned above, the program from the dealer doesn't sound like a good option.
Can anyone suggest an alternate source for pricing and purchase of the Honda Care warranty for a vehicle located in Florida? Thanks in advance for your consideration.
I agree with you as you can see by my previous post...BUT...the Florida price of an OEM warranty is almost always a lot HIGHER than can be purchased for in other States. Sometimes a lot HIGHER. There is NO competition and this means a FIXED price.
That's wonderful: the FL legislature (and lobbyists) set it up so everyone pays more (more profit for dealers and insurance company for policy) and you think that's a benefit for protecting people?!!!!
That's like Verizon justifying their price in increase on call-waiting and some other service as a way to help them be more competitive with TimeWarner who has lower prices and is taking away their phone business rapidly in this area!!! Raise prices to help yourself compete against lower costs?!!!!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
We showed the dealer this pricing and he agreed to match it.
Most Honda Accords do not need 3,000 or even $500 worth of warrantable repairs between 36,000 miles and 100,000 miles and the risk is even less now that the powertrain is covered by the new 5 year factory warranty.
I might buy one if I got a bargain price and was likely to sell to a private party in 5 or 6 years rather than trade the car in.
Maybe I would get a couple hundred dollars of covered claims plus a couple hundred dollars extra resale value to a private party that would make the cost of the warranty easier to justify assuming I got a bargain price on the warranty to begin with.
tidester, host
Anyway, I read his pricing now (as of 7/15/2006), and they are about $25~$50 below bernardi/Saccucci. His original post is below, and the forum I copied from is
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=b351fd1f3a182380f581c75829be42fa&- threadid=5414&perpage=15&highlight=&pagenumber=30
Hope this is helpful for others here.
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Hondacareguy- Tom Brown Mike Pruitt Honda
tbrown@mphonda.com
Not only do you get the best price but we ship you the paperwork next day!! These prices are good on a 2006 Odyssey with less than 6,000 miles. We did have a slight price increase and the following prices are correct as of 7/15/06.
Plan Code: D56 5yr 60k wrap $0 ded $380.00
Plan Code: D58 5yr 80k $0 ded $600.00
Plan Code: D50 5yr 100k $0 ded $705.00
Plan Code: D68 6yr 80k $0 ded $675.00
Plan Code: D60 6yr 100k $0 ded $880.00
Plan Code: D62 6yr 120k $0 ded $980.00
Plan Code: D78 7yr 80k $0 ded $765.00
Plan Code: D70 7yr 100k $0 ded $1070.00
Plan Code: D72 7yr 120k $0 ded $1170.00
Plan Code: D80 8yr 100k $0 ded $ 1150.00
Plan Code: D82 8yr 120k $0 ded $1250.00
I will overnight via DHL and pay your return postage with instructions on how to complete the paperwork. We of course also sell new Hondas and will ship to you anywhere in the USA!! Please contact our Internet Department for details.
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I just purchased a Hondacare z58 EW plan from the fellow at Mike Pruitt mentioned previously..I also bought my Pilot from them 2 years ago (and I live in MA).
I learned that the best pricing on Hondacare plans are available if your car has less than 30k miles on it.
My plan is 6years/84k miles FROM NOW! with zero deductible and covers most non-regular wear-out including my factory DVD player. I paid $1,230 (no tax) and that was a little less than Bernardi and Sacucci (sp), and a lot less than others..I understand the arguements about honda's costing nothing in repairs, but the low EW price, no deductibles, and coverage for 6 more years and up to 110k miles FROM HONDA was too attractive to pass up..The Ext Warr is also transferrable to a future buyer if I sell the car..I recommend Pruit Honda and this warranty
Here is the question. The condensor is on backorder. and we are without the vehicle. Will the warranty cover reimbursement when waiting for parts. Reimbursement is covered on our warranty.
I talked to the finance dept at a dealer in AL, where I'm looking to purchase the car, and he said it wouldn't be an issue for me to buy an extended warranty through them even though i'm a florida resident....he said they do it all the time, which would make sense being that they're close to the border. Does anyone have clarification on this?...When does that extended warranty restriction on FL residents apply??
Thanks
Thanks,
Is this worth it?
See their email to me:
Wear and tear protection is the highest level of coverage one can purchase. Warranty Direct provides coverage for parts that break as well as those that wear out. It is a much broader level of coverage than the mechanical breakdown only plans offered elsewhere. All Warranty Direct plans include coverage for wear-and-tear failures.
Many extended warranties exclude repairs needed due to "wear and tear." A large number of car repairs are needed because a part wears out from a long period of use, not because it was poorly built.
Many extended warranties define "mechanical breakdown" as a defect in parts and workmanship as supplied by the manufacturer, or a defect that makes the part unable to perform the function for which it was designed. Often, they will state that the gradual reduction in operating performance (wear-and-tear) is not covered. Service contracts that exclude wear and tear will not cover repairs needed because a part’s performance has gradually deteriorated because of normal wear and tear, unless a mechanical breakdown has occurred.
The more miles on a car when a repair becomes necessary, the more likely it is that the repair will be needed because a part wore out, rather than because the part broke due to poor manufacturing. Again, many extended warranties do not cover parts that wear out.
Before buying an extended warranty, you should carefully review what is covered and not covered to see whether wear and tear claims are excluded from coverage. That way, if it is not clear whether a repair is needed due to a manufacturing defect or simple wear and tear, it is more likely that the service contract company will pay for the repair. It is a mistake to assume that a repair agreement will cover every repair your car may need.
Thanks
This is so simple but you're getting confused by the fast talking AL dealer who wants more profit. I'll try to reduce the confusion or at least have you sink deeper into the out of state warranty preponderance before making a decision.
Keeping the AL tags & title is the only way the AL dealer can sell you a warranty good in any state but FL (49 at last count). You must then only get EW service outside of FL and using an AL address. This saves you a couple of hundred bucks over the EW term, big deal. Out of state servicing could also be a major pain unless you live near the border. Note that a FL lender will require FL vehicle registration for folks that reside in FL-- strange but true. The AL dealer should collect sales tax at a rate that applies to where you live (Probably Escambia/Santa Rosa/Okaloosa/Walton/Bay/Washington FL counties that border AL). Change to a FL title later and you'll have to pay FL tax again even though you paid AL tax at initial purchase-- cha-ching! Transferring the title to FL voids your 49 state warranty though--oops. You could get credit for the unused portion of the EW and have to buy it again in FL prices that are registered with the FL insurance commish (same price for identical coverage regardless of FL location). Darn, back to square one, it appears there are no loopholes
Keeping AL plates means looking like a tourist so I'll apologize now for not letting you in line despite having your turn signal on at the last minute as a public confession of idiocy, LOL.
Keeping AL plates also means you'd be breaking other FL 'domicile' laws like those that require you title a vehicle in FL if you reside here, are employed in FL, hold a FL drivers license, yadda-yadda.
Just because this dealer does this all the time doesn't make it right or even legal. As said so many times before, "Let your conscience be your guide."
The take-away here regarding FL EW's is the state the vehicle is titled in and the EW warranty must match.
Best of luck.
Ask for a copy of each contract and read them thoroughly to compare. Before you buy either.
You're better off saving your money for a rainy day than buying a service contract, but if you must, buy a manufacturer-backed one. Most people who buy service contracts do not see a return of their money, let alone make a profit. If your transmission or engine craps out, you might have 'won' this lottery, but it's still a hassle to get big claims approved and paid. In the case of an engine or trans failure, you'll have to prove you took good care of your car. (keep your records)
Most people don't even keep their cars long enough to merit buying one.
Appreciate if anyone can throw some light on this confusion.
Thanks. :confuse:
If you buy the extended BMW warranty or buy a CPO car with the extended warranty, then that doesn't cover wear and tear items, either.. There is a separate maintenance plan extension that you can purchase and that will cover those items.
An extended warranty that covered normal wear and tear would be hard to find, I think.
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It covers "normal" wear and tear. If someone is abusing the car and burning out the clutch and brakes every few months, I'm sure they have exclusions for that.