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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Using wire to clean sunroof drains is risky...some systems have a section of rubber hose in there, and if you knock that loose, you can imagine what it takes to get at it...I would use air pressure myself.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Worth noting, but I only passed along what the shop manual mentioned. I have no idea how stiff or flexible speedo wire is. Personally, I've never used either method, but I do check those drains in the battery area frequently.
  • larmenlarmen Member Posts: 22
    you should check out the other german car forums at edmund's. especially the MBs. can you imagine plunking down all of that dough--in many cases twice what Passat owners do--and still having the car in shop for assorted gremlins, demons, and the like. What is it, anyway, with German cars? the manufacurers can design these fabulous machines but they STILL don't get the reliability bit.
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Member Posts: 172
    My 03 Passat remains trouble-free at 63K, but I know the routine maintenance is going to be high over the coming miles, what with changing brake pads (fine so far), timing belt, water pump, etc.
    Anyway, here's my question. I know these cars are supposed to have lifetime trannie fluid. But that seems like a bad idea to me (surely the fluid has little metal bits grinding around in it, no?)
    So.. should I get the fluid changed? When?
    If so, any caveats? Like - only have a dealer do it? (Or can any good trannie shop do it?)
    Use what kind of fluid?
    Or can I ignore it and hope it stays good?
    Thanks!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Let's put it this way - if you get the fluid changed (especially if a different transmission fluid is changed), this will result in leaks in the transmission seals (at best), and rapid transmission wear (at worst). As a former mechanic and 5-time VW owner - my advice to you is this:

    If the fluid says lifetime - DON'T change it under any circumstances. That goes for transmission fluid, antifreeze, etc. These fluids were specifically designed for the metals, hoses, seals used in VW's engines, transmissions, cooling systems, etc.

    If you don't heed this advice, I have a saying that my parents brought with them from the islands:

    "Those who won't hear - must feel..." And your wallet will feel it ($$$$) big time... :sick:

    HTH... :shades:
  • c_squaredncc_squarednc Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 Passat has about 53,000 miles. I guess the Right front CV boot tore and the non-VW shop recommended a new axle. They installed an aftermarket axle (saying it was the best choice).

    Now when I take a really hard right turn (steering wheel to the wheel lock)and move (as in parking), there is a click / rub feel - similar to a part-time 4 wheel drive on dry pavement (this did not happen before the repair). The shop told me it could be a stiff joint - give it a few weeks (I did) and it still makes the noise. The shop says the steering may be "over-extending" and it isn't a safety issue. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it really "not a safety issue"? I will appreciate any info.
  • damol1damol1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Passat and the open door warning appears most on the time. It is the driver door. I was unable to find a sensor or something similar. Does anyone know how to fix this problem?
    :sick:
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Member Posts: 172
    600kgolfgt - many thanks for the advice on the trannie fluid - couldn't be more welcome!
  • bmwr80bmwr80 Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced the front pads on my Passat, which was relatively straight forward. I moved onto the rears, and when I removed the old pads, I could not get the rear brake piston to retrack enough for the clearance of the new pads. I opened the bleeder, and the rear just kept bleeding without the piston retracking any further. I was using mt brake spreader and applied as much pressure as I could (and no, the emergency brake was not on). Any idea what is going on?
  • tf1tf1 Member Posts: 9
    Is it bug or feature?
    I've noticed my lights (DRL) will not go on at the time I release parking brake. It looks like I have DRL instead of low beam now. Any suggestions? (1.8T, sedan).
    Thanks.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Sure, it's been covered here before. The piston on the rear calipers has to be turned simultaneously while pressue is applied.

    You can rent a suitable tool from Auto Zone and some Pep Boys to do the deed. $35 (or so), fully refunded upon return of the tool. Much more difficult without the tool, but it supposedly can be done (dunno how - I used the tool).

    BTW, the same tool is needed on a bunch of cars that use the rear disc brake as the parking brake.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    You wrote:

    I've noticed my lights (DRL) will not go on at the time I release parking brake. It looks like I have DRL instead of low beam now.

    First, let's make sure we're talking about the same things. I have an '03, BTW. There are the headlight low beam bulbs and then there are the smaller "city" light bulbs in the same area of the headlight unit. The DRL are actually the headlight low beams (some say they run at reduced power when in DRL mode). Are you saying that the low beams are not lighting, and all you are seeing is the city light bulb lit?

    Could be that both your headlight low beams bit the dust.
  • tf1tf1 Member Posts: 9
    altair4, thank you for your attention to my problem. Both at the same time?
    I was driving late evening and noticed difference in low beam(it was brighter couple days ago). I do not have any light at all when I release parking brake. When I turn low beam, those small bulbs goes on(not in the center, but on the radius), so now I use fog lights in the city. I've called VW today, they said check with dealership. I have 47,000 miles, so something might be covered under the warranty. I think it might be fuse(s), I am trying to read fusecard from driver's side(#s 20,21,22 and 23 are possible reasons).
    (Off top, one of my co-workers considering Passat, we might go to dealership this Sat with him).
    Thanks again and let me know what you think.
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    There is a slight difference in light output between the daytime running lights and the low beam lights. Some night, park in front of a garage door and start your passat. You see the DRLs. Then, turn on the low beam headlights. You should note a slight increase in the light output. The relationship to the parking break is not clear to me, however (I'll play later...). Don't be so quick to assume a fuse. There are many switches that could also be the root cause of the malfunction. At any rate, it is all warranty work.
  • tf1tf1 Member Posts: 9
    You are right, I had everything as you wrote. But as of now it's a little bit different: no lights at all after parking brake release, pure light(DRL?) after low beam turned on.
    Will try to check with dealer soon. Any ideas, concerning to fusecard from Passatians:)?
    Thanks.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    So you're saying that the low beams actually work when you turn the headlight switch on, but the DRL's don't work when you release the parking brake lever?

    If this is true, then it could be a defect in relay 173, which controls the DRLs, but I've never heard mention of anyone with a similar failure (and I'm on a lot of Passat boards).

    Out of curiosity, what is the condition of your battery? Is it the original battery? Have you ever added distilled water to it (the OEM battery is not a sealed unit but, incredibly, the caps to the individual cells are covered with two labels). Sometimes the Passat's electrical system gets dodgy when the voltage is on the lower side.

    Other than that, I'm out of ideas. Sorry.
  • tf1tf1 Member Posts: 9
    Just came back from the dealership. You were both right:
    "Both headlights burnt out" according to the invoice. Fixed in 40 min under the warranty.

    I had no low beam or DRLs at all when I release parking lever. These "little bitty" bulbs (not in the center of the headlight, but aside and up from them) would light when I would turn low beam, but it's not enough, they like bulb in simple flash light, so I used fog lights.

    I did nothing to the battery, it's still works well for me. Should I?
    Thanks again for your help.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Glad to hear the outcome went well, with just a simple burnt out bulbs issue.

    Okay, if your battery is the original, it will take distilled water. Taking care of the battery, especially now before the colder weather hits, is important. Even moreso, given that your car is at least 3 years old (mine will be 4 in November).

    Follow the instructions here to gain full access to the battery: http://www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/leak/index.htm

    Stop at step 2 from these instructions.

    Now, if your battery is like mine, it will have two labels stuck to the top of the battery, running end to end. One of those labels will have a hole in it to allow you to see the "magic eye" which reveals the condition of the battery. Peel these labels off and discard.

    Now, you should see six removeable caps. You can use a coin (a quarter works nicely) to unscrew these caps to reveal the interior of the battery. DON'T LOSE THESE CAPS.

    Next, using a flashlight, look into each cell. You should see electrolyte liquid in each one. If the level is low, you'll want to add distilled water until the surface of the electrolyte forms a meniscus or a dimple.

    The typical person will use an old turkey baster:
    image

    And you may need something this big if the water is really low.

    I prefer something a bit more controllable, especially when adding just a little water - an oral medicine syringe for infants:
    image

    You can get one at any drug store for very little money. The benefit is it allows very accurate amounts and placement without leaking. It's much smaller than a baster and easier to handle.

    Don't use tapwater. Use only distilled water. And remember that the electrolyte in the battery is actually acid. Don't get it on you or your car.

    Good luck.
  • tf1tf1 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the info. I've seen battery at the time I changed cabin filter, but did not pay attention to it. I will check it in the next week or two.
    Good luck.
  • passat94passat94 Member Posts: 2
    Hello!

    I just bought a 94 Passat vr6 5 spd. last week and am unfortunately having the same problem engaging 1st gear. It is as if it is just not there sometimes. For the most part, it shifts smoothly, then all of a sudden, it will not go into gear no matter what I do. Then, it either just goes in or grinds in. I don't know about 5th as I have not yet had any problems (I live in Philadelphia, so I don't really get up to 5th very often). Please let me know if you have figured this out! Thanks. Nicole Miceli
  • 96vwpassat96vwpassat Member Posts: 5
    I just bought a 96' Passat and when i bought it the ABS light and brake light were both on. it doesnt seem like there has been anything weird happening when i apply the brakes, does anyone know what could be causing this problem? I also have one other question, in the manual it says that there are front and back running lights, when just my running lights are on should my dash lights be on?? thanks
  • 96vwpassat96vwpassat Member Posts: 5
    I had a problem with water too, my 96 passat was sitting in the driveway for a couple days when it was raining, i wondered why the inside of the car was fogged and when i opened the doors the front driver and passanger floors were soaked!! it went from under the dash to under the front seats. A few days later when it had dried it rained again, this day it POURED!! when it stopped i checked the car and it was completely dry!?!?! now it is damp again, only in the passenger side, does n e one have a clue wut could be causing this??
  • hapday1hapday1 Member Posts: 2
    On the way to work this morning I heard something DRAGGING under my car..heart racing I jumped out and got on my hands and knees...turns out it's the PLASTIC engine cover on the bottom...AGAIN! HELP! Do I HAVE to get it fixed? What is it even there for and WHY is it plastic? I'm so confused...My right fog light is also out, do I have to take my car to the dealer for that too? I might as well just have my paycheck directly deposited to the VW dealer! :-P :confuse: :cry:
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    well short answer is that you do not need this piece of plastic but...
    Your front wheel well lining is supported by it (you may get strange noises from linings flapping).
    Your Cd (Coefficient of drag) will likely go up and milage down (if you do any highway driving)
    More dirt in engine bay.

    Why plastic?
    It is cheaper than metal and probably lighter. It does not protect from impacts (as it is not supposed to) just helps air flow and keeps engine bay cleaner.

    Krzys
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    THe only thing I would add to Krzys' comment would be if you do get it replaced (I would), ask them to use the one for the W8 model. It will fit perfectly on any B5 or B5.5 Passat and, incredibly, it's actually less expensive than the one for the 1.8T or V6 model.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Two questions:

    1) How many miles are on the car?
    2) Has the clutch been changed recently?
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    Is the bumper to bumper warranty in effect (under 4 yrs & 50k miles)? If so, the fog light is covered. Has your mechanic removed this plastic to perform any work (oil change, etc.)? If so, perhaps they forgot to put all of the screws back in and caused the issue? It is worth asking about.
  • hapday1hapday1 Member Posts: 2
    Not sure about the warranty..I put some calls in yesterday and have yet to hear back. I actually bought the car at Power Volvo in Irvine and it was used, so I'm trying to figure out what the deal is with the warranty. As for the plastic, I can see that its a little broken and the piece with the screw is hanging down, but it looks like it can just be put back in place, so I am going to avoid the dealership at all costs!! pun intended!!
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Member Posts: 172
    Really basic question but.... this thread has me thinking about the Passat battery. At 65k and 3 yrs, and mostly highway miles, my battery's fine, and this weekend I will go out and check the water as per altair's excellent post.
    BUT... a question.. suppose someday I need a new battery. The dealer will be happy to sell me one at a premium. But what are better deals? In other words - (a) what are the specs for a battery for a 2003 VW Passat 1.8t (my manual says nothing), and (b) which brands/ models out there do people recommend? (C) where would I go to get it at the lowest price?
    Thanks!
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Brozhnik, excellent questions there! I've been thinking the exact same thing because I'm at 4 years of ownership, but with far less mileage than you (I'm at 35,000).

    From the research I've done so far, I see some people plunking down about $120 at the dealer. Others are using Auto Zone's Duralast battery in Group Size 48 for about $65. Some say that battery fits well, others say it's smaller than their OEM battery, causing a problem with the hold-down. Others have mentioned using the Sears Diehard.

    I don't know what I'm going to do yet. I have to measure my OEM battery first. But now that the cold weather has hit here, I'll be using my solar panel charger that I picked up from another Dub owner to keep things charged for now.

    BTW, it looks like all the replacements are maintenance-free designs. Not sure if that's necessarily better or not.
  • 96vwpassat96vwpassat Member Posts: 5
    My 96 passat was sitting in the driveway for a couple days when it was raining, i wondered why the inside of the car was fogged and when i opened the doors the front driver and passanger floors were soaked!! it went from under the dash to under the front seats. A few days later when it had dried it rained again, this day it POURED!! when it stopped i checked the car and it was completely dry!?!?! now it is damp again, only in the passenger side, does n e one have a clue wut could be causing this?? Also, the manual says the car has front and rear daytime running lights, but should my dash lights also be on??
  • papatsypapatsy Member Posts: 5
    If you are having electrical problems with your Passat after water was under the driver's seat, you might have to have the Comfort&Control module looked at and possibly replaced. It's under the carpeting.
  • mikegccmikegcc Member Posts: 2
    I have an 01 Passat GLX 4-Motion Wagon with 106K miles on it. I have a problem getting heat. Went to dealer and they replaced water pump/thermostat and my VBelt (not timing). Charged me 941.31 (part 226.31 labor 941.31) at Mountain States Motors in Denver, CO.

    I still have very little heat if any while idling (dealer says that this is normal - won't get much heat output while idling even when car is hot). I live in Wyoming and have always been able to start my car and let it get warmed up. When I am on the interstate going 70 mph get a little bit more heat. I have climatronic and I am testing it by putting it on high while driving. I want to take it back to dealer but feel like I am being ripped off. I am going to suggest they fix the problem and I will pay for the parts they put in before but the labor can be applied to them trying again to fix the problem since all the work they did didn't change my no heat situation?

    Is this reasonable and does anyone else have any suggestions as to what the cause could be?
  • mikegccmikegcc Member Posts: 2
    I have an 01 Passat GLX 4-Motion Wagon with 106K miles on it. I had a check engine light on for about 6 months. I finally went to a dealer Mountain States Motors in Denver, CO and had them look at. They said both O2 sensors before the cat. conv. were out and had to be replaced. I said OK and they charged me 854.54 (414.54 parts/440.00 labor).

    I drive about 350 miles home and my check engine light goes on. I take it to Checker auto in my home town and they give me a printout of the code (P0431) and call the dealer and they say it could be a bad cat. conv. (approx. 1500.00). What are the chances of this happening or am I getting ripped off?

    They also said my car could need a s/w update...anybody know what they are talking about and how this relates to this code being reported?
    Thanks
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Couple of things I'll throw out for you:

    1) I can't imagine the car not warming up at idle. I would suspect either you have a blocked heater core or a thermostat issue (which you already had done).

    2) I don't have the V6, but I can tell you that the 1.8T, and every other VW I've owned, puts out a lot of heat through the HVAC. Even in single digit temps, once the interior of my car is warm, I usually have to turn down the heat.

    3) I noticed you specifically mentioned that the timing belt was not changed out. Is this because it had already been done, or what? With the other belts and pump being done, I sure would have gotten that taken cre of, too, if it was the original TB. The manual recommends change at 105K, although conventional wisdom is to get it done sooner, since there are interference engines.

    4) I'd certainly make the smae argument about the labor....

    Good luck.
  • adriannedelcuadriannedelcu Member Posts: 1
    I have a ’97 passatt and recently the seal of the fuel pump started leaking. Does any one have any solutions for the best solution? Is there a place that would rebuild it?
    THANKS
  • verdugoverdugo Member Posts: 2,286
    http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Volkswagen/1158303600000_1161154800000_0106-14/index.- - - html

    If you haven't had it done, I strongly encourage you to do it. It makes a world of difference. With the newly defined VIN range, hopefully dealers won't give people a hard time about it.

    They even mention that dealers should perform it on the cars that they still have on the lot. And if RVU (voluntary recall) is what I think it means, this is now a recall rather than just a TSB.
  • heath3rheath3r Member Posts: 1
    My car smells like antifreeze/coolant inside the car. When the AC is on, the smell is VERY strong. There is no visible leak under the car. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • 96vwpassat96vwpassat Member Posts: 5
    What kinds of electrical problems would u suspect?? the one thing that happened is that my radio doesnt turn on?? could it be caused by this?? the red security light still blinks tho, if not do u have n e suggestions for this?? thanks!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Sounds like your heater core is shot....
  • vdub22vdub22 Member Posts: 1
    I go to a technical college and I brought my car in one day to do some work on it. I drive a 1999 VW passat. The tail light on the driver side was not working but the brake light was. I'm still trying to figure that out, but that is not my biggest problem. When I had to quit for the day I got in my car to leave the shop and the car turned on fine but I couldnt shift out of park. (tip-tronic trans. 5 speed). At first I thought I blew the fuse working on the tail lights. But the fuse checked out fine so I called the dealership and they thought it might be the brake light switch, which made sense but that didn't work either. If anybody can give me some other things I should try or if this has happened to anyone else let me know, thanks.
  • wileeebwileeeb Member Posts: 16
    I posted the original message. The solution for me was totally weird. Though I had purchased a set of four new tires from a tire dealer, one of the tires was not an exact match. That one slightly different tire was enough to cause my AMAZINGLY EXPENSIVE HIGH MAINTENANCE PASSAT to cause itself to temporarily stall when I made any kind of turning or side to side lane change. The tire dealer gave me FOUR new tires when I explained the problems he had caused me. I demanded four tires otherwise the wear and tear was different and I didn't know what problems I might have caused by having three matching tires and one smaller tire.
  • wileeebwileeeb Member Posts: 16
    I am having flashing on and off, ABS light, Brake light, Oil light, TAC turning off problems similar to the following threads on this site: :cry:
    #2050
    #1905
    #1902
    #1869
    #1765
    #1762
    #1465
    #1448
    #1399
    #1369
    #1360
    #1367
    #1348
    #1349
    #1334
    #1331
    #1289
    #1216
    #1287
    #1285
    #1188
    #1133
    #1066
    #1062
    #792
    #768
    #1132
    #1121
    #1083
    #1072
    #1069
    #1068
    #1065
    #1050
    #1008
    #999
    #1011
    #957
    #943
    #869
    #646
    #644
    #639
    #51
    #29
    VW's lack of customer concern and caring is sad. In 2000, when I first stated I was dissatisfied with their service, I was never again contacted by the service dept to see if their service was satisfactory. The VW maintenance personnel know me by my first name because I am a frequent user. I think my VW Passat repairs have fully funded at least one person's pension plan. :mad: :lemon:
  • papatsypapatsy Member Posts: 5
    In my case, the water on the floor affected the door locks and the heated seats. The Comfort&Control module controls some electrical things - it's under the driver seat.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    Could you elaborate what "one of the tires was not an exact match" mean?
    Did you put different tires on front?

    Krzys
  • wileeebwileeeb Member Posts: 16
    I do not remember the exact details from Mar 2005. When I purchased my set of four new tires, I think the tire dealer put the wrong size on the right rear tire. The proper tires for my car are 195/65 R15. I can't remember if the mixmatched tire was a 195/60 R 15 or a 195/65 R 14. I think the mismatch was betwenn R 15 and R 14. I didn't keep the emails about the problem once the tire dealer corrected the problem, so I can't tell you exactly what was the problem.
  • wileeebwileeeb Member Posts: 16
    My 2nd Email - SAFETY ISSUE. My VW Pasast user's manual implies that when the ABS/BRAKE lights come on together, there could be a problem when braking. This morning WHILE ACCELERATING on the freeway, the warning lights came on AGAIN (ABS/BRAKE lights + the TACH quits working.) Then, my REAR BRAKES LOCKED UP!!!! That took away my ability to steer the car. Fortunately, I was in the right lane and was able to FORCE the car into an exit lane to my right. It took a tremendous amount of pull to force the car to budge a little to the next lane. Even though my owner's manual indicates on page 102 the rear brakes could lock up when braking, this is a warning. These LIFE OR DEATH REAR BRAKE LOCK UPS CAN ALSO OCCUR when driving. :surprise: My car goes in for service tomorrow to the dealer. This morning, I tried to find out what the VW Passat National Highway Transportation Safety Agency service bulletin 0517, NHTSA Item Number 10016037 specifically stated, but VW corporate headquarters stated there was no such bulletin. (I offered to give them the web site at the Federal Safety Agency website so they could view this SAFETY bulletin but they declined.) The Service Manager at the dealer stated they don't have access to the bulletins, but the technicians that work FOR THEM, might have access to the service bulletin. Service Bulletin = VW realizes they have a SYSTEMIC SAFETY DEFECT and they tell the National Highway Transportation Safety Board about the problem and what it takes to fix the problem. VW only acknowledges they have a SYSTEMIC SIGNIFICANT safety problem, they don't offer to pay for repair as they would with a recall. My personal opinion: NHTSA should require a cost analysis: loss of lives versus recall. This intermitten ABS/BRAKE light problem is worthy of serious consideration as a RECALL issue by the National Highway Transportation Safety Agency. :surprise:
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I would not think a 14" tire would fit on a 15" rim, at least without damage to the tire. Your tire dealer sounds like an idiot if that is in fact what they did.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Have you filed a complaint with NHTSA? If you haven't, you should. Compaints to NHSTA can force a recall by the manufacturer...I was involved in organizing the campaign for the fuel pump recall on two other Passat boards (off Edmunds). I strongly believe that having the membership there file complaints helped to force the recall affecting some 2003 models. Take your anger about the situation and focus it to effect change.
  • wileeebwileeeb Member Posts: 16
    The tire dealer showed me the invoice where they ordered the tires for me. When the tires came in, they simply installed them and did not check to see if what they ordered was what they received. I had so many car problems around that time it took a couple of weeks to realize the total loss of power (driving to coasting) when turning and changing lanes was due to a newly installed mismatched tire. (I wonder ....possibly the mismatched tire was larger instead of smaller, After thinking about it today, it seems the mismatch had less room inside the wheel well)
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