Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Anyway, here's my question. I know these cars are supposed to have lifetime trannie fluid. But that seems like a bad idea to me (surely the fluid has little metal bits grinding around in it, no?)
So.. should I get the fluid changed? When?
If so, any caveats? Like - only have a dealer do it? (Or can any good trannie shop do it?)
Use what kind of fluid?
Or can I ignore it and hope it stays good?
Thanks!
If the fluid says lifetime - DON'T change it under any circumstances. That goes for transmission fluid, antifreeze, etc. These fluids were specifically designed for the metals, hoses, seals used in VW's engines, transmissions, cooling systems, etc.
If you don't heed this advice, I have a saying that my parents brought with them from the islands:
"Those who won't hear - must feel..." And your wallet will feel it ($$$$) big time... :sick:
HTH... :shades:
Now when I take a really hard right turn (steering wheel to the wheel lock)and move (as in parking), there is a click / rub feel - similar to a part-time 4 wheel drive on dry pavement (this did not happen before the repair). The shop told me it could be a stiff joint - give it a few weeks (I did) and it still makes the noise. The shop says the steering may be "over-extending" and it isn't a safety issue. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it really "not a safety issue"? I will appreciate any info.
:sick:
I've noticed my lights (DRL) will not go on at the time I release parking brake. It looks like I have DRL instead of low beam now. Any suggestions? (1.8T, sedan).
Thanks.
You can rent a suitable tool from Auto Zone and some Pep Boys to do the deed. $35 (or so), fully refunded upon return of the tool. Much more difficult without the tool, but it supposedly can be done (dunno how - I used the tool).
BTW, the same tool is needed on a bunch of cars that use the rear disc brake as the parking brake.
I've noticed my lights (DRL) will not go on at the time I release parking brake. It looks like I have DRL instead of low beam now.
First, let's make sure we're talking about the same things. I have an '03, BTW. There are the headlight low beam bulbs and then there are the smaller "city" light bulbs in the same area of the headlight unit. The DRL are actually the headlight low beams (some say they run at reduced power when in DRL mode). Are you saying that the low beams are not lighting, and all you are seeing is the city light bulb lit?
Could be that both your headlight low beams bit the dust.
I was driving late evening and noticed difference in low beam(it was brighter couple days ago). I do not have any light at all when I release parking brake. When I turn low beam, those small bulbs goes on(not in the center, but on the radius), so now I use fog lights in the city. I've called VW today, they said check with dealership. I have 47,000 miles, so something might be covered under the warranty. I think it might be fuse(s), I am trying to read fusecard from driver's side(#s 20,21,22 and 23 are possible reasons).
(Off top, one of my co-workers considering Passat, we might go to dealership this Sat with him).
Thanks again and let me know what you think.
Will try to check with dealer soon. Any ideas, concerning to fusecard from Passatians:)?
Thanks.
If this is true, then it could be a defect in relay 173, which controls the DRLs, but I've never heard mention of anyone with a similar failure (and I'm on a lot of Passat boards).
Out of curiosity, what is the condition of your battery? Is it the original battery? Have you ever added distilled water to it (the OEM battery is not a sealed unit but, incredibly, the caps to the individual cells are covered with two labels). Sometimes the Passat's electrical system gets dodgy when the voltage is on the lower side.
Other than that, I'm out of ideas. Sorry.
"Both headlights burnt out" according to the invoice. Fixed in 40 min under the warranty.
I had no low beam or DRLs at all when I release parking lever. These "little bitty" bulbs (not in the center of the headlight, but aside and up from them) would light when I would turn low beam, but it's not enough, they like bulb in simple flash light, so I used fog lights.
I did nothing to the battery, it's still works well for me. Should I?
Thanks again for your help.
Okay, if your battery is the original, it will take distilled water. Taking care of the battery, especially now before the colder weather hits, is important. Even moreso, given that your car is at least 3 years old (mine will be 4 in November).
Follow the instructions here to gain full access to the battery: http://www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/leak/index.htm
Stop at step 2 from these instructions.
Now, if your battery is like mine, it will have two labels stuck to the top of the battery, running end to end. One of those labels will have a hole in it to allow you to see the "magic eye" which reveals the condition of the battery. Peel these labels off and discard.
Now, you should see six removeable caps. You can use a coin (a quarter works nicely) to unscrew these caps to reveal the interior of the battery. DON'T LOSE THESE CAPS.
Next, using a flashlight, look into each cell. You should see electrolyte liquid in each one. If the level is low, you'll want to add distilled water until the surface of the electrolyte forms a meniscus or a dimple.
The typical person will use an old turkey baster:
And you may need something this big if the water is really low.
I prefer something a bit more controllable, especially when adding just a little water - an oral medicine syringe for infants:
You can get one at any drug store for very little money. The benefit is it allows very accurate amounts and placement without leaking. It's much smaller than a baster and easier to handle.
Don't use tapwater. Use only distilled water. And remember that the electrolyte in the battery is actually acid. Don't get it on you or your car.
Good luck.
Good luck.
I just bought a 94 Passat vr6 5 spd. last week and am unfortunately having the same problem engaging 1st gear. It is as if it is just not there sometimes. For the most part, it shifts smoothly, then all of a sudden, it will not go into gear no matter what I do. Then, it either just goes in or grinds in. I don't know about 5th as I have not yet had any problems (I live in Philadelphia, so I don't really get up to 5th very often). Please let me know if you have figured this out! Thanks. Nicole Miceli
Your front wheel well lining is supported by it (you may get strange noises from linings flapping).
Your Cd (Coefficient of drag) will likely go up and milage down (if you do any highway driving)
More dirt in engine bay.
Why plastic?
It is cheaper than metal and probably lighter. It does not protect from impacts (as it is not supposed to) just helps air flow and keeps engine bay cleaner.
Krzys
1) How many miles are on the car?
2) Has the clutch been changed recently?
BUT... a question.. suppose someday I need a new battery. The dealer will be happy to sell me one at a premium. But what are better deals? In other words - (a) what are the specs for a battery for a 2003 VW Passat 1.8t (my manual says nothing), and (b) which brands/ models out there do people recommend? (C) where would I go to get it at the lowest price?
Thanks!
From the research I've done so far, I see some people plunking down about $120 at the dealer. Others are using Auto Zone's Duralast battery in Group Size 48 for about $65. Some say that battery fits well, others say it's smaller than their OEM battery, causing a problem with the hold-down. Others have mentioned using the Sears Diehard.
I don't know what I'm going to do yet. I have to measure my OEM battery first. But now that the cold weather has hit here, I'll be using my solar panel charger that I picked up from another Dub owner to keep things charged for now.
BTW, it looks like all the replacements are maintenance-free designs. Not sure if that's necessarily better or not.
I still have very little heat if any while idling (dealer says that this is normal - won't get much heat output while idling even when car is hot). I live in Wyoming and have always been able to start my car and let it get warmed up. When I am on the interstate going 70 mph get a little bit more heat. I have climatronic and I am testing it by putting it on high while driving. I want to take it back to dealer but feel like I am being ripped off. I am going to suggest they fix the problem and I will pay for the parts they put in before but the labor can be applied to them trying again to fix the problem since all the work they did didn't change my no heat situation?
Is this reasonable and does anyone else have any suggestions as to what the cause could be?
I drive about 350 miles home and my check engine light goes on. I take it to Checker auto in my home town and they give me a printout of the code (P0431) and call the dealer and they say it could be a bad cat. conv. (approx. 1500.00). What are the chances of this happening or am I getting ripped off?
They also said my car could need a s/w update...anybody know what they are talking about and how this relates to this code being reported?
Thanks
1) I can't imagine the car not warming up at idle. I would suspect either you have a blocked heater core or a thermostat issue (which you already had done).
2) I don't have the V6, but I can tell you that the 1.8T, and every other VW I've owned, puts out a lot of heat through the HVAC. Even in single digit temps, once the interior of my car is warm, I usually have to turn down the heat.
3) I noticed you specifically mentioned that the timing belt was not changed out. Is this because it had already been done, or what? With the other belts and pump being done, I sure would have gotten that taken cre of, too, if it was the original TB. The manual recommends change at 105K, although conventional wisdom is to get it done sooner, since there are interference engines.
4) I'd certainly make the smae argument about the labor....
Good luck.
THANKS
If you haven't had it done, I strongly encourage you to do it. It makes a world of difference. With the newly defined VIN range, hopefully dealers won't give people a hard time about it.
They even mention that dealers should perform it on the cars that they still have on the lot. And if RVU (voluntary recall) is what I think it means, this is now a recall rather than just a TSB.
#2050
#1905
#1902
#1869
#1765
#1762
#1465
#1448
#1399
#1369
#1360
#1367
#1348
#1349
#1334
#1331
#1289
#1216
#1287
#1285
#1188
#1133
#1066
#1062
#792
#768
#1132
#1121
#1083
#1072
#1069
#1068
#1065
#1050
#1008
#999
#1011
#957
#943
#869
#646
#644
#639
#51
#29
VW's lack of customer concern and caring is sad. In 2000, when I first stated I was dissatisfied with their service, I was never again contacted by the service dept to see if their service was satisfactory. The VW maintenance personnel know me by my first name because I am a frequent user. I think my VW Passat repairs have fully funded at least one person's pension plan. :mad: :lemon:
Did you put different tires on front?
Krzys