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Comments
Had similar hesitation problem for 3 months prior to the #1&6 coil finally failing on the 3 coil pack. Did not throw a code until just prior to total failure. Prior hesitation was probably due to that coil going south. After replacing coil pack it performed like a new car. Plenty of power and no hesitation. [I had PO301 & PO306 -- OBDII]
These are the codes for each coil sensor, the coil pack has 3 coils, so you should show 2 of these codes when a coil fails totally. Some parts stores have a reader you can borrow to check the system codes. Or your local mechanic can check for them.
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
Did replacing the switch @ the Dealer fix the problem?
I dropped the car off tonight -- will let you know.
I am writing this post because it's been a week and the dealership cannot figure out what is wrong. They initially said it was what they were calling a 'module' in the ignition that needed to be replaced. It took 2 days to get that part in which they did and it didn't work. They told me yesterday that they need to bring in a specialist to continue the diagnosing.
Can anyone offer any advice? I love the car but am pissed that I bought this high end vehicle and now I have to drive a crappy rental they provided, a compact hundai!
I have exactly the same problem.
It's driving me crazy.
I do believe that it is a senor in the brake fluid container also. It also seems to be outside air temp sensitive. I am in Philly and the problem started with the change of weather. Do you keep you car in the garage?
Many the change in temp during the drive casues it to flake out.
Thanks.
I'm in the Allentown, PA area but I've been going to North Penn Imports in Colmar Pa -- on 309 just north of Philly. VW customer service won't help me b/c of the mileage on the car -- 70,000. I guess I'll try my luck with the service manager at the dealer when I get completely fed up with it.
a pair on the left, a pair on the right, and the one in the middle just below the
roof. The rear white lights are not on. Headlights, etc. are not on. We just
discovered this when we went outside. What do we do?
The other problem I've been having, and not sure if this is related or not, is that the battery has now drained three times for no apparent reason. The first two times were whilst I was waiting for someone, sat in the car with the engine off but key in the ignition and radio on. Those occasions were for no more than 5 minutes and the battery was completely dead. The recovery guy that came out the first time said the battery looked new and in good condition and couldn't work out why it should have died. The third time, this weekend, was overnight. Drove the car home with no problems, car wouldn't start the next day until someone jump started me.
Has anyone had any of these issues before? I really don't know what to try next. I don't trust the VW dealer, but not sure that a local independent garage could help either, and I really don't want to throw even more money at it without being sure something could be solved.
Thanks in advance...
shipo, "Mileage Fraud!! Odometer was rolled back!!! What 2 do?" #42, 30 Jan 2006 10:19 am
So, assuming that you took a look at my tale, my suggestion would be for you to contact a local independent shop and have them do the work. You can buy the cluster yourself from VW or have the shop do the purchase, either way my bet is that the new cluster, along with installation won't set you back more than two hundred and fifty pounds, three hundred at the most.
Let us know how you make out.
Best Regards,
Shipo
One thing that may be more informative: if I'm coasting at very low speed and use the pedal to give only a little more gas, so the engine stays in the lower 1000 rpm range, the sound does NOT happen. But if I give it more gas (not necessarily enough to get to 2000 rpm, but near it), I get the noise as soon as I let go of the pedal. So that makes me wonder if it's the turbo.
If anyone is still with me -- (a) any idea what this is? (b) is it a problem or just normal and no problem?
Thanks!
First, pull the fuse so you don't kill the battery - sorry, I don't remember the number. This means that you won't have any brake lights - either replace the fuse when you drive it in or be dang careful without 'em. Don't disconnect the battery, you'll lose a lot of settings - throttle position, power windows, etc.
If you're under warranty, then you're covered. If not, I think it took less than hour to repair. I think the part is cheap. I was under warranty when mine went.
70K miles. I am quite happy too.
Mobil 1 0W40 (VW502.00 approved oil) from begining (even though my dealer was using "regular" 5W30 I was bringing my own oil) and premium fuel.
Krzys
Anyway I found and obscure link to a web site that mentioned a story about trying to get VW to recall the cars for this exact issue and VW refused. The dealer knows about the problem and all you have to do is call them and have the brake sensor fixed. The incorrect sensor makes the car believe the tire pressuere is wrong and the brake fluid pressure is wrong so the ABS comes on without any warning or reason. It is important to make sure your tires are properly inflated. I did find that out from the dealer as well. Incorrect tire pressure can cause your ABS system to not work properly.
This is a known VW issue at all delearships. They just don't tell you until it happens to you.
I took mine to the dealership and they had it for three days. I haven't had a problem since.
J.Price
A thought - might be the diverter valve, below the turbo. That valve helps reduce turbo lag.
Excerpt from millteksport.com:
What does a diverter valve do?
The standard valve in your car regulates the turbo power. At idle, your valve is open from vacuum pressure. When you depress the throttle, the diverter valve begins to close. When fully closed, turbo boost is allowed to be delivered to your engine. When you lift the throttle, the boost pressure is released from the valve into your air cleaner box.
Meanwhile, his Snap-on tools code reader explained why the check engine light came on - needs a new O2 sensor (the front, upstream one). His total estimate: $389 (part, labor, and estimate - that estimate I can separate out if I have the job done elsewhere- estimate would just be $63).
Another guy says he can replace the 02 sensor for $245 parts and labor. The dealer - just parts and labor is $401! That one is easy to eliminate.
Anyway, the mechanic said it's ok to drive it for now, I'll just get worse gas mileage, but it doesn't need immediate repair.
Any comments?
Thanks again.
I have couple of questions for you. My wife has a Passat 2000 GLS with 2.8 L engine with 54000 miles on it that i take care of and it has given me of course a lot of problems. The ABS module had to be changed, the dealer wanted 1200 $ i followed your advice and got it pulled out and i sent it to Florida, total cost, 360 $, but the heater does not work, the independant mechanic who worked on it said he had to change the control module that commands the blenddoor but the heater core is plugged up and needs to be changed, it is at least a day work since you have to pull the control panel of the car to get access to it, i am planning to change at the same time the water pump which is leaking and might as well change the timing belt and so on. I ordered the whole kit. The check engine light is also turning on once in a while and also a message about emissions on the dashboard. It might have something to do with the sparkplugs that have been put about 2 years ago, a set of 4 prongs bosch. The dealer recommends ngk bkr6ekub, he sells them at 11.99 $ a piece, kragen sells the same at 7.99 but also sells ngk bkr6e at 1.99 $ a piece. Is there a difference with ou without that kub? Thank you in advance.
I have a question regarding the sparkplugs for a Passat 2000 GLS 2.8 L. According to the dealer, the spark plugs to use are NGK BKR 6 E KUB, they sell them at 11.99 $ a piece. Kragen sells the same at 7.99 $ and they have to order thgem but they also have in stock NGK BKR 6 E without KUB for 1.99 $. What is the difference? What are the best sparkplugs for that particular engine.
I still have in the car BOSCH 4 prongs spark plugs that wre put in for the 40 K schedule, but a check engine light comes on the dashboard and it could be related according to the dealer who says BOSCH sparkplugs might misfire and damage the head.
I was glad that you could save $840 on the ABS!
The heater core is a labor-intensive problem...good luck.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Your advice welcomed.
I'd never, ever, buy a car with a "check engine" light lit on it. Without the codes, you're completely in the dark. Get the codes pulled at an Autozone or Advance Auto Parts and see what they are and post'em here or check them on the web. Could be relatively cheap fix, could be expensive, who knows? With a replacement engine install, you could spend a lot of money chasing down the MIL issue. The vehicle won't pass emissions inspection (at least in my state) with the light on.
My advice is, unless you are 1) really mechanically inclined, 2) know current VW's, 3) have another car as your primary vehicle, 4) have a lot of spare cash, you should run, not walk, run, away from this vehicle.
The "how to adjust them properly" is different. I cranked my upward to compensate for the very sharp cutoff of these headlight lenses. In my area, where there are lots of dips and valleys in the roads, the sharp cutoff was virtually rendering me blind of the next climb when descending a dip.
Google "Headlight adjustment" for some guides on how to measure the proper setting.
Did you get this fixed, i have a 1999 passat and I have same problem. Please let me know how you have fixed it.
Thanks for all your help
Satish
I have exact same problem. Please help me fix it.
Thanks
oil sludge...be carefull $$$$$$
Anyway the latest....when I put the signal to turn left or right....the tic-tac sounds stay on.