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Control module and hydraulic unit removing and installing
Special tools and workshop equipment required
VAG 1331 torque wrench (or equivalent 5 to 50 Nm )
AG 1869/2 brake pedal loading device
The hydraulic unit and control module are not available as individual items. If found to be faulty, the hydraulic unit and control module should always be removed together.
Location:
The control module is bolted to the hydraulic unit and is located on the left side, in the engine compartment.
WARNING: Do not bend the brake lines in the area of the hydraulic unit!
Removing:
Vehicles equipped with coded radio, note or request radio code if necessary.
Disconnect battery.
Release control module connector and pull off.
Connect bleeder bottle hose to left-front brake caliper bleed screw and open bleed screw.
Install brake pedal loading device from VAS 5234
Depress brake pedal with brake pedal depressor.
Close left-front bleeder screw.
Place lint-free cloths under the control module and hydraulic unit.
Disconnect brake lines on the hydraulic unit.
Seal brake lines and threaded holes with plugs from repair kit Part No. 1 HO 698 311 A.
Remove hex nuts on hydraulic unit bracket -arrows-.
Remove hydraulic unit.
Installing:
Notes:
Remove sealing plugs on new hydraulic unit when the corresponding brake line is going to be connected.
If the sealing plugs are removed too early, brake fluid can escape, and can no longer be guaranteed that the unit is filled or bled. Installation is the reverse of Removal
Bleeding brake system
Enter radio code.
Code control module Code control module using VAS 5051 via "Guided fault finding" function.
Tightening torques:
Brake lines to ABS module:
Thread M 10 x 114 Nm
Thread M 12 x 114 Nm
Hydraulic unit hex nut to retainer
Also the passat seems to make a hollow sound acceleration. I have checked the bearings and hub as well as the tie rods of the rear tyres and them seem fine. The sounds seems as though it is coming from the rear
Thank you !!!
new member from Australia, with a 2006 Passat 2.0 TDI/DSG. DSG was a box of problems when I got it at 16,800K's, but got the mechatronic unit changed under warranty, and all good since (20,000K;s so far)
I am absolutely stunned at what I read on the forum about cam belt life. Here in Oz and around Asia that I am familiar with, there is not one car I know that has a cam belt life over 120,000 Kilometers - Not Miles mind you.
My Mitsubishi, 95,000 K's, Kia 100,000 K's, Nissan 105,000 K's etc. Never have I seen a manufacturer that has over 120,000 K's recommendation for a cam belt change. I think they were on a European Opel Vectra/Astra, but not sure.
My Passat has a VW recommended life of 100,000K's or 4 years. A kilometer is 5/8 of a mile.
I am cannot believe anyone drives more than 65,000 Miles in the US without changing a belt. Now I understand why you guys have so many breakages. Do the VW manufacturers in the states recommend going more than 65,000 Miles before changing the cam belt?
Krzys
Why is it in the Metric world (Europe/Asia/Australia) that we have 105,000 KILOMETRES life, and in the states you guys have 105,000 MILES life?
That is a 30%+ increase over the rest of the world. Maybe that is why they keep breaking, and I am sure the cars assembled in the continental USA/Canada do not have cam belts any better than the rest of the world.
It is a rare occurence for a belt to break here if the service schedule (of 105,000 Kilometres) is maintained.
105,000 Kilometers is actually 65,625 miles. Any wonder they break.
I own the 2003 Passat 1.8 and was hounded by my mechanic to get the timing belt job done around 90k. This job is huge and all the belts are replaced. If you fail to comply you will not be driving much longer. As with any VW built in Germany if you keep up with routine maintenance, you will drive this car for a very long time.
I find it odd that two different continents would have different recommended maintenance for the same vehicle! But perhaps that's the TDI vs. my model. Now having said that, when I had my Isuzu Rodeo the belts bailed on me at around 75k miles.
Now I get to 60,000 miles on a car and ask my mechanic. He will advise yes or no, based on the vehicle having a timing belt or a timing chain.
Bel Air Car Guy.
Krzys
PS Both VW and Subaru have timing belts and suggest to replace them at 105k miles. However they suggest inspection starting at 60k.
They recommended I replace the timing belt @ 60,000 miles. The price was steep (~$1200), but far less than breakage and destruction. They asked me to think about driving the car to 180,000 miles. If it followed VW intervals, I would change it 2x, and risk breakage and never seeing that mileage. If I followed their advice, I would change it 3x and be far more likely to make it.
They asked me to consider the change interval in Europe and Asia. And, they claim the reason the interval is higher in the US is due to the 5 year "cost to own" common on sites like this and perhaps required by the Federal Government. If they follow the lower mileage, the cost to own goes way up! A longer change interval makes it average out and appear less expensive.
I think this explains why the change interval for the timing belt is higher in the US. Of course Cost to Own is much higher if you wait, it fails out of warranty, and you have to buy an engine! An extra $1200 in 180,000 miles is not that great in the grand scheme and to have and enjoy a good vehicle.
After reading so many posts how and where to fix the problems, just started thinking whether I made a wrong decision. Will any one like to comment ?
Point of reference, the dealer wanted $750 for a fully warranteed repair (greater Boston, MA market). I talked him down to $500. You might do much better at an independent VW repair shop.
I've tried my best to keep my '03 Passat, but the repairs were getting too expensive and too frequent. I've practically gave away my Passat on a trade for a new '13 Accord. Good bye Passat and this forum. Thank you all for your advices on maintaining my recently departed Passat. Good luck.
Navy Guy
I think it's great you kept your Passat that long. I have an '04 Passat GLS and I'm still in love with it. I know one day I will have to give "her" up but if I had money to burn, I'd keep it and restore her to all her glory. Although I must say, she looks pretty darn good for 9 years old. Best car I've ever owned! Best wishes with your new car :-)
PS - They don't make VW's the way they used to.
Hopefully a code is stored for the dealer to find, but I hate problems that are anomalies. Any insight or experience is appreciated.
Use synthetic oil, change at 5k mile intervals.
Before turning the car off, drive slow enough to allow the turbo to spin down and cool off.
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Just doing fluid, may be like ~$40 + $10 for hand pump to pump the fluid in.
Also be aware that you must change Timing Belt at 50K miles or you will be ready for a mayor big engine work in all Passat 2010 Models.
After 3 years driving a Passat I loved the comfort but finally I realized that It is a car to Unload after 2 years or you will be paying for bad quality parts and design.
They have Injectors recalls not cover until your Injectors blow Up; and Other Ones that you may have already paid.
Next Time Check Edmunds.com recalls before you buy a VW car , because they have the reported problems in USA and more not reported problems from Canada and Europe.
Hello. I just bought a 2013 Volkswagen Passat. Awesome car. I can't find any repair manuals for it. Not Haynes, not Chilton, not even Bentley. The closest I've come is manuals for the previous generation Passat. Does anyone know where I can find a repair manual for my 2013 Passat?