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Comments
If it were "normal" why is there nothing in the owner's manual about it and why did it just start? Has anyone else experienced this noise?
Is it really that hard?
Thanks!
1. All the lights within the car stop working (it was ok last night)
2. Power windows don't work.
3. Remote control can't lock or unlock the car.
4. Can't lock all the doors at the same time.
It looks like the power supply within the car is broken. I can still drive the car and the headlights, dashboard and the radio are working. I found one potential cause of the problem. The dealer didn't close the passage door on the driver side properly when they cleaned the car. So the carpet was flooded with water (I blame myself for not seeing that when I inspected the car). Will that be the cause of the problems? Have any of you experienced a similar problems? Will the dealership take car of the problems? I left a message with the dealership regarding the problems. Thanks for your help.
I am having the same (Burning smell) problem with my 2000 Passat GLX. Could you please tell me if you found out the reason for this, and how did you fix this. This would save me some bucks with the dealer.
Thank you
Front Axle Boots (Both) - $440,
Carbon Flush and Coolant Temp Sensor - $350
Rear Brakes - $409
Serpentine Belt- $120,Right Front Fender Liner- $128
80,000 mile service - $600 -- Thanks a Lot.
I just purchased a new 2004 Passat 1.8T with the manual trany, and when we put in the garage it has this burnt oil smell. Does anyone else have this problem?
Thanks In Advance
NIKI1
Do you know the correrct size of the allen wrench and crescent wrench needed to do the job?
Is it really necessary to replace the bolts? Haynes says yes.
Also, Haynes says you can retract the pistons using "a pair of needle nose pliers" but they don't illustrate that. Is it necessary to apply pressure while you rotate the piston or does it "screw" itself back?
I have done disc brakes on a 1990 buick and replaced one caliper on a saab. How good do you have to be to do this job and get the complex parking brake adjustment right?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Larry Lapham
The vehicle has about 2000 miles on it, but this smell will linger for hours, and yes I agree with you, that new cars will give off different smells for a while. This is a nasty burnt oil smell. I have owned many new cars, and this one smells the worst by FAR.
Thanks For The Reply!!
NIKI1
1. the level of the break fluid
2. the tightness of the connections under the hood
3. used 3 computer decoders which said something about communication problems
Car runs O.K. Any ideas where to start looking?
You're right, the car runs OK, but the blinking lights are an annoyance.
Let me know if you find anything different.
You reported the following (my comments in parentheses):
Front Axle Boots (Both) - $440,
I had to replace my axles two years ago at much higher cost (went ahead and did the whole axle rather than the boots). The boots are a wear item, so I guess it's no unreasonable to expect that they'd wear out at 83000 miles.
Carbon Flush and Coolant Temp Sensor - $350
$350 seems a bit steep. We had the temp sensor replaced for $125 in 2001 (out of warranty). The coolant was flushed recently by a non-VW owned repair shop for about $50.
Rear Brakes - $409
Seems about on par with what my dealership charges, which is why I have someone else do it for less, not much less, but it is less expensive, and the parts are better than VW parts (last longer).
Serpentine Belt- $120,
I've had mine replaced twice (never broke - just preventive maintenance). My mechanic used the VW belt, which cost $60. He charged me $40 for labor, so $120 at the dealer seems like a good buy.
Right Front Fender Liner- $128
I had one of those wear through too. Something knocked the engine cover out of whack, and that pushed the fender liner to the wheel. But all of that ended up being covered by my insurance (longer story).
80,000 mile service - $600
I've not had any of the "dealer recommended" services done because they do a lot of "check fluid level" stuff and charge you a bundle. The one time I did let them do the service, they didn't check ANY of the fluid levels because they were all low and were still low when I picked the car up. So I do that stuff myself now or have a private mechanic do it. $600 does seem in line with what VW charges for that kind of stuff though.
So overall, I'd say you weren't taken for a ride except that the coolant flush and temp sensor replacement seems a bit steep. You could probably do better on prices if you can find a trustworthy mechanic.
Hope this helps.
What the hell could all this mean? We called the dealership immediately and left a voice mail for the sales manager (they were closed). He called my fiance back this morning and we had the car towed back to the dealership so they can inspect the car.
It was fine when we test drove it an hour before we leased it?? Any suggestions? We're really worried about this considering the car only has about 30 miles on it in total!!!
We called the dealer right away and it was towed back over there this morning. The car only has about 30 miles on it!! What the hell is going on?
Service manager called yesterday at 4:30pm. Said that he believes he's found the problem - the manufacturer installed the wrong "coils" on the car! Have you ever heard of such a thing on a brand new vehicle? He said that's what was causing the problems we experienced on the freeway when we drove it home Sunday night. He said they would replace them and all would be well. I'm very worried.
I have a 2003 Passat Wagon.
I have a hard grease like substance on the lower outside door jam edges that continues to appear overtime even after cleaning.
The dealer stated that this is cozmolene??? undercoating that is seeping out from underneath the vehicle when it gets hot.
I have noticed a hard white/clear wax like substance if I run my finger along the bottom edge of the door and appears to be around the lower door panel screws.
The grease gets on my pants legs when lifting out the kiddos and drips on my drive. It is truly an annoying problem and it does not seem like an undercoating should seep like this. I live in a coastal area of southern CA where the temperatures are moderate.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Anyone else figure it out?
Thanks
They said the car is ready to be picked up...they replaced ONE coil, not all of them. That bothers me. Shouldn't they have replaced them ALL?
I just kept cleaning it up. It did not stop for a year, so they must have really oversprayed! I finally traded it for other reasons, but this was annoying.
ATF 7176+4. However, the only places you will find this is either at the dealership or online.
Here's a site where it's referenced:
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/LIQUIDS.pdf
AMSOIL is an excellent synthetic transmission fluid that exceeds VW's standards. Here's a couple of links to AMSOIL related sites:
www.go-synthetic.com/ATF/atf.htm
www.synthetic1.com/ amsoil-automatic-transmission-fluid.htm
Service guy said that only one coil was bad and "they only got authorization from VW to replace ONE coil and no more...."
any ideas of where this phantom leak is coming from and how it is leaking this much if none of the fluid levels are dropping? it's making me -- and the mechanic-- nutz!
Serpentine Belt- $95
+ 10 % off on all the parts and labor including the 80K miles service.
Brakes - I did not get them done from the dealer. Other shops are offering $180-190 (Probably the dealer will replace the rotors??) and these other shops will just turn them???
The guy who does the service on my Passats put different rotors on last time that he said would (a) wear better, (b) aid in not generating so much brake dust(along with the pads he got as well), and (c) not have to be replaced with each brake job. He said they could be turned at least once and maybe twice.
So far, I've not had to have the brakes re-done on the 1999, and it's been two years, so that's pretty good. Plus, brake dust is WAAAAY down on the '99 Passat. Our 2003 Passat still gets TONS of brake dust - must clean the wheels weekly to keep on top of it.
I would guess that if a shop is pricing the brakes at less than $200 that they're not replacing the rotors. Even with after market rotors, my brake job still ran in the $500 range, if I recall correctly...
Hope this helps.
I just looked online to see if that part can be purchased by itself, but it looks like you have to purchase the entire mast and base and replace the unit.
That would mean removing the headliner to get access to the nut that hold the unit in and connect the cable.
Has anyone on this board had an antenna replaced at the dealership before? If so, how much? I found one post from 2001 where a guy said the dealership quoted him $600 for a new antenna. Yikes! Part of me is ready to put the split gasket back on and try some silicone to seal it rather than pay $600 to replace it.
I saw one post where someone mentioned going to a stereo shop to get them to replace the antenna. That's an idea I might check into.
I will stop by the VW parts store tomorrow to see if they do, in fact, sell just the gasket and if there's a way to replace it without removing the mast base. We'll see. But in the meantime, any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I'd apprecate some guidance.
Then there are 2 screws located under the front bumper along with a nut (11mm?) at the center of the front bumper. Then at the back of the skid plate are three screws, one on each end and one in the middle. I think a half turn removes each of those.
The skid plate will then drop down but shouldn't come off entirely. Once it drops, you should see the oil pan and the drain plug.
Also, to get to the oil filter, you'll need to remove the coolant reservoir. You don't need to disconnect it - just unscrew the screws and move it to the side to access the oil filter.
And I am sure others will reiterate this: Make sure you use a VW oil filter (should be a rather large one) and use 5w40 or 0w40 motor oil. 5w40 is available at NAPA and 0w40 at various places (I know Advance Auto Parts carries it).
I know when you remove the filter, a lot of oil comes out, so be prepared to soak it up with something. You'll see what I mean when you get it off.
Good luck, and let me know if you have any questions.
I used 5W30 oil, which my owner's manual lists as an alternative. Unfortunately I did not have a VW filter. I used a penzoil filter I bought earlier today. It isn't quite as big, but it does fit,> I won't make a habit of using aftermarket filters and hope this one will be okay until the next change.
Thanks again.
Also, be VERY careful about the oil you use, and keep meticulous records. VW loves to deny engine claims if you have deviated even in the slightest way from their maintenance recommendations. For that reason alone, I would be very wary of using a non-OEM filter in this car. Make sure the oil you use meets precisely the standard VW states in the manual for this engine.
My question is how do I enter the radio code. I have my husband's 1999 v6 Passat, I have the radio code but do not have the owners manual. Can someone tell me how to enter the code or where to find the directions of line. Thank you for your patience as I did not discuss oil changing issues but I saw you were online earlier today and seemed knowledgeable. Sincerely, Maggie
ps the tow truck driver left the lights on, the battery went dead when it was towed to the mechanic for new cv joints. It will be a great surprise for him if I can get this fixed today.
So thats what my impression has been. I would appreciate any input. I really love the car and was shocked to hear so many bad things about it. It seems to be more reliable than most VW cars. I also don't mind doing some of my own basic maintenance so hopefully that will prevent some dealership horror stories.
Thanks for your help!
anyone out there know Passat's? I have a 2001 and Have a OBD code of P0171 "Engine Too Lean". I've replaced the suction value and cleaned the air passage to the turbo (4cylinder). Car only has 35k on it and I'm frustrated that this this is occuring w/ such a new car.
HELP!
d
Good luck!
d
After a year, my 2004 AWD manual 4 cylinder wagon is just a pleasure to drive. After my last two Hondas, there was a short adjustment to the feel of the car, but the interior is beautiful and the sense of solidity is very gratifying. I love this part of it.
The downside is little maintenance details. A couple of plastic strips on the roof needed gluing down (under warranty) and the emissions system protested briefly during the coldest part of early Feb. after sitting out a week at night (new programming for the ECU probably fixed it, warranty again, happy since).
The other issues (oil sludge, only in 4 cylinder engines without synthetic; control arms; coil packs) are likely to be past history from 2003 on.
What will follow is never certain, but the car is just fun to have if you are mechanically informed and patient. Sorry to be cliched, but owning VWs will in my opinion remain thus until European car makers prove a new emphasis on reliability.
- Pennzoil-Quaker State European Formula Ultra
-Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula Ultra
-Valvoline Synpower