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Comments
Thanks,
Lonny
Thanks!
Thanks in advance.
A little after I left a gas station I noticed that my check engine light was on on my Passat Wagon '99 1.8T. (I bought only two weeks ago.) Here's what preceded:
1. As I was entering the gas station, I was almost hit by another car so I had to really jerk the wheel to avoid collision.
2. The only premium gas they had was 92 octane. This was in a middle of nowhere in SC so I had no choice of going to another gas station as the ‘tank empty’ had been on for a long time by then (30-40 miles).
3. Looking back, I believe the odometer must have crossed the 80,000 miles right around that time.
What do you think caused my check engine light to come on? One of these three things or something totally unrelated? I would appreciate any advice.
Thank you,
The scan shall tell....
Thanks for the tip about the AutoZone, bill1975. I'll first call a dealer to see if there is some required maintenance after 80,000 and how much it is. If there is nothing like that, I'll call AutoZone. (My friend's 2004 Civic gave him the check engine light when he crossed 10,000 miles - just to remind him of the 10K required maintenance. I wonder if this is my case too)
Thanks for the ideas. I'll let you know where this takes me.
rmaceyjr@yahoo.com
Bud
rmaceyjr@yahoo.com
We have a 99 v6 (29Kmiles) with similar story and cost. My 3rd party warranty will pay to replace the sensor ($200+) but not the damage from the coolant seeping up into the control module via the wiring harness. The outward symptom was a clattering fuelpump relay in the dash. Certainly didnt sound like that pricey a problem - leastwise no smoke nor pieces in the rearview mirror. First problem so far - guess it makes up for all the little ones we skipped along the way. A couple years ago wife noticed a burning rubber smell and mentioned it on the next service date but no problems detected.
Could this soggy harness be the reason behind many of the reported electrical gremlins?
Larry
I was actually just at a car dealership yesterday with my boyfriend purchasing a 2005 2.5 Legacy GT (a really nice car). Anyways, the guy selling my boyfriend the car mentioned that if he does not turn the gas gauge all the way (so that it clicks), the "check engine" light will some on. So if I were you, I would just check to make sure your gas tank is all the way closed.
I don't know if this is your problem for sure but it's worth a try. I hope you get it fixed whatever it is.
EmmaLee
Please reply and let me know if you're making progress with your local dealer.
Thanks.
I have a V6, 1999 Passat also. Every summer for the last 4 years I've had to bring my car in for the same problem: check engine light comes on, engine loses power, a/c stops blowing cold air and the car hesitates in a very hazardous manner. My annual problems started again last week. This problem only happens in warm weather and I live in New Orleans. I had the problem "fixed" last August and I'm about to bring it in again. I don't plan to keep the car, but I'm wondering if you've had any luck with yours.
The dealer told me last year that the heat causes an electrical short, in turn causing the engine and the a/c compressor to lose power.
This is because the water runs down your winscreen into the drip tray (under the battery) under the bonnet. When this tray drain hole gets block with dirt and grim this tray fills up with water, eventually the pollen filter for the cold air inlet for inside the car starts to draw this water in and sends it down all the internal ducting where the cold air comes out. It mainly has a tendancy to fill the rear footwell. It has been known to fill the front foot well - this is more of a problem because your main control box with all the important electrics are under that carpet and when that gets wet you electric (windows / locks etc) start playing up.
There is an easy fix. If you have small hands you can try and fumble blindly under the battery tray for the drain hole. you cant miss it because it has a very flexible rubber grommit in it. If you squeeze the grommet and shove a finger up it it should release all the dirt and water. It is easier to get at if you take out the battery - but remember your radio will need a code entering probably when you reconnect. Also when you wash your car you may find they drip tray fills up immediately if the drain hole is blocked.
hope this helps
As I said, this is the second time my rear rotors have warped, and the dealership didn't flinch about replacing them. The car has 33K miles.
Also, the guy who does most of the service on our 1999 V6 Passat is going to replace the antenna for me (gasket below the antenna mast base broke). He said it would probably be around $150 - $200 (including the cost of a new antenna base and mast, which is the only way to get the gasket). I haven't been able to get time on my calendar yet to get the car to him to get it done, but I'll update the board when it happens.
The dealership found the rear rotors to be "slightly out of spec", but because the pads are at "only" 35%, will not warranty the rotors. My front pads are 85%. This is hogwash (to put it mildly). A call to VWOA will be made tomorrow, followed by a letter to them and the dealership.
Also I was told the synthetic oil mandate now extends to the V6. I pointed out to the service writer that this applies only to the 1.8T engine. He disagreed, insisting that both engines now require synthetic. I called VWOA, who disagree - no service bulletin has been issued on this. He showed me the supposed service bulletin - it is merely a blue informational pamphlet aimed at the owners of 1.8T engines. I don't mind the idea of using synthetic regardless of engine type, but do not like being falsely told that I MUST do so.
I will not be returning to this dealer.
Is it considered bad manners to name dealers on this board?
Make sure your car is properly supported as you have to have the emergency brake disengaged! Also... If your having a lot of issues retracting the piston, try loosing the brake reservoir cap... (But be careful! if you apply to much pressure to fast to the piston, the brake fluid will overflow and possibly suck air back into the lines! Only loosen the cap if you can’t get the piston to retract with the force of the C-Clamp alone!)
I hope this helps......
-LordLost
Has anyone encountered this and does anyone know what can be done?
Mildew Odor causing more than just HEADACHES!!!!!!!!
How long are your trips?
What oil are you using?
Krzys
Also, I use 91 octane gas; I don't know if that's a factor.
My best-evers were a couple of trips home that averaged 35 mpg - summertime, wind behind me, no hurry.
If engine check light comes up it is rather for UNSCHEDULED maintenance, if you ask me. Solid light is non critical issue - very likely emission system including leaky gas cap as I found recently (warranty is covering new one).
What did 300$ dealer tell you about the problem?
Did you fill up car recently? Do you close the cap with 3 clicks?
Krzys
Scroll about half way down this page:
Einszett Klima-Cleaner
Excerpt from the Einszett website:
Don't mask odors with fragrances -- treat them. Klima-Cleaner is an effective means for removing odors from the air conditioning unit by eliminating odor-causing bacteria, fungi and other germs. Works by effectively cleaning the evaporator -- the source of the problem. Simply insert included spray hose into the center air vents in your vehicle's interior and spray. Allow to work for 30 minutes. Creates a healthy and fresh smelling environment that lasts for months.
In addition, I'd recommend a couple of things:
1) check the pollen filter to see if it's wet or moldy. Replace as necessary.
2) while checking the pollen filter, make sure that the area under that firewall cover is clean and dry. There is a drain hole under the battery that can get clogged and allow rain water to build up in this area. It could be getting into the car or the A/C system.
3) allow the A/C system to dry out before shutting off the car. The last mile or so before I get home is the time allow the A/C to dry out. I simply shut of the air conditioner with the A/C button, but leave the fan running. This lets the evaporator to dry. The moisture there promotes mold growth.
4) You might want to make sure that the floor carpeting is dry in all of the footwells, too. Just lift up the mats and feel around.
My 2004 1.8T is a manual shift, and there is no hesitation, but on the other hand I also have a 2005 Camry 4 Cyl. Automatic, and this vehicle has what's called drive by wire, which utilizes a computer not a cable when depressing the gas pedal. This drive by wire system has some hesation when you floor the gas, because I think that when you steep on the gas (floor it) it takes a second or two to get from the gas pedal, to the interface, to the computer, then to the engine. If indeed you all have automatics, maybe the Passat has this drive by wire system also. Hope this helps.
Thanks
NIKI1
He spent three hours replacing the antenna. He said he had to remove the head liner completely to get in to the area and do the replacement. All told, the final bill was $315.00. Estimate from local VW dealer was $500 for labor and $100 for parts, so that matches with what a previous poster had heard (which was $600 estimate). So, story is you can get it done for about 50% less. I am glad to have the thing replaced as I didn't like the electrical tape we had around the base. Though I must admit I flirted with just using some black high-temp silicone to seal it instead.
Hope this info helps if anyone is having to do the same. Thanks!
Seems like VW has QA issues. I'm looking now for an ACCORD !
Someone else mentioned experienceing this is a Passat GLX with the V6 engine. Since this car does NOT have the turbo engine, I am not sure why there is acceleration hesitation.