Pontiac Grand Prix: Problems & Solutions
Hallo,I have been owner of Pontiac Grand Prix`98 for a year and half now and with 68000 km I haven`t had no problems till few months ago.Then I had problem taking out key from ignition.If I would wait couple of minutes I would hear "click sound" somewhere in driving wheel and not until then I would be able to take out the key.
Several mechanics took a look into this matter,but no one was smart enough to solve a problem.Last of them even changed ignition tumbler,module,electric release and did coding,but unfortunately for me and my CDN$400, I still have the same problem.If anyone knows how to deal with this,please let me know.
Several mechanics took a look into this matter,but no one was smart enough to solve a problem.Last of them even changed ignition tumbler,module,electric release and did coding,but unfortunately for me and my CDN$400, I still have the same problem.If anyone knows how to deal with this,please let me know.
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the car will go forwards in 1st and 2nd but not in drive or Overdrive. I hope this does not happen to any of you, it's not fun.
Tobie
-Rob
No, I'm not running the AC and never had a problem when it was running. I read in the other GP forums that others have had this problem (other makes also)so it's not just me. Something about the evaporation unit???...
I understand it is or was a fairly common problem--something about the torque converter locking up prematurely which quickly fried the transmission. The dealership never told me what the problem was so I'm only assuming that's what it was. I noticed what felt like slight lugging under certain conditions and thought I'd mention it the next time I was in for service. A few days later I was by the side of the road.
It was replaced (twice) under warranty, actually rebuilt the first time by the dealership and when that went out on the way home they just replaced it. They helped pay for the rental car, a very nice Volvo 850 GLT.
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Had exactly the same thing happen with my Bonneville. The rebuilt tranny died on the drive home from the dealership. Luckily, both times were under warranty. They too said it had something to do with the torque converter.
But I loved that Volvo so I didn't mind too much.
Within the past year I have replace the alternator (failed), water pump (leaked) and installed its third battery.
I also have a power steering problem with the power steering not being smooth or supplying the correct boost for the different speeds or amount of turn on the steering wheel. Have an appointment for repair.
Maybe the car is jealous that I have been looking at new cars, but it seems to me to be a bit early it the car's life to have these failures.
WRT to other problems in this discussion, no water getting into the people tank thru AC, seals or otherwise.
I have a 97 Bonneville. 3.8 I had a similar progression, alternator, waterpump, and then the whining. It turned out to be the intake manifold which is problematic on the 3.8's. Unfortunately it caused my engine to seize. It's worth looking into if you have the 3.8, because it's kind of a silent killer. The whining kept getting chalked up to pulley noise every time we took the car in.
delcom - 5 years on a battery is normal
alternator and water pump - I guessing you have about 75K miles or more on the GP - that is also normal
Any details on how the intake manifold resulted in a seized engine? Coolant leak maybe?>>>>>>
Long story. Here's the condensed version. We knew the waterpump was going bad, and there was some loss of coolant, not a significant amount, and it wasn't external. Took it to the dealer because this was the second pump and it was a lifetime warranty. They fixed the pump and the squealing pulley. Said the plenum on the manifold was bad. There's a TSB out on this. Replaced the plenum and upper manifold. Drove it less than 100 miles and the engine seized. They're saying coolant leaked into Cylinder#4 and ruined the bearing. We're saying how did that happen when you fixed the manifold and we had no engine trouble previous to the fix? Now the car is sitting up there being autopsied and investigated by an independent investigator and we're waiting to see who gets to pay the $5400 for a new engine. GM is denying all responsibility for putting a plastic part in an area that is exposed to excessive heat, however have since replaced that part with a metal one as per the TSB. Currently there's a petition floating around with some 1000 signatures of people that have GM cars with this problem. I think it's Bonnevilles, Grand Prixs, Cavaliers and one of the Buick models that are involved.
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You know, it's tough to know what to attribute that whine to. At one point they tightened the serpentine belt, and it stopped, but shortly after that the engine went. Now they had tightened that belt before, and it stopped whining short term, but came back. Was it related, was it not even that belt? I don't know. I was just commenting on the similarity in the sequence of events. That and the fact that you have the 3.8 that is mentioned in the TSB. The manifold job, (upper plenum and upper intake) was $700. That seems to be the going rate give or take 100. I had 64K on mine. I looked at the petition and it seems to generally occur between 40K-70K.
Anyone have a good online reference for GP TSBs?
www.nhtsa.dot.gov has a recall posted on 11/6/02 for 97 Grand Prix's (on others) for rack and pinion problems. Notifications going out in Jan 03. Describes my problem exactly. Hard to turn left and over boost to the right. Have to wait until I get a recall letter to get reimbursed.
For TSB info, go to www.alldata.com. It lists all the TSB's for each vehicle. Has TSB number, date and brief title. At least a start to tracking down a particular one.
Anyone have anything similar, New or Older????
I have an appointment first thing this Monday morning at the Pontiac dealership for repairs-fully covered but already a pain in the a**- for the time and inconvenience. - this should not happen with a NEW car. I'll post on what the
problem was sometime this week.
I hope this is not a pre-cursor of things to come with this car- I had the 2000 Bonneville SE for almost 3 years with only 2 problems- incorrect brake pads and a bad driver side window motor- never did the" Service Engine" light ever come on or did the car run rough !!!
Chuck
Chuck.
This car was well cared for and had 57k miles when it bit the dust.
Anyone know anything about the petition that is going around about this problem with the 3800 series engine? Maybe if enough people get together on this issue Pontiac will decide to actually care about their customers while they still have some left.
http://www.petitiononline.com/mod_perl/signed.cgi?GMcnsmrs&1
but I would go straight to small claims court
good luck
My SES light just came on so I am going to have to take it to find out if there is a problem. Before I take it in for service, I was wondering if anyone found the valve noise to be a problem that should be repaired.
15K miles on it(really), and am not able to shift
into gear or pull the key out after it is shut off. Dealer says its the solenoid by the gear shift lever. Price $345. Dealer asked if anything was spilled in it, and the answer is no.
The car looks new inside and out. Anyone if GM
will warranty something like this?
They originally thought the sensor in the shifter
was bad, and replaced the entire shifter (can't
get just the sensor). After the replacement, the
problem continued, so they put the old one back in
and replaced a small solenoid near the ignition in
the steering column. Total cost is $245, cost of the
part is $108. Seems they could design a piece that would last longer.
My real question relates to rough idle during warm up. It warms up real slow despite a new thermostat a year ago. At stop lights when in drive during the first 5-10 minutes it idles real rough, smooths out when in you put tranny in Neutral. Car has plenty of pickup and does not stumble. It has brand new plugs. Does not throw any codes from computer. Mileage is good, 24 Hwy. Mechanics are stumped...any ideas of other things to look for?
I had a similar year Pontiac with the 3.1L. My car had the same symptoms you described. It was fine idling in neutral, but under load it would stutter. I ended up having 2 bad fuel injectors out of the 6. My mechanic told me to check the resistance on the electrical connectors and replace anything that read less than 12 ohms.
Just an idea.
Apparently there are problems with the intake gaskets on many General Motors cars of this era allowing antifreeze to mix in with the oil and vice-versa. I did price extended warranties... only to be blown out of the water. So my thinking is, with the potential of coolant making its way into the engine potentially, would it be safe to assume using synthetic oil such as mobile one would prevent seizing of the engine if that happened? Any input would be appreciated... peace of mind would be great!
BTW, been a great car so far. Coming from a 1990 plymouth acclaim with 100 horsies and a 3 speed auto with 150,000 miles, I think a Kia Rio or Hyundai Accent would have been an improvement! The Plymouth was a surprisingly reliable car that was easy to work on! I think my parents were just embarrassed when it was parked in their driveway when I came to visit with all of its rust!
Again, input on using synthetic oil to potentially head off engine failure from coolant getting into the engine would be appreciated!
I did forget to mention my parents had all kind of problems with the headlight assemblies... by the 3rd trip in, my dad sealed the thing with silicone or something and drilled a few 1/16" weep holes at the bottom through the silicone... condensation has not been a problem since. I've heard arguements this would somehow overheat the bulbs in the assembly, but both bulbs are original still with 50k miles. There is some problem with the foglamps... they go through bulbs at least once a year, and my mother hardly ever used them. Nothing looks more tacky than just one of the fog lamps working!
It blew a day later again. This time he replaced the fuel pump resistor, relay and installed the fuel pump resistor relocator kit. (original location was in the wheel well, too much water exposure).
It drove fine until a few days later the fuse blew again. He brought it in, checked all the wiring and couldn't find the issue. I mentioned could it be the fuel pump going bad? But he said no - it would be consistent.
Has anyone had this issue and if so, what did you do to resolve it?
Thanks
_Kevin_
(my post just serves to keep it from auto-archiving tonight!)
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Regarding the gummed up intake area (actually throttle plate area), it is a normal occurence. We haven't experienced it yet on our 2004 GTP, as it has only around 2K miles on it, but my 1997 Eldorado with Northstar engine got so bad that the throttle began sticking closed. That is to say that it would stick closed, but with enough pressure would suddenly open. It was a strange thing, as I never consciously noticed the sticking until one day I noticed I had gotten into the habit of repeatedly lightly tapping the gas pedal to open the throttle when starting off from a start. I think it took about 75-80K to get to that point, but now I clean the throttle plate area once a year now. Why not, it is easy and inexpensive, at least on the Caddy.
I used an old toothbrush and brake cleaner and a lot of rags. Be sure to open the throttle plate completely and clean the backside, too, as well as far in as possible. Clean around the throttle plate shaft pivot points also. Caution: Some cars have a special coating (Teflon?) in this area that is supposed to eliminate or reduce this problem, and are marked not to use carburetor cleaner, as it will remove the coating. My wife's previous car, a Topaz, had this warning but got gummed up anyway. I used brake cleaner, and it seemed to work OK, but I think there are special cleaners sold that will not damage throttle bodies with the special coating. I don't know if any GP engines have this coating, but it might be worth looking at before choosing a cleaner.
whirring sound (coming from the front of the car)when driving. It becomes more pronounced as I gain speed. It gets a little louder if I turn to the left. I've checked the tires, that's not it.
Does anyone know what this could be?
need your professional advice- when you can, please read the latest posts on the regular Grand Prix Board- regarding problems with the 04 Grand Prix Air conditioning not blowing cold - (bobinnj),Etc.
I posted a couple of times but i'm not a mechanic!
What do you think it might be?
Thanks,
Chuck.