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I did it on my LE for the DVD/screen it cost me less than $500...alot better than the $1600 Nissan wants.
Where is the wiring for the overhead DVD? My dealer told me it was not pre-wired. Is there a diagram somewhere that shows where the wires are, and which wire is which.
LH neg.=white, LH pos.=black, RH neg.=green, RH pos.=red. Now here is how to get the HU to think you have the factory, take the yellow/blue wire (FES ENABLE) and splice it to the blue (AUDIO ON) wire. All of these wires are on the same row.
The audio input is weak like the AUX jack so you will need to get a line level amp. You should find one for around $40 from P.I.E.
Sony IR headpones work with the rear controls ($16 on ebay).
If you need some more help post a email address and I'll send you some links and a wiring diagram.
The engine and trans are sweeeetttt to drive, too. I had some bad vibes with this vehicle early on, but after finally getting rid of the minor 1st year issues I'm way happy.
Scott and Soldaustin I empathize with you. Hope you guys get your issues resolved...maybe a better service department will help? Good luck...
I would love to have someone just ride in the back seat during our trips. I also agreed with an earlier post that my front console was replaced, now it is rock solid....meanwhile the back one bounces all over the place. Also, please give a detailed account of what was done dynamat wise..and did you use Dynamat or a substitute generic. Thanks
As far as fixing the resonance I'd say it was an 8 on a scale of 1-10 before and is a 4 after the fix. I can live with it now and likely wouldn't notice it if I hadn't of had the problem before.
They've ordered the whole overhead console because I still have some roof rattles that they can't kill yet. I think they may have forgot to put some of the foam back in when they reassembled things. For the most part they did a good job of putting the headliner back in. I'm going to see if they can adjust a few of the trim pieces that have some gaps where they meet the headliner when they replace the console...oh and have them wipe the headliner down to get rid of all the dirty hand prints.
The other thing they did last visit was replace the radio. I noticed this weekend they must of used a screwdriver to pry the front off because the paint is now chipping off the dash where they pried.
From my experience make sure you talk to the Service Manager or General Manager before you leave if you aren't getting the work done that should be. My last visit I was treated like I bought 5 cars a year from them just to make up for the week long hassle I got previously.
Sounds like some of you just have some really bad dealerships. I've had the brake and roof TSBs done with no problems, no denials, nothing. Just did the work at my asking.
By the way, do any of you have a sheet-metal creak from your rear gate? It's not the glass (I've found and eliminated those) but from the inside of the gate itself. My dealer says there's a TSB for it and they tried it, but it still does it some. I haven't wanted to pull down the headliner to find it. Mine only does it when I turn onto an incline and there's some body flex.
With that, I am not going to sit around and wait till the new design is completed. This may take a couple of years. Design , testing , tooling, manufacturing will take awhile.
I was investigating aftermarket but I have ABS. With new aftermarket brake rotors, calipers and pads may hinder on the operation of the ABS. Also probably voiding the warranty. This idea is out.
1. 41014-7S010 - 2 torque members
2. 40135-7S025 - 2 Boot Kit-Front
3. 41005-7S000 - 4 bolts
4. 41060-7S027 - Brake Pad Kit-Front
5. 40206-7S000 - 2 Rotor-Disc
I am glad I got the new Rotors but they didn't tell me I had them until I read the invoice when I got home. Also they reset the tire inflator monitor. They said I only had 30 lbs of air in all of my tires. When I went to Sears about a week and a half ago, I saw them put in I think it was 35 or more. For sure not 30 lbs. So where did the air go? One thing down one to go. The shake is very bad at 70-80 mph and I am worried about it. The tires are perfect balance. I have the 4 wheel align that sears did (all 4 were off) and this didn't solve the problem. It even shakes when slowing down at around 30-35 mph. (when brakes are not applied) I had posted that Sears felt I had a suspension problem since my tires are wearing so badly (3 rotations in 12,500 miles) but I just don't know. What else could cause a car to shake like this. My steering wheel really shakes hard at this speed, almost like a very bad balance job. Sears double checked a couple of days later when I took it back and they are dead on the money, all of them. When I hit bumps the steering wheel bumbs back and forth but Nissan said this is normal.
I took my Armada for 4 hour round trip today and it was flawless. Finally...I really enjoy this vehicle now. The engine and trans are the bomb.
As for China producing cheap materials, Nissan spec'ed it out, I'm sure the Chinese contractor only made the brakes (if in fact they are made in China, still no proof) to Nissan's specs.
gsp9700.com
I've been hearing that Stillen is going to make a brake kit for the Titan/Armada with bigger rotors, metallic pads, and adapters for the stock calipers so it won't be so pricey. Won't that be nice!
You're almost there soldaustin..hang in there man, you'll end up really enjoying your ride soon.
Yep, they were already turned @ 7,000 miles..Now they are telling me that my brake fluid is low bec' my brakes are low and need to replace the brakes they want me to pay. I already know they will probably have to do something with the roters again, cause I am getting the shaking of the steering wheel...
After telling them this is not acceptable, the brakes are on "Order"..
It has been a month, waiting for the brakes, my dash board is till lighting up like it is christmas.. I am still waiting for other parts ordered from 5 months ago, nothing..
The funny thing is, I do not drive it often, I live in a rural area, so I take the commuter bus to work..average drive a day, 4 miles and that is stretching it...
I am now looking at the tires for uneven wear..only time will tell.
In the meantime, I will be printing out all these suggestions...
I have had so many problems..My twin toddlers (2 yrs old) plicked off the antenna connectors in the back ($800.00). The dealer swears to remove the connectors is difficult bec it is welded.
Well, they must use bubble gum for soldering materal. If I even look at all the connectors in the back of this tonka the wrong way, I swear it would pop and blow up just by glaring at it.
I feel like an absolute idiot because I paid it off.
I would of rather spent that money on plastic surgery on myself...
What if nobody bought any of the first year new model vehicles? Would Nissan start improving their quality ASAP?
For the people who are having to replace the pads you might think about going with Praise Dyno pads. Very good and a lot of guys with Suburbans use them. Although it will not solve the problem of warping rotors.
Personally I think the 05's will have to be discounted too. People aren't going to want to jump in on them anytime soon until they know for sure that the QC has improved.
thats the descent control. LOTS of trucks and SUVs have this technology. it downshifts to keep you from going too fast down a steep grade. this is normal.
I'm amazed Nissan doesn't make a bigger deal about this feature. It's a major claim to fame for Land Rover, and I couldn't even find mention of it on the Armada site. Also surprising is that it would kick in during highway driving. Usually this is something that is driver-activated, and is used only for very low-speed, very steep off road descents.
I would be much more inclined to believe that either the tow-haul mode is activated (I haven't driven with it, but I wouldn't think it would downshift unless you were braking) or something's wrong.
Curious.
Sure doesn't sound normal to me. I'd be very interested in some sort of documentation showing that the downshift is an intended function. Just to verify, you did not have tow/haul mode activated, correct (I assume it's driver-activated)?
it is actually very prevalent among vehicles that may tow significant weight.
the honda pilot has it, as well as the explorer, expedition, excursion, and super duty f-series trucks (those with auto trans.).
the titan and armada have it. it is simply a gyro somewhere that tells the 'puter "hey...we are going more than x degrees down". then the 'puter automatically downshifts to save brakes.
On the other hand, several manufacturers offer a version of tow/haul mode, which holds longer before upshifting, and may downshift sooner. Again, I believe that all these systems require the driver to activate tow/haul mode. Otherwise, it would be very intrusive and annoying, not to mention the fact it would put a big dent in fuel mileage ratings.
Reguarding material quality, is anyone else's center console and the majority of plastic around people's feet scuffed, scratched, etc.? At first I thought I was just abusive, until I noticed the paint was almost completely chipped off of the steering wheel controls (I keep my fingernails clipped very short, ALWAYS).
I learned to re-appriciate my drivetrain, though, after riding in a TrailBlazer for 6 days while my truck was in the shop. This thing has some serous acceleration, exp. for being fullsized and only "305" HP (or is it 310 for the Armada?).
Anyway, does anyone know of a permanent fix for the windows? I've heard a few people with the same problem, but damn, one window has been off track 3 times (once breaking my window visor), the back two have both, twice, started to groan, and both fronts have gotten stuck in the door 3-4 times...
Of course Land Rover developed this so they didn't have to put diff locks on the 4wd system.