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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    actually, removing the filterbox is pretty darn easy.

    simply unclip the top, and lift the bottom of the airbox. It will pop right out.
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    Thanks for the info. I got the job done yesterday after work. I wasn't pulling hard enough on the box the first time. Thanks for the support.
  • dateachadateacha Member Posts: 13
    While on the topic, has anyone put in upwattage bulbs for the high beam, low beam, or fog lights? I'm in the process of properly aiming mine and this thread got me to wondering. There are brighter or different temperature H1 and H3 lamps out there. Which ones seem best behind the projector lenses?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    While on the topic, has anyone put in upwattage bulbs for the high beam, low beam, or fog lights?

    Unfortunately, you really cannot increase the wattage of the bulbs without either burning or melting the wires or the clips/harnesses. I've heard a lot of stories about brighter headlamps that end up going terribly wrong.

    If you stick to the stock wattage, you'll be fine. There are companies that offer HID retro-fit kits for the 6 that work well without frying/melting the electrical system. That may be something to consider...
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    I recall people going after the Sylvania Silverstar, only to get burnouts. And as you know to change light bulbs on this car is more than an hours job.
    I am still on Factory oem (55 months now) and I think they are good enough.
    I did however change the Fog to the more "golden yellow" true fog-lights from GE. I paid $20 to the mazda mechanic to get it done on the side.
  • cculleycculley Member Posts: 2
    did you get the lumbar support fixed and did it last? I have a 2006 mazda6 with 13,000 miles on and mine just broke.
  • isseyvooisseyvoo Member Posts: 121
    I had the same problem with my 2006. The first "fix" didn't hold (even out of the dealer's parking lot). They ordered a new "seat frame" under warranty and it's been OK since. They said it would have been a $500 repair if I'd had to pay on my own!
  • midwesttradermidwesttrader Member Posts: 291
    Last month as I was leaving work to go home I noticed that my check engine and traction control system off warning lights had come on. When I tried to merge onto the highway I found that the car had no acceleration. We're talking 30-40 mph in fourth gear with the pedal to the floor. I limped home and then drove to the dealer the next day. They determined that my throttle body had failed. After about $600 for the part and labor and a rental car I was none too happy. My car is about four months out of warranty.

    I called Mazda customer service and complained and within 24 hours they offered to reimburse me for the cost of the part (about $275). My bad experience was turned into a good one. Zoom zoom!
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Throttle body is covered under warranty.
  • birdbmwbirdbmw Member Posts: 4
    I wish to inform any potential purchasers of problems I have had with the above new vehicle.

    Having owned two previous Madza Diesel Sport models I ordered the new model on the excellent quality of my other cars.

    But on delivery in February 2008, I have since found having covered 3,000 miles.

    The detuned 138bhp engine lacks performance and drinks diesel at the rate on a long journey of 37mpg!!!!

    Mazda quote 50mpg average that must be with the engine on tickover.

    I understand the emissons have been reduced to get cheaper car tax that's why the car does not perform.

    The handbrake position has been moved to the oppsite side just because the gearstick has been bent by two inches closer to the driver.

    Being an ex Police vehicle examiner and class one driver the new position of the gear stick makes no advantage to the comfort of the driver whatsoever.

    At night the main beam headlights are useless the two beams are not adjustable and search the trees, I want the beams on the road surface to see where I am going. My headlights have been checked by Madza and they say they are correct this is total rubbish.

    On the Sport model there are 18"alloys the slightest touch on any kerb and you take a piece out of the alloy rim. The tyres size fitted is not common and they are around £135 each. My car is fitted with Dunlops tyres if I keep the car they will be ditched as soon as possible for Continentals. You do not have a space saver spare wheel again left out to reduce weight to improve fuel comsumption, what rubbish.
    Try fixing a blow out with a the box of tricks they give you on a wet and cold night on the M25.
    On a good point the body styling is better and the seats are a big improvement, but unless the points mentionned are fixed very soon I will be looking for something else and it will not be a Mazda.
  • riswami1riswami1 Member Posts: 33
    I'm assumming you live in England? Mazda doesn't sell the diesel in the states; so I don't think you'll get much feedback on your car here.

    What are you paying for a gallon of diesel?

    Sorry to hear you are disappointed with your ride. I have a 2007 with 2100 miles and the car has been rock solid.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    You do not have a space saver spare wheel

    We do in the US, there is a compact spare...and I believe free roadside assistance during the 3 year warranty period.

    Suprised the diesel mpg is not better, plus are you using imperial gallons? If so that would be a 32 mpg US...I get that on the freeway with the 2.3 L gasoline engine.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Can't compare your vehicle bird as it is not sold in the US.
    The US is not an important market to Mazda and for this reason Mazda does not update the 6 as frequently as in Europe or Japan, US model is still the same one that was introduced in 2002!
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    The US is not an important market to Mazda and for this reason Mazda does not update the 6 as frequently as in Europe or Japan, US model is still the same one that was introduced in 2002!

    ...as it's been in Europe and Japan as well.

    Since the NA 6 was introduced (in sedan form only), the 5-door and wagon followed for '04, new (and much-improved) automatic gearboxes have been introduced for both the 4-cylinder and V6, the entire line-up was refreshed in '06 with new front and rear ends, as well as a thorough interior revision (with a new center console and new-and-significantly-improved cloth and leather seating), and the addition of 18" wheels and tires.

    Last, but not least, you have the MazdaSpeed 6.

    Last time I checked, the amount of revisions and improvements to the 6 in the rest of the world has been proportionally the same as in the US. Yes, Europe and Japan have more engines to choose from and more options, but they have since Day One, and neither of them have a V6 option.

    If you think the US is "not an important market" to Mazda, then why did they invest millions to introduce the CX-7 and CX-9? Both are players in the crossover market, which is significantly larger here in NA than Europe and Japan, and both have done well for Mazda, with the CX-9 winning tons of accolades.
  • laser3laser3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Mazda 6. Just this morning I couldn't start the car. When pressed the immobilizer on the key, nothing happened. Tried the spare key but to no avail. Any ideas?

    Many thanks
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    Dead battery?

    Try your post in the "Mazda6 Problems and Solutions" thread. You may get help there.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Thanks, I moved laser3's and your post here. :)
  • bodohan13bodohan13 Member Posts: 3
    Guys
    I'm new here. I've had my Mazda for almost two years, got about 20000 miles. I hear a clicking/knocking noise from the front wheels or somewhere there. It even traces to the steering wheel. Especially on turns. Anyone had the problem?

    Thanks
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Sounds like a bad wheel bearing.
  • bodohan13bodohan13 Member Posts: 3
    Wow, just after less than two years? I'm a fairly careful driver, so don't think my driving caused it. Is that a common problem for Mazda 6?
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    I don't know if it's common. You should have it checked out. Bearings are not that expensive to replace.
  • bodohan13bodohan13 Member Posts: 3
    Yeah, I've got 6 years of warranty on the thing, so I'll bring it. I just hate to keep it at the dealer and drive some sentra. I love my Mazda. :-)
    Thanks for the info.
  • cementdrivercementdriver Member Posts: 2
    This is a WARNING to all of you who are thinking of buying a Mazda at Polar Chev/Mazda, in White Bear Lake, Mn.
    My wife and I have had nothing but problems with our 2004 Mazda 6 (loaded V6). It only has 11,600 miles on it and it is about to go out of warranty (4 yrs.) this July '08. Our biggest gripe, and there's many with this car, is the rear engine seal. It started to leak 6 months after we got it. They replaced it and soon after it started to leak again. Polar Mazda kept putting us off by saying, "we'll keep an eye on it and if it gets worse, bring it in before the warranty goes off." That's what we did and sure enough, like I expected, they won't replace the rear seal. Their excuse is, they're afraid Mazda won't cover the repair. Polar screwed up by not doing the repair right and it started leaking again. They are now saying the warranty doesn't cover it because it isn't dripping. The whole area is wet and it's only a matter of time b4 it starts dripping. It wasn't dripping the 1st. time they replaced it. I think they're also afraid of the lemon law. When I mentioned it to them, they became real defensive. I'm not through with them yet, I'm telling everybody I know about this dealership. They're not selling many cars now, so I think Mazda is cutting corners. I know I won't buy another car there. I bought a '03 Tribute there also, which has had many warranty problems. The Tribute is out of warranty and now the transfer case is leaking with only 43,000 miles on it. They both have the Ford V6 engine which was in the Taurus. I like the engine, I just don't like Ford's cheap gaskets. We gave our 1998 Honda Accord to our daughter when we bought the Mazda 6. I change her oil and the engine is still dry, no leaks anywhere with close to 90,000 miles on it. I could go on about the problems we've had with our two Mazda's, I don't have the time or room to tell them all. Oh yes, I have to tell you all about the 1st. "FREE" oil change Polar did. I always do my own oil changes, but as long as they gave the 1st. one free, I let them do it. When I got the car home it was dripping oil on my garage floor. I had to jack the car up and tighten the oil filter. They couldn't even do that right!
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    I'm sorry you've had such crappy service.

    I guess that's the difference between a great service dealer, and a poor one. I also have an 04' loaded 6s, and Delray Mazda in Florida has been a fantastic service center for me, this past 3 years. They've taken care of every fix, whether medium or small, in a timely fashion, and fixed correctly every time.
  • thatguy240thatguy240 Member Posts: 4
    i have a used 2003 mazda6. it was running great for the first month (i changes the oil then). but after three weeks the engine was making a knocking/rattling noise. i checked to see what it was and the oil was low. after changing the oil again the problem seemed to just get worse and now i have no car. i still dont know what is wrong but everyone is guessing the oxygen sensor is bad or the engine is going to die soon. any ideas on what the heck is wrong with my car?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I'd try another dealer and also contact Mazda. With only 11,600 miles your problem should be taken care of by Mazda, even if it were a little beyond the 4 years, IMO.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    How low was the oil when you checked it? Did you top off the oil?
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    Just get a new PCV valve, ASAP.. a stuck PCV valve will suck up oil and burn it....
  • thatguy240thatguy240 Member Posts: 4
    it was pretty low but after that i didnt drive it the next day i changed the oil an put about 4.5 to 5 quarts in it a new pcv valve does sound like a good idea
  • cas1957cas1957 Member Posts: 1
    Since purchasing my Mazda6 Sportwagon in March of 2006, I have had a very loud, annoying rattle when driver-side window is lowered 1". Dealer has tightened and adjusted loose regulator bolts, replaced window regulator, glass-run channel and applied weatherstripping, all to no avail. Now the dealer tells me this rattle is normal condition of vehicle. Has anyone experienced anything similar and what was your solution?
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    he has done nothing, but charged MAzda for warranty repair.

    Change the dealer or call Mazda HQ.
  • thatguy240thatguy240 Member Posts: 4
    any idea where i can get good parts???
  • uffdaoleuffdaole Member Posts: 37
    Looking for pc valve on 3.0 mazda 6. Is it necessary to remove engine shroud? TNX
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The book doesn't say anything about removing the shroud, It's at the end of a long hose coming off the manifold but the diagram isn't very good. I can't quite make sense of it.

    They do say that when you remove the PCV valve you'll probably break the locking tab and won't be able to re-install it, so it might be best to check it in place.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    for sake of better clarity and avoiding scratching your hands, you will need to:
    1. take of the shroud
    2. take off the intake manifold.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    arghh! They aren't making things easy these days are they?
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    nope.
    good thing is this is actually covered under extended warranty so I had the dealership also change the spark-plugs while they had everything open back there.
  • dmoore1234dmoore1234 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find an answer? I'm having the same problem and cannot find an answer anywhere. I have several leads, but nothing concrete. So far, the most promising appears to be the need to replace a PCV valve. Not sure what this is or why it would give the code. Second possibility is a O2 sensor. Again, not sure why.

    I have a corresponding noise in my car. At times, it almost sound like a diesel engine. It kinda rattles a bit. I've read a bad PCV valve may cause the engine to burn oil. Maybe I'm low on oil and that's causing the noise.

    Using a diagnostic code reader, it gives me two codes, both of which are P0340. The second one also shows what looks like a "pd". So it reads "P0340 pd". I can scroll down in the menu and several other items are indicated, but they are not codes. It says things like, "O2 SNSR", "Engr", and various others. Can any body help?
  • riswami1riswami1 Member Posts: 33
    07 4 cylindercalls for 5-20. Will running 0-20 Synthetic cause any warranty issues. I don't see how it could void the warranty?
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    I use Amsoil 0w20 synth in my 6, with no problems at all. Engine actually runs smoother with this thin oil.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I have no idea, but you would still have to follow Mazda's OCI schedule. I think they put almost everyone on schedule 2, which is 4 months or 5,000 miles. With this short interval, synthetic would seem to me to be of no added value over the standard semi-synthetic 5W-20 oil.
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    You can still follow Mazda OCI schedule with a syn. every 6 months or 7.5k mi. I'm out of warranty and doing a 1 yr.OCI with the Amsoil oil and filter. I think it will hold up fine for my mileage. ( 7-9k yr.)
  • andcalandcal Member Posts: 2
    I started hearing a knocking noise when reach 60m/h. In my case, it was the plastic tray under the engine that was loose and hitting on the ground.
  • djdavis516djdavis516 Member Posts: 1
    Is there a specific type of antifreeze that a Mazda 6 '04' has to use?
  • kaiserhead6kaiserhead6 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2006 Mazda6 3.0 V6 with the 6-speed Aisin automatic transmission that is having major shifting issues at high speeds. When the car is traveling at more than 45 miles an hour in 4th to 6th gear and I want to accelerate, the transmission violently downshifts to 2nd or 3rd and bucks the car around until the transmission shifts into neutral (safe mode.) The dealer has called Mazda HQ and has been told to do a line pressure test on the transmission. A software update was done a few weeks ago which improved low-speed shifting but made the high-speed shifting issue a constant occurrence. The high-speed shifting problem seems to happen more often when the car is accelerating uphill.

    Has anyone experienced a similar problem? Hopefully they can fix it, everything else about the car has been great. :confuse:
  • pianoman4jcpianoman4jc Member Posts: 4
    Anybody know of a repair solution for the plastic piece/connector that's on the tranny end of the "shift control cable" (it goes from the shift lever to the transmission). I read somewhere recently that it's not uncommon for these to break..

    Just wondered if anyone has successfully repaired one of these, and how ya did it. . Salvage yards usually don't mess with these, but Mazzzzzzzzz wants $86 for the whole cable assembly.

    "Quality cable/rod, but CHEAP PLASTIC CONNECTOR!! Thanks alot, Mazda engineers.......... :cry:
  • bartondustin99bartondustin99 Member Posts: 1
    hi i have a 2003 mazda -6 4cyl . i wont start whin you put the key in and try turn it on it wont start. and the dashlights fliker and the gages go crazy going up and down.

    1: i got a new batter
    2: changed the batter wire end's

    nether of thes thing worked can any one plzz help me with this .???
    i dont know how to work this website very well so my
    email adress is bartondustin99@yahoo.com and my myspace link is
    myspace.com/slagpot

    well hope someone can help me
  • krame00krame00 Member Posts: 21
    Hi there!

    I also have an '03. Bought it new, and still love the car in spite of its little issues.

    Several others on this board with '03s have had this problem, and it is usually related to the mechanism that prevents the car from starting when the clutch is not engaged (automatic transmission - not in park).

    I have a clutch - so whenever the car does not start, I just turn off the key, take my foot off of the clutch, and push it in again (sometimes I have to do this a couple of times), and the car will start.

    Those with an automatic - they merely turned off the key, moved it from park to drive and back to park again, and then the car would start.

    Sadly, I spent a ton of money trying to figure out what the issue was at the Mazda dealership - including the new battery and diagnostics - only to find out that I did not need that stuff.

    I will send this to your e-mail as well in case you are not able to get back on the board.

    Good luck!

    Khana
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