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A CP system CANNOT work as described by this product for the simple reason that for a CP system to work there must be present 4 things: an anode, a cathode, a metallic path and an ELECTROLYTE. The absence of any one of this items renders any CP system worthless.
Cathodic protection is highly effective in retarding corrosion in underground piping & storage tank systems, because they are underground (electrolyte), and have the other three components present. Cars drive on roads.
So, unless you plan on burying your car or keeping it under water, do not waste your hard-earned dollars on this bogus product. Trust me, I work in the industry.
Cheers,
Johnny
When did you go synthetic? I plan on doing my first change at 900-1000 to clear the crap out. Should I keep the Motorcraft oil in for one more cycle before going to synthetic? I too will go synthetic. Even if the added punch in the 2.3 is an illusion--well, sometimes perception is more important than reality
The 6i cartidge system worries me a lot. My local garage, run by two guys in their 60s, were amazed, AMAZED, that Mazda went back to this. They remember working on these cartidge filter systems years ago. I know that some Ford products use this engine but with a spin-on filter. I've been watching the other board, where some people report their dealers warned them of possible warranty problems if they switched to the spin-on (which seems to be perfectly feasible technically). I still can't figure out what Mazda's problem is with going this route.
I'd say 90% or more of the wearing/running in has occurred by this time (first 1000 or so) and you can safely switch to a *slightly* thinner and freer flowing synthetic, with much better overall protective and temperature properties.
Of course, if you have access to a garage, ramps etc, and don't mind the few extra $, ANOTHER 1000 mile oil cycle with cheaper semi-syn (Motorcraft or the excellent Castrol GTX 5W20) would not be a bad idea. An extra half hour of work doing the change, $6 worth of oil, and a $8-10 expense towards filter cartridge and gaskets.
As for the cartridge - yeah - it SUCKS. But the little Allen-Wrench nut-enabled drain hole on the bottom is nice to minimize mess. Make sure you replace BOTH oil gaskets - the big one inside the cartridge holder, and the little one behind the Allen Nut.
And analysis of the oil by Blackstone laboratories at the 6250 mark (removal of first syn) was excellent, and got better at the 11250 mark. So the filter can handle the 5K OCI when used in conjunction with Mobil 1 oW20. And I dno't baby the car - trust me on that
ps: addendum: the filter looked TERRIBLE with metal shavings inside at 1200ish miles, so don't let the oil sit in there much longer. I strongly disagree (and not merely on principle) witht he 7500 (or 5000) OCI recommended by manufacturers, at least for the frst oil change! The next filter looked much better at 6250, and almost flawless (except the color - all oil blackens within 500 miles) at 11250.
Reduces one step, but I actually like being able to see the ACTUAL filter element and gauging how the filter/oil/car behaved during the preceding interval. Of course, you can hack and cut open a normal metallic filter and look at it too - but its MORE work
Mazda does say on its website that it's not recommended. I hope there's no danger to the warranty in going synthetic. Is there?
I used to do all my own oil changes, tune-ups etc. myself. Did all that for a long timel but after losing one too many screws down the engine compartment and being reduced to furious rages I decided to give it up for good. I get to keep my blood pressure down, my wife no longer has to pick pebbles out of my back and someone gets to take home a paycheck. Everyone's a winner...
If you can find a place that'll change the oil for you with your raw materials (oil, filter, gasket) and you trust 'em, it might be an easy out! Make sure to tell them not to over-torque the filter cartridge or the drain plug, and also to not manhandle the cartridge during removal - its hard molded plastic and may be prone to gouging or rounding off of the surface, necessitating replacement down the line.
- allaying fears people have about the use of synthetic oil and
- convincing you folks to get early first oil changes
- Also, hopefully, more 6i owners will be convinced to perform Analyses of their Used Oil to add to the database of info that's starting to become available on the internet.
I would ignore the recommendation to wait a long time before oil changes (I did)
I would also ignore the suggestion to run dino oil for many thousands of oil before switching to synth. (I did)
I would also ignore the suggestion to flush before switching oil brands (I did)
My 6i went from the stock Motorcraft semisynthetic 5W20 that is factory filled, to Mobil 1 0W20 at 1250 miles, and (every) 5000 miles ever since. Better mileage, better wear (as proved by Used Oil Analyses performed each oil change since), better cold starts and idling, quicker smooth warmups, smoother revving in the high rev band.
Of course, all these improvements could be just an effect of the engine running in nicely, but I like to attribute it to the oil. Experts (those who analyzed the oil) and also people in the oil business (at various oil discussions) have (attributed it to the oil). Very, very impressive wear-in numbers for a small block, aluminium 4-cylinder, apparently.
First UOA: http://www.therealashu.com/auto/mazda6/UOA/uoa_11_4_03.pdf
Second UOA: http://www.therealashu.com/auto/mazda6/UOA/uoa_2nd_2_23_04.pdf
Blackstone Laboratories do a great job, for $20 a pop. I'd love to be able to compare the wear and running-in numbers from more 6i's.
PS: Yeah - the lab folks don't ever sound TOO enthusiastic about good numbers - its a legal thing I guess. Other oil discussion fora, on the other hand, have been very impressed. Especially considering the fact that I do NOT baby my car and it sees redline and quick shifts quite often.
You've saved yourself a year's worth of depreciation for your troubles, and get a brand new piece of an awesome car! What's wrong with that?
And where do you see a lot of posts about people getting repetitive CELs? I say one or two owners have this issue. On the whole - this is such a brilliant car to own and drive. I actually have to be talked OUT of driving to lunch everyday, and riding, instead, in one of my colleagues' cars!
It's one thing to say it's merely not recommended. It's another thing to say it will void the warranty. If this was an e-mail directly from Mazda, I guess one ought to take it seriously. I'm wondering if others have had the same response regarding implications for warranty--whether the company line remains the same whoever inquires. From what I hear, the Motorcraft oil is pretty high quality stuff if one continues to use it.
Yes, the codes have been 2404, P0300, (P0346 no one knows what this is...they are calling it a phantom code), P2107, (P2778 another phantom code which is baffling Mazda). Supposedly by replacing the PCM and doing all of the latest upgrades (29.2 & 29.3), it should have taken care of the problem.....NOPE it came on again Saturday....this time the dealership called corporate direct. I have no idea what the latest codes are. I'm happy that they are getting me a new car...but if they can't find one like mine...blue, fully loaded...then they were saying possible a 2004. Like I said yesterday....I was curious to know of any changes made etc. to that model. That's basically what I was looking for input on. Thanks for all of your reponses.
I still say its a one-off issue, and a new car will make you happy (unless you're one of those unlucky sods who gets hit by lightning repeatedly!)
And props on getting a fully loaded blue - that's the only way to go Of course, on an i with MT!
I disagree with ashutoshsm regarding the spread of this problem. There at leat 20 cases of Mazda 6 with CEL problems in my area. The same problem is reported for RX6 as my attorney is representing other Mazda owners dealing with the same issues.
I don't have the time or energy to argue with ashutoshsm over who's right or wrong as to the seriousness of the CEL issue. I know it's very real for me and that's what matters. I am taking the necessary steps to get a resolution. If he's not having issues...I am happy for him ....enjoy the car, I know I would be. What he must realize is that there are plenty of us that are dealing with it and we are posting these more frequently -- the trips to the dealership service department are proof enough.
The 6 is "Much Better Than Average" for its first year. That's better than the Accord (also in its first year for this refresh) and nearly all the other cars in its class.
So not everybody is having problems!
Hope this helps.
National Highway and Traffic Safety Administration announced it had received reports of vehicles suddenly surging forward and causing approximately 30 accidents. The vehicles under scrutiny are the Toyota Camry, Camry Solara and the Lexus ES300. The models affected are from the model years 2002 and 2003. Toyota confirmed the investigation.
Sorry,
Mark.
Mazda has released software upgrades and from reliable sources it has been known that most dealers have not updated their PCM reflash units with those upgrades. how is one supposed to fix the CEL issue without upgrading the software?
I have for example, a CEL that appears every now and then. I don't even care about it since I know it is for "cylinder misfire". The guys who designed the error detection software simply kept the tolerances too tight. I have never FELT a misfire, but still have a CEL. The nearest dealer apparently does not have the latest upgrades.
Who gives a damn about that CEL.
I just enjoy my car.
I do care about wasting my time going five times to the dealer.. they have overlooked my concern and now they have to deal with my attorney.
This massive problem will affect every Mazda6 owner as the sale price of the used Mazda6s will decrease due to these frequent problems. Who want to buy a car with a potential to become a Lemon.
-- Chicken Little
don't hide behind the "insignificant" CEL issue and misguide others.
CL
From your profile I inderstand you are a dealer mngr. If you could find the time to review my posts 925, 926, and 960. I have been having a clutch "judder" for about 8 months now. It feels like my front tires are actually hopping at times. I can never duplicate it for the dealer and have been told by several persons that Mazda is aware of the problem and a fix is on the way. I contacted Mazda through the 800 number and was told by the person that I talked to that they had no other reported problems and knew nothing about a fix. I have had at least one other owner contact me via email from my posting on this board with the same problem.
Mazda told me to go to another dealer for a "second opinion". I contacted my next closest dealer and they advised that I should return it to the first dealer until I'm satisifed. Mazda is sending me to a second dealer, the second dealer is sending me back to the first dealer... it's getting pretty aggravating.
Otherwise the car has been perfect. (Once I myself fixed the brakes for the squealing problem.) Thanks in advance for any help.
I am just writing to find out how much Mazda dealers are charging for a regular oil change across the united states. I live in Irvine (southern california) and the dealer nearby charged about $24.95 plus tax for an oil change and you will also get a complimentary carwash and some inspections on tire pressure, fluids, etc. They use Volvoline 10W-30. I just want to know whether I am paying too much for an oil change at Mazda dealers here. Plus, do anybody know about the 15,000 miles service (this is recommended for every 15,000 miles interval). The dealer here is asking for $59.99 plus tax. Basically, they change your oil, wash your car, change the transmission fluid, change the steering wheel fluid, change glow plugs if necessary, rotate tires, and tune the engine.
In addition, what is the recommended interval for an oil change. According to the manual, Mazda recommends owners to change oil every 3000 miles. Since I like my car a lot and wants to give it the best treatment as possible, I always change my oil at every 3500 miles. I have also seen a few of my friends change their oil at every 5000 miles interval. May you kindly share your opinion on this.
May I also know if there is any Mazda 6 owners who installs cold air intake on their car. There are many brands of cold air intake you can find on ebay and they cost from $170-230 depending on the brand. May I know whether they really improves your performance significantly or is it only a waste of money.
Your comments will be deeply appreciated.
One other quick question, is there a Mazda technical hotline available to the public? Thanks!