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Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles

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Comments

  • okayno77okayno77 Member Posts: 1
    My wife's car had same problem as yours. Disapeared once spark plug wires were changed. Although simple procedure on some cars, on Outback this can be rather involved (I found this out the HARD way), and you may do better to have mechanic do it. But if you're hardcore DIY, a description of this procedure can be found here: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_the_spark_plugs_on_a_2001_Subaru_Out- back_LL_Bean_with_the_30_H6_engine

    good luck :D
  • ppvalentineppvalentine Member Posts: 9
    after driving for 20 minutes my car starts choking and stalls. When I try to start it black smoke comes out the tailpipe. I have to let it sit for 10 minutes before it will run again.
    any ideas why
    P.
  • itrpdgrlitrpdgrl Member Posts: 3
    Well My car was doing the same thing! Once it got warmed up or hot it stalled real bad! I took it to a shop and it wouldnt read any codes. Come to find out I had a clog and had to get the feul system and injectors flushed.
  • ppvalentineppvalentine Member Posts: 9
    is that something I can do myself or how much did that cost
    thanks
    P
  • jwolf138jwolf138 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Grand Prix GTP. I changed the battery this afternoon and now the car will start, sputters a bit, and shuts off after about four seconds. I can rev up the car with the gas, but the car still shuts off after about 3-4 seconds. I had no issue before changing the battery. The electrical system still works after the car shuts off (radio, lights, etc.). I tried putting the old battery back into the car....same problem. I tried unplugging the power to my remote start on my car alarm....same problem. Any ideas...would appreciate any help. Thanks!f
  • elviaelvia Member Posts: 6
    2004 Volvo S60 suddenly dies in the middle of driving - engine slows until it comes to a complete stop. steering wheel begins to lock in place and car just dies. Re-started the car after 10 minutes and ran fine. What is the problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a fuel delivery issue to me. I'd guess fuel pump or quirky fuel pump relay. If you knew a mechanic he could show you how to temporarily by-pass the fuel pump relay the instant this problem occurs. If you do that with a jumper wire and the car starts right up, then you know it was the relay.

    Intermittent problems are tough because you need to have the diagnostic equipment right there when the car fails.
  • elviaelvia Member Posts: 6
    Thank You, I took my car to the mechanic this morning. He to feels the problem you described is the issue. He is going to change the fuel pump and sensor. I hope this works. I appreciate your help - I feel vulnerable when it comes to car problems. I'm so happy I found this site and people who are so helpful.

    Kind Regards,
    Elvia
  • gtpguy2gtpguy2 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 grand prix doing this as well, it's driving me off the wall. :Have you been able to fix your's yet? Mine will start in the morning then after it warms up it stall's it will start up but die again, then i have to wait for a few hours for it too cool down then it will run again. have you found a solution yet
  • hadoken54hadoken54 Member Posts: 1
    I've got an '83 Cav, no problems when driving typically. However occasionally it will cut off when I slow down a lot or come to a stop while still in D (automatic fuel injection btw), like just start lurching and then eventually come to a stop. It starts up again just fine, but then I kick it into drive and it just lurches forward and cuts off again. I notice the engine runs kind of hot too. Any way to fix this? I'm a student with little cash :P
  • elviaelvia Member Posts: 6
    Hi, I can't remember if I replied. My car was repaired - they replaced the fuel pump and he said we might as well replace the fuel pressure sensor at the same time. It runs great now! Good luck, with your car If you reside in the San Francisco Bay Area, I can recommend a great mechanic.
  • carrilcarril Member Posts: 1
    Does your car only die after you've been on a freeway or otherwise driving in overdrive? It could be a problem with the Torque Clutch Converter Solenoid. Check here: http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/bl306a.htm

    If it dies after driving in warm weather and the engine gets hot, try the Ignition Module or Crank Position Sensor. My '90 Buick Skylark is doing the same thing and I'm still working on it! Good luck!
  • allchevyjimallchevyjim Member Posts: 18
    My son has a 1995 GMC Yukon with 230000 miles. It is a smooth running and emissions compliant 5.7 liter V-8 at last inspection. Recently it started to idle erratically at low RPM idle (500 rpm)but only after the engine warms up. I replaced plugs and distributor and rotor. This did not fix problem. I then replaced the ignition module and still no change. I looked for vacuum leaks around the intake and found none. I have removed the EGR valve and it could not hold a vacuum with the diaphragm using a vacuum pump. The diaphragm would easily return to closed as the vacuum leaked quickly. I put the EGR valve back on, started the truck and tried to pull a vacuum on the EGR again. Repair manual says the idle should change and get erratic and it does not. Could this be a defective EGR? I looked up a replacement part on the internet and one version has a note that says the diaphragm cannot be tested by a vacuum pump. Seems to be inconsistent. I am stymied.
  • allchevyjimallchevyjim Member Posts: 18
    If I were you I would check and replace the coolant temperature sensor/switch next as long as you are throwing parts at it. These are reasonable in price at a local parts store. Make sure you drain some coolant first before removing the old sensor and replace the new. Top up the coolant and drive. I think you'll find this to be your problem as it fits the symtoms and for less than another $20 it is cheaper than running through all the aggravation of dropping your truck for service and a diagnostic test!
  • allchevyjimallchevyjim Member Posts: 18
    I decided to check the circuits out before buying any new parts and could really find nothing else malfunctioning. There were no codes set on the ALDL so I do not think any sensor or effector was actually malfunctioning from a signal viewpoint. So I removed the idle air control and found it really dirty. I sprayed it with some brake cleaner and wiped it clean. I also did replace the PCV valve although it seemed to be working (<$3). I took it for a drive and it seems to be free from the warm idle problem that I had. So it cost me $73 to fix something that might have been free if I were a little smarter, quicker.
  • bsumbsum Member Posts: 2
    Hello, this morning my wife's car shut off completely while she was going about 30 mph, she rolled to a stop and then it started right up. I had the starter replaced about 2 months ago. Any thoughts as to what this could be? She did mention that it usually takes 2 times to start the car in the morning with a cold start. Thanks in advance!
  • twosnooktwosnook Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone considered the Idle Control Valve? These stalling and greyhounding at idle could be as simple as cleaning this ICV. Replacing is a simple job.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Not a Nissan, but I had a situation where the car just shut off, and then it started back up and ran poorly with check engine light on. It was the drive by wire throttle positioning sensor (effectively the electrical sensor on the gas pedal that senses how much throttle you want to give it).

    Can't say that your problem has anything at all to do with it, there's probably a hundred things that could be wrong.
  • elviaelvia Member Posts: 6
    Hi, my car did the exact same thing, I was adviced by a very kind person on this website to have my mechanic check the fuel pump - that was exactly what it was! Good luck.
  • bsumbsum Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the responses! My mechanic cleaned the air flow sensor and replaced the starter for free. We'll see how it goes.
  • jjpcatjjpcat Member Posts: 124
    This car has 157k miles and a 3.3L engine. It ran well for years till yesterday. It stalled 5 timed yesterday and twice today. In all these cases, the engine had been running for about 3-10 minutes before it stalled. When it stalled, the check engine light came up. But I was able to restart and drove the car away.

    In cases 1-4 and 6, it stalled when I hit the brake. But in cases 5 and 7, it stalled when I was coasting at 15-35 mph.

    Any idea?

    Thanks.
  • elviaelvia Member Posts: 6
    Hi,

    My car has over 100K on it. When it stalled it would start up again, no problem however, before it stalled it would begin to decelerate (slow speed) on its own until it just stopped running. Our mechanic replaced the fuel pump and we have not had any more problems since. Good Luck!
  • ggadetteggadette Member Posts: 2
    Lincoln Mark VII 1989, great condition, New battery. Cant seem to figure out why it stalls, only while making left turns, and its about 80% of the time so not all of the time, and never stalls any other time. And starts right back up after stalling. Please help.
  • pmakkipmakki Member Posts: 3
    does anyone know how to set the idle on this vehicle? It idles at 1600 rmp in neutral, auto transmission.39,000 miles
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Check this out!

    http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/archive/index.php/t-171092.html
  • chevyman20chevyman20 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 1990 chevy beretta 3.1 v6 that lacks power when i give it gas i have changed the cat. converter and the fuel filter and it is still doing it. it almost sounds like something is blocking up after i press the pedal down so far. if the gas pedal is barely touched it runs fine
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Check fuel pressure. You may find that either the fuel pressure regulator has gone bad or the pump is going.

    Another thought is that the throttle position sensor is faulty. Unplug the throttle position sensor and see if the problem gets better. If it does, replace the sensor.

    Are there any fault codes? Check engine light on?
  • stash1stash1 Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 Chevy suburban vibrates when idle or at at red light. It has 52k miles on it and otherwise runs great. I have put plugs/wires on it, but it still has the tremor. It is slight, but annoying. I have also run Seafoam gas treatment, due to the fact that it started shortly after a fillup with 87 octane gas. I originally put 93 into the tank, but switched when it was not available here, or very expensive to get her after Katrina. I was wondering if I need to go back to a higher octane, or if the vibration is something else? It has been put on a scanner which showed no problems, not does the check engine light come on.
  • tayraetayrae Member Posts: 1
    Hi- My car has been stalling out in idle and while slowly driving for a little while now...I moved 1000 miles away in it anyways, though. On a donut, no less, thanks to some crazy circumstances. Now, it shifts very late and Very hard, in addition to stalling out a lot. So, I guess what I would like to know is, is there any point in even spending the money to fix it, or would it make more sense to just get another car?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well if you drove 1000 miles on a doughnut without getting the tire fixed, then I'm assuming you don't have much money for your car....so would suggest fixing instead of buying another vehicle.

    Who knows until you have the Cougar looked at....You may spend more in tax and tag transfer than it costs to fix whatever is wrong. What makes you think whatever you buy is any better than what you have?
  • michaelm5michaelm5 Member Posts: 7
    i have a 92 buick regal with a 3.8 that had the same problems and i replaced all the parts that were said to be the problem including the computer and all the sensors ,except for one. And that was my crank shaft sensor, and wala ,that was my problem. A code did not come up, cause it had shorted out and it read normal. That's the reason i spend so much money on everything else. About a thousand dollars worth of parts i didnt need, because it only cost me under thirty dollers to replace. hope this helped.
  • bcornstars03bcornstars03 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 93 Infiniti J30 with 180,000 miles. Always ran great, Ive kept it up nicely. Now this week it has died on me about 6 times. I am noticing patterns now that go like this...

    I will be driving and car runs great as usual, then my interior dash lights/radio lights/clock light all dim down anytime I hit my breaks. Sometimes my gas pedal becomes very unresponsive and car will stutter when I hit gas pedal. Then it will either pull out of its "funk" or will just shut off. My check engine lights, ABS light, Seat belt light, Air bag lights all come on in dash. Then the car takes anywhere from 1-6 times of turning over until it will start. My starter is good and has never been an issue.

    Does ANYONE have anything useful I should know??? :confuse:

    Thank you!!
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    It almost sounds as if you have a ground or charging system problem.
    This is purely a guess, but going on what you say.

    I would have the battery load tested and check to see if the charging system is working correctly.

    The other thing I would do, mostly as preventive maintenance anyway is to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.
    Check the ground connections and look for any corrosion or looseness.

    If that all checks good, then it is time to see what the computer diagnostics tells you. Have it scanned, Autozone, Schucks or one of those usually offers free diagnostic scanning. Don't buy anything until you are sure.
  • munkeystompmunkeystomp Member Posts: 1
    hey how's it going, i have a 95 probe(4 banger) and i'm not too car savvy/ i was reading an older post and i need some help because it's not idling correctly. originally it was just a rough idle at red lights, then the problem grew worse...

    now it goes in and out of running correctly, when it warms up the car stalls when i'm SLOWING DOWN past 25 or so or sitting at light. sometimes running the heat or a/c keeps it running. sometimes it doesn't stall at all(rarely). overall it's freaking me out and the prices of sensors and such pretty high/

    so i'm just seeing if anybody of great knowledge has answers/ :sick:
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Some common causes of those types of symptoms are a vacuum leak (possibly a cracked or broken vacuum hose), an Idle Air Controller (IAC) malfunctioning, problem with the fuel filter (plugged or partially plugged) or possibly a partially plugged catalytic converter.

    I would check for a vacuum leak.
    Easy enough to check. Visually inspect all of the vacuum hoses for any loose, disconnected or cracked vacuum hoses and replace the ones that are bad.
    If no improvement is seen, get a can of carb cleaner and start the engine.
    Be extremely careful working around a running engine.
    With the engine running when the condition of the rough idle occurs, spray the carb cleaner at the base of the intake, around the throttle body and at the throttle body shaft.
    Wear eye protection, as the fan could possibly come on and blow the carb cleaner around, which has a tendancy to end up in your face.

    If there is a vacuum leak, the idle will change. If the idle changes, stop.
    Let the idle return to how it was, then spray a small burst into the area where the idle changed. If the idle changes again, you have located the vacuum leak.
  • pmakkipmakki Member Posts: 3
    sounds like a intake manifold leak. Get a spray bottle and fill it with water and spray around the intake manifold gasket while running. If it steadies out, you found the problem. These cars are notorius for it
  • bido76bido76 Member Posts: 1
    check engine light on and when at stop sign or light car turns off
  • frustratedladyfrustratedlady Member Posts: 1
    I am new to posting and hope I am reaching dmaljunk or someone that can really help me. A post from you in 12/2005 addressed cold start problems on nissan maxima. Dmaljunk, Isee you had problem fixed. Is it still fixed or did you encounter more problems later?

    My car (2001 Maxima) started dying once foot taken off accelerator. Had MAF and TPS changed and now constant dying during cold starts. RPM gage stopped working after new parts installed and I believe code P0505 coming up ( idle control sensor) . Car started perfectly until parts were replaced. Now, I need to give constant gas and take foot of gas slowly for it to remain running then it is when cold, then no problems restarting unless it sits. Extremely poor gas mileage too. Started off w/ 375-380 per fill up and now 300-325 per fill up.

    Alternator and battery replaced a month later, so additional problems. Battery and brake light remain on until car warms up, hear squeaching at start and sometimes lights dim and battery is not charging, then suddenly you hear a click and everything is bright and remains that way until car is cold again. Do I need a new alternator belt?.

    This car has costed me so much $$$$$$$$. I hate to sell it and it is a simple problem to fix. Female desperate to have my car become more reliable, but cannot afford to continue to go to dealership, especially since they don't know what to do except replace parts and problems still not fixed. I see cold start problems are common in Maximas.
  • mypoorsunfiremypoorsunfire Member Posts: 2
    I could really use some help. My poor Sunfire is doing some really weird things lately.

    About a month ago, I was trying to find a parking spot when my car dropped below 500rpm, then stalled, with only the oil and battery lights coming on. I was able to start the car up again with no problems. The weather had recently become cold, so I put some gas line anti-freeze in my tank, and for a while, the problem went away.

    About a week after that, while I was driving, my car would not drop below 2000rpm. Even as I applied the brake, the car would not drop below 2000rpm, when it finally did, it then dropped below 500rpm, stalled out, and the oil and battery light came on. I started the car up again, and it ran fine, no problems. I used an OBDII reader to see what, if any, codes came up, but there was no problem codes.

    Two days ago, my city was hit by a cold snap that brought the temperature below -36 degrees Celsius, and my car did the same thing again. I put gas line anti-freeze in the tank again, and that seemed to help until today. On the way home from work, my car did the same thing, first it would not drop below 2000rpm, when it did, it would drop below 500rpm, stall, and the oil and battery light came on. This time I put some fuel injector cleaner in my tank.

    Now my car idles at 500rpm, and my instrument panel lights and heater seem to loose a small amount of power at 500rpm. Sometimes my car will jump up to 1000rpm by itself, then slowly go back to 500rpm, but now it doesn't stall.

    My car, up until that first problem, has never idled below 1000rpm. I have no idea what's going on, but I could really use some help.

    Thanks!
  • mckenzkjmckenzkj Member Posts: 1
    My 95 5.7L misses in gear at idle (Auto trans). Off idle is fine no problems. I checked the resistance of the IAC and it is within the tolerances specified in my repair manual. Jumpered the ADL connection and flashed for codes. No codes other than the code 12 handshake. Two weeks prior to this problem starting I had to remove the intake manifold to remove a very corroded and busted heater hose connection at the rear of the manifold. At that time I also replaced, plugs,wires,cap and rotor. Engine ran fine until the idle miss appeared. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  • autotec51autotec51 Member Posts: 1
    try removing idle air control motor @ cleaning off soot @ carbon both on IAC
    motor @ in throttle body.
  • burbbmanburbbman Member Posts: 1
    My truck starts great, runs smooth and were still on the original trans. However, a few symptoms have cropped up.
    1) Service Engine Light comes on, then turns off. Diagnostic points to running lean. 2) When shifting into reverse, truck will stall whether it's cold or hot. 3) When stopping at a traffic light or stop sign, the rpms will drop then rebound quickly back to normal. Sometimes it will stall but then start up quickly. I had new plugs, wires, fuel filter and sending unit put on recently. The service garage said they will need to keep the truck for a couple of days to pinpoint what the problem is. Does anyone have any words of wisdom, what to check first before dropping off at the garage?
  • bellywitchbellywitch Member Posts: 2
    Good afternoon:

    I have a 2001 Kia Sephia 1.8L 4-cyl sedan. For the past 3 months, I have been having the following problems:

    RPM's are skyrocketing when I first start the car in the morning. (I don't actually have an RPM guage, but you can hear and feel it)

    The idle at stop signs/red lights is very rough.

    It stalled on me for the first time today moving at a slow speed in a parking lot.

    So far, we have changed (in the following order):

    Oil and Oil Filter
    Air Filter
    Spark Plugs/Wires
    Fuel Filter
    PCV Valve

    I'm stumped. Any brainstorming would be appreciated.

    Thanks so much!!!!
  • cavalier14cavalier14 Member Posts: 4
    2/25

    I have a 2002 Cavalier Z24 with just under 100,000 miles on it. I went out to move it last night, and it was misfiring on (at least) two cylinders. The engine was shaking pretty badly when I looked at it. It wants to stall anytime I'm not giving it gas. Also, when I go to pull out from a stop sign, it wants to stall. It seems that whenever i put a load on my engine, it wants to stall. For exaple, it stalled when I went to back into my driveway (which is on a VERY slight hill) as soon as i put it into reverse. My dad, who is a mechanic by trade, said I got water in/around the engine and it's grounding out the cylinders. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

    2/26 Update
    After pulling my car in the garage overnight to try and fix the problems i had earlier (refering to post above), the stalling seemed to go away. I simply turned the heater to about 72 in the garage, took off the cover that hold the module, etc. on the top of the motor, and aimed a fan on certain areas. Let's hope this fixed the stalling. My new problem is, I went to start it up after i put it all back together and as my idle was coming down after starting it, my "Check Gauges" light came on and my fuel gauge slowly dropped to below E. I have a full tank of gas in the car, no doubt about it. My dad now thinks the ECM is beginning to die, as all these things are quite random and never happened before. Any help or advice from ANYONE would be appreciated greatly. My email is BassMasterGoo@aol.com if you want to send me an email with ideas. Thank You! :confuse:
  • bellywitchbellywitch Member Posts: 2
    Update: I decided that it wasn't worth the cost of parts....got rid of the Kia and got a Chevy truck.

    Thanks anyway!!! hehe
  • hustla_365hustla_365 Member Posts: 6
    I haven't had any serious problems with my car until yesterday, I had just pumped gas and left the station. When I began slowing down at the red light, my car stalled out on me. I pulled it over and started it right back up and didn't have any more problems but this morning when i went to school, I slowed down and it stalled again!!!! Can anyone help me with this, also, I've been having minor radiator problems, would this affect it????
  • hstandehstande Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 Buick Regal that the engine would just stall when you turned on the turn signal. Turn of turn signal and would restart. Then it started where the entire dash board lights start blinking and go crazy and the engine would lunge when you started it and then end of dieing. Any one have any ideas?
  • 01s80t601s80t6 Member Posts: 2
    My 2001 S80 T6 with 75k miles died again today, for the third time and it happened while going low speed, in a parking lot, when it hit a very small dip in the road (like those drainways they put in the parking lot to help the parking lot drain when it rains). Thinking back at the other times that it died. It always happened low speed hitting a small dip in the road, not coasting but slight pressue on the accelerator pedal to get out of the dip.

    When it dies, the car starts right up soon after.

    This is a serious issue because I almost got rear ended the last time this happened. All the lights come on the dash and the steering wheel locks up. I can't do anything but quickly press the hazzard and hope no one hits me.

    The warranty is with Carmax, it's been there twice. they couldn't duplicate the problem, they sent it to the local Volvo dealership on the second time around and couldn't duplicate it either.

    The other night I did high speed runs on the freeway, stop and go traffic, and I hit several other dips in the road at 25-30 MPH to try to duplicate it but it doesn't die out.

    No DTC codes come up and the car starts right after.

    VIN Check shows the ETM was upgraded:

    SERVICE CAMP 155 Credited 4/19/06 36004 Software control module
    30785453-9 ETM/ECM P UPGRADE 55221 5127 BOZZANI MOTORS

    I checked the battery connections in the trunk and all the grounds that I can reach under the hood. They are all tight. I also checked most of the connectors I could reach. Lot's of the wire loom is brittle and cracked when
    squeezed. I saw a thin pair of yellow and black wires bare, no wire loom. I could see it but could not reach or see where it begins or ends. Its above the transmisison housing. It seems like its coming from a larger pair of wires underneath the airbox. It's just odd that it's sitting there above the transmission housing. I checked the underhood fuse box. no blown fuses. I didn't check the trunk or interior fusebox for fuses though.

    Just for the heck of it. I looked to see where the fuel filter was. It's underneath the right side rocker panel. I don't think it's ever been changed. The quick connect has some play so I slid both connecting ends toward the filter. Should I change the fuel filter, It's cheap DIY fix and if it doesnt solve it, one less maintanence thing out of the way.

    What are the usual suspsects? Agian this is a serious safety issue and it happens intermittently and neither Carmax nor Volvo can duplicate it.

    Thanks
  • scubbsscubbs Member Posts: 1
    i have a buick 92 park ave ultra that died on me at the mall after being parked turned key over and nothing just dead lights turn on then dead no crank baught new battery and still nothing so i get it towed to my buddies shop and have everything from A to Z checked out all fuzes good ignition key is turned to on all lights on turn key to start (crank) nothing and no lights on so we find out that there is an engine mount brocken and caused the engine to sit on top of a wire coming from the firewall the wire was cringed and caused a short so we replaced the wire and ignition module and now the car starts fine with no problem except for the engine kill the car starts and idles for 2 sec then shuts off we have no idea on what could be causing this except for the factory antitheft witch might be turning it off the manual only explaines how to disarm the antitheft by using the factory radio witch i do not have anymore is there any ideas on how to disarm the factory antitheft with out radio or going to dealer or on what could be the problem here thanks
  • smtdrsmtdr Member Posts: 1
    Did you fine the problem to he turn signal problem?
    I have a 2003 buick regal doeing the same thing.
    When I put the turn signal on the engine stall.
    Dash board light blnk on and off when turn signal is on also at times.
    Please help doen't know the roblem.
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