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Of course! Actually, while my TDI is a symbol 18, a 2.0slow Jetta was only a symbol 15 which is much closer to any other similar car. The 1.8T was a symbol 19. I believe a Trans-Am (at that time) was also a symbol 19. I'm just listing what I remember from when I bought my TDI. I'm old enough to not care about insurance, but was quite surprised when the bill came so I talked to the agent about it. He reassured me he had it right in the computer and he wasn't sure why a 90hp car would get such a high rating either. If they only knew I've bumped mine to over 115hp..... :P
When I had this problem I posted there and got an answer very quickly and the response agreed with the dealer's inspection. Sorry I cannot remember what it was, but it was some type of sensor that would not allow the boost to work - essentially, you are non-turbocharged when this happens. Stopping/restarting the engine resets the sensor. I think it will get progressively worse (start happening more often).
Good luck.
Here is a list of possible solutions from the diesel board at vwvortex - you might want to post a new query tho, b/c this info is from an older post:
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Your car is going into limp mode. This happens when it sees too much boost, so it cuts the boost altogether. Maybe fueling too, but I am not sure about that one. It is reset each time you switch off the ignition. Thats why the problem seems to go away upon restart.
There are several things that can cause this. Most likely, the variable vanes in the turbo are sticking in the full boost position (due to soot buildup in the turbo). So while puttering around under normal acceleration, the ECM doesn't see crazy boost levels, so it thinks all is fine. But when you punch it, the boost spikes too high and the ECM shuts it down so as not to blow up your turbo. The best way to see if your vanes are sticking is to try to move the actuator rod on the turbo. There is a vacuum diaphragm that controls it. Look for the vacuum line that goes down to your turbo to see where it is located. If you cant move it by hand, try unplugging the vacuum line from the N-75 solenoid & apply vacuum. Either with a vacuum pump or just use your mouth. You can provide enough suction to move this rod yourself. Make sure it moves freely. If not, lubricate the area with a good penetrating oil.
A second possibilty is your N75 valve has failed. This is what controls your turbo. It is not a common problem, but as with all electrical parts, it is possible it is no longer functioning. You can try to swap your boost control solenoid with your EGR control solenoid as a temporary test. The parts are very similar, so can be swapped to trouble shoot, but they do have some differences, so it should be used only as a test. AT least it will save you the cost of buying a new N75 valve if it is not the problem.
A third option is that your intake is plugged, restricting the airflow. this restriction does not allow the compressed air to move fast enough into the engine, causing the higher than usual pressures before the restriction. This is a common problem here in north america because we use diesel that is more dirty than yours. 500ppm of sulfur IIRC. But since your diesel over there is supposed to be much cleaner than ours, I do not think option #3 is your culprit.
Try to see if either of the first two help out & well go from there. Oh, one other thing. Before going through all this, contact someone who has a code reader or Vag-com to get the code stored in your ECM. It will probably read something like 'Charge Pressure Deviation' or something similar. If you can't contact someone who can retrieve the code for you, you may have to go to the dealer. Some will do it for no charge (it only takes 3 minutes), some will do it for a nominal fee, and others will charge a full hour labour to do it. It depends on the dealer & how customer friendly they are.
Good luck & let us know how it goes.
Thanks for your response. Thrust sensor did not correct the problem, and 2004 Passat TDI is back at dealer. I printed out you info and will pass it on to the dealer. The problem occurs mostly on hot days, temperature greater than 85 F.
Thanks again.
Is there anything I can do to fix this lack of power? It didn't feel like the engine was struggling or anything but was just some sort of computer setting. Would a chip fix this?
The nice thing about the TDI is the broad torque range. For comparison, my WRX (gas turbo) does nothing until 2800rpm....but it's also a manual so you can rev and launch.
I completed the oil change no problem; however, I am not sure how to empty the fuel/water separator. Can anyone guide me on how to do this? Here's a couple of questions -
1) Is the fuel/water separator located on the right side of the engine next to the oil filter housing?
2) If it is, is it a black canister with 4 hoses connected to the top of it?
3) On the bottom, I see a white plastic wheel that looks like it can be turned.
4) If this is it, it looks like the canister is held on to a metal arm with some type of torx screw. Does anybody know the size and will it fit on to a ratchet?
5) Should I take the screw off to lift the canister to turn the plastic wheel?
6) Will diesel fuel come out of the canister if I turn the wheel?
I appreciate all who answer. Thanks in advance.
Also - what is "tip lag"?
Thanks
Works for me. I'd like to learn what works best for the rest.
i've looked at two other VW forums (fora?) and have not found the thread to which you refer but i'll look for some others. wink wink nudge nudge say no more. funny enough, on one of those other VW forums i found a discussion about the next-gen version of my other car, pontiac GTO. sometimes i've got the need for speed/acceleration, other times i've got the need for diesel mpg
in diesel price news, it's nice to see the price of diesel *almost* as low as the price for regular unleaded here in new england and in some other states on I-80...
1) I do notice it seems to be better if I keep my speed to 70 or lower, but I still can get 38 mpg at 75. Does that match your experience?
2) Will my mileage improve after the engine is broken in?
3) I "drive" it like I drive gasoline cars -- I turn the key, start and go. Of course, it's 100 degrees here in PA. Should I be waiting 5 seconds or watching some glow light?
4) I got the GLS for $23,677 before tax and tags. How did I do? That was $1800 less than the first dealer I spoke to. Once I got below invoice, I stopped shopping. I also feared that the TDI supply would dry up.
5) Can I play MP3 CDs in the Monsoon, or just conventional CDs?
Thanks! I look forward to joining the legion of loyal VW drivers.
Historically, the TDI engines have been quite tight when new. Performance and economy goes up after 5k-15k miles.
3) I "drive" it like I drive gasoline cars -- I turn the key, start and go. Of course, it's 100 degrees here in PA. Should I be waiting 5 seconds or watching some glow light?
No need to wait in the summer, but when temps start dipping you might start making a habit of waiting. The glow-plug light should just blink right off if warming isn't needed. I have three diesel vehicles and pretty much catch my self waiting to start every vehicle I own I'm not sure how fast you throw it in gear after starting, but you really should wait maybe 5 seconds or so at the least. It's very hard on a transmission (any vehicle) to be thrown straight into gear before pressue is brought up. I usually start car, then put on seat-belt, etc. before going into gear. Just a little tid-bit.
Fuel mileage on the highway has been 38mpg (trip meter reading, with 3 people, packed to the roof with baggage).
Two people and some baggage, 40-42 (lower with headwinds, higher figure neutral). Actually measured, not trip meter readings.
Trip meter is a .2 to .5 high on the highway, and 1.5 to 2 mpg high in town (assume the algorithm has a harder time calculating right with frequent speed changes).
It should get better after full breakin, uncertain on the Passat with its special break in oil (imprvoed very fast intitialy), but typical 10-15k in a diesl will max out.
Under 70 is best economy range, though I have had the higherest reading in town, very early moring, 35-40 mph speed limits and hit all the lights, computer reading of 43.5 mpg.
Do not wait for light, as it does not acivagte at high temps. Read manul for low temp ops (40 degrees and below I believe).
You can increase mielaege with some tricks, put in netural and coast to stops as far in advance as you can (it maintains speed very well on the level), coast down hills, turn engine off if waiting for more than 30 seconds at hte light (also in manual).
John
Strictly on the turnpike at 60mph, I get 45 mpg readouts. On my whole commute this AM, including miles before and after the turnpike, it was 44 mpg. I never exceeded 60 and accelerated gently.
At 70 mph, mileage drops to about 41. At 80 I can still get 38. This is no luggage and just me in the car.
Regarding coasting: of course, the car consumes less gas idling in neutral than it does in gear. Before the Passat TDI, I drove a 5-speed and had downhill backroad spots in my commute where I would step on the clutch and coast for a half mile or more. But of course, taking your foot off the gas in an automatic (the only available trans for the Passat TDI) creates a drag. That is useful when approaching a stop, since it saves on brakes, but otherwise a waste of momentum. It is simple to shift into neutral and coast, but here is my question:
Is it not hard on the auto transmission to pop in back into "D" when you are going about 40 mph? Might that shorten the life of the trans?
And, in Tiptronic mode, is there any way to go from 1,2,3,4,5 into N? :confuse:
Actually, that's not true. When you push in the clutch or coast in neutral, the engine burns fuel just as if it was idling in the driveway. When coasting in gear, the motor is actually turning with the transmission and not burning fuel. I was skeptical a few years ago when I first heard this, but confirmed with VAGCOM software hooked to my TDI. If I coasted in gear, the fuel injection drops to 0g/second. At about 10mph, there's not enough power available to maintain and the injection will kick back on. When idling or coasting in neutral, it runs at about .9g/sec. Turn the A/C on while idling and it consumers 1.2g/sec. (i believe those are the right numbers, it's been awhile.... )
Now is this true just of the TDI? Or all cars?
Izzat true?
If I ever come acrossed a gasser VW I can hook my VAGCOM to, I'll find out the difference in idling. Diesel doesn't use much fuel when idling, but I really don't know how to compare. Diesels are typically smaller displacement than similar powered gassers, so I would thing pound for pound they could burn less fuel. I dunno really though.
as for driving a 5-speed and stepping on the clutch & coasting, if anything that is more counterproductive and wasteful of fuel than doing it with an automatic/slushbox. for the passat tdi it's an smg transmission not a slushbox so you are doing essentially the same (wrong) thing.
also your "but of course, taking your foot off gas" comment seems to be equally wrong. however your third item, a question about the auto trans, is a better one. so you don't get a "three-fer" of wrongness for your post ! go for it next time if you dare - what other wild & wacky driving techniques do you have.
to answer your question: IF volksy programmed & designedtheir trans properly, it should be fine to go in and out of neutral at any speed. however that's a big IF - you may be aware of the BUCKING issue on these passat TDIs - they all do it - but the gassers do not - i consider it an indication of a design/programming flaw.
as for the final question, a way to go from 1,2,3,4,5 to N, that's a good question, i have actually wanted to do that on rare occasion such as stopping in a parking lot. but not for the reasons you are doing it.
happy & safe motoring to ya! if you are going to use driving techniques wasteful of fuel, at least you are doing it in a diesel and wasting that much less fuel ! you go!
How would that be different from idling in neutral at a stoplight? Either way, the engine is idling and the transmission disengaged.
Can you elaborate? The clutch is disengaged, hence no friction or wear on the clutch. What is the throw out bearing, and how would this driving style affect it? I drove my 5-Speed Legend 200,000 miles using that technique. And never once had the clutch serviced.
Appreciate your insights.
as for driving a 5-speed and stepping on the clutch & coasting, if anything that is more counterproductive and wasteful of fuel than doing it with an automatic/slushbox.
also your "but of course, taking your foot off gas" comment seems to be equally wrong. however your third item, a question about the auto trans, is a better one. so you don't get a "three-fer" of wrongness for your post ! go for it next time if you dare - what other wild & wacky driving techniques do you have.
I am happy to learn from others here. It's good stuff.
Sebring made the case as to why a car coasting in gear uses less fuel than one out of gear.
However, you have to judge the circumstance, no? If you are intending to slow down (for a light, toll booth, etc) then it makes sense to take full adavantage of engine braking while also saving fuel. But if your intention is to maintain momentum and let gravity work for you, coasting out of gear is going to cover more distance on less fuel than coasting in gear and suffering engine drag. Now, it still may be a bad habit in the Passat if there is some science to demonstrate that it is harmful to the car to go in and out of neutral while moving.
There are a multitude of discussions on this and related topics in other forums. So as not to offend our host, I suggest doing an Internet search if you are curious.
Information not contained in other forums is also available, and I'll provide some samples for your review.
This one address the practices of shifting an auto into neutral at traffic stops and holding the clutch down at traffic stops.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_clinic/1675807.html?page=2&c=y
This one addresses a warning in the operators manual for Allison automatic transmissions. See page 7. I assume the torque converter style Tiptronic is similar.
http://www.allisontransmission.com/servlet/DownloadFile?Dir=publications/pubs&FileToGet=OM- 1334EN.pdf
Tom and Ray seem to expound endlessly on this topic, and here are some samples of their offerings.
http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1996/September/05.html
http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1994/May/07.html
http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1995/March/18.html
http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1995/November/09.html
http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1993/April/10.html
http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1995/October/07.html
Bottom line, as already pointed out, the practices of coasting in neutral and coasting with the clutch down are both illegal. That may explain why DKW 3=6's and Rambler Americans with freewheeling overdrives are no longer made.
Much appreciated! I had heard some of these things before, but always second-hand. And I figured they were as reliable as "don't go swimming after you eat" and "add ten pounds of tire pressure for long trips."
Consider me educated on this topic, even though I logged over 400,000 miles between my Civic and my Legend and never had an issue. My two cars are hardly a statistically valid sample.
1) Should I go for the new 0W/40W from Mobil for better fuel economy?
2) Is every 10,000 frequent enough? I am driving mostly highway. Very little stop and go.
:confuse:
Who's right?
Further, they go on at length about fuel and fuel additives. With gasoline motors, I have found every fuel additive to be a waste of time and money, except for drygas in the winter.
Do you put cetane or other additives in your diesel fuel?
Some folks use the additives religiously. I have a good fuel source I always try to use and I don't use the additives. I do carry some with me in case I have to fuel at a questionable spot, particularly in the winter. If it's somewhere I'm not familiar with, I'll use the additives as insurance. I'm coming up on 130k miles and have had very few problems with my TDI.
I live in the Philly suburbs, with lots of high-volume gas stations -- Sunoco on the turnpike, Amoco, Exxon, Shell, Texaco, etc. I want to avoid the no-name place in the middle of nowhere, same as I did for conventional fuel -- but what else?
Easiest way if you can't find out who carries the premium fuels, is to fuel at different places and see which one makes the car run better. If it gets cold and you don't know for sure you're buying premium fuel, throw in the additive. I carry Power Service (white bottle) purchased from the local wally-world for about $4 a quart. A few ounces will do the trick.
regarding additives, i don't use them except when the daily temp drops below 10F. or maybe 20F. above 20F i never use additives. with the jetta i used "white bottle" powerservice. it made a big difference on cold winter starts & how smoothly the engine would run when really cold - and much smaller mushroom clouds from the exhaust at startup. i'm not sure how the passat TDI will do on cold starts this winter but i will probably follow the same policy with the white powerservice bottle stuff.
last winter there were a couple of days when the low-temp in my back yard was colder than the high temperature on mars as measured by those nifty mars rovers. i love it when that happens. so according to my policy, i should use cetane boost when driving my TDI on mars. gotta keep that in mind..
I had been contemplating a jetta TDI since the '06 passat didn't come as a diesel. Also because I can get the jetta diesel in manual. But other than that (and the dynaudio option in the new passat) I can't see a reason to not consider the '05 TDI.
I plan to test drive it tomorrow afternoon. What do folks here think would be a good offering price for it?
Thanks,
Ceci
I think I could have waited and got it even cheaper, but since the new Passat is not coming with the TDI, I figured the supply might dry up.
Tried out the '04 Jetta last year, and found the rear seat a bit to tight for our needs, so was thinking Passat may be the way to go, but have heard the new model Jetta is quite a bit roomier than the old.
Just got a dealer quote of 26,000 on a decked out 05 Passat GLX TDI wagon with a list of 31,000. But am wondering if the lesser MPG of the Passat is worth the extra room, and even if there is that much more room compared to new larger Jetta?
Also wondering why VW has decided not to offer either the TDI, or the wagon in the Passat line in 06, and if that will have any effect on the value of the current ones??
Any one out there who had some of the same thoughts in making their decision, have any insight they'd care to share?
Thanks!
sandman 52 :confuse:
Thanks again :confuse:
I found that the 2005 TDI GLS was about the same price as the 2005.5 Jetta TDI. Since I plan to keep the car a long time, I don't care if it's resale value dips due to the new style Passat. The new Passat cannot be had in diesel this year. I found that the supply of Passat TDIs was drying up fast, so I bought mine before there is a bidding war. I bet you could drive it a year and then sell it in NY or CA (where new diesels are banned) and get almost what you paid for it.
My 48 mile (each way) commute is mostly highway and, with the car not yet broken in, I am getting 41 mpg. Sure, I'd do better in a Jetta (which now looks like a Corolla) but I LOVE this Passat TDI.
Hope that helps. I paid $23,677 in early August.
Thanks