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8:19 AM (0 minutes ago)
to noreply
I used one from a 2003 Ram Diesel and it fit fine.
I think I switched the float arm from the one I removed from the liberty with the one than came with the Ram.
The wires for the pump were factory installed in the Liberty, however to access them they are conceiled under the carpet, drivers side passanger floor.
since the jeep's electrical connector to the unit only has 2 wires, even though it is the correct 4 prong plug, I removed the 2 brass connectors from the Liberty unit I removed and fitted them into the jeeps existing plug so that I had a 4 wire plug.
If you buy the fuel pump'sender from a junk yard, request the plug and at least 6" of the wire that connects to it. This will make it alot easier.
You can buy this connector after market, but they want a rediculous amount for it, like $60 or something.
Make sure your tank is low on fuel to make it easier to lift in and out.
These pics will help you: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=179531&highlight=jeep+li- berty+fuel+module
It you go to the LostJeeps forum, there are step by step instructions.
I think I paid less than $50 for the Dodge unit on EBAY. it is a direct physical fit. It is spring loaded do self adjusting for the height.
HOpe this is of help: Bob
It is like a Harley, needs some attention but well worth it for those who love the concept. Jeep and the EPA screewed up a really nice car. We just have to reverse what they did.
Why do I check in here then you might ask- to check on posts from winter and his saga.
After 9 years my CRD is still running fine, the body doesn't rust, nothing is torn nor deteriorated due to the dog, carrying bicycles and grandchildren.
The only leak I had to fix came from the ferrules of the common rail pipes that I removed and re-installed.
The Provent is still waiting on a shelf, mileage has never been optimal but the engine is peppy, starts as I turn the key and still has the original glow plugs.
I had the suspensions and wheel alignment checked after a technical inspection and everything was found safe and sound.
The pollution test done at several engine regimes and accelerations reveals 'lower than minimal' values.
This 150HP engine was declared 'de-rated' compared to the 163HP version and I still don't understand what 'de-rated' means; could it be a distinction?
I jusf installed a eco tune from Green Diesel will let you know how it works.
So far ( No light on the dash,Has been on for months)
More RPM and quick to start off the stop line.
Have been off work for a week,so can not tell about the milage so far.
I do about 100 miles a day.
Anne
My CRD was getting 30+ mpg on the freeway from the day I bought it after disconnecting the maf (or map, I get them confused) sensor.
bob
I use A/C, 4WD every now and then, give the engine time to warm-up in the winter, drive 130 Km/h all day on the motorway when needed, do service every 15,000 miles with mineral oil and never have anything to worry about; except perhaps to replace it one day.
Nwew motor $5.300. + shipping & then instolation. GET RID OF THAT LIMON ASAP>
Know of any alternative or aftermarket seats?
Mineral oil? Have I been wasting money using the 0 to 40 multigrade Mobil 1 oil? As soon as I pour it in and turn her over, the honey color is gone. I've wondered about the necessity of using this expensive oil. With a good battery, this oil lets her turn over good on cold Winter days. Shouldn't really good oil be used because it has a turbo? I change much less than 15,000 miles.
My service intervals are planned every 25,000 Km when its sunny and dry in my back yard
All transmission fluids are there since day one, I only replaced power steering fluid because it was as black as ink. The cooling fluid has not been changed and still doesn't need topping after 9 winters.
Some folks claim they change their fluids very often, I don't but I keep an eye on all levels and find it boring in the end :sick:
Next year I plan to replace all fluids and water pump, for its 10th anniversary...
I add less than a quart of oil between services and still have the original glow plugs. If oil quality was critical, I should be on my 3rd engine after 10 years.
It's most efficient when the needle is straight up.
The Thermostat is expensive, $100+, it is built into it's own housing and replaced as a Unit.
There was a guy on the "LostJeeps" forum who is a backyard machinist and would re-fabricate yours if you send it to him (He had a few spares for a fast exchange). He made them so that in the future it could be replaced with a standard $10 thermostat. He was charging around $100 as well.
Hope this helps: Bob
Here is the result. The oil which managed to not drip significantly on the gravel so I could see it caused numerous hoses to be compromised. They have a coating on the inside to protect them from the oil they carry but NOT the outside. If I had needed to crawl underneath I would have seen there was oil leakage but it coated the side of the engine and was not noticeable on my gravel driveway.
The hose that carries pressurized air from the turbo split and I heard air swooshing every time I gave it a bit of throttle. Several of the hoses that are part of emissions were cracked and compromised. The hoses that carry trans fluid were so soft it is a wonder they didn't burst and dump all my trans fluid on the ground.
Mind you, I checked under the hood at about halfway through the 6000 mile mark for the oil change and I did not see that oil leakage. Must have been right after that that things went down hill. It was probably two months that leak was eating away at my hoses and rotting them.
So, at 134,000 miles my Jeep went in to find out what the dickens was the start of the trouble. A new EGR valve, all new hoses to the turbo, new oil separator, new trans fluid lines fluids, and labor cost me $1,400 at the dealer. The EGR alone was $267! They did me right for labor and parts according to what some others are reporting for costs.
Evidently when this starts it starts too small for you to see any drips. But its eating away at all your hoses. So for pete's sake look under there more often if your vehicle has miles on it. In my case it was how long the hoses soaked in the oil. It doesn't take a lot because when I checked the oil it was down only half way between max and min.
I'm just curious:
What type of lubricant are you using? I've never seen engine hoses destroyed by an engine oil leak ...
At times, hot vapors of synthetic lubricants (Rotella) diffused through my turbo hose reaching the inter-cooler; this made it oily and dusty but the chilled intake air coming out of the inter-cooler never did this to the hose. I think this must be specific to certain additives, perhaps those who penetrate polymers :confuse:
7
The best trouble free oil viscosity range for me is 5W30 or 4W40. This is labeled as semi synthetic oil in the EU and corresponds to the Mercedes-Benz recommendation for catalyzed diesel vehicles without particle filters MB229."something"
Cleaning your injection system is trivial for a 'jack of the trade'. I would advise you to visit a diesel specialist instead of your dealer. My CRD is 10 years old and runs like new. My Corolla 2.0D is 15 years old and I would not change it for a new car: its only electronic 'gitzmo' is an AM/FM radio :shades:
I use 0/40moble in my jeep and change the oil every 8000 k
Yes it is important to know who is working on your engine,
I have replaced the motor in mine.
It was a ex lease!
Not taken care of.(10.000) US
So Far everything is going good.( Bang on wood)
I Still worry about it.
I listen to motor,and question the sounds.
I also have a diesel truck. I know the sound
It may be silly, but it is the way you learn.
Anne
On this specific engine I recommend to remove the serpentine belt, turn the ventilation button to the "0" mark (left side) then turn the engine ON to 'listen & learn' the purr of the engine.
Too many squeaks, vibrations and rattles are generated by the pulleys, tensioner bearing, alternator sometimes going bad (bearings or voltage regulator), cabin heater and A/C clutches :sick:
The bare engine breathes like a feline, without foetid breath :P
I would have loved to see the (probably corporate) reply.
I think it is appalling that Chrysler is allowed to import and use an engine that... after they are done making the engine emission friendly, basically screws the engine up to the point it doesn't have a chance in hell of any normal expectation of longevity, especially when you factor in the premium you pay for a diesel upgrade in the first place. To add insult to injury, they sell you this piece of crap, supposedly warranty it, yet universally across the board don't supply to us mechanics that know a single thing about it! Only in America do we spend huge bucks for junk, then are forced to research and solve at out own expense, the fixes. Or bandaids..depending on your perspective or mechanical abilities.
I feel for all on this thread, but moreso for the ones who lack the ability/time/garage/tools etc to create fixes for what was a poor and inferior design in the first place. But I also appreciated reading of the regular's (uncle bob, caribou1,elder1 etc) experiences and fixes and helpful hints.
I would have liked to learn more about the Cummins BT ? was it? swap in order to transform the Liberty in a good ride for many miles instead of a troublesome part-life. I assume that the swap must include a different transmission..maybe there are manual and auto options out there. I'm going to Google it right now I think..
Does anyone know if the VM engine had a cast iron or aluminum block? If the Cummins is cast iron and probably is without a doubt, and if the VM was aluminum, then the weight difference might make the Liberty a real handful in the handling department...especially in the wet and winter..
I think would be a more drastic swap than putting a VW TDI in a Samurai. The VW swap in a long wheel base Samurai was the way to go (cuz the LWB made the heavier front end less inclined to swap ends in the wet). Air suspension was needed for the total package success, which is not surprising.
What could possibly be their explanation for this? :confuse:
Also, I think one reason you seem to have had less overall trouble with yours, is that in the UK you guys simply don't have the nasty temp swings that we have in America..especially the way below zero feh ones and short trips to the corner store or work. Diesels do not do well in those circs..even well designed/emissioned ones, which of course we now know the VM in the Liberty was not.
It seems that most stock transmissions in Diesels just cannot handle the power of engine upgrades. I am currently rebuilding the transmission in my 92 Dodge Ram 250 with a Cummins 5.9L, they seem to last about 150k to 180k from normal use before the transmissions start slipping, and if (as most have done) you have made engine up-grades, the stock transmission cannot handle the power. I bought my 92 Dodge new and intend to keep it for life, so I am putting close to $4k into the transmission to make it Bullet proof and able to pull 40 foot trailers with no porblems.
Within a year I will most likely do the same to my Liberty CRD, since I plan to keep it for many years and will useit to tow my boat and quad trailer.
On the CRD, I feel the most important up-grade is a Provent system ($200, or many have made their own for under $20). this removes most of the oily sludge that the smog control system forces back into your Turbo and causes expensive repairs.
The CRD is not a car for a person who just wants a turn key vehicle out the gate. But IF you are willing to do some research and make the recommended changes to bring it back to how it was designed to be in the first place it is a mini beast, and can easily go 300,000 miles. It is a German designed Itallian diesel that was butchered to cut production costs and meet USA smog requirements. There is nothing in it's weight class that can match it's towing abilities. In Europe it is rated at 7,000#'s towing capacity.
It gets better MPG than any similiar vehicle. It turns so well it can almost run into it's own rear end! It is rare and will hold it's value better than gasoline Liberties. Those that are not loved will be disappearing and those that remain will increase in value due to supply and demand.
Or maybe part of a settlement with Chrysler was not to say anything. :shades:
One of my mags mentioned that the 3.0 VM Panther engine better be a success for the jeep grand cherokee or kiss Fiat Jeep diesels good bye.
Edit:
Mercury is gone and he had a Liberty. Now he has a Subaru Outback Premium 2.5. Good Luck winter2.
The (central) stator coupled to the 45RFE was incriminated on the higher Torque / HP engines.
My engine is a de-rated 2.8L producing only 150HP , but flawlessly during the past 10 years.
I live in the Alps (in France) where temperatures vary between -20°C and +35°C at 450mt altitude. When we ski we have -25°C at night; I only check my antifreeze (-37°C) and sufficient tire pressure.
My shortest drive with the Jeep is 20 miles, I prefer to use my vintage Corolla 2.0D for short trips and city driving.
My engine came from the very first batch to equip the Jeep 2.8L CRD; it had been successfully tested on the Alfa Romeo Giulia.
My dealership had a wonderful head technician in 2003, but promotion moved him to Mercedes Benz vehicles. They've not seen me since the ball joint recall that wasn't needed for my truck because it already had the PTFE lining.
Radio silence since then ...
Thanks for the 2.8 correction. I would've lost any bet but I seem to remember the 2.5 was the forerunner for the 2.8 and your model. Americans got an inferior torque converter (weaker springs) for years before they got the Euro spec. I believe winter2 was in communication with VM about that and oil specified by Daimler/Chrysler. Obviously with a new Euro spec KJ (Good initial quality control) and your ambient temperatures, you have been served well.
I still think you should've made Post #10,000.
Good day and no need for me to check in here anymore.
It's not any harder to work on than any of todays vehicles with smog crap engulfing the motor.
If you have had it for 8 years, your garage cannot be cold 12 months out of each year?
What are your other specific complaints, we may be able to point you in the right direction.
Bob