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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have read this article. The writer tends to contradict himself in several instances.
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    Can someone explain cetane and its importance in laymans terms? I see cetane booster at Walmart which claims to clean injectors, boost cetane to 6 digits?, and lower fuel consumption. Does it really give you better gas mileage and if so about how much? Is it really neccessary to "clean the injectors" or will they be just fine with todays fuels? Any help is appreciated as I am new to the diesel world. - or should I say the world of the grungy fuel pumps! ;)
  • jimt1jimt1 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, have '05 Liberty limited CRD, 4x4 with about 600 miles on it. Throttle has stuck open several times when accelerating at full throttle or close to it. Has occured twice while I am driving and once for wife. Seems to release after braking without shutting engine off of physically retracting throttle pedal. Has anyone had similar experience? Scheduled for check at dealer next week. Mileage so far 22.5-23 mpg. mixed driving, but not really city stop and go. Thanks, JimT
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Cetane is a number that tells you something about the ignition quality of diesel fuel. The higher the number the more easily the fuel will ignite. A high cetane fuel has the following advantages. 1.Easier starting 2. Quieter engine (Less knock) 3. More power 4. somewhat better fuel economy.
  • rudolf_1rudolf_1 Member Posts: 6
    Hi new2diesel,

    Laymans terms: Cetane~equal to octane with exception that you already have a compression ratio that will use all of the available latent energy.
    The higher the Cetane number the better for combustion and thus power/fuel consumption ratio. Here in the US the standard is >45 while in Europe it should be above 50.

    Now, it has no affect on cleaning injectors or the fuel system (high pressure pump especially is susceptible to fuel contamination). Suggest you use the best filtration and water separation elements possible to keep every thing in great running order.
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    Are the water separation and filtration systems on the vehicle suffcient or should we be doing more? Also do you recommend adding cetane booster?
    thanks
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    About a month ago I asked for information on the diesel Liberty. I had several respond to me. Well we got our CRD Sport on Sept. 29. We now have 1,400 miles on it. We traded our 2005 Limited Liberty 3.7 in on it. Even with less bells on it, the CRD is much better, and we are very pleased! The ride is so much more comfortable, and the CRD has a more secure feel about the way it steers. MPG has been 22.23, 22.5, 25.45 and 21.57 so far. That is much better than 16 to 18mpg we got with the 3.7 gas. I would also say the CRD is impressive for the fast pick up, which seems better than the 3.7. HOWEVER, the CRD is a considerably louder engine. I would think if Jeep is to have a wider mass appeal they will have to quiet it down some. The only problem we have is wind noise where the front doors are not adjusted just right, and the speed control drops off when going down and then up a hill.

    Any other hints or suggestions would be welcome!
  • anomiousanomious Member Posts: 170
    Hi! Congratulations!! My only suggestion is to be careful driving on the stock tires. They don't mix with water. I have 1600 miles on my Libby and just put Bridgestone REVO's on it. I went to 245-70-16. They have good clearance and at 60 mph on the speedometer they are going 60.4 mph. They have a great wet driving rating.
    Lots of luck! LK :)
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    The very first thing I did was trade the stock tires in on the goodyear fortuna tires. They have a 720 A B rating. They are very good for gravel roads, which we have lots of, and light snow. The OEM tires are very flimzy, made for a cushy ride.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Is there a filter other than Mopar I canbuy? $150.00 seems way to high or am I just not up to date on prices of these filters? Also with the water drain at the bottom it seems hard to get to, and ever more difficult to open. How often should I open it, to drain any might be water? Thanks for the information.
  • dieselrookiedieselrookie Member Posts: 1
    I'm researching the Liberty CRD as an option, as gas prices soar. I have questions about the nature and differences in diesel options. Regular US diesel, "biomass" fuels (not really available locally to me), "farm" diesel fuels, the pending arrival of low sulfur diesel along European specs (which, I presume will be even more expensive and possibly less available than US diesel). Back in the 70s, when oil supplies were threatened, diesels were momentarily popular, partially because prices were cheaper. Now, diesel is more expensive than premium gasoline. ??? Someone suggested to me that "farm diesel", for example, is the lowest grade of the fuel and suitable only for heavy duty farm equipment. Putting it into the CRD would be as productive as using Wesson oil. Can I get some adult supervision on this? Thanks. :)
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    If you paid $150 you got took. I paid $38 at the dealer. As of a few months ago, there was not an aftermarket filter listed.
    I change it every other oil change and do not worry about draining it.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    In SD diesel is currently about .40 more expensive than gas. I don't know why.
    Farm diesel is the same as regular diesel, it is dyed and does not have the road taxes applied. Quality is the same as regular diesel, farmers would not risk $100000 equipment by putting inferior fuel in it.
    Get caught with it and the tax man will be very cross with you.
    I am still getting 30-50% better mileage than with the Durango gasser I used to drive so the savings is still there.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I thank you for the info. The price of $150 included labor at the dealer. I think I can do it myself, that's why I asked the question. By the way Consumers Report says the Jeep Liberty 2.8 only gets 11mpg. Please tell me one more time that this magazine is not biased against US made trucks and cars. I felt so mad I tried several times to call the Consumer Report magazine friday, but no answer. I will try again on Monday, wish me luck.

    By the way we now have about 1400 miles on our CRD, and we like the ride better than the 3.7 and the steady pace going up a steep hill with a trailer. Very impressive indeed .
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    The water separator filter is usually inspected every 10,000 miles and replaced every 25,000 during warranty. It can last for the life of the vehicle if you never have water in it and in case it starts to clog you will feel a loss of power. You will then need 1/2 hour to change it. Many people don't bother with that.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    The worst mileage I ever got was 17 on some biodiesel when it had <2000 miles on it.
    Changing the filter is not hard-you need to remember that the plug on the bottom needs to be removed first.
    I still think that $150 is still high.
    I would replace it more often than caribou1 does. It is cheap insurance.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I'm sure the diesel caribou uses in the EU is better than most in the USA. It really depends on your fuel quality.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    That may be true.
    I have only had 1 tank of "bad" fuel in 11+ years.
    It caused my Cummins to surge at idle and sometimes stall when coming up to a light. It was purchased at a local truck stop that goes through a lot of fuel.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    If there is water trapped in the sight glass then yes, change the filter after changing the fuel in the tank. There is no doubt that when water gets in there you're in for trouble. Clean (normal) diesel fuel does not restrict the flow of the filter and the tank acts as a primary decanter.
    As of the quality of the EU fuel, well ... Times are changing over here as well.
    I'm not getting good mileage continuously with the CRD as I am with my old 2.0D Toyota. Common rail technology is much more sensitive to fuel quality and air temperature.
    I'm trying injector cleaning with 'White Spirit' (petroleum distillate) as of today. I discovered that the diesel additive used to clean the nozzles was acrylic paint solvent + dye to give it a color! I've been using this stuff for 30 years to clean the injector of my heating furnace and found it is sold for automobiles. Recommended dose is 1/4 liter for a full tank.
  • spetespete Member Posts: 73
    I am considering the purchase of a covered "cargo" trailer to pull behind my CRD. I have found a very clean 5 X 10 unit that weighs 1300# as it sits. I could get by with an 8' trailer but I really like the looks of this one - my question is tongue weight - the axles sit quite far back on this trailer and I am concerned that I may put too much weight on the hitch - does anyone have a recommendation as to how much weight the CRD will handle on the hitch? 250-300#????
  • farmdieselfarmdiesel Member Posts: 9
    I'm looking for a service manual for the CRD...like a Chilton's or Haynes, but one that covers the CRD. Anyone seen one yet?
  • anomiousanomious Member Posts: 170
    Hi! I bought the factory CD service/diagnostic manuals on Ebay. I also got an illustrated parts manual there .
    Good luck! LK :)

    service $46
    parts $7
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Maximum tongue weight is 750 lbs.
  • playgabeplaygabe Member Posts: 31
    Putting 300# on the tongue is like having two people ride in the back seat. However I installed Air bags in the coil springs so when I'm towing my camping trailer I just air them backup to the proper height prior to the extra weight so my head lights don't blind oncoming drivers. Very good solid ride with the bags installed. Just air them out when not towing.
  • spetespete Member Posts: 73
    Thanks for the reply - what brand of air bags did you install? I think this would be a good idea anyway - as I have had oncoming vehicles flashing their headlights at me - even with cargo in the rear and 4 passengers - I have seen some air systems that even have a compressor - then a switch and guage under the dash which allows you to "instantly" adjust the air bags - think that would work on the CRD?
  • fundybirdfundybird Member Posts: 3
    I'm getting 26 MPG with mostly high way driving with some country driving mixed in. I'm quite disappointed by the mileage as I thought that I would get at least 30 MPG with this driving combination. I dont do much stop and go driving.

    I have a 2005 with 8000 kms on it. Does the milage get better when the motor has more miles on it?
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Amsoil debate continued in the proper topic

    I posted a link to the API license for Amsoil for anyone interested in the area that the host directed further discussion to.
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Member Posts: 107
    I'm getting 26 MPG with mostly high way driving with some country driving mixed in. I'm quite disappointed by the mileage as I thought that I would get at least 30 MPG with this driving combination. I dont do much stop and go driving.

    I don't think you can or should expect much better than that. The vehicle is quite heavy around 4,000 lbs and non aerodynamic. The dealers only promise 27 or 28 mpg. To be frank I think that's pretty good when you compare the mileage to the proliferation of gas hogs peddled to the American consumer today. I get around that, maybe just a little better, but I only measure it carefully when I go on a long highway trip. Then I get 28 to 30 mpg.

    Does the mileage change much with colder weather? The days are beginnning ro grow short and the nights cold. How does diesel mileage change in the cold?
  • indianrefiningindianrefining Member Posts: 102
    MD -

    By "every other oil change", do you mean every 12,000 or every 24,000 miles. (I don't know what oil change interval you're using.) I'm thinking that I would agree with you, though. Somehow, I don't think that the neighbors are going to be too keen on me draining fuel/water in the street or in my driveway, and I'm sure that the grass wouldn't appreciate it! I'm thinking take it to the dealer every 12,000 (or 24,000) and let the service department screw with it (unless, of course, the "excessive water" light comes on).
  • indianrefiningindianrefining Member Posts: 102
    I decided that 1,500 miles with the Goodyear Wrangler STs was enough and changed to Firestone Destination LEs (245-70-16s). Unbelievable difference. I feel like I've got tires now!
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Unfortunately, cold degrades fuel economy. The colder it gets, the the greater the degradation. I lost 10 - 20 % on my old diesel 20 years ago during the cold winter months. I do not know if the impact will be the same with this one. Same thing happens in gassers.

    As to the gripe about fuel economy, is the engine still green? Is the total mileage less than 10K? If so, you are doing fine. As to fuel economy, I have yet to break 30 mpg but generally exceed 29 mpg by a few tenths. I have 5500 miles on my CRD.
  • fundybirdfundybird Member Posts: 3
    Ohhh mine has 4,970 miles on it. So I guess its still green.
    Its been very mild here with only one night of frost so far.

    I bought it because I really do need a 4x4 to get to my house in the winter as I live half a mile down a private dirt road. The Jeep is replacing a Sierra 5.3L. I was getting 18 to 20 MPG with the Sierra. Hopefully I'll fall in love with the Jeep over the winter when it proves itself on my driveway.
  • chief6chief6 Member Posts: 1
    I have had my CRD in for a second replacement of an EGR valve. First time just after 2,500 miles and now just at 12,750 miles again. This time they forgot to seal it and the entire vehicle was pumped with Diesel Exhaust. Had to wait 3 weeks for parts and then have the system resealed.

    Quite an issue and waiting period for parts?

    Majority of driving is Highway.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    As it gets colder, do not let the fuel tank get less than 1/2 empty. This helps reduce the chances of getting moisture in the fuel system.

    Do yourself a favor. If your CRD came with Goodyear Wrangler ST tires, get rid of them before the snow begins to fly. Most anything is better. The Goodyears are beyond terrible.
  • anomiousanomious Member Posts: 170
    For sure! My new Bridgestone Revo's are great and the 245-70-16's look real good!
    Good luck with it! LK
  • trumpet_washertrumpet_washer Member Posts: 48
    Does anyone actually let there Jeep idle for the recommended period after driving to let the turbo cool?
  • spetespete Member Posts: 73
    Having come from a farm where diesel engines are common, I was "taught" by my father to idle the engine - for both cooling and turbo lubrication - before shut down. Length of time at idle varies based on how hard the engine had been working - it is now a habit that I follow religiously. I think the times listed in the manual are merely guidlines - if I have not been towing or hauling a heavy load - 30 seconds to a minute is about what I allow - I have read that if you have been driving slowly in stop and go traffic - this is almost the same as letting the engine idle and no extra "cool down" time may be required. I think it's a good idea to let any engine idle for a few seconds before shutting down. It may take a little extra fuel - but extended engine / turbo life make it worth it.

    - I am having my Bridgestone RIVO tires mounted this week - can't wait to get rid of these Goodyears -
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    You better believe it. A blown turbo is an expensive proposition and so are particles of coked oil circulating in the engine.
  • fundybirdfundybird Member Posts: 3
    I thought I'd go one winter on the Goodyears and then put on Michelin LTX M/S. I hated the original tires on sight.
  • anomiousanomious Member Posts: 170
    Cool! The 245-70's have good clearance... Just don't get your libby upsidedown this winter.
    LK :D

    Spete! Revo's rule! You'll love them! The Michelin Cross Trail SUV's on my cherokee slide in the rain.
    LK
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I also let the turbo cool down the time needed to collect all my mess...
    Have you guys noticed any swetting of the turbo outlet hose going to the interchange cooler? Mine is really oily on the outside. It may just be getting old and needs changing. At last I found something to change on this rig ;)
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Member Posts: 107
    Does anyone actually let there Jeep idle for the recommended period after driving to let the turbo cool?

    Based on the feedback I've seen on this forum I do it too.

    After buying this machine, I've begun to see that the engine is not American made iron. It is not an engine that is widely used in vehicles in the United States. If you go into a discount store to buy an oil filter for this Jeep, chances are they don't have one. A dearth of aftermarket parts means that you have to visit your friendly dealer for parts. Dealers know that the parts aren't out there and will charge you accordingly. I believe a blown turbo would require many such exotic parts fabricated in a cave by Italian elves. I believe it would be big bucks to get the Jeep fixed. It's worth the 30 seconds to sit and contemplate your navel before shutting her off.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    PL25230 is a PureOne Oil Filter and L25230 is the regular Purolator filter.

    I'm going to be using the Pureone. Advance Auto Parts carries these.

    SDF34 is the Amsoil filter.

    LF580 is the Hastings.

    Mobil 1 - M1-211

    STP - S8316

    Fram - 8316

    Wix - 51516

    Interesting oil filter dissection

    Should be able to find these filters in parts and or discount stores.
  • raymcraymc Member Posts: 8
    Hi I am interested in the liberty diesel. I have test dirven 3. The first one had the engine light on the dash eluminated and it was very sluggish from a stop but once you got up to about 20 mph it was fine. I was not interested after that to sluggish on take off from a stop. Then I was talking to someone else who had test driven a diesel at a different dealer and was very impressed. I went to the second dealer and drove one of there diesels and was very impressed so much so that I almost bought but for the color. So I went online in search of one in a better color and found one. went to the dealer and took it for a spin, first thing I notice is the engine light is on and the sales guy says it a part that is not in stock did not know the part. This jeep drove very well but was noisier than the rest. All were jeep liberty sport. My questions are has anyone had engine light problems or engine problems. Has anyone noticed differences in the diesel libertys they have driven and how much of a problem is it getting parts and service.
  • smilie1smilie1 Member Posts: 21
    I've had good success with a weight distributing hitch.It uses two torsion bars[spring bars] to resist the downward pressure.It is adjusted by tension on the bars.It is possible to lift the rear of the tow vehicle if it is preloaded too much.You can compensate for changes in tongue weight so as to keep your headlights where they should be and when the trailer is dropped,the vehicle will retain it's original ride and handling.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Any dealer who lets you test drive any care with the engine light on is to be avoided.

    I have had the engine light come on at 586 miles. The fix was a re-flash of the engine controller with a software update. Since then, I have not even had a problem. I have 5500+ miles on my CRD and am very, very satisfied.

    Fine yourself a good dealer that has a CRD in perfect working order. As for parts, all I have had to purchase were some oil plug gaskets and an oil filter and they had those in stock. The only parts I expect to buy are those required for maintenance.
  • n3qikn3qik Member Posts: 6
    Hi I am interested in the liberty diesel. I have test dirven 3. The first one had the engine light on the dash eluminated and it was very sluggish from a stop but once you got up to about 20 mph it was fine. I was not interested after that to sluggish on take off from a stop. Then I was talking to someone else who had test driven a diesel at a different dealer and was very impressed. I went to the second dealer and drove one of there diesels and was very impressed so much so that I almost bought but for the color. So I went online in search of one in a better color and found one. went to the dealer and took it for a spin, first thing I notice is the engine light is on and the sales guy says it a part that is not in stock did not know the part. This jeep drove very well but was noisier than the rest. All were jeep liberty sport. My questions are has anyone had engine light problems or engine problems. Has anyone noticed differences in the diesel libertys they have driven and how much of a problem is it getting parts and service.

    More that likely the part needed is the EGR valve. It is on national back order. Read thru this and other forms and you will see what I mean. Go to the dealer that has the Jeep you like and get best deal and have the service department read the codes to verified the cause. Remenber its under warranty and if you don't like them you CAN go els where !!!!
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    Spete...

    My homebuilt utility trailer with a 7' tounge extension also has it's axles quite far back. I know that I've put 600+ pounds on the tounge, driven steep loggong roads and driven 40-45 mph on county roads without much problem. It's not recommended to do so without precautions- as the weight rating is what it is. Keep your load over the axles as possible.
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    Thanks for directing promotion of Amsoil away from this board. I own common stock in Chevron Corp., but still promote Shell fuel here (if anything). Am I obtuse for not promoting Chevron products- OR WHAT???
  • indianrefiningindianrefining Member Posts: 102
    Bullhead -

    Just make sure that you're using HAVOLINE Synthetic 5W-40!

    Go CVX!
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