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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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  • jeepers05jeepers05 Member Posts: 3
    I have a new one with 500km, just read the manual last night. Page 224 has what your are looking for. It depends what type of driving you were doing right before you want to shut down.

    d
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Mine currently has 19700 on it. On a trip to Chicago from Western SD I got 23-29. The lowest mileage was a tank of B5. The 29 was a real nice suprise, it usually gets around 26. Give it some time to break-in properly.
  • f250sd73f250sd73 Member Posts: 12
    Actually it's B5. But they say it will run B20 with no problems and they will not void warrenties. I wanted to run B100 in the summer. I'm going to call the dealer and ask for thier support.

    This is a good place to start, http://forums.biodieselnow.com/default.asp

    Don't bother to try and make it unless you are out of the city or in a commercial zone.

    I don't know why suppliers charge more. It's bull. They collect waste oil and charge to haul it away. Then they process and sell all the product for hugh markups. BD costs a homebrewer less than .26 per liter to make. Less if you got a really good setup. Plus! the US government gives them a .01 per % of BD blend into dino. That's why some sell B99. Any way readup. Fun stuff, but it takes a few months to understand the details.
  • f250sd73f250sd73 Member Posts: 12
    The CRD's have been filled with synthetic. Don't bother to change it sooner. It will take longer to break in. Synthetic oil doesn't loose it's lubrication, it justs get's dirty.
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    If you start to have failure with the Common Rail Diesel engine after feeding it homebrew, I'd ask you to make that clear in this forum. That's a tricky ball of snakes, it is. High blood pressure "seems fine" too. But, I will enjoy telling you how much money I saved by not fueling with homebrew. :P

    Run that wet, corrosive, mold-growing, middle-distillate wannabe in grandpa's John Deere; unless you badly want to be the example to the rest of us. Besides, my buddies at the 'Big Oil' companies will be unhappy and pay'n you a visit very, very soon. :mad:
  • jeepers05jeepers05 Member Posts: 3
    AH, B5 it is. Thanks for the link, I look forward to learning more.
  • frostyyfrostyy Member Posts: 52
    Well, if there aren't any, I don't know what I have sitting in my Jeep? the part numbers I have were straight out of the canadian Mopar website (www.mopar.ca or www.mopar.com in US) under 2005 Jeep Liberty accessories....exterior....they were priced out retail at $44.30 Canadian but I got them for $37 Canadian for each set (front and back).... the parts numbers are definitely (82206829-front) and 82206830--rear for both websites)...the US retail price is $32 on www.mopar.com
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have a 2005 CRD. The pages with the turbo cool down info are somewhere between 210 and 230. In my manual the info is on page 223 or 224.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Yes. It is more common when the front of the CRD is lower than the back. I find that letting the CRD idle for about thirty seconds before putting into gear in the morning usually resolves that problem.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    A whole many posts ago, some tried B100 in their CRD. They stated it ran pretty badly. Many other posts have used up to B20 without a problem. I have used B5 and B10 with no issues.
  • f250sd73f250sd73 Member Posts: 12
    My homebrew is better than most commercial BD. Big Oil can Kiss my )(. I use B100 in our tractors and my 01 F250. Jeep is doing extensive research on the use of BD.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Another oil option. Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W-40 full synthetic. Available at NAPA stores either in stock or by special order. Part number VAR70518. About $20 gallon. Rotella T full synthetic 5W-40 is the least expensive oil I've found that meets the specs. for the CRD. At WalMart for less than $14/gallon.
  • towwmetowwme Member Posts: 52
    Jeep has a new filter design to correct this issue. My Jeep normally sleeps in the garage, I think the floor is fairly level. I noticed it more a work in the parking lot which is as you said front slightly down hill where I park. It's in the return line. The service was $111 + covered under warranty. Filter number (F) 4799662 per TSB 21-015-05. They also replaced (7) quarts or pints of AFT+4 fluid. :)
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    That's the key! YOUR homebrew. What happens when our good friend Rufus decides he wants in on your action, comes back from Skipper's with 40 gallons of used fry oil (much to his wife's chagrin); and derives the wet, caustic, mold-growing stuff; because he read how to make it cheap & easy from the Internet.

    YOUR homebrew is either NOT cheap ( from fresh vegetable oil) OR not easy to make well (from used fry oil). Which is it ?? Rufus is on a strict budget and not very bright. Can he kiss your... too ?
  • trumpet_washertrumpet_washer Member Posts: 48
    Right y'are, frostyy! The rears without matching fronts are MOULDED flat guards. I am picking up the set of four rubber flaps tomorrow. They will look better with the P245/70/16's anyway. This thing is starting to look more like a truck every day! Had to get the bigger size tire cover, too! :shades:
  • trumpet_washertrumpet_washer Member Posts: 48
    Whatever they put in at Toledo is gone (usually) by the time it gets to you. Then the dealer drives it to the local station and fills it up with who-knows-what. I found a local Pacific Fleet Fueling that has ONLY B11 biodiesel! Usually .04-.06 CHEAPER than the other stations! I still tip in a one-shot of Stanadyne. Should be pushing 60 cetane. Engine runs very quietly (for a diesel-I had a VW TDI). :)
  • trumpet_washertrumpet_washer Member Posts: 48
    After consulting with the local tire guru, I, too, went with the P245/70/16's for the same reasons. Makes the Liberty look a little mas macho. Actually got these because of the KM rating: Wild Country XTX
  • boilermaker2boilermaker2 Member Posts: 131
    I've been reading this post for quite some time before taking the "plunge" Like many, I've had an issue with my CRD shifting wildly at 50 mph (3rd-4th?) and again at 54-57mph. I have learned for the past couple hundred miles that my cruise control seems to manage the jeep around these shift points better than my foot. For me, I take my CRD to 60 miles per hour so that it shifts into top gear and then back down the cruise (with the decelerate button @ 1mph per click) until about 57-58. The cruise will not hold it in gear if you take it back to 55 but it will keep it from shifting back up. I've read that this is a throttle by wire unit and wonder it the computer allows itself to lug the engine more at these speeds than us (the driver). It will even take some small hills before it will downshift whereas I have to hold my foot rock-steady if I were to piddle around at these speeds. After all, it's only pulling 1600-1700 rpms according to my tach. Anyway, thanks for all of the wonderful posts and I hope you have fun seeing whether I am correct.
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    I drive my new 05 CRD 32 miles to work each day on hilly country roads in the mountains. I actually work at a ski resort located at the top of a 4000 foot mountain. the last 4 miles of my commute are climbing this mountain at about 35-40 mph. I try not to get on it too much for economy but am turning 2500 rpms most of the way up. I still get 22.5-24 mpg commuting. My question is about descending. Is there a preferred way to come down the mountain? I drop it into 2 and let the engine brake the speed for most of the descent. At times the engine revs past 3000 rpms. I've read on this board that the diesel uses just as much fuel braking like this as it does if you were driving it at the same RPM. Can this be true? If so sounds like it is brakes vs MPG.
    Any help is appreciated. The CRD handles the mountains fine.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I do the same with mine on mountain roads and I shift into 4WD full time to get safer cornering on gravel and fallen leaves. I noticed that when above 2500 rpm the engine braking gets less efficient so I shift into Drive with O/D locked out to keep the engine below 2000 rpm. This has given me very little brake wear so far and it seems I will get better than 60,000 miles from my brake pads. Not bad for an automatic!
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    The CRD needs a 3rd gear selecter more for engine braking than climbing. What caught my attention in your post was the climbing 35-40 mph at 2,500 rpm. I found a "sweet spot" or "sweet condition" for climbing with overdrive locked out (off) and cruise control set 38 - 42 mph. Turns 1,650-1,750 rpm. Go figure ? But it works and lugs a load to boot !
  • trumpet_washertrumpet_washer Member Posts: 48
    These people would have all the answers, and are great to talk to: Jake Brake
  • spetespete Member Posts: 73
    Last week my CRD starting making a clicking sound after I turned the ignition off. This would happen in 3 short burts of clicking - took it to the dealer and was told that it has something to do with the EGR - coming from a casting that is attached to the air hose coming from the front of the vehicle. Parts are now on order - and as I was afraid of - they are on National Backorder! Anyone else experienced this type of problem? If so, how long did it take for the parts to finally come? The engine runs just fine even with this problem.
  • loug1loug1 Member Posts: 2
    What kind of driving are you doing to get the 22.5-24 mpg? I am looking into a CRD, but am curious as to the real-lif mpg.

    Thanks. :)
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    I am driving on a 2 lane country highway that rolls through the valley. Lots of short hill climbing so I can't even use cruise control. It is anything but flat followed by a 3000 foot verticle ascent up a 4000 foot mountain. I drive 30 miles each way (60 per day) and am still getting 22.5-24 mpg. I am not accelerating hard but I am not holding up traffic either. My speed will vary between 50 and 65 miles per hour. The one highway trip I have had so far yielded 28.8 mpg with the cruise set at 65 and the ac on. I now have 900 miles on my 05 but will be putting 20-25,000 miles a year on the truck. Tonight I will be putting cetane booster in the tank to see what that does - hopefully it will yield another mpg or two.
  • dwandwan Member Posts: 2
    I'm seriously looking to buy a Liberty CRD. Anyone have strong opinions as to weather this is a good vehicle or not? Any problems? Has anyone tried Biodiesel? Has anyone made their own Biodiesel?
    Thanks
  • bcnailbcnail Member Posts: 10
    A friend of mine recently told me that he attached what sounded like magnets to his fuel line. He claims they somehow heat up the fuel so that you receive a better burn ... and better milage. He said I should try it on my CRD. Anyone have any idea what he's talking about, or if they work?
  • frostyyfrostyy Member Posts: 52
    I'm getting my four flaps installed on Friday. Also picked up a new spare tire cover as well..went with the colorful... "Only in a Jeep" logo with smiley face and American flag bandana--brightens up the back end...
  • barry1939barry1939 Member Posts: 6
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    I weight train with a guy that wears a strap containing magnets around his knee for "pain relief and healing properties." When I told him I thought it was a stupid idea he got a little warm.

    Actually, heating the fuel (to a point) will produce more power and better mileage. I just don't see how magnets can do that unless they weigh several tons and come from Los Alamos.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I get an honest very accurate 21.5 to 22.5 mpg. T did get 25.5 oonce so far, and pulling a 3,000 # trailer I got 21mpg. On Motor Week the 16th of Oct. their long term test of a CRD, at 5.800 miles they were averaging 22.5mpg. I now have 2,500 miles om mine. I am hoping with all I can the mpg goes up to 24 or 25mpg.

    BY THE WAY COMSUMER REPORTS SAYS THAT THE CRD ONLY GETS 11MPG ! THIS IS SUPPOSE TO BE A FAIR EVALUATION? WHY NOT CALL THESE JERKS AND LET THEM KNOW THEY ARE NOT TELLING IT AS IT IS !
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Yes what you say is correct! The only issue I have is that at odd ball times when going down a semi steep dip and shortly after starting back up the hill it drops out od cruze control. Anyone got a answer to why this happens?
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    A quick bit of math indicates anything that helps raise fuel mileage 1 mpg saves $2.90 per 20 gal. tankful. This with diesel @ $3.20/ gal. and an average Liberty CRD 22 mpg (perhaps a good winter combined driving figure).

    Cetane additive is best for cold weather, I understand. Sooo.... exactly how much does it cost to treat 20 gallons ? I'm hearing 1 to 2 mpg improvements. No biodiesel here on the upper left U.S. coast. Luv that Biodiesel ! This Standyne stuff and its sort probably stabilize and add lubricity too. What does it cost per 20 gal. treatment; raising cetane 5 points? And is 60 cetane kind of extreme ? Only the most absurd, misinformed responses citing homebrew will be useful, of course.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I have had a Liberty LTD 3.7 gas and now have a Sport CRd, I think I can speak from first hand experience. The CRD is by far the more comfortable to ride in and drive. However, the CRD is more noisy. The 3.7 got me 16.5 to 18mpg. The CRD gets 22.5 to ???mpg. Diesel is about $ .70 to .80 cents per gallon higher than gasoline at this time in Missouri.

    I personally like the CRD a lot more than the gas 3.7.

    My advice is if you get one (CRD) upon taking delivery, drive directly to the tire dealerof your choice and trade the Goodyear ST tires. The ST tires are very flimsey and offer very little cord strength, and no resistance to a flat tire from running over a Sparrow's egg. I perfer a 8 ply tire, that is good on gravel and mudd and snow.

    Mudd flaps on all 4 tires are a must! If you intend to get out of your jeep without getting mudd and [non-permissible content removed] on the back of your pant legs, or the back of your sweethearts skirt. I can say this by experience.

    The 2005 have a 7 year 70,000 power train Warnt. The 2006 have a few more added stability perks, but only 3 years or 36,000 mile Warnt.

    Hope this helps a little.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Was that going to be a question Barry or did you have mpg to report?

    The magnet gizmos the FTC has tested didn't do anything. (link)

    Steve, Host
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    He claims they somehow heat up the fuel so that you receive a better burn...

    No, magnets will not heat up the fuel. That would be possible only if the fuel had an abundance of free electrons (which gasoline and additives do not have) and if they were moving very fast (far beyond supersonic which is also not the case). Even if the fuel were paramagnetic the required flow rates are far beyond what any fuel line could endure.

    tidester, host
  • jc7349jc7349 Member Posts: 17
    I use stanadyne. I get a case of 12 pints for about $70 and change so lets use $70. 12 pints contains 192 ounces, 36 cents per ounce. 20 Gals contains 2560 ounces. Stanadyne is mixed with the ratio of 500:1. Which comes out to 5.12 ounces at 36 cents per ounce is $1.84 to treat 20 Gals.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Tidester, the fuel system you describe is already on the drawing board. This system featuring "supersonic paramagnetic" fuel passing thru super-conducting magnets is called the Uncommon Rail Diesel.
  • spetespete Member Posts: 73
    I have 12800 miles on my CRD and mileage has ranged from a low of 20.5 MPG pulling a 3000# trailer over a 400 mile trip = to a high of 30.5 MPG on a freeway trip of 550 miles. Last week I had my Wrangler tires exchanged for Bridgestone RIVA's and do not know if this will affect anything. Where did Consumer Reports get the 11 MPG rating for the CRD? (Post#2284)
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I've questionned people who have 4x4s, truck and crane drivers, searched on the net but never came across this application for small vehicles the size of a Jeep. The ABS braking system needs bigger disks and compensates the need of the Jake brake. What do people intend to hawl? The Liberty is small.
    Many years ago truckers were complaining about using too much engine oil with these brakes and chose the electromagnetic brakes instead. Is this like fashion where the same amount of fabric moves up and down over a 20 year period?
  • trumpet_washertrumpet_washer Member Posts: 48
    Well, the CRD has a very big towing capacity, has the same brakes as the 2.4L, and weighs more than the 3.7L. Seems like some extra braking might be necessary, especially when towing. The Jacobs people could probably come up with something to fit the CRD, if there were a big enough demand. It wouldn't be cheap. I don't believe there is as much blow-by with compression brakes as there used to be. I hear enough of them over on the near-by exit ramp to know that there are lots of trucks outfitted with them. Plus, who wouldn't like to be able to let out a great big "BRRRRRRRRAAAAAAAPPPP" once in a while?
  • loug1loug1 Member Posts: 2
    The Jake brake works similar to a downshift, but not burning fuel and leaving the valves closed, therefore causing more compression and allowing the engine to assist in slowing the vehicle more than downshifting alone. Most Jake Brakes have different levels to allow more or less Jake Brake to none at all. Local city streets disallow the jake brake due to noise. Then the truck has to rely on the braking system. With 40 -60++ tons of cargo the truck will need all stopping power available.

    In my OTR truck repair classes I do not recall hearing of any issues of burning too much oil by using the Jake Brake.

    Thanks to all who have posted the mpg. I am looking into a CRD. I currently drive a mazda protege to work @ 25-30 mpg. I get 30 only when I keep the speedo @ 65 and below.

    I have a 96 cherokee sitting in my driveway which gets 16 mpg. I have BFG all terrains. Before putting the BFGs I had the stock tires and did get better mileage. I replaced the stock tires with the BFGs in '96 after 18K miles. since then I went from 19 mpg to 16 mpg.

    :D
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I think a fog horn would be more efficient to scare people...
    I read that an automobile manufacturer is prototyping a 'combo' pad+electromagnetic braking system on the disks of his vehicle. This option would be lighter for our budget.
    Considering braking the maximum towable load, I fear you will have a few swets. I would advise people to see how this diesel truck behaves on snow at low speed going downhill. You will know a lot more in the months to come. I love the way this thing moves on slippery roads because I raced on an ice track many years ago. Being in front of 5000 lbs going downhill would shure make me swet :sick:
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    The big trucks (in the 70's) could swallow 25 liters of oil in one day where I live!
    They were made by Volvo, Renault-Berliet, Mann, Saurer, ...
    This is why they chose the 'TELMA' system, for pure economical reasons. They later found they could even use the word 'safety' with the 'TELMA'. We are talking 35 Tons, in a mountain region, no speed limits in those days and no control of the driving hours a man could do. This comparison is very far from what the Jeep can do.
  • cu1981cu1981 Member Posts: 13
    I think you need to keep your driving conditions in perspective with any vehicle. Not sure you would get your mileage to ever achieve the top highway ratings on any vehicle - gas or Diesel given your drive routes... I know that my diesel will climb hills at a much lower RPM than gas. So I would think you are still better off than a comparable gas engine. The last 4 cyl. Auto I owned was a gas and it never stayed in over drive. It was constantly shifting so I know mileage was reduced. Traveling those same hills the CRD chugs up and down in overdrive. I actually noticed the first trip along this road I constantly had to disengage my cruise because I was constantly coming up on cars that slowed dramatically as they began to climb hills. These were full size SUV's from Ford and GM with V-8's. My last two cars were Land Cruisers and they both turned much higher RPM's and did not perform as well as the CRD climbing hills. They were OUTSTANDING SUV's though. If the US ever starts selling the diesel version I am back in a third one. I love the Liberty. I drives much like the first cruiser I owned. The lastest model Cruisers are much softer. I never liked that much.
  • cu1981cu1981 Member Posts: 13
    Had 2 Land Cruisers before the CRD I now currently own. It is an outstanding SUV. I have 6K on my 05. I would buy it again. What does the future hold. Nobody knows.... I wanted to stay in a SUV w/ 4 wheel drive but had to have better milage. Show me another choice. Toyota and Honda may have better quality but they are not SUV's. That opinion comes from an owner of 3 large toyota SUV's. Land Cruiser, Sequoia are real 4 wheel drive SUV's the Highlander is a fake Rolex. Honda CRV is the same mold as the Highlander.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I've been to a demonstration show where people could buy a ticket and ride up and down steep inclives, go through mud, etc... This was a 'family' type of demo organised by a 4x4 club.
    The 3 door diesel Land Cruiser was doing much better than the Wrangler, Suzuki Samurai and Nissan Patrol. Unfortunately I was not allowed to try my Liberty for insurance reasons but the diesel Land Cruiser tickled my pride a bit :cry:
  • hawk521hawk521 Member Posts: 19
    Consumer Reports got 11 mpg in LO-RANGE, pulling the rated 5,000# trailer in fhe form of a tractor pull sled. That's about the only explanation that makes sense.
  • indianrefiningindianrefining Member Posts: 102
    I thought my eyes were deceiving me (possibly due to too much Pabst Blue Ribbon) until I got the yard stick and actually did some measuring. For some reason, my Liberty CRD sits almost 1/2 inch lower on the driver's side than an the passenger side (front and rear). This was with the vehicle empty and sitting on level pavement. All tires are the same size and are infalted to the same PSI. I can not see any problems with any suspension components. Has anyone else noticed this or have any thoughts on why it might be?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    the fuel system you describe is already on the drawing board. This system featuring "supersonic paramagnetic" fuel passing thru super-conducting magnets is called the Uncommon Rail Diesel.

    And that certainly puts it well beyond existing technology! Do you have a reference or link?

    tidester, host
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