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Federal Standards:
Tier 1: The former Federal (EPA) standard; as of 2005, no longer in use.
Tier 1-D: The former Federal diesel standard; permits higher NOx emissions than the Tier 1 standard; as of 2005, no longer in use.
Tier 2 bin 11: New Federal standard, applies only to large trucks.
Tier 2 bin 10: Least-clean Tier 2 bin applicable to cars.
Tier 2 bins 9 through 6: (Progressively cleaner standards)
Tier 2 bin 5: "Average" of new Tier 2 standards. NOx emissions levels of all vehicles sold by each automaker must average to the bin 5 NOx level or cleaner, when standards are fully phased in.
Tier 2 bins 4 through 2: (Progressively cleaner standards)
Tier 2 bin 1: The cleanest Federal Tier 2 standard. Equivalent to a zero-emission vehicle (ZEV).
If you want to see a flood of diesels, write your House or Senate legislator and tell them you have an idea to reduce our dependance on petroleum, allow more diesels by having USA adopt Euro IV emissions regulations for diesel vehicles. The rest of the world is adopting Euro IV regs. pertaining to diesel and not following US leadership.
Contacting legislator is like throwing a penny in a wishing well, however, you never know when they might actually do SOMETHING. Even with ULSD fuel, our emissions standards will require costly engine differentiation.
However, I was pointing out that the min. BSFC of 200g/Kwhr is where I was empirically experiencing the best MPG with the vehcile.
P.S.
Nice to know you passed the FAR-AIM and will not run out of fuel under IFR conditions.
Here is the EPA's version of what Moparbad wrote out.
It will help you go to sleeppppp
Cheers,
Boilermaker
Just wanted to jump in and assure you that there is a 5W40 Mobil 1 truck and suv formulation and it is totally synthetic as all Mobil 1 products are. I believe that there may be higher ratio of anti shear components in the formulation. It is not a blend. We still have it available in Walmarts here in South Carolina in 5 quart jugs. Hope that continues too!
Have you voiced your belief/theory to DC?! I think that any input they have is better than no input at all. You sound like you have a background in wrenching on diesels, possibly professionally. If so, I think it would help all if someone with that kind of knowledge and experience were to put in their two cents worth. It could lead to corrective action, or not. But at least you could add to the mix your conviction about what the problem is. Cheers
Total $21,199.
I've had my crd since the end of May 05. I have around 15,000 miles logged. I have had the EGR replaced...around 5,000 mi. and I did have to put around a quart of oil in once!?! We are finally getting some significant snow here in New England today(10")...can't wait to try it out and see how it performs! No other problems with it thus far, quite happy with performance and gas mileage-averaging around 25-27 city/highway combined. I do much more highway btw. probably 80/20
http://www.dieseltuning.com/english/01ourproducts/index.html
DIGI CR 3-8 Cylinder - USA $539... for all diesel fuel engines with Common-Rail injection system
Looks like a nice pick up in power (and maybe MPG) with a simple plug and play device. This is done successfully for virtually all major TDs on the market (by this and other brands).
Took to dealership and they ran the tests and came up
with " nothing wrong".
They said that Star won't release the EGR unless the diagnosics show the codes that it's not
working.
I was told to use additive and buy from diff. station. I
told them that I have been doing that since March. Tires
inflated properly. Keeping rpm's/speed down. Done the blow
out with over drive turned off.
I Spent 48min with Star Customer service today to be told by "Tim" that there is nothing they can do and to call back when it gets under 15mpg (??!!). I said to pretend that it was below 15mpg, what would they do then? He said "more tests and then have you use additive and try a diff. service station" OMG! When I asked to speak to a supervisor he said that he was the supervisor. When I asked to speak to his boss he said that he is not allowed to transfer my call and the he "Tim" is speaking on behalf of Chrysler. He kept repeating to try the additive and diff. stations over and over in a robotic montone voice.
I love my Jeep but I know it's supposed to get better MPG. I ran into a man that had a CRD two days ago and he said that he got 27MPG from the get go and got 31MPG last week on a 4 hour HWY trip.
:lemon:
I am so frustrated and I am not willing to pay $600 to buy/have installed the EGR because the warranty should cover it. Any Help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.
Maybe a diff.Dealership? I took mine to Clio Chrysler (Clio, MI) they said they only worked on 1 CRD so far (replaced EGR) I live in the Flint, Mi area.
THANKS TO ALL THAT REPLY
I can't diagnose the problem if I can't see the patient.
But I'll bet you 2 pints of Canadian beer in Windsor that your problem lies in the fuel you filled up with.
But I would look at the shape your air filter is in 1st.
A plugged filter or air intake will affect mpg.
Bad fuel is usually the cause...
Which is common this time of year.Especially when the first couple days of cold weather rolls in .
Hi water content in fuel plus stale fuel will yield low levels of cetane,and lower mpg.
"Just Before" you fill the tank with a premium fuel,
at the next fill up,
give her a good dose of a lubricity additive 1st,
Which will have a water dispersant .
I suggest ,Stanadyne Lubricity formula,and cetane booster,or Kleen Flo,and methyl hydrate,etc..
Next I would fill up with a premium diesel fuel at a truck stop or popular gas station.
try #2 fuel,or #3 if available,Shell diesel ultra,BP supreme.
If it still hasn't cleared up ,then try an oil change ,
0W40 Mobile 1.How long has it been since a change has been done?
Next to see any change,
experiment by driving down a highway at 55mph,
set cruise at this speed,
then call up the mpg on the overhead console,
and press reset ,and let me know what mileage she settles at.
The next step would be to get a tranny fluid and filter change.This may help ,and generally over looked .
Breaking in periods can yield metal fragments which contaminate the fluid .Which in turn lowers the efficiency of the tranny.
1 more thing,
get the brakes checked .You may have a seized brake pad,which will lower mpg as well.
Thats it ..
good luck..
Lightnin3...
It is not for sure the design of the EGR. I think it was designed in the EU with ULSD for fuel. DC is probably just biting the bullet and changing them until next year when ULSD is the fuel that is available in the US. The refiners are claiming that 90% will be ULSD by June. I wish the CRD was available in CA to see if that EGR problem exists with the cleaner mandated diesel we have here. I never have any fuel issues with my VW TDI running BP ULSD sold here.
One of these enterprising aftermarket chip makers could program the EGR out of the system and get my dollars.
However, I am finding much cleaner combustion, measured by the tailpipe soot deposits, using Stanadyne plus another cetane + injector additive. A complete, manual fuel system cleanout and better fuel will solve many problems. Don't forget knarly lug tires will take away mileage, too.
Good luck ! But if there are no other symptoms relating to poor mileage, then fuel system/EGR is probably the problem.
"...The tuning module for the Jeep CRD you inquire about is the Digi CR with the Bosh harness. We have the unit in stock and the price is of $539 USD shipping included. The unit is a plug and play unit and requires only a few minutes for the install. The tuning box comes with adjustable settings that can provide gains to up to 30% if the perimeters from the ECU is not exceeded. This tuning module fits many common rail applications and the output really depends as I said by the limitations of the ECU. It is safe to say that your minimum gain should be of at least 20% being a normal window to operate within. We have sold quite a few units to Jeep owners lately and everyone is happy with the results..."
I wonder if this in anyway indirectly addresses the EGR issue by modifying codes sent to/from the ECU???
Has anyone tried to put a dummy resistor across the EGR pilot cable? Probably a simple light bulb connected across the 2 leads could be used in case of failure to bring the truck back to the dealership.
PSI from 5-35 lbs.
I measure distance from under wheel well to ground b/4 hooking up camping trailer. Then simply put air into bags until the they reach same level when trailer is attached. About 30 lbs. They work great. I carry a small portable 12 volt air compressor so when I unhook I can let the air back out for running around w/o trailer then air them back up for trip home.
Total cost installed about $220.
Well worth the cost. If there is anything I hate is a vehicle lights in my eyes coming towards me or behind me.
Search this forum for brakes. I think you may find your answer.
Boiler
If you want to cut to the chase and find out why the oil companies charge so much for diesel, jump down to the next to the last sentence in the article. :P
Steve, Host
The one point I wanted to bring up was the tires. I don't see what all the fuss is about. The factory tires are not aggressive mudding tires. I don't know of any auto manufacturer supplies them on new vehicles. They are, however, a decent all around tire. I have had zero problems on wet pavement and, most recently, in the snow. I put the vehicle in full time 4WD and just went. I went up steep hills, a bit of off roading, and even on some ice. The vehicle far outperformed my 4X4 Silverado, which has more aggressive tires. I really don't see why everyone is trashing these tires.
Now if I could only get the fuel economy thing figured out....
As for your tires, I assure you that your oe tires are not intended for any serious snow, ice, gravel, mud, or heavy rain. These are LIGHT DUTY PASSENGER CAR TIRES ! these tires just barely meet the weight standards for the CRD and a tiny trailer. When I took mine off they were so thin and so flexible you could not put more than 10 lbs on the uninflated tire without it collapsing. I have the Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor which are sturdy and should outlast the ST by 30,000 miles. I did have the Triple tread but they did not have the grip I needed for our driving conditions. Hope this helps, and good luck.
Farout
My fuel mileage is 21 to 22.5 with no change with Cetane booster, or changing fuel brands. I have almost 6,500 miles on it, and used 1 qt. of oil at 3800 miles. The oil is still at full now. I have put 245 70 16 tires on and had the dealer do their thing to correct the speedometer for $25.
I have had no indication of any other problems ....yet. I really do not anticipate any....hope hope.
I have tried using the engine heater, and it was easy to find and clip in place. When not in use I have the end capped and put in the little bin in front of the battery. The heater made no real difference at 20Fh but at 3Fh it turned over a little easier. The inside heater does little as far as warming up the inside until we start moving. Is this why we see cardboard in front of VW diesels warming up? Any suggestions ar remarks would be appreciated.
Merry Christmas !
Farout
Really like the new aggressive Coopers for winter, but will gladly put the dealer tires back on for summer.
I had the loose hose problem on my Liberty and after they tightened them up everything has been fine. Just had the thermostat replaced.
I know people satisfied with Korean vehicles, but they are mostly city drivers and will never take their vehicles to non populated areas.
The only counterpart about the larger diesel engines is their ability to burn a lot of fuel when not providing any effort. This is why we have 1.4 Liter engines in small cars and the 'standard' 2.0 Liter in most middle size cars.
The Cummins seems a bit oversized seen from this side of the ocean but there is a 'but': it's a reference in the professional world!
Another thing about the 6 cyl is the possible need for the JAKE brake. The large 4 cyl engine gives proportionally better engine braking than it's equivalent in 6 cyl. I would personally prefer an electric brake on the transmission shaft if I had to retain a heavy load over long distances.
In fact my idea of a 4x4 would look more like a Unimog...
(Sorry for my passengers)
My Jeep has only been in the shop twice. Both times for loose hoses. My fuel economy is hovering around 25 mpg and I don't buy cetane booster, additives, or treatments. I feel that some people on here waste alot of money and time worrying about their Libbys. If it's not broken, don't fix it!!
The T