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Go to tirerack.com. Look at the Wrangler ST and how it has been evaluated, poorly. I have Bridgestone Alenza tires on my CRD and that has made such a difference all around.
As to GM and Ford being in the pickle they are in, I blame it on their lack of foresight. Using health costs as an excuse is pretty poor. It is their lack of flexibility that is killing them.
He could have also said: 'Because many humans feel proud to show their dominance'.
When the cost of gasoline rose close to 1.5 Euro per liter over here, this didn't help dampen speed nor traffic. I think banks should be doing well when the cost of fuel goes up.
The same argument applies to the cost of ownership: why do we have to pay 500 USD for service that you pay 200 USD in NA? Charging more gives more freedom to those who copy a given technology and will destroy interrest in making something nice (I'm referring to my owner's manual where it's written: 'Built with pride').
European customs are chasing illegal imports of automobile spare parts such as hoods, headlights, shock absorbers, etc, just because local dealerships DO overcharge their customers that need to pay gas ~7.2 USD per gallon. :sick:
I plan to keep what I got on the new ones also.
Have a good day
Just be careful...
Wrangler ST's Have a traction rating of A, temp rating of B and rated to wear 3.4 times the control tires used.
Bridgestone Alenza's have a traction rating of B (worse), temp rating of B (same) and wear 7 times longer than control tires.
My studying tells me the only advantage is getting more mileage out of a tire that has poorer traction ratings. I guess they plan this for when you are spinning your tires due to less traction.
Maybe the reason your having bad luck with your history of Goodyear tires is due to the way you drive. I could have crappy performance from Pirellis and Bridgestones if I purposely spin my wheels and make abrubt lane changes.
As to my driving style, I am generally pretty gentle with the right foot and the steering. In the CRD I try very hard to avoid abrupt steering inputs. My wife is a NYC driver, so enough said there. It is difficult to purposely spin wheels on my wife's 1998 Concorde unless the surface is sufficiently wet or loose. The CRD is another story. I have unintentional left 30 feet of rubber on the road the first day I had it. Have chirped it in 4WD full time once or twice out of curiosity.
So what speed are you travelling at to get that mileage??
I'll guess... 55 Kms/hr at 1500 rpms?? with Shell diesel Ultra,and tires at 35 lbs.
Please tell us we want to know...
I have been noticing that my mileage is slowly increasing as she breaks in.I am at 32,000 Kms.30 -32mpg , 800 kms to a tank..
peace ...
Lightnin3
Two of the five Alenzas listed are "B" rated, the "S" rated ones and a specific 22" low profile one. The other three are "A" rated
The Goodyear ST's , except for two 15" sizes are rated "B"...
Lets not color the data! Let the "actual" facts speak for themselves.
The Goodyear ST is near the bottom of the Tire Rack chart. :shades: LK
"Unfortunately for all of the money spent to test, brand and label the tires sold in the United States, the Uniform Tire Quality Grade Standards have not fully met their original goal of clearly informing consumers about the capabilities of their tires. Maybe it's because tires are so complex and their uses can be so varied, that the grades don't always reflect their actual performance in real world use."
The Tire Rack
The treadwear numbers are perhaps the least helpful.
Steve, Host
I'm glad to see you are having good luck with your diesel. I have one that come off the line on 1-24-05. And I haven't had the EGR problems our anything the others are having. I had the loose hose problem and they fixed that and then reflashed the computer. I'm getting in the cold Iowa winters about 23 to 30 miles to the gallon. Just depends on what the weather is and the way I'm using the Liberty. In Iowa we have to look three places for people during a winter storm home, grocery store and the ditch.
Corn stalks can really mess up a tire in the fall after they have dried out. Well better stop talking about pigs and respect this is a liberty forum.
Do you have to keep tightening the hoses or did they just miss some the first time? Mine haven't came loose again. I have been checking them everytime I change oil. I found out mine were loose when the engine light came on and it started leaking oil.
I believe my experience, and motto of safety first is a wise one. I would never accuse anyone of of improper driving habits to justify why I chose to keep OE tires on. Perhaps you (ttandjj) are a real cheap skate and refuse to become informed? I am sure you would not want anyone to assume the worst of you, and neither should you assume the worst in others not liking the OE ST tires. Merry Holidays.
Farout
Long live the CRD
Derbs
I have never been a big Chrysler fan, but with vehicles like the Viper, PT Cruiser, Charger/300M/Magnum(plus the "HEMI" campaign) and our little diesel Liberty it hard to argue that Chrysler is not setting the trends. I bought a Jeep this time because I feel Chrysler deserves it by keeping me on my toes...I like that.
I hope GM and Ford get it figured out soon, would be a shame to lose them.
1. Power steering hose was loose, lost all power steering fluid. No harm.
2. Turbo inlet hose "popped off". Towed, replaced, oil topped off and runs fine.
I have noticed a little drop in mileage this winter. I kinda expect it though. No oil leaks other than above. Can't really complain.
Pigs are stinky. But, damn good eating in the morning. Thanks for keeping me fed.
The T
Have you noticed this on yours?
I appreciate all of your work as a farmer. Had an uncle who had a dairy farm in CT some years ago. I use to help out from time to time. Tough hard work. I know how hard it is for you and I appreciate people like you.
As to tire rotation, the owners manual only shows using four of the tires. I asked the dealer about this and they only rotate the four tires.
My CRD was built in early May. I can roast my self out of my CRD in 7 minutes, even in single digit cold.
My mpgs are down too in the cold. This is normal.
I feel rotating by 5 is practical and you get a set that is 'evenly roasted' by the sun!
Rotation time is also brake inspection and oiling time for all hinges. I think in a near future I should get 8 spots of oil stain around the truck but none underneath! :shades:
To purge the eventual air trapped in the system, there is a simple way using an old vacuum cleaner or vacuum pump if you have one under hand. Stop the engine, let it rest and outgas (make it's bubbles). Remove the coolant filler cap. If you apply continuous light succion to the coolant reservoir where the cap sits, you will be able to bring the air out after a few minutes. Don't forget to pinch the overpressure release hose that's connected where the cap sits. This principle is used for filling all types of circuits when there is liquid conflicting with emprisonned gas.
Farout
I told the dealership that I was not happy with the last Goodyear tires, that we had on our other 1500 dodge, and it seems like they had the cheapest of everything (shocks etc) on the last 3500 we had, ..
What brand of Goodyear is a higher end tire? What should I be asking them?
Far4out
Farout
Farout
Farout
Farout
My experience with Goodyear tires has been less than exemplary, so I am cynical about anything they make. In tirerack most Goodyear tires do not get good ratings by their users/reviewers.
CRD engines will run on B-20 (has been tested). Some users here have run their CRDs on B-20 without a problem. I have done a tank of B-15 myself and the CRD ran quite well.
The reason DCX wants you to stick to B-5 is because of standardization issues with the biodiesel (so I understand).
The very reason you state to use diesel is the exact reason they DO NOT RECOMMEND BIO DIESEL. I am sure this may seem confusing, at least it did to me. I will add the only additive DC said should be is an anti-gel is very cold temps. They also said the heater should not be needed until the teens, if then.
You are correct that the owners book does say B-5 is acceptable. So please DO NOT CONSIDER THAT I AM TRYING TO MAKE YOU OUT TO BE A BAD PERSON. THIS IS JUST HOW MUCH WRONG INFORMATION IS PASSED ON FROM WHAT DC ACTUALLY SAYS.
I was also told soon we will see the Grand C. get a diesel 6 cyl. Time will tell. Merry Christmas Winter2.
Farout
Biodiesel has some interesting properties including being one heck of a solvent/cleaner. It is possible that the biodiesel is attacking the seal on this fuel pressure switch causing to fail. As to the lubricity issue, I would need to see data on that. Too many diesel fleets have used biodiesel blends successfully without a single hiccough. I do not use biodiesel blends all that often because of an availability and location issue.
I will ask my local dealer about this. I am really curious.
Have a great Holiday season!
And remember, some are waiting for next summer and round two of the heating issue, not believing the temp guage needs recalibrated answer.
If nothing else you probably will get better and better deals next year until a lot of plants have closed and inventory dries up for all American brands.
Why did CRD's sit on lots? Why did DC have to put incentives on a very limited production run? Don't get confused by the numbers sold as reported by DC. When a unit ships from the factory it is a sold unit to DC even though a dealer has to buy/floor plan it until the retail sale is completed.
Consider the following example operating conditions (not a CRD specific list):
•Engine temperature more than 170 F.
•Ambient air temperature more than 20 F.
•Engine run time more than three minutes since 170 F.
•Engine speed 2248-2688 (auto. trans.), 1952-2400 (manual trans.).
•Manifold absolute pressure from 5-20 hg.
•Short Term Adaptive Fuel Trim is adjusting pulse width by less than +7 percent and more than -8 percent.
•TP sensor from 0.6 to 1.8 volts.
•Vehicle speed sensor more than 40 mph.
Deliberately opening the EGR valve in this manner can cause a miss (or perhaps a jerk) that is felt by the driver. Does anyone know how the CRD OBDII performs the EGR test? What few times I had jerking it was only under certain conditions that I don’t repeat very often.
Now comes the leaking turbo boost hose. When a turbo hose is leaking at the boost side of a turbo there is more air going in to the intake side of the turbo relative to when it is not leaking (duh!). The mass airflow sensor sees more airflow and sends more fuel to the engine at a time when the boost is not as high as it should be. The engine speeds up with less turbo boost than should occur and runs less efficiently than it would otherwise, getting worse mileage than it should.
What happens if the OBDII runs an EGR test while this is happening? Does it show up as a bad EGR valve? Some brands and models use additional sensors to test the EGR valve by taking pressure readings above and below the valve.
Contrary to common belief, a precisely controlled EGR valve can actually increase performance and economy by reducing the combustion chamber temperature allowing the timing (spark or fuel) to be more advanced. If a turbo boost hose is leaking does this also reduce the cooling effect of the EGR valve preventing the timing from being fully advanced, further degrading fuel economy?
I throw this out for discussion after reading a lot of technical sites that relate to EGR valves but not specifically the CRD EGR valve. I don’t know if any of this applies to the CRD in the way stated and I apologize in advance for wasting space on the forum if it does not. But if it does, it is a real shame that some are having trouble and might even be dumping their CRDs because of something as simple as a leaky turbo hose.
Another issue I ran across was air in the fuel injection system from the factory. I had to purge the system a few times to get all of the air out as I had some jerking when cold. I learned that you cannot fill the CRD with fuel while the engine is running as you will get air in the system, not a good thing.
To anyone who owns a CRD, I would take the time to look at the hoses and their associated clamps and make sure that they are really snug. This might save you a head ache in the long run.
Their conclusion was that the fault code/check engine light was tripped accidentally.
Otherwise, I have had no problems with my CRD.
I left something out on the earlier post. Newer model EGR valves are electrically modulated and indexed for precise control by the computer. Early models of this type could close on a chunk of carbon and the index would show open when the computer was set in the closed position causing a defect code. It would stay that way until removed and cleaned so it could close. The cure that was developed was to periodically or under certain conditions have the computer fully open the EGR valve to “blow” out the carbon and re-establish the index.
I was surprised to find that virtually every car manufacturer (including the Japanese) has had a variety of non trivial difficulties with EGR valves related to function and diagnosis. It’s not just a CRD problem.
Also, on the earlier post I may have something backwards. If the CRD has a manifold absolute pressure sensor rather than a mass airflow sensor that changes the fuel delivery relative to the throttle position, then a loose hose might be providing less fuel than needed. Once again, timing might be affected and efficiency reduced.
All of this points to how very important it is to have all of the air systems tightly sealed on this engine and you have been saying this since day one, Winter2.