Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Glad I could help. I have learned a few things in my years on this earth and one of the most important is to cover your butt. I spent over two hours going over my CRD the day after I received it. Besides a few misplaced and loose clamps, I re-routed some minor items underneath and made note of potential issues.
I am a maintenance fanatic. I have been left stranded three times in over thirty years of driving; in two of the cases by dead batteries (sans warning) and one controller failure. Never had an engine failure except at very high mileage, 240+K on a Volvo B-18 4 cylinder with SU carbs. Threw a rod out of the side of the block. I have never rebuilt that or any engine. Pull any engine apart that I have owned from new and they look like new inside. Have only done ball joints once, same Volvo.
My teacher was a neat gentleman who was a body mechanic as well as a fabulous engine mechanic. He taught me everything I know and how to make a piece of junk last forever. Can never maintain these cars enough.
My CRD does not jerk at all and only did until I purged the air from the fuel system.
Find another dealer!
It is 15 PPM ULSD when sold in CA. BP/ARCO is no more than 30 PPM LSD when sold in other states. See the ECD-1 website for availability.
http://www.ecdiesel.com/
Otherwise, I have had no problems with my CRD, either.
Diesels are not the "in thing yet in America".We are still a gasoline culture.
Not until Gas hits $67/barrel of oil,and gas at the pump hits a high of $4/gallon like in Canada,then it will become accepted.
Last summer I was driving around with an ad on the back of my wheel cover ,showing my mileage ,and people were stopping me to ask how I liked it.
Now that gas has dropped,
people don't care,because it is affordable and managable.
But we will see the reactions again,when gas goes up next summer.Hopefully common sence and popularity will prevail.
Peace and happy holidays..
Lightnin3...
Very good point. The reason is the diesel engine has a hard time getting warm at low idle. On our PowerStroke diesels that idle all day in the Arctic we install an idle controller. We keep the idle at 1200 RPMs to maintain proper heat in the engine. Low idling for any length of time is not good for a diesel engine. Give it a minute to get the fluids flowing and take off driving. If you are in extreme cold a heater keeps the crankcase oil warm.
I understand when and why the engine feeds more fuel. The question is what happens when a turbo pressure (outlet) hose is leaking with respect to error codes and failed EGR valves, how fuel is flowed in that condition and how the OBDII tests the EGR valve. I find it hard to believe that 2 or 3 EGR valves can fail before 10k miles on one vehicle. In pictures it looks like a pretty substantial unit. Do you know how the CRD OBDII tests the EGR valve?
If the problems are software related, how can some of us be over 15k miles with no problems and good fuel economy? The fact that DC is on the 4th version of software might mean that it is not the software (unless CRDs are running Windows). I hope it is the software. Maybe Version 1.06 will cure everyone’s problems and we can all join Caribou1 on his euphoric cloud.
This is from an earlier post, Jm.
I looked into buying a ScanGauge OBDII reader and queried the company about compatibility. I got the following response:
The Liberty Diesel has been reported to have some problems with part of the data stream randomly stopping. We think it is a bug in the vehicle ECU. We will probably be adding this vehicle/engine combination to our "incompatible" list soon. Sorry.
Software bugs are funny. Sometimes it is a processor bug and the software runs fine until it "steps on a bug." You can rewrite the software to avoid that bug and it runs fine until it steps on another bug.
Readings follow:
Outside temperature was 22 F. The temperature gauge comes off the bottom mark around 110 F. I let the engine completely warm up before turning on the heater. The first major mark on the temperature gauge is 140 F and just below middle is 177 F (max obtained), so the middle is probably 180 F. After the heater ran a few minutes the temp dropped to 168 F. For the rest of the drive the temperature never got over 172 F with the heater on. The ¾ mark on the temp gauge is apparently 220 F.
Maximum turbo boost obtained was 23.2 (37.5-14.3(static)). It only takes 6 to 8 lbs of boost to run 70 MPH. When getting into the pedal the high reading hits when the turbo first spools up right after the lag, then it tapers off as RPM builds. I didn't run it wide open from a dead stop to obtain a true maximum reading.
Air inlet temperature (AIT) was interesting. On my gas burner the AIT was only a couple of degrees above outside temperature at highway speed. On the CRD the AIT ran around 85 - 95 F at 70 MPH. When I slowed down to 45 MPH in town the AIT climbed to 137 - 140 F. After a 3 to 4 minute idle it dropped to 95 F. It looks like the AIT is measured after the EGR inlet feed?
Except for Inlet Air Temperature, all of the rest of the readings were nominal. Analog readings for tachometer and speedometer closely matched digital values coming from the CRD.
I scanned for codes and the unit found no codes and came back “Ready” which means all tests were successfully completed by the OBDII system. I will be putting around 1k miles on the CRD over the holidays with the ScanGuage in place. Maybe something will turn up.
I'm a new member, but have been reading the Liberty forums for a few months now. I ordered a 2006 limited CRD Oct. 5th with a delivery date of 6-10 weeks. Well 10 weeks have gone by now and I'm told the Jeep is still "scheduled for build"
This delay is causing me to re-think my decision to buy and maybe I'll back out and wait for the bugs to get worked out?
Michelle in New Mexico (crd4me2)
Biodiesel - no war required
Farout
Farout
CRD4Me2/Michelle
(B100) - "Runs fine"
Crappy supermarket gasoline runs fine too, but mechanics know it, over the long term, disagrees with modern, efficient gas engines. Cancer usually goes undetected at first, too. DC and industry experts have warned us on the biodiesel thing- so I'll gladly rat to your Jeep service manager when the inevitable problems develop.
"Biodiesel - no war required"
ANWR / Coastal California & Florida petroleum: No war required, either ???
When massive quantities of additional wildlands and developable properties and scarce irrigation water need to be appropriated toward biofuels production, we'll just have civil war instead. I say use up stored energies first- and Save the Whales- until technologies less-backward and limited than biofuels mature ! Or are you thinking if only you get cheap biodiesel- and everybody else has to take the bus and keep their thermostats at 62 degrees (the most insidious, psychotic core-belief typical of those with the BFD disorder) ?
In my 70F comfort and at 10F outside, I'm selfishly glad, like you, not everyone heats with my alternative energy source (inexpensive forest wood). But even my firewood won't be cheap and easily available without keeping America's enemies at bay; thereby keeping the petroleum-based energy flowing for the rest. To deny that fact would be to have FFD (Firewood Fantasy Disease). Is your BFD better now ?
I have not called in to his radio show or emailed him for follow-up. Did I hear correctly?
We have a Biodiesel vehicles discussion for those wanting to get into that fun area ~ tax subsidies anyone?
Dave, I haven't seen any news about a 30% efficiency pop by Honda. They are doing cylinder deactivation in some models like GM (Odyssey iirc). Some folks can increase their mpg 10% just by inflating their tires to the manufacturer's recommendation, so 30% shouldn't be that huge of a stretch. Doesn't seem to be happening too fast though.
Steve, Host
What might those problems be? DC sends each Lib CRD out with B5. Running B20 should not cause any kind of problem. As a matter of fact I spoke with the Mercedes service manager in Hawaii about running B100 in the E320 CDI and he said that so far they have not had any problems related to biodiesel. The biodiesel used in Hawaii is old restaurant oil. It was being dumped in the land fill. Can you think of a better use for it? If I had a dealer selling B20 biodiesel in San Diego I would be using it in my VW TDI.
What is unhealthy is breathing the dust and smoke from a wood fired stove. I heated with wood for several years and wondered why I had a hard time breathing.
Well yeah! Chevron products are superior, so that cheap gas is good gas out of the gate. We have ARCO as base gas here and it's far from the best.
Lots of fast food in Hawaii and importation of fuel is expensive. Large scale production of quality biodiesel makes sense
Thanks for responding. I believe compression ignition means no spark plugs just like with diesel fuel. We caught the comment late and believe the first letter of this development began with the letter "M".
About tire inflation. I saw a post(somewhere) where the jeep tire was inflated to 44psi. Tirerack will tell them the "tire will shred itself". A tire store manager told me we could get better mileage and ride by underinflating our 41psi rated P235/75r15XL ford conversion van tires from the 41 psi ford recommendation. Load rating per psi charts are available as well as for those who change down from a P rated to an LT tire[speed rating(or new lower max speed) and tire pressure increase needed too].
I would like to hint at the other forums I lurk at for the uninitaited. They allow it but I know Edmunds doesn't.
There are two good ball joint threads as well as two retirees, navy guys, using two aftermarket mufflers to replace our inferior gasser muffler.
How far can I go without offending Edmunds rule about other discussion forums.
I maybe getting lost permanently.
Thank you for the nudge adjustment in a post long ago and allowing me to fix and repost it. I was wondering if caribou1 is lurking elsewhere too or staying here exclusively, like I have wanted to do.
3% is a more realistic number for the tires; the 10% I was thinking of can result if you replace a dirty air filter. (link)
I'll keep an ear open for that Honda story.
Steve, Host
Turns out my Dad's childhood friend is one of the top Jeep Liberty design engineers. He is going over my numbers and is going to try to help me with the economy issues. I faxed him the info yesterday and then on the way to go hunting this morning I hit a deer and messed up the Libby pretty good. Had to have it towed to the body shop and I have on idea when I'll get it back. Maybe I'll get a loaner that get's decent mileage.
If nothing is resolved I will be contacting an attorney also because I purchased this vehicle because of the promised economy. They still have the "500 mile" per tank ad on their web site. What a joke. :sick:
Turns out my Dad's childhood friend is one of the top Jeep Liberty design engineers. He is going over my numbers and is going to try to help me with the economy issues. I faxed him the info yesterday and then on the way to go hunting this morning I hit a deer and messed up the Libby pretty good. Had to have it towed to the body shop and I have on idea when I'll get it back. Maybe I'll get a loaner that get's decent mileage.
If nothing is resolved I will be contacting an attorney also because I purchased this vehicle because of the promised economy. They still have the "500 mile" per tank ad on their web site. My last tank before the deer was a mind blowing 17.38 MPG What a joke. :sick:
In town on my commute I get a solid 23 mpg (EVIC says 24.5).
I'd have to be doing tire smoking power brakes at every stop light to get 17 mpg. Mine was getting 19's/ 20's in town when brand new with the A/C on, but I haven't gotten near that since summer.
I wish 3.55 gears were an option (or std). I feel 30 mpg @ 70 mph would be possible with those gears.
That is only off by 23% from the EPA estimate. There are people paying $50k for a Lexus hybrid SUV that are only getting 19 MPG when they should be getting 29 MPG Combined. That is 35% off of the EPA estimate. You will just waste your money with an attorney. Think about this. At least you can feel comfortable about going off road with your SUV. The Lexus RX400h is rated for highway only. With a 20.5 gallon tank you would have to drive lightly to get 500 miles.
Just like winter2 wrote a few days ago, I like to keep things going especially when they are made by people who have faith in what they do (I'm not talking about DC dealers). Funny thing, I also blew a connecting rod on a Volvo 544 B16 in 1970!
Now I'm in my 3rd winter season with the CRD, weather was -7C this morning and again the engine started with great ease. I have almost covered 15,000 miles without changing my oil, and it doesn't stick!
I grew up with wood heat and still use it. You're right- old wood stoves, other older "wood-fired" appliances; like older diesels, suffer from incomplete combustion and are often leaky. Technology, good equipment, and good fuel rule the day!
Select and use your biodiesel carefully and I'm on board with it. The militant biofuels crowd, usually anti-establishment folk at both extremes of the political spectrum, and Big Agriculture, promote them recklessly. My somewhat selfish agenda is to minimize bad fuel as the culprit in any problems the CRD may have. Wheat from the chaff. Plus, we all should care about the dispensing of bad advice to others.
Maybe we need the government to further regulate :mad: the handling of commercial waste fat so it's conversion to engine-safe biofuel is more assured. :lemon:
As soon as biodiesel becomes establishment, many of its supporters will find much fault with it.
The Bio additive I've been using comes from canola oil.
Next year I will start using recycled waste cooking oil up to 10%. I'm just curious, I take the time but I'm not over enthusiastic about the outcome. I think we should use the bio fuels where we use a lot of fuel, ie heating and industry.
You can make an argument that B100 is not fully tested and should not be used (based on the solvency issue), but B20 and below is perfectly fine for our engines.
If I can buy US made fuel (grown by US farmers and processed by US refineries) than I will.
14,500 miles and original egr. second new air cleaner. Mobil 1 0-40 every 6250 miles now. Bridgestone Dueller HL Alenzas at 35psi. Currently, happily blending CRC diesel plus and powerservice after injector cleanout with a full bottle of redline. Brakes not dragging, e brake adjusted, not part of the bad transmission filter group, original cooling fans. And yes I do winter2's recommendation of a first of the day idle to fill the torque converter.
If all this sounds familiar, and more than one dealer has tried to help, then maybe you deserve a present from santa by trading in now for a " " and get a vehicle you can drive instead of reading posts and going to the dealer.
And by this post you know that I too spend too much time with this vehicle and posts, I don't treat this vehicle like a 50's 60's euro sports car and do monthly, weekly, daily tighten this fix that etc. We own a malibu but this jeep owns us.
I am generally concerned about the ball joints and the front end design of the liberty showing how failure results in separation whereas decades ago I drove an old cadillac with bad ball joints that would pop in/out over rr tracks and allowed me to to drive it until the money was available for the fix. Moog has one answer and somebody else said to moose the retaining nut just short of a hernia.
You'll find that Big Agriculture says alot of things to coerce the people and politicians. You could use "Big" anything and you will see strong-arm, mind-bending tactics.
However little, or medium, agriculture is a little different. I personally know a few of the local B* distributors and the highest they will go in the winter in Central IN is B2. One is going to try B5. They love the stuff BUT they do not have an army of lawyers like the BIGS do. They also have a much smaller client base to where if one truck gelled at 7AM, 5 counties would know about it before lunch. There are a few sites in Indiana selling B20 but the locals consider it "risky." I am working to talk them into a summer/winter Blend of B20/B5.
As for soy biodiesel versus Caribou's home brew, don't know. Don't care. What does matter to me is that the soydiesel has a specific quality criterion which allows it to be uniform and standardized. This is allowing to gain access to the market. The fuel/motor industry was/is very touchy (and there is still some fearmongering) about the quality and uniformity.
Though they are putting in a Soy Biodiesel plant in 6 miles from my house, I assure you that I am getting no money or kickbacks. However a little B100 on the side would be nice...
You can also read my other Biodiesel tome at post #2418
Cheers,
Boilermaker2
First of all, when it comes to turbos, I'm terribly green. I've never owned one. Taking the engine cover off, I see more hoses, clamps and doo-hickeys than I can shake a stick at. Unlike more straightforward engines I've owned, this hose-covered monster looks like something NASA created instead of Detroit (Thank you EPA).
So, would someone please give me and others, a specific rundown of what you are tightening, snugging and re-routing?
You would approach hero status if you had your own site where you could load up photos and point things out (This doo-hickey is your turbo. Here is the clamp that will cause you a load of trouble. Etc.) Maybe Steve can help in this deparmtent. Either way, this would be a nice addition to this forum. After snugging, I think I have accurate enough records to show a before/after fuel economy change if there is one.
Cheers,
Boilermaker2
There is a vibration noise coming from around my CRD engine during its greatest vibration. This is almost exclusively during acceleration, but sometimes immediately after a high RPM downshift.
This noise first occurred after my routine 6,200 mile service at the dealer. I'm hestitant to let them have access to it again to correct it- or do anything more, really. Except that the service was FREE, I would have done it myself. Luckily, the noise is not getting worse with time.
Does anyone have experience correcting an irritating, high frequency 'rattle' associated with peak engine vibration? I've tried various things to isolate it at the top end without success.
It sounds metallic in origin, but could be related to plastic parts, too. The metal exhaust shielding is a little suspect.
Really don't know how they could have messed things up on such a minor service, which give me even greater pause. Again, the vibration is normal, but the feedback from some under-secured part isn't. Thanks.
Pic posting instructions are in the Help link on the left. You'll have to have a hosting site since we aren't set up to let you upload photos here.
Steve, Host
What you call Caribou's home brew complies to the official DIN 51606 specification agreed by most automobile manufacturers. Pure soy, canola, sunflower and burger joint waste oils become even once they are transesterified.
http://www.biocarb.ch/ is where it's made, just down the road from work
I'll stand corrected even though I can't read French (went to the link).
What I was talking about was the "home brews". There may be recycling oil plant in CA but not here in the midwest that I'm aware of. I was referring to the garage brews which scare the death out of the auto manufactures do to quality control. There is one registered company that does more that soy. They can be found registered at.
Hope you didn't feel singled out. The intent was not there. Either way, you made me re-read my post and research a follow-up (as opposed to a rebuttle). :shades:
Cheers,
Boilermaker
Do what the host says, buy a shop manual. I bought early from DC. Wrong. Then I bought a cd from canada on ebay based on a post from anomius, I believe. Look up that old post and buy the good cd on ebay if it is still available $57 ?
Caribou1 dropped that info in a post long ago and nobody followed up on it. I believe it is the intercooler hose that has a plastic sleeve over it. On the surface of the rubber hose under the plastic sleeve, I have oil sweating?
Wiped it once because I had a defective ps resorvoir cap that was wobbly and blew out aft+4 if i filled it to the cold max level. I ordered a new cap after looking at other jeeps and the new cap was less wobbly and seems to be holding the fluid in. The parts manager couldn't believe what he was seeing. We know from checking new vehicles that our crd isn't the only one.
I believe that is all I can get away with.
- Try using an on-line translator, and at least you can get the feeling of what's going on. I have to do that very often for work. It's just a 'copy - paste' operation.
There are many other countries that have interresting web sites and we share the same terminology:
JEEP CRD,
BOSCH CP3,
CRD PROBLEM%,
etc.
It seems eastern europe will be leading the bio-fuel demand because they are 'arriving', rapidly catching up and getting the most recent technologies. That's one of the nice things for us all: there will be great pressure on the automobile industry and refineries to produce and use cleaner fuel. We may even find bio-gasket kits for our Jeeps
:confuse:
After reading some of the issues others are having with their CRD's. and how much they are spending foe fuel additives, cetane boosters, anti-gel, and this Bio diesel, and tightening clamps, and air filters, and a host of things that I wouldn't put up with. If someone wants to spend this much time with a CRD Jeep, you might as well see if you can claim it as a dependent at tax time!
I intend to change oil at around 9,000 miles. I check my oil about every three fill ups or about 1,000 miles. When I change oil I will use the 5/40 Mobil 1. I am using the engine heater when it's suppose to get to 25Fh. or below. I think the CRD is a good solid 4X4 and that's what I expect. I really believe the old motto "IF IT Ain't BROKE Don't FIX IT !" I Wish you a Merry Christmas.
Farout