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I went to Tarbox 3-4 weeks ago - the last 2005 CRD on the lot was just sold and they would allow me to test drive (which I very much respect - if they had I wouldn't consider buying from them because, if the tables were turned, I wouldn't want MY newly purchased car sent out on a test drive)!
If I ultimately decide on a CRD I will shop at least two dealers. That said, how has your service experience been with Tarbox??? For me that is a consideration - I believe in getting service / maintenance where I bought, and I'm willing to pay a little more up front for a dealer with good service.
what's the magic additive?
Thanks! LK
P. S. You can tell me...I won't tell anyone! Lol
On another site some cut into these companies, but would not try the products, but based their thoughts faith that nothing will work and all is snake oil. I don't recommend anyone try anything unless it is backed up by large scale testing. Also a one time testimonial such as myself is suspect because my engine may run better because it just likes the taste of the stuff. I did notice that at first there was no change, but then both companies claim there should be a cleaning out time before one could be expected. Will let you know how today goes with the H2 0 stuff. BR
It took them a couple of times to figure out the egr problem when I had it. When I got mine they only had one tech trained to work on the crd, I think they have more than one now. For my troubles they did an oil change for the bubble, considering it cost around $80, I was happy. I've been there for all scheduled maintanence so far and they seem to be good. Best of luck in your search!!
I also have the same trouble code but my dealer has not found a solution yet.
Thank You
Have an 06 with 3000 mi. and am getting 21-23 so far at
higher than average highway speeds.
Question; Has anyone taken off the fuel filter cannister
yet? Does it make a mess taking it off? Should we take it
off periodically to check for water?
Liberty, or MB or Dodge Ram etc.
You all forget to factor in the cost of the FUNERALS for all those that freeze to death in their diesels when they jell up and quite running in the middle of the road when it get 20 or more below 0!
I don't care what anyone says, they will jell up, even when your just tooling down the road, if it's -20 or below. Try all your additive it still will jell up.
A gas car won't. And I know of no gas engine that won't go over 200,000 today if you change the oil and drive it right. Who keeps a car over 200,000?
I have had 2 MB diesels. I would never have another.
1. You have to paint your garage ever two years due to
diesel soot on the walls.
2. Dirty to fuel. Have to have gloves.
3. Get diesel oil on your shoes sometime and get it in the
car.
4. Diesel cars stink, (smell bad)
5. They make too much noise.
6. They cost 3 times as much to fix as a gas engine.
7. Hard to get worked on. (take much longer)
8. Can't always find fuel. (getting better)
9. Jell up in the winter. Very unreliable in cold country.
10. Fuel is more expensive.
I know diesels have gotten better, but so have gas engines.
If I needed real pulling power in a truck, I look at a diesel, but in a car (in the USA) no way.
The way I look at it you will break even with a diesel at just about the time it wears out. So why put up with all the disadvantages of the diesel for that.
And look at me, it usually take a person 2 diesels to figure that out!
I have had the transmission TSB, the fuel filter assembly replaced and am currently waiting on some parts for the EGR cooler assembly (it has an exhaust leak in this area).
Mileage has been as low as 17 & as high as 29.
Average has been around 22.
I use 8 oz Power Service on each fillup.
1. I don't have a rocked garage-not an issue.
2. Not that bad-just get used to it.
3. Watch where you are putting your fuel and your feet.
4. I like the smell of Diesel in the morning. The CRD doesn't smell like a Diesel unless it is below 20F and then only until it warms up.
5. The CRD is as quiet as any gasser.
6. Can't argue much with that one.
7. Need to find a shop specializing in diesels.
8. Never have had any problem finding a Diesel pump.
9. I have had my Dodge Diesel for over 12 years. Temps way below 0 and have NEVER had a gel up. If you use anti-gel and proper blends of fuel it will keep going along.
It currently has 210000+ and I plan on keeping it for quite a few more years.
10. Current fuel costs are greater, didn't use to be. Still getting 50% better mileage than the Durango I was driving. I put on over 400 mi/week just going to work so I am still saving $.
I am also looking at the long term fuel availability issues. The diesel will burn other things, the first ones used peanut oil-no engine mods needed. The fuel injected gas engine will not take to alcohol without being factory designed or carbureted.
The big trucks use diesels because they stand the test of time. I think the CRD will too.
Steve, Host
Thanks...LK
Also, are there any significant differences between the 05 and 06 models?
PS If there had been no reference to what I was smoking in YOUR post, I would not have posted this. (but then when you have someone who doesn't appreciate the finer points of a MB, what can you expect?)
To all others who read this post I apologize.
It was unprofessional. Sorry.
I must thank mdamick,(a real gentleman.) He started his post " I respectfully disagree" If I would only think twice before typing.
My original post was not posted with any disrespect toward the Liberty or diesel. It was just a report of the history I had with diesel cars.
Says with this it's good for 5,000# towing w/750# tongue.
Looks like you need about a 10" to 14" extension bar to get the ball past the spare tire and a ball mount with about a 4" rise to get the ball to 20" high. (use up some tongue load with the extension)
Is the 3,500# combined car and trailer? If so, OK. Folks on this site have commented about what they've towed.
Differences between '05 and '06? '05 got a 7 yr 70k mile warranty. '06 got 3 yr & 36k mile. Seems like per the discussion here, a problem with the EGR valve may have been fixed and the engine computer programing may be improved.
Anyway, the data stream interrupted many times over the 1k miles. It would seldom work more than an hour without stopping. Nothing special seemed to be causing the interruption. There seemed to be no correlation between interrupts and any driving conditions or computer readings.
Here is the odd thing. Once during the trip in got jerking after an onramp for about 5 or 6 seconds and the data stream DID NOT interrupt! It was also a couple of miles after refueling.
I never saw an engine coolant temperature reading greater than 173F during the trip. By comparison, my brother’s Jetta TDI runs at 190F. Doesn’t 173F seem a little low for engine coolant temperature on a diesel? Outside temperature ranged between 25 and 54F.
It's pretty sad when someone replies to his own post.
All of the diesel powered Calibers are going to Europe where the fuel is ultra-low sulfur!!!!!
Emissions rules will be tightening over the next few years with the first notch being put in place next year. DC diesels should be able to meet these new rules with ULSD. PM filters are already being used in Europe with very good results. The only tough nut left to crack is NOx. There are some good viable solutions for this problem.
I expect to see the Caliber here.
Steve, Host
I'm beginning to question the affect of temperature on the CRD. Temps. during my trip were 40 to 46 F. During times that temps. are less than 40, my mileage seems to suffer greatly. Prior diesels that I've owned were lest efficient in winter due to winterized fuel and cold temps, however, none of them had a mileage decrease as high as the CRD.
However, my coldest start was 12F(-11C). Does starting get substantially worse at -20F(-29C), say?
My old 1981 Isuzu diesel car did start at -20F on the second try and was never plugged in. Pre-heat time was 3.5 seconds each time. It had been sitting in -20F cold for three days before I started it.
The coldest my CRD has seen is +9F and it started instantly and it was not plugged in.
The engine is running very rough, and the ETC (Electronic Throttle Control) warning light starting flashing. The engine is very slow to start.
Other than the bad fuel, I have run a B20 blend of biodiesel, and it runs great. That's why I chose the diesel, was to run biodiesel, help the farmers (who grow the soybeans that makes the biodiesel), and tell big oil to 'stick it'.
Good luck! LK