Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Comments
What year did the Jeep Liberty first come with the diesel?
Does the diesel have an engine oil life indicator? If so, does it show by % of how much oil life is left or does it just let you know its time for an oil change?
loosened when pumping the knob, not turning it.
What I would like someone to explain is the knob on the bottom of the cannister. Does it let out fuel when unscrewed?
Where did you read about the 'bleeder valve'?
The National Biodiesel Board's web site is a great resource for information. I hope everyone will visit it and promote its use.
Reference to Biodiesel - In the Owner's Manual, on page 279 of the 'Starting And Operating' section, it states "This vehicle is fully compatible with biodiesel blends up to 5% biodiesel meeting ASTM specification D-975". (That's all I could find.)
- - DaimlerChrysler Commits Land to Future Biodiesel Plant - -
NextEnergy Center, a research facility focused on developing alternative energy technology, is bringing together automakers and biodiesel producers to further biodiesel research and development.
At the grand opening of the research center, located in Detroit’s Tech Town community, NextEnergy CEO Jim Croce announced plans with Biodiesel Industries and DaimlerChrysler to research the development of oil producing crops that can be grown on existing “Brownfield” sites to produce feedstocks for renewable, alternative fuels, as well as further refinement of biodiesel standards. Croce also announced plans for Biodiesel Industries to build a biodiesel production plant in Detroit.
“Biodiesel Industries has many years of advanced development and production experience in the otherwise young biodiesel industry,” said Croce. “Given the tremendous national market demand for their product, we are delighted that Biodiesel Industries has chosen Detroit for their next biodiesel production facility.”
Biodiesel Industries plans to build a three million gallon-per-year biodiesel production facility. It will be the sixth such production project completed by Biodiesel Industries, which already posts the largest network of company owned biodiesel production facilities in the world.
DaimlerChrysler committed currently unused land at a former SuperFund environmental site for use in producing soybeans for NextEnergy research programs. DaimlerChrysler has promoted use of biodiesel fuel nationally with the launch of the Jeep® Liberty CRD diesel, which was fueled at the factory with B5, a five percent biodiesel blend.
NextEnergy is a non-profit organization created by the State of Michigan to advance the Alternative Energy Technology industry in Michigan. The organization hosted a Grand Opening of the NextEnergy Center facility on Sept. 29.
Steve, Host
I believe that you are correct about the "knob" on the bottom being a sensor, but when taken off wouldn't there be a hole in the bottom of the cannister?
Anyway, the bleeder valve was mentioned to me by a friend well
versed in diesels. The valve must have some function. I just wanted the facts before I started messing with it. My crd only has 3100 miles on it. Curiosity killed the cat.
My previous vehicle was a full size 4WD GMC truck, I replaced it with this jeep and purchased a utility trailer for the times I need to carry serious cargo.
I get better mileage with a loaded trailer than I did with the GMC empty.
I would like better mileage towing, but I consider 20 with the trailer pretty good.
Western offers a plow package for the Liberty. Has anyone installed or used one?
Since the 1970's the manufacturers have made great strides, and car bodies last much much longer.
That said, keeping the car clean / waxed and regular hosing of the underside to remove salt is probably a good idea. Ditto repairing scratches with touch up paint - once the "seal" of paint / primer is penetrated rust has a place to start and then spread into internal cavities, in which in can continue to spread until you see it when the metal rusts through from the inside (such as rocker panels).
One thing I didn't like was that while cruising at say 50-60 it seemed to lug a little - shuddering almost - a vibration from the drivetrain reminiscent of some vehicles from the '80's with lockup torque converters. Like the tranny should have downshifted one gear, but didn't.
Has anyone else experienced this? Is it typical, or just a fluke with the one I drove?
Thanks in advance ...
There is not a oil life indicator/gague.
Boiler
Cheers,
Boilermaker
In the 70's when you had good glow plugs and 15W-40 oil in the engine, you had enough engine compression by default (the oil was sticky) as long as the battery was ok. The advantage of these old diesel engines is that you can push the vehicle to get it started without a battery!
My (3rd winter) 2003 CRD starts very well even around -30C, wind factor included since it sleeps outside. What I usually do is give my battery a chance by letting two glow plug cycles warm the battery elements before starting the engine. The stock red colored 'Optima' gel battery gives excellent service in the cold.
The main difference between my two diesel engines is that the old one starts instantly and the CRD spins for a second without firing. This is probably for assuring there is enough clean air in the cylinder and enough crankshaft momentum to reach the self-ignition temperature.
None of these engines leave black marks on the snow.
on a vehicle?
DMC vehicles go through phosphate rinse and dip tanks varying between acid and alkaline. Then they go through electrostatic coating dip tanks which coat every nook and cranny, which then get baked on in the oven. After this it goes through "powder", which sprays on a polymer based powder that melts when in the
oven to form a hard chip resistant shell.
water separator fuel filter housing and cannister. The knob
is on the right of the housing, and is a primer pump. There
is a bleeder valve on the opposite side, which I believe needs to be loosened when priming. I would presume that after dumping the cannister one would have to prime the system, but not having done it yet, I don't know. I may play with this thing today. Too bad the manual is quiet on this subject.
http://www.parker.com/RACOR/PRODUCTTABLES/TABLE-SPINON-LOWFLOW.JPG
On mine it's a model 230, and to drain out the water you need to unscrew the knurled plug that's on the bottom bowl next to the water sensor (where the 2 wires are connected).
Once the fuel+??? removed, either disconnect the fuel hose going to the pump or open the drain plug to let the air out while priming.
I'm a bit nervous about using the drain plug because mine starts to swet when priming. This may not be 100% sure if done somewhere out in the nature. :confuse:
I can raise the rear end about 4 inches at full pressure (35psi). When not towing I reduce the air to about 10 lbs. Simple and not costly, about 100 bucks.
No problems in other sites. Same in Win 2000 on this otherwise able dual Pentium 2 machine. "Portly programming", I suspect. Where's the "Liberty CRD Site" site? :confuse:
Try a $15 Linux edition for a pleasant change :shades:
I think mine has a spin on cannister. Does yours have a large primer knob on the right side with a bleeder valve on the left like mine?
DRAINING WATER IN FUEL
WARNING: STORE FUEL IN APPROVED AND PROPERLY
MARKED CONTAINERS. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES
AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING
WHEN SERVICING FUEL SYSTEM.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Disconnect the water in fuel (WIF) wiring harness
connector located under the fuel filter.
(3) Connect a drain hose to the WIF sensor.
(4) Place the other end of the drain hose in a
approved and properly marked container.
(5) Open the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter
housing.
(6) Loosen the WIF sensor on the bottom of the
fuel filter to begin draining.
(7) Allow the filter to drain into the container until
fuel is visible.
(8) Tighten the WIF sensor, remove the drain hose
and clean any spillage.
(9) Tighten the bleeder screw on top of the fuel filter
housing.
My issue is the transmission does not upshift soon enough. They are not using the torque of the diesel that does not need to spool up before shifting.
If you could get the lockup to occur just after shifting into each gear I think the mileage would improve considerably.
In my Dodge I can be in 4th gear at 35 mph and it will pull along just fine. It only sees 2500 rpm if I want to wind it up. The CRD is hard to keep below it with the Auto.
spete
Anything with less than 7,500 miles on it is considered new in California I suppose, from reading that FAQ.
Steve, Host
Farout
Farout
Farout
Once you are logged in the speed should be zippy; if not, you may want to try logging out, clearing your cache and logging in again.
Steve, Host
Yes, the speed is ZIP!(sorry): No matter what I do on my end. Look to whatever conditions existed just after the 1st of the year- when we had a brief return of sensibility. It's time to take down the fancy "christmas decorations". Microsoft wants us to run Linux, not!