Until today I used Yacco 5W-40 100% synthetic provided by the dealership. I just purchased Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 and I will see if there is any difference. I have 65000Km now. Where did you buy your filters?
Which protocol is your ScanGauge using? I was told the CRD uses CAN-ISO. It would be nice to edit the engine and transmission CPU parameters. A few years ago some cars already had a button on the dashboard to select between 'normal', 'sport' and 'winter' conditions. This would really be a dreamworld
Not all Libertys have skid plates. Could that be the source of clearance error?
I knew mine was more car-like in clearance before purchase. Did get great traction and towing ability, etc- and my wife likes it. I am leaning towards a 2-1/2" lift to raise the oil filter, cross-member, and muffler; but am waiting to hear how others fare with a lift in towing performance.
I have looked at your postings and others as well and now see a different problem other than a major vacuum leak.
Since the turbo oil feed line enters the top of the housing and that is the one that happened to break. I am now concerned that the bearing in the turbo could have seized. According to the dealer, the line was cracked, but oil had been sprayed against the side of the engine. The loss of power was quite sudden so I think the bearing is fried. :sick:
Possible but not certain. A friend of mine once measured the time needed to destroy an engine that had lost all of it's oil. This goes more than 30 years back... The car (a Chrysler-Simca) had a severe accident and was due for the scrap yard. It ran all day without knocking and when came dinner time the thing kept on going. To destroy it someone revved it to it's maximun until finally a connecting rod broke. This is why I'm not certain your bearing died that day! Another thing comes to my mind: If you have less oil pressure, the OBD sees it.
A little bit of encouragement goes a long way. But the thing that bothers me is the sudden power loss. I also had alot of noise thereafter in the form of a loud whooshing sound. I hope you are right.
Does anyone know how many Jeep CRD’s are planned for production for 2006? I believe they produced 8300 in 2005 and I hope the number is higher this year. When I stopped at the dealer the other day I asked the salesman if this was the only CRD and he said, they are hard to come by. (Of course, why would I expect any other answer.) :surprise:
Dealer just called and the CRD is fixed. I have new information. The hose coming off of the turbo and going to the intercooler ruptured. So the oil lines are intact! Whew!!!
I believe caribou is right .They are built pretty tough. You'll know when the bearing is shot , when the engine is running by a high pitch whining noise or a deep rumbling noise. But even if the line was cracked ,there is a very good chance the bearing would have seen oil still ,and is hopefully fine in your case. If you have a hint of a problem I would take it back and get it replaced.Which I believe is a pressed on bearing. Chances are you are fine after the oil line is fixed. Speak Soon... Lightnin3..
I wouldn't bother with the lift kit, mileage would suffer as well as handeling.
Ask yourself what an I going to use it for? going to work,Road use ,and towing 95% of the time? or rock hopping 5% ?...
your money would be better used in a set of good all terrain tires,and class3, 2 in. towing hitch sleeve with 7 pin power for trailer brakes. and a years supply of powerservice fuel additive for mileage . But you could bring to a strut and shock mechanic to see if any mods were done or if it is possible to set them to their original height.
If you can't find a CRD and would drive to Colorado to buy one, check out Champion Jeep in Greeley, CO. I bought mine there and they have several more left.
I think there is something different for sure. Our CRD does not go into %th OD until 58mph. I can slowly take it down to 56mph and it will stay only of a long flat road or freeway. Who knows, I sure don't. I did have the dealer re program all the computers on our CRD last Monday. Believe it or not we really got 23.4mpg ! There is hope we may yet see even better fuel mileage. The Service Tec told us that the converter in the transmission does not get a varnish until 14,000miles or there about, and them it will be easier to get the trans to stay in at 56mph. Hope he knows what he is saying.
Do you hold stock in power service? I have experienced over 32 MPG on the highway with no additives at 40F degrees. Don't look for problems that don't exist. just run it 10,000 miles Just smiles
Sorry, Caribou1, I do not know the answer to that question. The unit has automatic mode recognition that either did not display the mode during setup or I missed it. The instruction manual lists ISO, VPW and CANSF as modes to try for Chrysler products if auto rec fails.
That is good news, Winter 2. I posted a while back that I was able to easily reach 23 lbs of boost when the turbo first spools up at full throttle. The hoses that run to and from the intercooler look like common but good quality radiator hoses. I seldom saw over 12 lbs of boost in normal driving. I guess I need to carry a spare fuel filter and a roll of duck tape.
The only thing which "Power Service Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost" did for my CRD was make the exhaust smell worse. No increase in power. No increase in MPG (with which I'm still not impressed at 5,300 miles on the clock). Just more empty space in my wallet!
Hi guys...No I don't have stock in it ,although I wish I did.. I just believe , diesel fuel additives do work.
I am just "show and telling" my results for the "benefit " of all. There is a purpose for these products,and I believe it does work. To most people who are new to diesel engines have to know that fuel is half the battle,oil changes is the other half...
Thats like saying that there will never be water in your fuel, , when the temperature drops below freezing,and you fill up with cold diesel from a tank thats full of condensation. Why ..you might be pumping mostly water instead of fuel....
Just talk to a trucker about diesel fuel mileage,and water in fuel,don't take my word for it. Thats why they invented gas line antifreeze,or methyl hydrate,or in this case diesel fuel additives,or no.1 diesel fuel. I feel for you if you haven't seen any better results. Speak Soon... Lightnin3..
Ya baby Thats' what I like to here... You see guys good fuel mileage is... possible,I am not lying here. Let me guess S4 you drive a stick right ?? Thats one of those 6 speed jobbies, or are do you have the 5 sp. automatic? What is your typical cruising speed,and RPM's on the hyway?
How do you achieve this awesome mileage factor,"WE" want to know...
Well, I've been watching this forum as part of my "due diligence" regarding issues / owner experience with the CRD, and yesterday I pulled the trigger - ordered a 2006 CRD Limited 4x4, essentially with every option except sunroof and nav.
Now waiting for DCX to build it. Hope they don't take too long, now that I've ordered I want it yesterday!
I appreciate all who post here - it is useful for us considering a particular model, and once I'm experiencing my CRD I intend to post and share my experiences for others.
Hi Farout, Try to use cruise control when it feasable on the flats.
The time to have her in cruise at 56-58 mph which is feasable on the flat areas of the hyway.
the tranny would be normally kick out of OD with a slope of any kind or labor the engine in a low gear. At that point don't race up the hill just keep a steady speed up the hill and let the engine work. The point is to keep the RPM's down under 2000,if your are looking to travel and trying to conserve fuel.
There is a break in period ,that will suck fuel at first ,mainly because the parts in the internals of the engine are still being worn in.Sometimes referred to as tight. It will take around 20 000 miles for the diesel engine to fully be broken in.
If you want to maximize your mileage ,before any long trip or every 3000 miles change the oil and filter. Treat it like a car for oil changes,and use the recommended oil from the manual. It is acceptable to use mobile 1 5W40 Synthetic if you find it cheaper at the Walmart instead of going to the dealer and paying top dollar for your oil changes thats fine too.
Changing oil will help mileage. The idea is to get the sludgy ,metal shaving filled oil out of there, This has a tendency to develop alot of heat and extra friction ,that drops your overall fuel mileage. Oh did I forget to mention to make sure your tire pressure is at 35 pounds?? Good luck let me know how you made out.. Speak Soon ... lightnin3..
Hi ThomasW , You may have to be patient. My buddy just got his 06 Libby.... He waited , 8 WEEKS !... to be delivered to the dealer. Make sure there isn't a hold on the order. Making a phone call to the DCX scheduler after a month of waiting at the Teledo North plant will help with the delivery status .They may be able to push it through quicker for you. I prefer to buy my vehicles, off the lot. Because I know ,I can get right away, plus the dealers are more willing to give a better price , when it's on the lot. Speak Soon ... Lightnin3..
I've been told 6-8 weeks, but it was made clear that such was only an "estimate."
I'm currently leasing a vehicle and that expires at the end of Feb, so I have some cushion. If it goes over, might have to "call Enterprise" for a couple of weeks and/or beg-plead the dealer to give me a loaner.
One "crossing my fingers thought" is that the dealer already has 7 CRD's on order, for a while now, and no VIN's yet. As I'm supposing that Toledo only builds the CRD's in batches (which would make sense for assembly line efficiency) I am hoping that a "new batch" of CRD production may be imminent and that, because "sold" orders get priority, I may get lucky and take delivery before 2/28.
Yes, I believe there is a fuel heater in the CRD Liberty. There is actually a fuse for it in the fuse box. I believe the heater is located in the fuel filter canister. Was just curious of the specs on it.
P.S. By the way. I am new on here and would like to say that I really enjoy my 2005 CRD Liberty. 7K miles with no problems. I use premium BP 47 Cetane Diesel. Modifications include: Replacing the stock tires with Michelins and buying the sport utility bars from Jeep in order to haul bikes and kayaks. Cheers! crddude.
Glad I could help. Yes the fuel heater is up with the filter assembly. It is electric also. That is about all I can help you with. I haven't had a chance to look at the service manual yet. I also got different tires on my CRD. That I did before ever reading this site. My CRD has 17,500 miles on it and is one of the first ones out on the streets.
I have used two quarts in 9500 miles. I used the first quart about 3800 miles and one at 8000 miles. I saw NO IMPROVEMENT IN FUEL MILEAGE AT ALL ! However there was almost an unnoticeable, (perhaps even my imagination) some quietness in the engine. This was surely not worth the almost $6.00 a quart! I think the CRD would be better off with a larger oil filter. Have you seen how little this oil filter is? $12.50 is what the dealer charged for this filter which I think is smaller than our 96 or 04 Neon's are. The thing that increased our mpg is the oil change at 9100 miles. We went from 21 to 23.4 mpg! So maybe changing oil at 6,000miles would be better. I am with you on the empty wallet thing!
lightnin3: No disrespect intended, and I believe that it does get much colder in Windsor, Canada, than the middle of Missouri. That may well be why I see no noticeable difference in mileage or anything, but perhaps there might be the very smallest feeling of a smoother running of the engine, if it isn't the power of suggestion, I am really not for sure. Maybe if it ever gets to be winter here this year than I might need to try it. We have been having 65 F days and 38 F nights, very unnatural for this time of year.
lightnin3: the CRD now has aprox 9500 on it now. I changed oil last week at the dealer. They suggested with the Wrangler 245-70-16 Silent Armor tires I should raise the pressure from 33# to 36#. Which I did, and don't notice any difference in the ride. With the oil change and the raised air pressure we got 23.4 mpg, which is much better than 21mpg. Maybe I will change oil at 6000miles next time. The oil change is $90. regularly, but I has a $10. gift card from the dealer. So $80. is a lot for an oil change I think, I called several other dealers about 35 miles further away and they ranged from $78. to $100. which seemed way to high. Do you change your own?
Go to www.arifleet.com/production.html and that shows where the production line is moving. You might look and see if anything you ordered is on hold and if you can live without it take it as they can make it. Our dealer has had two CRD's on order for (what the sales person told me) 10 weeks and still waiting. But with the 65th ann. editions that might be the hold up. Glad you bought a Jeep Liberty CRD, now you are as intellegent as the rest of us that own one!
Call your dealer and ask, or call 1-800-992-1997 and ask. So far everyone I have talked to has said no there is not a fuel heater, however I am not willing to bet on it. Let me know what you find out. I too have the same fuse...confused.
I am not sure it is good to change oil until at least 3000 miles, which is half of the schedule B in the Owners Manual. If in doubt ask the dealer. Enjoy the ride.
Hi Guys, Glad to see some progress on the mileage issue. Here's hoping for the best mileage...
To answer your question I do change my own oil...
It is outrageous what they charge for that black gold at the dealer.I would like to be a supplier at that price.
I am trying to get my local NAPA store to stock it,so I don't have to go to them every time I want an oil change.
Since I get 20 free oil changes,this leaves me no choice but to go to the dealer at the 10,000 km's/6500 mile mark to do the deed. But That doesn't stop me to change it in the heat of the summer myself,before a trip, or in the winter at my friendly local mechanic/ trust worthy jiffy lube guys.
But I bring the case of the oil and filter with me and even the 8 mm allen key socket wrench just in case they don't have it for the drain plug. 5 W40 mobile 1 Synth,2- cases- (qty-2-1 gallon jugs of oil) $45 walmart special and a Wix Filter from NAPA. $7 ...-be careful to don't lose the washer under the drain plug that goes back there to seat the plug-...
Hmm..$52 bucks thats almost half what they charge at the dealer.A little more affordable wouldn't you say??...
substitute Filters ,are as follows; but I wouldn't use a fram in this case... Make sure you tell the guy it's the 2.8L diesel to make sure it is the right filter,and compare prices with other stores to find the cheapest one. Wix# 15516, purolator #PL25230, NAPA#1315, and ofcourse Mopar if you can get it. But you won't find any difference from the Wix,as these are made by the same OEM company..
I also think that the complimantary V.I.P card they give you from the dealer is a great idea.You can build points towards a new car and goodies for the libby like the towing package,and hooks,but I especially like the Neoprene seat covers . Good luck.. Speak Soon.. Lightnin3..
The last sentence in your post mentions the neoprene seat covers. Where did you get them? Can you order them online? Are they custom fitted to the the Liberty seats (front and back)? My kids are always spilling stuff and I was looking for some liquid proof covers.
changed mine at 1000 miles have 9500 miles now have not used a drop running 245 75 16 tires and a aero turban muffler millage about 19 in town 23 on the highway mine stays in overdrive down to 50 miles per hour no cruise control running amsoil 5-40 oil 5.20 per quart and a hastins oil filter at 6.00 dollars per quart
Just purchased a 2006 Limited version of the CRD. I was going to purchase a Nissan Xterra however I felt the Jeep would be the more economical of the two as far as gas mileage is concerned. So far I'm averaging 19 - 20 mpg (cdn) primarily city driving. I'm interested to see if I get the claimed 26 mpg (city). Per this forum there is a break-in period for the engine and fuel economy appears to get better as mileage increases.
The only negative comment that I have to date is the oil filter seems exposed to rocks etc ... I understand that a skid plate can be installed to protect the oil filter however it makes oil changes more difficult. I honestly can't see doing any off-roading until I resolve this issue. Has anyone added skid plates to their CRD?
On the positive side I'm happy with the performance of the vehicle, I also have a 2002 V-6 gas version of the Liberty and the acceleration performance of the diesel is similar. The diesel may not be as quiet as the V-6, especially at idle, however I definitely wouldn't call it noisy.
Bingo. Both Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 and Delo Synthetic 5W-40 are excellent oils. If you do a comparison of their spec sheets against the specs for Mobil 1 0W-40 you'll find that both are every bit as good, if not better, with the Havoline being a bit better than the Delo.
As to Mobil 1, Roger Pennske is heavily in bed with ExxonMobil as well as being a major stock holder in DDC Cento (nee VM Motori) who makes our CRD engines. Hard to figure out why our owner's manuals specify Mobil?
The dealer gave no reason for the failure. Most likely a defective part. They also replaced one of the clamps at the intercooler end. No chafing. The hose has a protective jacket on it. The dealer told me that oil had been sprayed all over the place, but they cleaned all of that up before I got it back. I wonder if the oil vapor had anything to do with the rupture? I will have to ask.
Based on what the service writer told me, especially when he said there was oil everywhere, I assumed the worst. When they called me on Friday to tell me that the CRD was finished, he then explained clearly what had happened.
As to mileage, I have driven roughly 7100 miles. My guess was that the hose was bad from the factory. The new hose has a reinforcing band at the intercooler end and the new hose clamp appears to be a bit wider than the original.
> I am considering buying an 06 Liberty diesel and have a few questions > of you. The vehicle will be used as a TOAD behind a motor coach. I > have been towing a 91 Wrangler and am more than satisfied regarding > the ease of use as a tow vehicle. I have no intention to use it for > serious off roading: Snow and mud will usually be the worst case. > Power line trails and logging roads will be used occassionally. > > I understand brand loyalty but please try to be intellectually honest > with your answers. If my questions are redundant please refer me to > the appropriate sites. > > Q1. Many all wheel drive vehicles are restricted from being towed 4 > wheels down. This does not appear to be the case in Jeep. What pros > and cons are there regarding the two choices: Select-Trac and > Command-Trac. > It seems that the Command Trac might be a simple system with less > moving parts. > > Q2. Other than the amenities, are there any substantive differences > between the Sport and LE. Stated otherwise, is there something in the > LE that it of such over-riding importance, performance wide, that is > worth the extra expense and weight. > > Q3. Do you all see any need for the skid plates. I sense, given the > way I screw things up, they could be handy after I have gotten in > over my head. > > Q4. I have been unable to find any real information on the diesel > engine. I understand it is of Euro linage but who and where. Rumor > mill says built in Italy. Have there been any real issues with this > engine? > > Q5. I have been lurking and skulking about on this web site trying to > get some insight on issues. There seems to be some goofy items: Water > spots on seats, weird lighting issues, moaning brakes, etc. Other some > ball joint issues I have not seen anything really bad. Everyone seems > happy with engines and drive trains. Is this the case, or are there > drive train issues I have not picked up on. By he way, does a heay > applicaon of Scoch Guard, solve the seat spotting problem. > > Q6. Are there any of you that have owned both a diesel and gas > Liberties? Comments? > > Q7. What are the maintenance intervals and is there anything really > unusual? I am familiar with diesel engines as I have a Power Stroke in > a Ford, a Kabota in a farm tractor and a Cummins in a Bluebird, but > have no experience with small automotive applications. I understand > that 4 wheel drive is a little more intensive service wise, but I am > asking about anything that is really unusual. > > Q8. My take is the Sport might be a better choice for me in that there > are fewer ammenities to cause nit-noid problems. Comments? > > Thank you for your responses in advance and for bearing with a newbe > wanabe. > > Regards, > Jim Scoggins
I answer to the questions i received. First i own a CRD with automatic transmission 4x4 (150HP), and i use Mobil 1 0w-40 , here it costs 12 Euros/lt but since i burn 5-7% less i actually pay less than using the typical MOPAR thing. My cruising speed for achieving the astonishing 7.9lt/100 was 105-110.
Comments
I was told the CRD uses CAN-ISO. It would be nice to edit the engine and transmission CPU parameters. A few years ago some cars already had a button on the dashboard to select between 'normal', 'sport' and 'winter' conditions. This would really be a dreamworld
Not all Libertys have skid plates. Could that be the source of clearance error?
I knew mine was more car-like in clearance before purchase. Did get great traction and towing ability, etc- and my wife likes it. I am leaning towards a 2-1/2" lift to raise the oil filter, cross-member, and muffler; but am waiting to hear how others fare with a lift in towing performance.
User-selected, variable, pre-programmed reprogramming-
That's an awesome idea. Warranty stuff will get in the way, I'd guess, though.
Since the turbo oil feed line enters the top of the housing and that is the one that happened to break. I am now concerned that the bearing in the turbo could have seized. According to the dealer, the line was cracked, but oil had been sprayed against the side of the engine. The loss of power was quite sudden so I think the bearing is fried. :sick:
A friend of mine once measured the time needed to destroy an engine that had lost all of it's oil. This goes more than 30 years back...
The car (a Chrysler-Simca) had a severe accident and was due for the scrap yard. It ran all day without knocking and when came dinner time the thing kept on going. To destroy it someone revved it to it's maximun until finally a connecting rod broke.
This is why I'm not certain your bearing died that day!
Another thing comes to my mind:
If you have less oil pressure, the OBD sees it.
When I stopped at the dealer the other day I asked the salesman if this was the only CRD and he said, they are hard to come by. (Of course, why would I expect any other answer.) :surprise:
You'll know when the bearing is shot ,
when the engine is running by a high pitch whining noise or a deep rumbling noise.
But even if the line was cracked ,there is a very good chance the bearing would have seen oil still ,and is hopefully fine in your case.
If you have a hint of a problem I would take it back and get it replaced.Which I believe is a pressed on bearing.
Chances are you are fine after the oil line is fixed.
Speak Soon...
Lightnin3..
mileage would suffer as well as handeling.
Ask yourself what an I going to use it for?
going to work,Road use ,and towing 95% of the time?
or rock hopping 5% ?...
your money would be better used in a set of good all terrain tires,and class3, 2 in. towing hitch sleeve with 7 pin power for trailer brakes.
and a years supply of powerservice fuel additive for mileage .
But you could bring to a strut and shock mechanic to see if any mods were done or if it is possible to set them to their original height.
Speak Soon...
Lightnin3...
Farout
I’m still a few months away and a lot of negotiating with the wife from being ready to buy.
I just believe , diesel fuel additives do work.
I am just "show and telling" my results for the "benefit " of all.
There is a purpose for these products,and I believe it does work.
To most people who are new to diesel engines have to know that fuel is half the battle,oil changes is the other half...
Thats like saying that there will never be water in your fuel, , when the temperature drops below freezing,and you fill up with cold diesel from a tank thats full of condensation.
Why ..you might be pumping mostly water instead of fuel....
Just talk to a trucker about diesel fuel mileage,and water in fuel,don't take my word for it.
Thats why they invented gas line antifreeze,or methyl hydrate,or in this case diesel fuel additives,or no.1 diesel fuel.
I feel for you if you haven't seen any better results.
Speak Soon...
Lightnin3..
You see guys good fuel mileage is... possible,I am not lying here.
Let me guess S4 you drive a stick right ??
Thats one of those 6 speed jobbies, or are do you have the 5 sp. automatic?
What is your typical cruising speed,and RPM's on the hyway?
How do you achieve this awesome mileage factor,"WE" want to know...
Speak Soon..
Lightnin3...
Now waiting for DCX to build it. Hope they don't take too long, now that I've ordered I want it yesterday!
I appreciate all who post here - it is useful for us considering a particular model, and once I'm experiencing my CRD I intend to post and share my experiences for others.
Try to use cruise control when it feasable on the flats.
The time to have her in cruise at 56-58 mph which is feasable on the flat areas of the hyway.
the tranny would be normally kick out of OD with a slope of any kind or labor the engine in a low gear.
At that point don't race up the hill just keep a steady speed up the hill and let the engine work.
The point is to keep the RPM's down under 2000,if your are looking to travel and trying to conserve fuel.
There is a break in period ,that will suck fuel at first ,mainly because the parts in the internals of the engine are still being worn in.Sometimes referred to as tight.
It will take around 20 000 miles for the diesel engine to fully be broken in.
If you want to maximize your mileage ,before any long trip or every 3000 miles change the oil and filter.
Treat it like a car for oil changes,and use the recommended oil from the manual.
It is acceptable to use mobile 1 5W40 Synthetic if you find it cheaper at the Walmart instead of going to the dealer and paying top dollar for your oil changes thats fine too.
Changing oil will help mileage.
The idea is to get the sludgy ,metal shaving filled oil out of there,
This has a tendency to develop alot of heat and extra friction ,that drops your overall fuel mileage.
Oh did I forget to mention to make sure your tire pressure is at 35 pounds??
Good luck let me know how you made out..
Speak Soon ...
lightnin3..
Why Americans should fall in love with the diesel (Inside Line)
Steve, Host
boy ! I wish DCX could see this article.
Speak Soon..
Lightnin3..
You may have to be patient.
My buddy just got his 06 Libby....
He waited , 8 WEEKS !... to be delivered to the dealer.
Make sure there isn't a hold on the order.
Making a phone call to the DCX scheduler after a month of waiting at the Teledo North plant will help with the delivery status .They may be able to push it through quicker for you.
I prefer to buy my vehicles, off the lot.
Because I know ,I can get right away,
plus the dealers are more willing to give a better price , when it's on the lot.
Speak Soon ...
Lightnin3..
Did DC give you a time frame of when you might take delivery?
I've been told 6-8 weeks, but it was made clear that such was only an "estimate."
I'm currently leasing a vehicle and that expires at the end of Feb, so I have some cushion. If it goes over, might have to "call Enterprise" for a couple of weeks and/or beg-plead the dealer to give me a loaner.
One "crossing my fingers thought" is that the dealer already has 7 CRD's on order, for a while now, and no VIN's yet. As I'm supposing that Toledo only builds the CRD's in batches (which would make sense for assembly line efficiency) I am hoping that a "new batch" of CRD production may be imminent and that, because "sold" orders get priority, I may get lucky and take delivery before 2/28.
Hope springs eternal!
Yes, I believe there is a fuel heater in the CRD Liberty. There is actually a fuse for it in the fuse box. I believe the heater is located in the fuel filter canister. Was just curious of the specs on it.
P.S. By the way. I am new on here and would like to say that I really enjoy my 2005 CRD Liberty. 7K miles with no problems. I use premium BP 47 Cetane Diesel. Modifications include: Replacing the stock tires with Michelins and buying the sport utility bars from Jeep in order to haul bikes and kayaks. Cheers! crddude.
Farout
Farout
Farout
Farout
Farout
Farout
Here's hoping for the best mileage...
To answer your question I do change my own oil...
It is outrageous what they charge for that black gold at the dealer.I would like to be a supplier at that price.
I am trying to get my local NAPA store to stock it,so I don't have to go to them every time I want an oil change.
Since I get 20 free oil changes,this leaves me no choice but to go to the dealer at the 10,000 km's/6500 mile mark to do the deed.
But That doesn't stop me to change it in the heat of the summer myself,before a trip, or in the winter at my friendly local mechanic/ trust worthy jiffy lube guys.
But I bring the case of the oil and filter with me and even the 8 mm allen key socket wrench just in case they don't have it for the drain plug.
5 W40 mobile 1 Synth,2- cases- (qty-2-1 gallon jugs of oil) $45 walmart special and a Wix Filter from NAPA. $7
...-be careful to don't lose the washer under the drain plug that goes back there to seat the plug-...
Hmm..$52 bucks thats almost half what they charge at the dealer.A little more affordable wouldn't you say??...
substitute Filters ,are as follows;
but I wouldn't use a fram in this case...
Make sure you tell the guy it's the 2.8L diesel to make sure it is the right filter,and compare prices with other stores to find the cheapest one.
Wix# 15516,
purolator #PL25230,
NAPA#1315,
and ofcourse Mopar if you can get it.
But you won't find any difference from the Wix,as these are made by the same OEM company..
I also think that the complimantary V.I.P card they give you from the dealer is a great idea.You can build points towards a new car and goodies for the libby like the towing package,and hooks,but I especially like the Neoprene seat covers .
Good luck..
Speak Soon..
Lightnin3..
You paid 90 US of A dollars for an oil change? Holy Moses. Stop by the next time you're in southern Indiana and I'll do it for $89.95!
- Indian
The only negative comment that I have to date is the oil filter seems exposed to rocks etc ... I understand that a skid plate can be installed to protect the oil filter however it makes oil changes more difficult. I honestly can't see doing any off-roading until I resolve this issue. Has anyone added skid plates to their CRD?
On the positive side I'm happy with the performance of the vehicle, I also have a 2002 V-6 gas version of the Liberty and the acceleration performance of the diesel is similar. The diesel may not be as quiet as the V-6, especially at idle, however I definitely wouldn't call it noisy.
Literally... I drove on it. It's a low-grade oil suitable only for oiling dusty roads and concrete forms.
I hear that Chevron Corp. makes awesome synthetic motor oils, though.
Bingo. Both Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 and Delo Synthetic 5W-40 are excellent oils. If you do a comparison of their spec sheets against the specs for Mobil 1 0W-40 you'll find that both are every bit as good, if not better, with the Havoline being a bit better than the Delo.
As to Mobil 1, Roger Pennske is heavily in bed with ExxonMobil as well as being a major stock holder in DDC Cento (nee VM Motori) who makes our CRD engines. Hard to figure out why our owner's manuals specify Mobil?
- Indian
As to mileage, I have driven roughly 7100 miles. My guess was that the hose was bad from the factory. The new hose has a reinforcing band at the intercooler end and the new hose clamp appears to be a bit wider than the original.
> of you. The vehicle will be used as a TOAD behind a motor coach. I
> have been towing a 91 Wrangler and am more than satisfied regarding
> the ease of use as a tow vehicle. I have no intention to use it for
> serious off roading: Snow and mud will usually be the worst case.
> Power line trails and logging roads will be used occassionally.
>
> I understand brand loyalty but please try to be intellectually honest
> with your answers. If my questions are redundant please refer me to
> the appropriate sites.
>
> Q1. Many all wheel drive vehicles are restricted from being towed 4
> wheels down. This does not appear to be the case in Jeep. What pros
> and cons are there regarding the two choices: Select-Trac and
> Command-Trac.
> It seems that the Command Trac might be a simple system with less
> moving parts.
>
> Q2. Other than the amenities, are there any substantive differences
> between the Sport and LE. Stated otherwise, is there something in the
> LE that it of such over-riding importance, performance wide, that is
> worth the extra expense and weight.
>
> Q3. Do you all see any need for the skid plates. I sense, given the
> way I screw things up, they could be handy after I have gotten in
> over my head.
>
> Q4. I have been unable to find any real information on the diesel
> engine. I understand it is of Euro linage but who and where. Rumor
> mill says built in Italy. Have there been any real issues with this
> engine?
>
> Q5. I have been lurking and skulking about on this web site trying to
> get some insight on issues. There seems to be some goofy items: Water
> spots on seats, weird lighting issues, moaning brakes, etc. Other some
> ball joint issues I have not seen anything really bad. Everyone seems
> happy with engines and drive trains. Is this the case, or are there
> drive train issues I have not picked up on. By he way, does a heay
> applicaon of Scoch Guard, solve the seat spotting problem.
>
> Q6. Are there any of you that have owned both a diesel and gas
> Liberties? Comments?
>
> Q7. What are the maintenance intervals and is there anything really
> unusual? I am familiar with diesel engines as I have a Power Stroke in
> a Ford, a Kabota in a farm tractor and a Cummins in a Bluebird, but
> have no experience with small automotive applications. I understand
> that 4 wheel drive is a little more intensive service wise, but I am
> asking about anything that is really unusual.
>
> Q8. My take is the Sport might be a better choice for me in that there
> are fewer ammenities to cause nit-noid problems. Comments?
>
> Thank you for your responses in advance and for bearing with a newbe
> wanabe.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Scoggins