Jeep Liberty Diesel

17071737576224

Comments

  • boilermaker2boilermaker2 Member Posts: 131
    Date Miles Gal’s $/gal Type* Place MPG
    10/4 295.9 13.084 2.809 r Shell 22.62
    10/7 274.4 13.498 3.259 b Citgo 20.33
    10/13 434.4 18.939 3.199 b 24** 22.94
    10/17 367.5 16.230 2.899 r Kr*** 22.64
    10/20 453.0 18.641 3.259 b 24 23.06
    11/3 369.3 15.508 2.859 b 24 23.81
    11/6 254.9 11.178 2.799 b 24 22.80
    11/12 402.9 18.312 2.739 b 24 22.00
    11/18 353.4 18.282 2.599 b 24 19.33
    11/22 267.0 12.689 2.599 r Kr 21.04
    11/26 289.3 14.029 2.299 r Kr 20.62
    12/3 367.8 19.002 b 24 19.36
    12/7 212.6 10.300 2.199 r Kr 20.64
    12/12 175.3 11.519 2.299 r WM^ 15.22
    12/17 296.5 13.965 2.549 b 24 21.23
    12/27 482.7 23.868 2.529 b 24 20.22
    1/2 245.4 12.347 2.359 r FlyJ^^ 19.88
    1/6 396.6 17.41 2.569 b 24 22.78
    1/13 376.9 18.105 2.379 r FlyJ 20.82
    1/21 402.3 19.491 2.359 r FlyJ 20.64
    1/25 213.2 9.953 2.559 b 24 21.42

    Key
    * b=biodiesel, r=regular
    ** 24=Energy 24
    ***Kr=Kroger
    ^WM=WalMart(whatever the name of their affiliated fuel station is)
    ^^FlyJ=Flyin’ J truckstop (yes I did)
    Other Noteworthy notes
    10/23 incomplete so not posted
    12/12 Snow/all4x4
    12/27 tightened turbo hoses
  • boilermaker2boilermaker2 Member Posts: 131
    Date Miles Gal’s $/gal Type* Place MPG
    10/4 295.9 13.084 2.809 r Shell 22.62
    10/7 274.4 13.498 3.259 b Citgo 20.33
    10/13 434.4 18.939 3.199 b 24** 22.94
    10/17 367.5 16.230 2.899 r Kr*** 22.64
    10/20 453.0 18.641 3.259 b 24 23.06
    11/3 369.3 15.508 2.859 b 24 23.81
    11/6 254.9 11.178 2.799 b 24 22.80
    11/12 402.9 18.312 2.739 b 24 22.00
    11/18 353.4 18.282 2.599 b 24 19.33
    11/22 267.0 12.689 2.599 r Kr 21.04
    11/26 289.3 14.029 2.299 r Kr 20.62
    12/3 367.8 19.002 b 24 19.36
    12/7 212.6 10.300 2.199 r Kr 20.64
    12/12 175.3 11.519 2.299 r WM^ 15.22
    12/17 296.5 13.965 2.549 b 24 21.23
    12/27 482.7 23.868 2.529 b 24 20.22
    1/2 245.4 12.347 2.359 r FlyJ^^ 19.88
    1/6 396.6 17.41 2.569 b 24 22.78
    1/13 376.9 18.105 2.379 r FlyJ 20.82
    1/21 402.3 19.491 2.359 r FlyJ 20.64
    1/25 213.2 9.953 2.559 b 24 21.42
  • boilermaker2boilermaker2 Member Posts: 131
    I have tried twice now to post data but the post engine keeps removing the spaces that I plugged in (first it was tabbed in, the second time is was hard-spaced).

    So, the previous two posts of my mileage log is for the past 3=/- months. For reference, it gives you an idea of what kind of mileage one CRD driver is getting. The place that the fuel was filled and other data was written in at the time of purchase. With this in mind, the susbsequent MPG will reflect the the impact of the fuel pumped in from the source on the previous line. If someone wants to run some statistics on this, fine with me. Visually, I could see little difference.

    Lastly, this may be easier to view if you copy and paste it into Word or Excel and add some spaces/tabs.

    boilermaker
  • libituplibitup Member Posts: 4
    We have had a 2005 Jeep Liberty Diesel and already put in a new auto tranny with 21,000 on it. Anyone else had a tranny go out on their Liberty Diesel??

    Libitup
  • libituplibitup Member Posts: 4
    Has something changed? The 2005 manual says 5w-30. What are you using in your's

    Libitup
  • unclebubbaunclebubba Member Posts: 80
    Hi Jim,

    As long as the transfer case is in neutral and all four wheels are free wheeling, you do not rack up miles on odometer. :D
  • unclebubbaunclebubba Member Posts: 80
    Hi Winter,

    Just an update on the "throttle body" issue. Indeed it is not a throttle body as previously noted. But the tech at the dealer brought me back to let me see it. It looks like on old fashioned automatic choke! It has the butterfly valve and is electronically controlled (what isn't these days!) and the old one was stuck open. The tech, Alvin, told me that the new one was of a different design, so that tells me that it has been a problem too!!

    I have driven the CRD now with the latest "new and improved" parts for close to 70 miles without a check engine light or any noticeable problem. It's kind of like waiting for the other shoe to drop! I got used to the check engine light coming on and off at regular intervals! :surprise:
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    How weird. Looks like a choke? I think this device is used to help the engine to shutdown more smoothly.

    As to the check engine light coming on frequently, all I can say is that stinks. I have had it happen only one time at 586 miles. A software flash took care of that. I run the on-off X 4 with the ignition key to check for codes from time to time and so far none.

    I wonder if you got an early build? Except for the software flash and the intercooler hose rupture, my CRD has been perfect.

    Sounds like you have a good dealer like I have. Lucky for us!

    I am doing a little traveling this weekend and will be blowing the EGR's nose. Have not done it in a while.

    Hope this is the last of it for you.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Sorry but mine has a fuel heater in the bowl. It's a 3/4 turn heating element that fits into the black colored compartment of the filter cannister. There are two connectors under my bowl: one for the water sensing and the other for the heating element. You may not have this specific model on yours, but it does exist. Parker Racor sells these filters to Chrysler marine and I happen to have one on my truck, so you can also have this 'more professional' filtration unit. My previously posted pictures (#3494) show the two connectors ;)
    The heater connector can be seen on the 3rd picture. It's the one in the background with the red and black wires.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    the post engine keeps removing the spaces

    Unfortunately, we don't have a formatting feature. Some people try to put dots/periods between characters to producing spacing which is slight improvement. An alternative would be to turn your table into a .jpg or .gif image and post it as a picture.

    tidester, host
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Here's an example:
  • supertechsupertech Member Posts: 32
    The throttle plate is there to create engine vacuum. Its just on emission control engines to help make the EGR work better.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Learned something new today.

    Thanks
  • craigs1969craigs1969 Member Posts: 20
    Can anyone tell me 1. why you should change oil prior to 6250 miles (schedule B) and 2. why the owners manual doesn't state to do so? I added almost 1 quart at about 2000 miles.

    Thanks,
    Craig
  • smokinclattersmokinclatter Member Posts: 40
    After shutting down the CRD, outside the vehicle I hear a high frequency sound. Anyone familiar with that? Is it the turbo?
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    I don't understand, Supertech. With 6 to 23 lbs of boost going past the valve while charging the intake during normal to extreme driving, how can there possibly be any engine vacuum? The crank case ventilation system is a CCV system. Pulsations from the crankcase go past a flapper valve creating a one way flow that is fed into the intake hose after the air filter just before the turbo. An engine driven pump creates vacuum for the power brakes. The manifold absolute pressure with the engine running on the CRD reads only marginally different from atmospheric pressure with the engine off.

    Perhaps the marginal difference is enough to aid the EGR valve at an idle. Is that what you mean?
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    1. I changed oil at 3K miles because I didn't know any better. I didn't know that diesel oil turns black and it's okay.

    2. Your oil consumption is normal. My engine used a quart in the first 2k miles. At 16.7k miles it has used 1/8 inch on the dipstick over the last 4.2k miles. Consumption has not stopped but it has definitely slowed way down.

    3. If you change your own oil wear a biohazard suit (just kidding). Oil comes out like water, splashes every where and is very difficult to clean from hands and tools.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    When you shut the engine down there is a small electric motor that closes a valve in the intake side of the engine just before the intake manifold. It runs for 4 or 5 seconds and stops with a soft clunk. Maybe that's it.

    I sometimes hear the turbo wind down when I shut the engine off but that does not last long enough for me to get outside.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    At the place it plugs into the block there was a little bit of oil seepage at the connection point. On the bottom of the cold side of the turbo near the return line outlet, was a drop of oil too.

    I currently have exactly the condition you describe.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Well, yesterday I took a trip with the wife for about one hundred miles of highway driving. Took a quick glance underneath earlier today and everything is clean and dry, although I was not. It had rained. It appears as if the oil I wiped off was left over from the intercooler hose rupture. I did not find any film, nothing. I will continue to watch for another couple of weeks to see if I find anything.

    Two other items. Pure highway fuel economy was 31.5 mpg at 62 mph using cruise control. Anyone interested in using Amsoil's 5W-40, I would wait. It appears as if the formulation has been changed. On their website, it is now rated to CF only and not CI-4 when I put it in some months ago. Also,the TBN is now around 8, down from 10+. I may try their 15W-40 in the spring, but will check with the dealer before I use it. I may also contact VM Motori too.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Your fuel milage almost matches mine to the "T". Nice to see someone be exactly truthful backed by actual miles and gallons.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Yes there was a Service note to dealers to use 0-40. My 05 book second edition says 0-40 or 5-40 id you can't find the 0-40. The 0=4 is what helps get the better milage is what DC told me. I recently had my first oil change at 9000miles and my mi9lage did go to 23.4 from 21mpg. I think I will stay with Mobil 1 0-40.

    Farout
  • raymcraymc Member Posts: 8
    Hi I made the plunge and bought the CRD. Happy with it so far, mpg could be better mpg 18 local 24 highway 2200 miles on it so far.I have not seen any other CRDs on the roads here in Northern New Jersey they went of the lots but cannot be seen on the roads. Has anyone installed a remote start and if so is there any issues, the 2 seconds for the glow plugs comes to mind as being a potential problem.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I used 1 qt, by 3800 miles, I went until 94101 to change the oil for the first time. the Mobil 1 oil si designed to hold the dirt and junk rather than deposit it in the block and head. I don' fit into either the A or B schedule so I split the difference and said 9000 aprox. That seemed to work. And at $85 to $90. for an oil change I can't see flushing oil down the tubes very often.

    Farout
  • ecramanecraman Member Posts: 25
    I will be picking it up tomorrow with 19,000 miles give or take and transmission evidentally cooked itself.
  • carsbikescarsbikes Member Posts: 6
    Mileage will improve over time. Hopefully the mileage improves before the truck self destructs. Not trying to get flamed but after reading a majority of the last 500 posts, I would not get this truck. It seems more problems than its worth.
  • scogginsjescogginsje Member Posts: 13
    I tried to search but didnt seem to work. Can someone tell me the issues regarding the EGR valve or refer me to a source/site?

    Thanks
    Jim
  • supertechsupertech Member Posts: 32
    Hi,Siberia

    I'm not sure of the operation of the valve. I'm guessing agreeing with your thoughts that it helps at idle and maybe during decell. I know on gas engines the EGR valve is used to cool the combustion temps, When they are high the engine creates much more NOx. This would not be the case of an engine idling or slowing down, maybe diesels create NOx differntly I don't know :confuse: I found info on the Intake throttle valve on VM web site it read (Intake throttle valve-Increased recirculation of gasous emissions,Reduced engine shake during shut down). Maybe someone reading this can help? I'm looking forward to solving some of the CRD mysterys
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Post 3724 has 2 parts. The first part was about the new designed intercooler hose we have. I was asking if it was doing a better job. When the mechanic put his hand under the hose at the intercooler it got soaked with oil. I do not have oil stains on the garage floor.

    The second part refers to oil weeping at the block where the turbo bearing oil return line enters the block above the oil filter. I do not have an oil spot on the floor from this either - yet?

    It's sad that we aren't the only ones with bad mileage. Some get mileage like us and we're happy that some get mileage like winter2. retmil46 gets 30mpg in Carolina but got 22mpg with texas diesel on his trip to Austin. That might prove it's a fuel issue maybe not good crd's/bad crd's. The name on the store means nothing usually with diesel - the closest tank farm gets the business according to the answer from a refinery engineer whereas gas can have different additive packages at the farm for different brands.
  • anomiousanomious Member Posts: 170
    Hi! It seems to me that most of the last 500 posts are from the same people over and over. Maybe prople with problems post in forums. Having driven diesel cars since 1968, I do have some experience. My Liberty is doing ok so far. I don't worry about some of the things that bother you guys. I have only replaced fuel filters twice in all of those years, never had any water problems. My EGR valves never worked, I think there was a BB in the vacuum hose that controled it (laugh). I really do miss my 20 year old 300SDL Mercedes. The Liberty will never match it, it was $45,000 in "86" so maybe I shouldn't expect it to. Let's hope that the majority of Libby owners have a trouble free experience! Finally! DON'T ever trust the mechanic at the dealership!
    Peace! LK
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Search This Discussion tool is working - it's on the bottom right under the last message. The Advanced Search on the left sidebar was flaky for a while due to some database issues the last few days but it seems to be working ok too.

    Steve, Host
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    The advanced search is not functional. Search "diesel" and nothing is found. Search "Tundra" and once again no matches are found. Search has not been working correctly for months.
    No more upgrades please!
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Nice to see someone be exactly truthful backed by actual miles and gallons.

    Who are you implying is not truthful?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It's working fine for "EGR." ;)

    Steve, Host
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Steve-
    Sent you an email.
  • kyjeeperkyjeeper Member Posts: 31
    Just thought I tell everyone good-bye I had problems with my Jeep since I got it and just couldn't get it fixed so I went and traded it for a Chevy Silverado 4X4 Quadsteer. All I can say is that my 29,000 Jeep is worth 15000 to 17000 trade in and one dealer said I guess you know that CH stopped making them this was a toyota dealer. The Jeep that I traded only had 6,000 miles that cost me about 10000 dollars I will never buy Ch product again. :lemon:
  • bhcs111bhcs111 Member Posts: 26
    I was one of those someones. Well lets see. BELIEVE A DEALER OR BELIEVE A PARTS BOOK AND SERVICE MANUAL? Here is the part number for a FUEL HEATER #5066 55AA. I bought my CRD from a smaller dealer that knows what a diesel engine is not a big city dealer that deals in just selling vehicles. Hope this helps
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Got it ~ for anyone trying to search, until the bugs get swatted, try using the Advanced Search and then just search the Message Text. That seems to be working for some of us consistently.

    Since this is a car forum, I guess I should have said I can't reproduce the error and have you come back in 15,000 posts. :shades:

    Steve, Host
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Good one Steve!

    I am still confused about some things and this is not a reply to anyone directly.

    On the CRD the top 2 hoses that look like radiator hoses are connected to the intercooler that is in front of the radiator and the same square area as the radiator. The radiator is right behind the intercooler and about twice as thick as the intercooler. Also the intercooler is an air-to-air intercooler that cools the air that exits the turbo before it enters the intake. The intercooler does not cool the turbo only intake air.

    Does it stand to reason that due to efficiency loss whatever the exhaust pressure the turbo outlet pressure would be something less than the exhaust pressure under most conditions? So, the EGR has some pressure differential to allow gases to flow into the intake.

    Modern turbochargers are water cooled or they are not cooled, period!? Diesels that have a water cooled turbo can generally be shut down with out waiting since the water in the water jacket around the turbo bearing boils absorbing heat from the bearing hot side.

    All modern turbochargers have oil fed through the bearing(s). The oil might have some cooling effect but it does not make the turbo oil-cooled, thus the engine needs to be idled when hot to allow the turbo to cool. Also when under load (which is most of the time) the turbo bearing temperature is at an equilibrium temperature between the hot power side of the turbo and the much cooler compressor side of the turbo. I suspect the turbo bearing is mounted more toward the cool side.

    This entire post can be viewed as a statement/question.
  • ungnungn Member Posts: 19
    I would agree but with this one:

    12/27 482.7 23.868 2.529 b 24 20.22

    you can tell he doesn't have an EVIC. Mine would have said I had "15 mpg to empty" 100 miles before I got to 482 miles, even at my 24 mpg.

    How big is a Liberty's tank?
  • scogginsjescogginsje Member Posts: 13
    Yep.
    Worked fine for me using the correct search engine.
    Bottom of page vice the ones on the side of the web pages!

    duh

    Jim
  • scogginsjescogginsje Member Posts: 13
    Book says 20 gal fuel tank
  • indianrefiningindianrefining Member Posts: 102
    Boiler -

    Very, very similar to mine. If I get up to 60mph, set the cruise, re-set the computer, and can stay at that speed on a level road for 10 or 12 miles, I might see 26 to 26.5. Real world, though, is a different story. I think that some of these claims of consistently getting 28 to 30 mpg must be from people driving 50mph downhill with a tail-wind.

    - Indian
  • indianrefiningindianrefining Member Posts: 102
    Look again. The manual specifies 0W-40, 5W-40 acceptable.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Forget about a remote starter. Somewhere in the owners manual it says not to install one. I cannot remember where I saw it but do remember reading about it.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    First year teething pains is what I am seeing. Even Toyota is still having issues with their Hybrids and they are into generation number two.

    The EGR issue is a fuel problem, namely poor quality and high sulfur. They use the same engine over in Europe and the EGR is a non-issue as I understand. The only difference is the fuel.

    ULSD will be here soon and many of the EGR problems should go away.

    EU emission standards are different from what they are here so some adaptations have had to been made. Some have been troublesome but in general, the CRD works quite well.

    As vehicles become more dependent on computers and software to operate, we can expect to see an increasing number of niggling problems related to them.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    I am glad to see you are getting good fuel mileage .
    Are you satisfied with your investment??

    I believe, I have been lucky with my Libby and the mileage she gives me .Most of my travelling is on a 2 lane hiway
    50-60mph range,and flat roads.
    I have been getting about the same 26mpg,at 60mph,and 28mpg at 53-55mph 1650-1800 rpm's,respectively.

    Yesterday I took her in to get serviced at 40 000km's
    I had the oil changed,and differentials,Xfer case fluids cleaned out and changed.
    I do believe that an oil change using the recommended oil
    and standard differential fluid changed from the "standard" to a "synthetic" 75/140,makes a difference.
    The engine hardly works now,so I believe it is worth the investment.I am anticipating that in Canada diesel fuel is going to rise to $5 /gal this summer.

    I am now getting 30mpg consistantly at 53-55mph ,and 28 mpg at 60 mph.
    I will let you know what results I get with a fill up of Shell Ultra premium diesel,soon...

    whats your tire pressure at?? I have been running them at 35psi.
    Speak Soon...
    Lightnin3...
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Again with the BB. It seems that you also know or have read between caribou1's lines here and other posters here and elsewhere. Trust is earned and cynicism has not completely overtaken me. Every once in awhile, another person restores my faith in the human race.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Thanks for the oil links and "reformulation"? of Amsoil.
    Did you use 5w40 mobil1 like I just bought? And if so did the change from mobil 5w40 to amsoil 5w40 produce any difference? Are you really considering 15w40 in stead of a provent? I didn't want to provent and I still don't but your concern about intercooler oil like the lost posters is now getting my attention.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I never tried the Mobil 1 5W-40. I have never really liked using their (Mobil) products (political reasons). When I went to the Amsoil 5W-40 the thing I noticed was that the engine ran a bit smoother and the turbo spins up a bit faster, which it continues to do even after 3K+ miles on the oil.

    I am going to contact my Amsoil dealer to make sure that what I saw on the Amsoil website is correct. I will let you know what he says.

    I am considering 15W-40 oil because the viscosity range is narrower and with a 0W or 5W oil. The issue of using a "Provent" type of device never crossed my mind and I do not intend to install one unless it is needed. Also, the 15W-40 oil is designed for diesel. I know that the 5W-40 from Mobil is also.
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