Jeep Liberty Diesel

farout

What you have stated is exactly what the Tec form Teledo told me. Well we have two stories that match! Can you believe there are some who do tell the truth. Thanks for your post.

Farout.

farout

At 10,000 miles I have had no major problems. Our CRD was made June 14, 2005. There were service bulletins on two re-flashes, and one to drain the trans filter, and replace the fluid. Because I had a situation with the cruise control kicking out, the dealer was told by Star to re flash all the computers. My mileage was in the 20 to 22 range most of the time, until the last re-flash which increased fuel mileage to 23.4 mpg. So over all these issues are minor, and we are pleased with our CRD. I experience some jerkiness about every 1,500 miles (est). I do as someone said to blow out the EGR, I drop it into 2 nd gear and take it to 4,500 rpm for about 1 minute or so, and it clears up right away. (thank's to who ever said to do this!) Twice I have used PS anti-gel cetane booster and not noticed any difference at all when using this product. The CRD used 1 qt of oil by 3,800 miles. at 9,100 miles the oil was not down a bit, that's when the oil got changed.
I hope there are many more who can say their CRD's do as well.

Farout

craig18

I was going thru the FSM the other night when I came across the description and drawing of the fuel heater. I went and looked under the hood and it looked the same as the drawing. It's built into the fuel filter assembly - pg 14-67. Based on that I have a fuel heater.

whitgallman

Makes me feel more comfortable about using the Delvac 1 5W-40. The friction energy going into a 5W vs a 0W oil is real small. I'd rather have a bigger minimum oil film thickness in the journal bearings. Besides I can share the 5W-40 with my Cummins Powered Ram Dodge.
Did change my oil today at 2380 mi. 8 mm allen wrench on the drain plug surprised me. Used Mobil 1 0W-40 from WalMart at $4.86 a quart and a NAPA Gold #1516. And yes, I changed the air filter too. The K&N is on the shelf. Got a WIX. The original factory filter had info on it I'd like to check with that filter testing guy. It said 98% efficient, 130 grams max dirt and 0.035 bar pressure drop. WIX had a dozen or so more pleats and each pleat was a bit longer. Tried for an A/C but the A/C warehouse didn't list the number y'all had for it. Got A/C's for everything else I own.
It was fun. The bottom of my Jeep is cleaner than the top.

kyjeeper

Mine was built in March, The Egr will do this, but mine done it after 3. The tork convertor doesn't lock in right I traded mine off. The only thing that I did find out myself is went Jeep is jerking or stalling if you will turn cruise control on it will clear up instancely. The dealer said Ch said this was normal and said this was driver error. Which is a lot of bull. That's went I solved my problem with trading for a Chevy, I had so much trouble with the Jeep that its made me gunshy but my Chevy and Toyota are doing great, Thank the Lord, hope this helps, sorry about your luck,believe me I know what you are going threw. good luck, Mine also had 6000 miles,popping when backing up and oil leak under Turbo dealer order return line to fix leak has been over a month never called back I didn't get to tell him I traded it off.This is the worst I have ever been treated at any dealership.Personally I wouldn't drive another Ch product if they gave me one.

farout

Call your dealer or DC and ask them if you have a fuel heater. I would like to know for sure. Thanks.

Farout

farout

I am sure you had some real problems with your Jeep. However, the cost you paid in trading off your CRD on a Chevy was not a pretty sight either. There are ways to get problems solved with DC. You were free to go to another dealer were you told this? There is the DC customer concern line at 1-800-992-1997, did you call them. They would have given you a reference #. With that reference # you would have been told to take your CRD to the dealer and call the 1800 # and then star would have gone over the issues with the dealer. If this would not take care of the problems, then you had more options. You could have gone to the Gen. Manager of the dealer and requested a Zone Rep to hear your problems. If these issues could not be resolved you are able to start the Lemon Law, with the dealer, and the DC Zone rep helping to either buy back or trade you out of your CRD. This may seem like a lot but this all can take only two weeks. It was not required to go back to the selling dealer, any DC dealer could done this. Because you decided to trade off instead this is a little to late, but perhaps others who might have some serious problems would be helped by this, is why I wrote you.
I know this is the right way to do this because DC replaced my Caravan with 21,000 miles at a cost of $12.00 for me. Never once did I expect such respect, kindness or think they (DC) cared about what customers did with their problems. This made a believer out of me!
I wish you well, but remember not all of us agree on which truck is better than another, perhaps you will find the Chevy forum more informative at this point and time for yourself and us who like our CRD's. Thank you and good luck.

Farout

gagrice

I know this is the right way to do this because DC replaced my Caravan

You are right. I would never take a loss on a new vehicle like that. I would have dogged everyone involved until they screamed uncle. Losing that kind of money goes against all my moral principles. I have followed this thread from the beginning and realize you guys have had some issues. I appreciate those that are taking on a new vehicle. I am hoping they bring out the Wrangler with a CRD it should have most of the bugs worked out as a result of your perseverance. Also by then the diesel across the US should be much better for the CRD to live with. Good luck to all of you Jeepers. I miss my old CJ3.

tired_old_dave

Thank you for posting after trading out. I asked w3683?, when that poster bailed out months ago for a cummins, and never got a response. My selling dealership was chrysler jeep - maybe I wish it had been dodge jeep. How's the chevy? I love our 04 malibu and like the idea of an isuzu? diesel in a chevy with an allison tranny? Any thoughts, kyjeeper? I can't take toyota seats anymore - used to be young and had a back. This jeep has got me worried about my long held wish for a cummins. And ending like others - the best of wishes and many happy safe miles ahead.

kyjeeper

I guess I could have Call Ch again and Called another Lawyer and went to 3 more dealers and spent another 10 months argueing about how normal this Jeep is and everyone would tell me how nice the Jeep looked and I have to be honest tell them this was the worst truck I ever owened I just got sick of it and the way it was going I didn't want to shoot noboby and I didn't want to go to Jail so I bought a Chevy Silverado 4x4. This truck has Quadsteer, 4.10 geers, Bose stereo xm and Allstar, 17 in tires 5.3 vortex composit bed,moon roof heated folding mirrors, it rides perfect and makes the girls around here smile gets about 15 to 16 in town 19 on road this truck has alot more too much to list. Cummins are good, one guy told me Ford techs are better. I don't drive right now but I have drove tractor and trailor still have cdl class A, Haz. & tanker license and I know want a diesel can do. During my training we run a Peterbuilt with a Cat day and Night truck was 2 years old with 350,000 miles changed oil 35,ooo miles it use a gallon of oil,miss being on road
See YA

tired_old_dave

The Grubbs service advisor blew me off about my broken airbox but the parts manager was sympathetic to my complaint awhile back. I believe if something happens to one then it must be happening to someone else.
The passenger side tab slot that holds the air box cover on was boken - three of four tabs hold the cover on. The cover continues to want to lean rearward against the intercooler hose and getting close to the vacuum filter.
Lost poster alljeep just reported the same thing.
I suspect too much weight/stress on the cover with nothing substantial to secure the bottom of the airbox.
Donaldson, afe, amsoil, somebody give us a cold air so we can replace this junky setup.

farout

Dave: I am not positive, but this might well be considered part of the pollution control system, and they have to fix it. What do you think. It is rather hard to remove the filter as mine seems like it's in a tight squeeze Getting it out takes more pulling on the filter than any other air filter I have changed.

Farout

whitgallman

"If you're really concerned, you should be doing oil analysis."
At work, we're concerned about our diesel's and have monthly samples sent to Southwest Research for analysis. Our engines are running Mobil 1 15W-50 and it's almost 10 years since we last changed it. BUT we're talking a 800 gallon oil change and a 5,000 hp diesel.
A lot of regular oils are now "Group II" or "Group III" base stocks. Very highly refined mineral oil with the oxidation stability of the synthetics. Synthetics earn their pay in the "extreme pressure" category (keeping metal away from metal under pressure like at the gear teeth and piston ring to cylinder bore and piston wrist pin areas.
Regular Penzoil, Chevron, Citgo engine oils are Group II/III. (Castrol went to court to get to call these Group II & IIIs "Synthetic".)
ALSO you can run oil longer now because fuel is much cleaner than in the '70s AND combustion is controlled much better. (Some changes to cars to get cleaner air have helped the engine.)
Oil change intervals should be based on the rate of build-up of "pentane insolubles", time to breakdown of oil viscosity and additive life. Oil sump capacity is supposed to be sized on this (then on the next even size of oil container?)

whitgallman

GM has taken on the challenge to stretch oil change intervals (in the name of saving petroleum, like another fuel economy) and are reaching for 30k miles. (per an article in "Lubes & Greases". Their "oil life monitor" gives you a bank account of spark plug firings (the engine computer keeps the score). Plugs fire less per mile on the highway than in town. So oil change interval decreases with more town driving. GM engines requiring Mobil 1 oil ('vetts and Northstars) get a 15k mi bank account and peasant Chevy's get 7k mi.

skiduck

Hello CRD group. Im a first timer and I have just bought a 05 CRD and am happy so far. My jeepster limited was built in 6/05 and was the last one on the lot so they gave me a good deal on it. I have some concerns about the problems with others EGR valve, Trannys etc. I have noticed that the libby's brakes feel soft to me. I put in some PS Diesel Kleen because she was sitting out on the lot for so long. Has anyone considered an Amsoil or similiar dual by-pass oil filter arrangement with the "oil pre-charger system" that puts oil pressure into the block before starting? I also wondered where do you put the 120volt plug so that you don't have to raise the hood everytime you want to plug it in. Also if anybody from DC is reading this then why is there not a large hi-volume opening under the gas cap for truck stop diesel pumps when there is no other stations open? I am still on my 1st tank of factory diesel and get about 23mpg so far. Thanks for letting me into your chat group and some of your ideas have been helpful to me already. -*||||||||*-

allan_j

I'm confused.(nothing new). The owners manual suggests you use Mobil 1 0W40 Synthetic. Can you use a good quality dino oil like Rotella or Delvac or Castrol ? Will it void warranty ? I know the change interval is extended with synthetic but I'm used to 3000 mile oil changes. I already got a case (6 quarts) of Mobil 1 , but for the future... :confuse:

allan_j

I fed mine out through the grill. I dont like that , as it will get the "brunt" of the road spray , but choices are limited .

stever

I'd follow the owner's manual.

If you have to run synthetic in a car, that'd be like having to run premium fuel in it to me and would be an objection to overcome before I'd buy the car. A 15,000 mile change interval might be enough to convince me to use the expensive oil. 30k would be better. :shades:

Steve, Host

synlubes

they would probably never as what kind oil you used synthetic will lube alot better in cold weather and warm up quicker i have ran synthetic oil for over twenty five years on ten thousand mile oil changes and never had a problem i run amsoil but there are a lot of good ones out there amsoil was first in the usa then mobil four years later castro been in europe about as long

alljeep

Yes, my passenger side airbox slot is broken and has been since day number one. It had better be covered under warranty. I just deleted my other lost post since no one responded. I figured it was just me and only me to see this cheap air box will be a long term problem.

michel7

I'm living in quebec canada,they're selling here the crd ltd around 38000$ ca funds,seems little bit expensive,but love diesel engine.Could anyone tell me if 800 miles with a tank is possible as suggested here by the manufacturers?I've owned up to now 8 Volks diesel alway's happy with mpg but soon,looking for a small boat need to tow 2500 pounds.The thing is that gas engine could also tow 5000 pounds!Should I invest almost 5000$extra for the diesel engine?Thanks you...

jimhemi

Whitgallman, what is your opinion on this? You seem to be pretty up on the subject.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=113

siberia

Michel7,

It is possible to get 600 miles on a 20 gallon tank of diesel driving 65 MPH all highway on cruise with minimal stopping in warm to hot weather, #2 diesel fuel, no head wind and nothing is wrong with the vehicle. My personal experience is that 800 miles on a tank is impossible and 500 miles is more likely. My overall fuel economy since new is 24.4 MPG 50/50 city/highway.

Expect 3 MPG lower fuel mileage on winter fuel.

tired_old_dave

Thank you for posting. I found lost after a reference got me searching, then found the forum, and unlimited. I thanked retmil46 here for the aero-turbine. I only post here.
I was hoping that someone, other than caribou1-who mentioned the airbox months ago, would look at the airbox.
There seems to be 2 issues.
The plastic inlet tube attached to the radiator mount is too long and/or too hard - it pushes the airbox rearward. Cut the tube and adapt real flexible tubing or do away with it entirely and get some hot engine air and and hopefullly no water in the box.
Secondly, the air box top does seem to be too tight for the filter or the tabs too weak, we all know the crd and the gassers use the same air filter.
I'm on my third dc filter. With 4,000 miles on the newest, it looked like it was a secondary ccv filter with the turbo backflushing crap into it.
Filter flow vs filter resistance links here. Out of frustration, yesterday I bought an eight dollar cheap paper air filter from O'reillys and took a road trip today. I felt the thinner paper let the diesel breathe better. I made the same mistake dc did, changed more than one variable at a time-new thin air filter and the aero-turbine muffler.
2200 to 2600 rpms and 25.8mpg's.

anthonyk

I routed the block heater power cord down the left side and pull the grill forward.I then thread the cord to the far left center louvers on the grill.

scogginsje

A few days ago a gent asked if anyone bought the shop manual and is it any good. No one answered him.

I am also interested in the manual.

Anybody use it?

Thanks

Jim

1hoot

I just purchased a 06 Liberty CRD from a broker here in Germany and look forward to picking the vehicle up soon in the Virginia area. I opted for the diesel engine because of the higher mpg and their proven success here in Europe. I just saw omething that shocked me though. Someone commented that diesel fuel is almost $4.00 a gallon in the US. Is this correct?

caribou1

As long as this oil meets DC229.3 specs, you're ok

caribou1

I've spotted a 'sticky' behaviour of my valve when I did my recent oil change. My mileage was getting worse with time but because of cold weather, heavy traffic, BFG T/A tires, K&N filter and personal feelings I had doubts.
My commuting mileage during the past year went from 10.3L/100KM to 12.2 last week (20~% worse).
I came across a recent Renault service document that stressed the need to clean these valves as soon as possible because they were having too many problems only related to the EGR.
I disconnected mine, and BINGO
The engine runs like when I first bought it, mileage is back to normal, shifting between 4th and 5th is sharp, when in overdrive at 60 mph acceleration is instantaneous when I need to overtake traffic.
This valve comes into play at around 1600 rpm and below 2500 rpm apparently. It stays closed at idle speed and under load. Mine definitely delayed to close the circuit and this affected turning off the engine as well as acceleration. When I turn off the engine now, it instantly stops :shades:
Driving in heavy traffic is easier because shifting responds to my toe. What a difference !!!

Now my question: could this be the cause of the erratic shifting some people mention here?
Renault/Nissan owners report a lack of power in the 4th and 5th gears, but never in 3rd. When we lock out the overdrive, we are in 3rd gear.

lightnin3

Hi Michel7,
You'll have to ask yourself what kind of driving will you do?...
Do you travel far distances? and towing?

I would suggest the "diesel liberty",just because it would out perform the gas 3.7L in mileage alone.
3.7L =350 miles /tank 22mpg/hiway typical sport $29 000ca
2.8L =500 miles/hiway 27mpg/Sport Diesel $34 000 ca

You can get the diesel Liberty in the sport package ,and save yourself $4000.Compared to the LTD .Unless you like heated leather seats and want to impress "Les Femmes".

But I would at least get the class 3 ,2" inch sleeve hitch
and 1,7/8" ball for most boat trailers,and make a deal with the dealer to trade in those crappy Wrangler tires they put on,and get some half decent All terrain T/A's ,because you'll most definitely will need traction ,there in Quebec.
Michelin makes an ATS and an LTX M/S that is reasonable .
B.F Goodrich all terrain T/A KO is the best grippy tire you'll find,but expensive.
You'll love the 4X4 in the liberty and the room inside compared to the little VW's is nice when you take out friends .You don't have to cram into a small car anymore,and get decent mileage,plus a multi purpose vehicle that is comfortable on the hiway.
A prochaine...
Mr."Gateau"

patentguy

In the Virginia area, diesel ranges from US$2.33 - US$2.99.

You can also do a search on Virginia Gas Prices

1hoot

OK,about the same as gas,that makes me feel better. Thanks for the info and the link.

skiduck

Hi caribou 1. Could you possibly post a picture of what you disconnected and how to the rest of us that might be having problems with the EGR. It might help with troubleshooting if we could diagnose an EGR problem versus something else with the engine. Thanks. Changing gears here, I have noticed that alot of people are concerned with getting a few more miles out of a gallon of diesel. I wonder if any body has come across a 3.7L gasser that had an accident at a junkyard and could pull out the 3.55 ring & pinion gears (remember that they are a matched set) and putting them into the diesel libby's??? If you wanted to their are aftermarket gear vendors that might have the correct sizes, maybe even a hardened set of 3.03's for really better hi-speed highway mileage. I think the CRD's have enough torque to compensate for the higher gears as long as you don't pull any trailers with it. I doubt that most people really need the lower 3.73's.

tired_old_dave

Sorry, forgot to respond last night. This morning noticed that the fresh air tube is rubbing the new intercooler hose. Temp fix with some black foam until I can find my closed cell heavy foam. That is still a temp fix.
With the air outlet in the lid, a cold air tube probably will never be made by an aftermarket company. There is a lot of tension from the outlet tube on the bottom of the airbox. I don't know if dc is going to help with the small number of kj crd's-my bet (and I should've listened to that mature mechanic at the selling dealership) do you want to be a guines pig. I think we are orphaned. The vm motor in the small kj engine compartment is a disaster. I'm going to lurk off roaders and try to find an airbox answer-any help here or from lost members will be greatly appreciated.
Caribou1 - caps not ball bearings(bb's)?

jkinzel

US diesel prices seem to be running about $2.50 a gallon + or - $0.25 from what I have seen in western Washington state.

jimhemi

What size BFG's are you running?

tired_old_dave

Sorry for the second post. I would like confirmation from somebody. The outlet tube is tapered outwide inside the lid of the airbox. The maf sensor is real close to the airbox lid. We need non collapsing air ducts because of the suction/pushing(vacuum cleaners don't suck they push air) of the turbo. Cut the round tube just before the maf and use common? aftermaket breathing tubes and air cleaners and replace all the junk we have in front of the maf...?

jimhemi

Besides tires and some air filters, has anyone added any of the limited aftermarket performance items to their CRD yet? I know BullyDog and Banks makes stuff for Dodge, Ford, and GM, but is their anything else for us CRD owners?
I came across this
http://drperformance.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=91&osCsid=0103d250854- 413bea5e3f1421665b638
Was wondering if anyone else has it and if the claims are true or not. Thanks for any imput. I'm always skeptical of user "reviews" on a product's webpage. The forums here seem to be the best for finding the truth.

skiduck

Hello turblediesel. I have an 05 limited and I was reading your post. I also have an 01 powerstroke that took awhile to heat up(thank you to whoever invented heated seats!) I recently replaced my t-stat on my Ford to a 203F to get alittle better heat and supposedly some more power out of it. I was looking at the front of my limited and noticed the extra cooling fan. What about just disconnecting this and placing some cardboard in front of the radiator to stop that frigid air from coming thru. Also I would check your t-stat for proper operation. One time I had a new vehicle and the factory forgot to put a t-stat in at all, the truck always seem to run cold and I didn't get very good gas mileage until I figured out why. Also a good site for some diesel knowledge and parts is www.dieselsite.com and www.dieselmanor.com. Unfortunately they are mostly for Ford/GM/Dodge but they do sell a device that saves your turbo by timing out when to turn off the ignition until your turbo temp is down to safe levels. I don't have this set-up but I thought it was an interesting idea. I personally only let mine cool down after I have been running it hard, normally I just take it easy the last few miles until I get home. Also about your fogged up windows, is your A/C compressor actually turning on, some have safety's that don't turn on if the temp's are to cold for the oil inside to properly lubricate. And hopefully this will end a long reply to your questions, do you have decent snowtires on your libby such as bridgestone Blizzak's or the new one's from Michelin (Artic?) Hope this helps and keep bundled up. -*|||||||*-

skiduck

Hi jimhemi, I tried this website and it was pretty basic. When you clicked on the product it would not even give you any kind of a bigger picture and some kind of specs. I don't know if this guy is building these things himself in his garage or what, but I will try to call him tomorrow. I signed up for his newsletter so we will see if he is for real. I did go to www.anythingauto.com and came up with some interesting finds (warn winch and a nice winch carrier for the libby) I have not bought anything yet but am looking into it. Please keep us posted if you find any good products out there. My friend has a bullydog plug and play adjustable power module on his 05 powerstroke and he instantly got better mileage (combined 19mpg) out of a 1 ton dually. So he recommends the company. Hopefully after thr CRD takes off then other aftermarket vendors will jump in. -*|||||||*-

skiduck

Hello boilermaker2. I live in MD and have been using Biodiesel most of the summer. There is a shell dealer kinda of out of my way to work that actually sells 100% or b100 for just under $4 a gallon but in Maryland the soybean growers board (sorry I don't remember the website right now but you should find it on a google search) is givin a 50% rebate after you buy $200 bucks worth with a maximum rebate of $500. I just got my first rebate last week. I personally blend it in my tank with about 25% bio to 75% petro and noticed a small decrease in mileage but no other problems besides that. I support farmers and not BIG oil whenever I can. Another local gas station just went to B10 for $2.49 a gallon which is comparable for my area. I agree that the smell both going in and coming out are better with Bio but watch out for getting it on your paint! Also it feels "slicker" to the touch then regular petro, so maybe it will keep the fuel pump gaskets lubed up too. I just bought my libby but I have used a good bit of Bio in my 01 powerstroke and did notice a lot of sludge that the Bio cleaned out of my tank on my fuel filter after I ran a few tanks of the mix even though I have always used PS additive. I think the website might be www.biodiesel.org with lots of links to other sites. Who knows your local soybean farmers might have a check-off program and a rebate program too! I didn't see any advertising on this except on the MD website of the above website. It also said that Bio has a cetane rating of 51 which is the same as euro-diesel.-*||||||*-

stever

The Jeep Liberty Diesel: Problems & Solutions discussion seems to be getting lost in the shuffle. Feel free to head over that way with specific problems and fixes.

Steve, Host

winter2

No. I am paying between 2.38 and 2.69 in the D.C. area. Look at gasbuddy.com and others like it. They might be paying $4.00 in Canada but not here.

winter2

I live in MD too. Where is the B10 station located?

whitgallman

I pulled both the product data sheet and Material Safety Data Sheet on this Valvoline Premium Blue. Product sheet does not show a Mercedes approval. The sulphated ash is 1.6%. The MSDS says the base stock is "DISTILLATES, PETROLEUM, HYDROTREATED HEAVY PARAFFINIC (64742-54-7)"; a white base stock Group II or III mineral oil (a synthetic based on the definition Castrol won in court). The high Viscosity Index probably comes from lots of Viscosity Index Improvers, not a lubricant in it's own right but a good Extreme Pressure additive.
If the CRD is set up to use ULSD, then a sulfated ash of 1.6% is on the high side. The Mobil 1 0W-40 and Delvac 1 5W-40 have polyalpha olefin base stock and sulfated ash of 1.2%/1.35% respectively (both blessed by Daimler Chrysler/Mercedes 229.3 and 228.5 respectively.) Back when I got my Cummins powered Dodge 1990, I bought Cummins Premium Blue. Then came the semi-synthetic version. My company's oil jobber had a drum of it in the corner. They said the additives had separated out. I'm sure Valvoline has fixed that problem.
The sulphated ash number comes from "ashing" the oil and treating it with Sulphuric acid. It measures the calcium sulphonate (TBN, anti-acid), ZDDP and other additives that have minerals that don't burn away like the hydrocarbons do in the combustion chamber. The oil that gets past the rings and valve stem seals carries the TBN to counteract the sulphuric acid formed when fuel sulfur is burned. Too much unused TBN ends up as deposits on your piston crowns and ring grooves.
Chevron has the same base stock as this Valvoline, calls it ISO-SYN and has worked to use hydrocarbon based additives rather than ash producing. I like the Chevron Delo 400 line if not using the Mobil synthetics.
Long live the CRD! (so Steve won't run me off to the other forum)

whitgallman

I want one. Is it on CD?

whitgallman

My 1985 Cadi w/4.3 liter V-6 Olds diesel got 500 miles on 12 gallons. (Charlotte to Orlando w/2 gallons left.) 20 gal would be 800mi.

jimhemi

Thanks skiduck, I thought I was one of the few people looking to squeeze a little more out of the little CRD. I know the potential for extra power out of a diesel is just amazing after seeing what Banks and the Bully Dog kits make. Hopefully the manufactures will start looking to us lucky few that own the CRD and we'll benefit like the bigger diesels.

farout

I proberly am wrong, but I think sometime ago someone said the 3.7 and the 2.8 only come with the 3.73. If you could find a 3.55 what about the speedometer? I put on 245 70 16 tires and the dealer had to measure the tire and compute what it had to do to the computer to correct my speedometer, it took them 1 hour! Do you think that might be a problem?

Farout

farout

I tried the BP premium diesel on my last fill up. At the station I usually use the pump just says #2 diesel. This premium has gone by like I was spraying water our of a hose. not even 200 miles on 1/2 half a tank. What do you think caused this? I won't try that again!

Farout