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Comments
Rotella T 5W-40 Synthetic Shell Rotella T 5W-40 Spec.
This is what I am using along with Purolator PureOne oil filter.
The Rotella is widely available, less cost than any other synthetic CI-4 Plus oil TTBOMK.
Thanks for the info.
9,000 miles on my CRD. 1 problem, it required a software reflash.
Also, I'm disappointed that Sirius no longer has Fox News. :mad:
Tons of problems? Not for me and not an accurate generalization in my experience.
There are some who have had multiple problems and I do not wish problems on any vehicle owner, however it does not seem to be the norm.
Software reflash and EGR replacements appear to be the only widespread issues.
I've almost used a tankful of fuel with the Shell Helix Ultra oil. It makes no positive difference on mileage. It could even be worse
I have the K&N installed as well.
In fact, the best mileage I ever got was with stock oil, stock tyres, in other words as it came from the assembly plant. Being honest is not is not very gratifying :sick:
Not too bad. You are lucky you bought the Lib CRD and did not spend $45k for a Lexus RX330. The transmissions are a real problem and Lexus cannot figure out how to fix them. Check out the complaints on the RX330 at NHTSA ODI. More than 3 to 1 over the much better selling Jeep Liberty. Mostly transmissions and brakes that just fail causing accidents. Many disgruntled owners complaining about the arrogance of the Lexus dealers. A real find for the Lemon Law attorneys.
7000 miles 0 problems--non--nada. This is a great vehicle---tons of torque, excellent mileage for a "real" 4wd, rides good, outstanding off road, fun to drive.
It is unfortunate that someone makes such a broad generalization based on comments from a forum.
Have only had back for couple of days. Seems to run better, pulls harder and does not rev as high to get up & go. Mileages seems to be up also, will let you know.
Still am waiting on a pipe for the EGR cooler leak, on national backorder for 1+ months now.
Since I do not have retail Biodiesel locally, I occasionally will load to 5 gallon canister and fill them with exact amounts (=/- .03?).
So, what that means is that I added 5 gallons and ran the tank low.
It's amazing what people will do to try to do the right thing. :shades:
Good Eye,
Boilermaker2
She's not a Lexus, Mercedes, Honda, Ford F-150; all of which I have either owned, driven or ridden in. She is in a class all of herself. She can outmaneuver anyone in the parking lot with a tight turning radius. She can scoot and wiggle over a ditch from the road to the field and back again like to other (those of you who've done this know all about articulation and the weird handling sensation it brings). She costs less that $30k and you can still hear the turbo whistle and whoosh which is fun while get 20+ mpg.
I think a few of you "blow her nose" just as an excuse to have a little fun. :surprise:
So, yes, I change her oil, keep her washed and try to find little ways to keep her happy so that she'll play in the snow, mud, water or hills when I ask her to.
She'll even pulled out a fence post, but I had to be real nice...
Chin up guys, she's special. I'm glad DCX doesn't try to promote her. Some things I just don't like to share.
:shades:
Boilermaker
bb's not necessary just a way to get one thinking.
For those who don't get lost, retmil46 uses rotella. And a good luck to retmil46 who got one of those engines not cleaned after manufacture and had grit come out of the first oil change and a dirty coolant recovery tank. He probably has an early build and there should be no one now with grit in the oil or coolant. I hope dc does him right - are you listening dc - and gives him a new diesel engine, crd, or one hell of an extended warranty for the rest of his life.
and have you found pretty good results using it.
In Canada we starting to see Bio-diesel stations start up finally.
What is the pricing comparatively to regular diesel fuel?
Speak Soon...
Lightnin3...
In my area, with a very conservative agrarian heritage, B2 is as high as most retailers will go (especially in the winter). They simply do "trust" the wax issue. This is simply protection of a market base and I'm cool with that. They've actually got the farmers and some non-farm folks to use it and so they will take no chances on it failing.
Now that I've said that, one of my friends who actually sells the stuff tells me that one of the co-ops is testing an additive this winter in this region that works well with commercially blended b-diesel. If it works, other retailers and co-ops will begin selling b-diesel with higher percentages in the winter.
So, do I like it? The simple answer is yes. The reasons are multi-part. Even at B2:
1.) smell is affected. some say french fries, I think the exhaust smells like crayons.
2.) perceptibly smoother
3.) I'd rather support a farmer, my neighbor, than a terrorist, my enemy.
Notice, I did not comment on increased fuel economy. I think that most math-types perusing my fuel log on this forum would agree.
Lastly, diesel prices are erratic on a good day. The energy 24 in Greenfield, IN is "out of the way" a 1/4 mile away, the GasAmerica regular diesel is often 20 higher than the e24 station which is co-op owned. They are usually 0-10 cents higher than the truck-stops.
I am not sure if the carry, use rates or supplier impacts the price spreads. Last summer, for a week, Shell's diesel was 80 cents cheaper than Murphy's Oil (WalMart).
Just my observations and enlightenment from some well-placed friends. Even in Canada, I don't think that B2 will have any increased frequency of gelling. With the new additives, you may (in the dead of winter) be able to safely go percentage blends. Try a least a 3/4 tank. The smell change is virtually instantaneous. Its amazing what just a little bean oil will do...
Boilermaker2
I will soon open my egr for inspection and do maintenance if needed. It's just getting 4 nuts loose on my truck.
I agree with you completely. It's nice to know another Hoosier has good success with their CRD. Mine has just turned 10K miles and no issues with EGR, mileage or transmission.
However, I have not tried the Bio-diesel yet. I just use BP Select Diesel and add Cetane boost!
Cheers!
Just an update on the results of the "new/redesigned parts" on the CRD. Five days later and things are running as they should have in the begining. No "check engine lights" and smooth running.
Fuel economy has always run around 24.5 mpg combined and close to 28 mpg on primary highways 26 mpg on interstates and 22 around town. Not too shabby!
Yeah, I think I do have a good dealer service department. In fact, the owner of the dealer ship paid for a rental when DC denied rental while they had it for five days! :surprise: Again not too shabby!! The unit was built in May, so I don't know if it is considered and early build or not. Even though I have been discouraged by the issues I've had, I guess on some level I expected the potential for problems with a initial year model. I'll know in a little while what other "issues" may arise.
The sucking sound you hear is CR's credibility going down the drain.
Quote Consumer Reports - The Liberty Diesel-powered CRD's 18-mpg average is better than the 15 mpg fuel economy that CR obtained in its previous tests of a V6-powered Liberty.-end
No one has been able to replicate Consumer Reports result of 11 mpg. During CR tests of CRD, CR obtained 18 mpg and 11 mpg, which test result of CR is correct?
Real world results tend to be 18-23 mpg in city and 21-28 mpg hwy depending on driver, type use, weather and other variables. Driven conservatively, the EPA 21/26 rating is achievable without difficulty.
I can obtain over 30 mpg on hwy per the trip computer, however, on majority highway trip I make every month the avg. mpg is typically 26-27 mpg based on gallons pumped and miles driven.
Yesterday we had rain followed by freezing and my driveway (steep up incline) was coated with ice. I had a hard time getting up the hill even in 4wd. I spun the tires as I went up hill, but finally got to the top.
Along the way up, first the the brake light, then the abs light came on. At the top of the drive when I was finally able to move a little without spinning, the brakes seemed to go on a long pulse (on/off) cycle and the vehicle would coast/stop as I finished moving.
I checked the codes using the key flash method-none. This morning, the brake light reset, but the abs light stayed on until I drove about 100 yds.
In short, it seems that my tire spinning seems to have "confused" the braking system. I have not had a problem like this before in the Jeep, or any other car with abs.
Any suggestions as to cause?
kylecivicsi
carsbikes
hondausa
gran_nat another user name? Too funny.
The CRD is a 4 cylinder, the link you posted is for a 6 cyl! ROFLMAO!
JD Power Liberty
If I dig around for a few minutes I can find comparable trash about Toyota, Honda, etc.
So boring.
Happy Motoring
I just had my EGR Air Flow Control Valve replaced. It was stuck open.
What is the EGR Air Flow Control Value, or what is it's purpose? Let me copy/paste from a segment I posted elsewhere:
"Apparently under certain conditions there is insufficient EGR flow (even with the EGR valve completely open) and air flow from the turbo has to be limited (via this valve) to increase the ratio of exhaust gas to air. If this valve is stuck open the system will detect the insufficient EGR flow and produce the code P0401."
Amplifying info from responders to my post:
"What it does have is a combo anti-shudder and egr air flow valve. It's used only on shutdown and when the egr is cycled its closed slightly, to increase the pull from the engine to the egr flow pipe."
One thing that is for certain - the shudder on shut down that I was experiencing has definitely stopped since this part was replace. There has been no further CEL's since this part's replacement.
Other things to note - This valve is unique to the VM CRD. It is not found the the Mercedes Sprinter diesel or the CTD.
Here are the parts replaced:
Part # Description
---------------------------------
5142799-AA Valve EGR 14033001
5142806-AA T/Body EG 14033001
5142613-AA Gasket EG 9001004
Other issues found during this visit: Chaffed turbo to intercooler hose (caused leak). The hose was chaffed right where it comes out of the turbo - next the the plastic duct work coming from the air box to turbo. I wonder if more people are having this chaffing problem and are unaware of it?
Tried fiberglass window screen behind the grill to try blocking air flow for a better/quicked warm up. No real difference. With temps hanging around zero it takes about 4 miles running faster than 50 mph to warm it up enough for fifth gear to kick in. I might have made a mistake in getting the tow package with the extra oil coolers for the engine and tranny. It might do better in cold climates to skip the tow package and just add a hitch. I've done one oil change and it took about 8 quarts of expensive synthetic dinosaurs instead of 6 like I think I read in the book. I'm really disappointed in the heat. You don't gain anything by letting it idle. If it's warmed up and idling it will drop to one-quarter of the temp gauge. I always heard diesels had great heaters... not this one. If I get stuck behind a slow driver or scoolbus I can drive all 8 miles to the big town without ever getting into fifth gear or warming up the thing. No fuel economy there. I can see best out the rear window. I spend a lot of time driving around in really cold weather with the windows down trying to see through the fogged/iced windows and windshield... I do scrape. Seems silly. Alaskans always seem to end up running to their vehicles at some point in the winter to warm toes and fingers. That won't work with the crd unless you're willing to blast along shivering and peeping through fogged windows. Bummer.
Something else I found out; If you're putting along in 2wd and you get stuck and put it into 4wd you're still spinning/stuck. Apparently the front wheels need to go around a bit to engage the 4wd. I found this out playing on glare ice covered with about 3 inches of light snow. The book says to gradually engage the parking brake which did nothing. My solution was to back up since I wasn't seriously stuck and put a shovel in the back for when I am seriously stuck. No big deal.
Has anyone bought the $175.00 service manual?? Is it worth the money?
Has anyone found a turbo-timer that works well??
Can anyone recommend driving lights to augment the lousy high beams. I'd like to mount them in the bumper cut-outs for the tow hooks. Everything I've run across is too big or junky. I don't want to buy a bumper to hang them on. Bad enough I have to buy headlights for a new car just to see down the road. Drove between two moose on the road last week because I couldn't see them 'til it was too late to stop. Already lost my driver's side mirror to a moose who worked himself into a dead run across the extremely well-lit ditch onto the highway. If I close my eyes on a hilly road I can almost see as well as if they were open with the high beams on. It's less scary too. These high beams were designed by a flat-land road hunter.
Does anyone know of a way to disable the ABS?? It's disabled itself twice now. First time I just wanted it to quit not working and second time I drove it around that way and really liked it. I could feel each wheel when they started to slide and I got better braking and control than with the abs on. With the abs on and braking on a slick surface all the wheels opt out and check in occasionally just to opt out again. It gets really silly if you're abs sliding and initiate a turn... then it seems like the wheels aren't even checking in and out anymore. I wouldn't mind leaving it on for rain and panic stops but an off switch would be great for the perma-slick conditions here.
I could go on about the random placement of the idiot light icons in the dash and my constant arguments with the 'courtesy' lights and door locks... well here's one; Stopped for fuel today at $2.55 per gallon; left it running for the two-minute rule, unlocked the doors to get the funnel and power service (trying it) from the back seat, put my spare door key in my pocket so I could have it locked while I went inside to pay and pay and pay. Had to climb inside and push all four door buttons down leaving the tail door unlocked but protected by big dog. Not too convenient. Alternative method... jump inside, close the door, hit the lock button, jump out, push the drivers door lock knob down. I have a third key stuck to the bottom for when I lock my other two keys inside. Both of my extra keys are only door capable. They won't work in the ignition. Anyone know how to disable the "panic button"? All it does is wake the neighbors when I bump my pocket.
You might think I hate my crd but I really like the way it runs and handles. It is quirky as hell. I don't recommend it if all you do is scoot around town for short trips. The low speeds and idling at lights keep it from being economical or warm and the wait for shut-down gets old fast. It is fun on the open road though. Love the torque. If you're really after fuel economy and you like a manual tranny the gas four cylinder seems like the way to go although they've been discontinued for 2006. I haven't driven one so I don't know if they're gutless or not. I doubt the gas 4-banger would pass as well as the diesel.
Thanks much for all the commentary. I've learned a lot from this forum. Thanks.
I appreciate your concern. In spite of all my complaints and comments about problems I do think it's a good design. Fun to drive.
Got to go. My dog's been chilling out long enough.
Maybe several smaller posts would be easier to digest.
Caribou1 posted his experiences about mountains,snow,4wd, and abs. Where did you put the 8qts? Don't go by the dipstick, drop filter and plug and drain,then add 6 Litres (6.4 US qts). Mine has never read full on the dipstick. Hell, the fuel guage has never worked right - that's getting recalibrated soon at the dealer with the drb? tool - not too rare according to the service manager.
During the heat problems this summer I mentioned that it is not easy to design a cheap good cooling system for extremes of hot and cold, emissions etc. I thought all diesels cooled down idling etc and not under load - mine does the same down here in Tx. Maybe you can change the pulley on the viscous heater? Put the renegade lights on the roof and lose another 1 mpg - an easier hit than a moose. "Don't spill Power Service inside the crd - Don't carry an open bottle of it inside of your vehicle" - That's what PS told me months ago - it makes a stinky sticky mess - PS is made (blended) here just west of Ft Worth. What tires are you running?
I got the 06 LE with select trac. However, according to the window sticker says i have the trac-loc differential.
Just for info.
Thanks, jim
Wow Sounds like your having a bad day...
1/
I would first invest in a 2nd set of winter rims and tires.I would get tires that are specifically rated for ice and snow.
My suggestion:
B.F Goodrich All terrain T/A KO
2nd choice...Sport King T/A
Michelin ATS M/S.
Run the tire at a pressure of 28-30 psi that should give you good traction in the winter snow.
Also try to keep your fuel tank above half so as to have weight on the tires.Sand bags in the back work well,for weight.This will help for ice traction.
When it is bad weather and icy ,drive slower in full time 4WD,with the OD off.This will keep your rpm's slightly up higher ,so as to make the front tires to pull you,this will give you better control on icy spots.
I do agree with good lighting.You need it !.
2/
A set of renegade lights on top with silver star bulbs will help greatly.I also suggest silver star lights for your headlights too.
You can get them from most autoparts store.
3/For heat ,try using the plug in block heater over night,for the morning commute,it just on the side of your oil dipstick,and a piece of cardboard covering half your rad will help warm up fast ,and fuel mileage as well.
Good Luck..
Lightnin3...