Jeep Liberty Diesel

winter2

Actually, diesels do have good heaters if the temperature is above a certain point. I have had good heat in single digit temps here in the D.C. area. I think once you get below zero though, then you run into problems. You might consider having the thermostat checked to make sure it is in good working order.

Some years ago, I owned an Isuzu diesel car (MY 1981). I recall driving to New England during the winter and went through a cold front. The temp plunged from the mid-forties to the low teens over only a few miles. There was a northwest wind blowing at 20 - 30 mph on top of that. The temp gauge took a nose dive to just above the "C" mark and heat output went from toasty to lukewarm (barely). I was going at 65 mph. I stopped at a truck stop and got a piece of cardboard to cover the lower half of the radiator. That barely helped. Had the thermostat checked and it was fine. What I learned was that diesels are thermally quite efficient and like heat. They will work well in cold, but to a point. Had this happen a few times in subzero New England weather.

bullhead

Wow! That must be the record long post!

Just a thought on your warm up problem: if you were to mount and adequately sized power inverter into the battery system and retain your block heater plugged into it?

The extra work for the engine through the alternator, plus the heater, should help, unless the block heater has a thermostat. It likely does.

lightnin3

Hi Towwme ,Having mileage problems??
Oh my thats awful mileage.

oil changes ,oil changes??
when was it last done?? Mobile 0W40??

If you tow make sure you change you differential fluids to the recommended synthetic 75/140 .This will help mileage.

If you have tried this then just ignore,I am just trying to help a brother out...
1/
Try running the tire pressure at 35 psi .

Drive at a constant speed of 57 mph in 5th OD
The whole distance...
Suggestion leave 10 minutes earlier and enjoy a coffee on the way..

2/plug in the engine heater at night during the winter.
A hot engine will produce better mileage...

3/add diesel fuel additive before filling ,then fill fuel tank with a premium fuel..

"fill up" ,try using Shell diesel ultra ,or BP. Premium,not regular..
you need that that extra 5 cetane...
or any premium brand no.2 diesel fuel,
If you can't find any try going to a truck stop to fill up.
Condensation develops in the tanks at the fuel pump,so you may be pumping a percentage of water in your tank...

You need to take the water out of the fuel,a fuel injector cleaner once in awhile,and a cetane improver .Powerservice does it all.
But there are lots of products on the market.
fuel additives...
I like Lucas formula upper cylinder lube,Kleen flo,or Stanadyne power formula.
and last but not least an oil change every 4000-5000 miles,or before any long trip will help mileage.
Use Mobile 1 0W40 the recommended stuff.
Hope to here from your results in a couple weeks.
and check your air filter to see what condition it is in as well.A plug filter can affect fuel mileage.
Good luck
Speak Soon ..
Lightnin3...

stever

"After decades of disinterest from American consumers, diesel manufacturers are eagerly predicting a boom with new cleaner fuels arriving at pumps this fall"

"Diesel Boom" Predicted for U.S. as Cleaner Fuel Comes to Pumps (Inside Line)

"Americans historically don't dig diesel."

Maybe that's because we never know how to spell it.

Steve, Host

tired_old_dave

Same thing here with fuel and mileage. A lost kj'er in Houston has been crying too - even worse mpg.
Got my egr replaced based on a lost statement from retmil46's Austin friend - a buzzing heard in the driver's seat that sounds like a sticking relay-that sound preceded the cel and shot egr. The service advisor stated that the dealership does not have the software and/or tool to recalibrate the crd fuel gauge. Service manager at the dealership where we purchased the crd last year told me that the float/gauge automatically recalibrates on fill up. Time to dig out the cd shop manual.

synlubes

i love my sport to but get about the same millage

craigs1969

fyi...Tonight on NBS Nightly news, they are doing a piece on biodiesel.

winter2

Who is NBS?

stever

Gotta be NBC Nightly News.

Now if I just had cable or an antenna. :P

Steve, Host

craigs1969

Yes, sorry it's NBC.

winter2

Okay, that seems reasonable.

Thanks to both

towwme

Tires 35 PSI, oil changes (first) 2500 miles Mobil 1 Oil 0W40 at dealership, every 5000 since. Used one quart of oil during this time, since new.

Premium Diesel is not available around here even at BP. I have tried the Powerservice additive for for a month (December) engine block heater every day. I plugged it in when I got home from work until the next morning. There was no change in mileage.

I don't know about water the warning light never came on.

Air filter look clean and I tap the dirt out every few weeks. K&N elements don't filter as fine of particle size so they allow more dirt into the engine. By the way that how K&N's get better air flow.

Don't drink coffee, gave it up was givin' me headaches. I like my CRD alot. This spring I'm having the differential oil changed to the synthetic.

Thanks!
Towme

synlubes

you are right i have a 600 dollar air flow machine and k@n pases lots of dirt

haroldb2

We bought the 2006 Jeep Liberty LE Command Trac CRD in Oct 2005 after having a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Larado 6 cylinder gas for 3 years, and we LOVE the CRD. It is more maneuverable, gets 5 MPG better mileage, brakes better, pulls my approx 2,500# boat better than the 2003 and is just plain fun. Although the CRD engine can be heard it is not unpleasant and a conversation of normal volume is no problem. We have towed both Jeeps behind a motorhome and it works great. Surprisingly the CRD is I believe 600# heavier than the 2003 due in part to the VM Motari Diesel. Check out www.allspar.com for a lot more info and history on the engine. The 12,500 mile oil change interval is nice and is made possible because they use synthetic oil, which although costs a little more, pays for itself by increasing the change interval by a factor of 2-3 times.

tomo

I was planning on ordering an 06 Liberty Limited CRD by the end of January because I couldn't find what I wanted on the lot......
But I fooled around shopping for best price and the incentive of 2500 expired now it is only 1000.....
So for now I will wait for a better incentive!!
Damn I am bummed....It will be bad enough to wait 8 weeks as it is.

tjs45d

I got my CRD in March '05. It has 24,500 miles so far. Had the computer flash update done in June'05. I like the vehicle except the transmission. After accelerating moderately, the converter locks up, then it stumbles back and forth almost like an engine stumble. Has anyone else had any experience like this? I went back in the posts for an hour and didn't see any posts on this subject, so forgive me if I missed some earlier posts. Thanks for any input.

tjs45d

After reading some of the posts on engine oil, I'll share what I found out by researching VM Motori's site. The CRD engine is made on the same assembly line as the industrial and marine variants of this engine. On their website they have service manuals and specs for these engines. The series of engines that are the same (to the best of my knowledge)as the CRD are HR3 engines. All the specs for these engines I could find called for Mobil Delvac 15W-40. This tells me that VM Motori has a relationship with Mobil to recommmend their oil products.(Which a lot of OEM's do) But Mobil is the only mfg. I know of to make a 0W-40 product. Thus, trying to lock CRD owners into using a Mobil product. Note: The 15W-40 oil is only recommended down to -4 Fahrenheit.

dcxman

filled up today. Got 24.5 at 75 mph. It's gradually creeping
up. I'm only at 4500 miles on an 06. Gotta keep lotsa air in
the tires. I'm at 38 psi. Bio in summer should also help.

lightnin3

Hi Towwme ...
Oh thats why ...
I would first get rid of the K&N air filter.
they are designed for gas engines that require more air flow.
Try a stock Napa air filter for a week.It won't hurt you in the pocket book.
And even at 2500 miles ,I would change the oil ,..go ahead change it and let me know how you make out??

I am also suprise that you have no no.2 diesel available anywhere??
I would definitely be using some sort of additive even though you trust your water seperator that much,Wow !..
Just ask a trucker about water in the fuel.They change their filter religiously and use "additives" all the time for mileage.
But I wish you the best of luck anyways..
Have fun ..
Speak Soon..
Lightnin3..

lightnin3

You can get Rotella T as well in 0W40 and 5W40 grades which is acceptable.
And for cost purposes you can go to Mobile 5W40,buy your own oil at a store ,it is readily available,and oil filters at car parts stores as well...
Speak Soon...
Lightnin3..

iammetalman

I order mine last week so can I still get last months rebate if I want it. The 0% they have now will work out much better for me.

sailormon

I have mentioned this before, check out a few fuel additives such as envirox. I still get an honest 29 mpg at 70 and 32 at 65 on the highway. Today in heavy traffic to the airport here in s. fl.I got 34mpg due to drafting cars ahead of me I suppose. By the way, when I slow down a bit to 60 I was recording 34. If you are in the cold this may not work however. This sounds good and is, but city driving takes it's tole and drops my ave quite fast around here. There are a lot of old farts like me or work trucks in punta gorda area. I am very happy with the car. I think I will check my tires and clean the air filter, maybe I can get better yet. Happy sailing to all, just got another boat and it gets even better mileage in charlotte harbor with the wind up. Think of it, just put some sails up on the roof. BR

towwme

No K&N here! Wouldn't own one! Gas engines require more air but at higher RPM. A 2.8L engine running at say 1800 RPM will take the same amount of air whether it is gas or Diesel (no turbo). The BP station has #2 but its not premium. The local BP station is only a few months old, new tanks, building etc, along with the Marthon in town, so water risk is lower. My parents had an Olds Diesel 88 back in the late 70's and it go a lot of water in fuel from Truck Stops (read: towed to dealer to drain the tank). There were but a few stations that carried Diesel in the area. I drove that car alot and it got 31 - 32 mpg on the highway v8 and all. They traded it in on another 88 in the early eighties but went to the 5.oL V8 due to the Rotor Injector pump problems.

I have an oil change coming up at 12,500 miles.

towwme

Can I install a "ragbag" on my CRD?

towwme

Mobil products are often specified by many manufacturers. No only engines but many machine tools and custom build manufacturing equipment also say Mobil this or equilavent.

siberia

Hi lightnin3, I agree with you on getting rid of the K&N air filter. However, I partially disagree with "they are designed for gas engines that require more airflow." At full turbo boost a CRD engine flows more than twice as much air as a 2.8 liter gas engine at the same RPM and full throttle. However, a small V8 can flow more air at full throttle and high RPM than a CRD.

I am sticking with the stock air filter and recommended change interval. I am unable to chart any mileage difference due to before and after filter change even though my filter looks filthy right before changing.

whitgallman

For me, during the first thousand or so miles, while the engine is breaking in, there are remnants of machining processes, casting processes and other chemicals that don't make their way out of the engine's oil passages until the engine goes through a few heat-up/cool-down cycles and the oil flows with some turbulance. The filter certainly takes the bigger pieces. The first oil charge would oxidize faster than later charges because the machined or cast metal surfaces have not formed a protective oxide layer yet. More molecular shearing (break down of oil molecules) takes place as more microwelding (peak to peak contact of parts surfaces) occurs during the break-in, before the parts lap themselves to their neighboring part.

Also, Its a fun way to get to know your new car (see the bottom) and pick out the tools needed for future oil changes (which filter wrench fits best, what size drain plug wrench?). A first date.

whitgallman

I've run a couple of tanks of B-20 (BP station) and noticed the smoother running. I would think smoother running means there is higher cetane. Our ULSD should offer smoother running too. API gravity of 38 or so.

sailormon

Sure, just don't run the engine as this will create what is called apparent wind. Br

lightnin3

I agree with Witgalman..
It may take 20 000 miles to break this diesel in.

Parts are still seating and tight.This causes increased friction,and heat,which in turn reduces efficiency.
I ahve countered this effect by changing the oil religiously every 3000 miles...
I found a big difference by changing the oil and filter , before a long trip as well.

Even though it is a synthetic oil,I treat her like a regular car,and give her more oil changes,which I found yielded better mileage and I recieved my savings in better mileage overall.

Why use additives??

The fuel can have a waxing effect in the cold.Wax up or build bacteria which clogs the fuel filter ,producing poor mileage in a nut shell.

The filter can fill up with water as well from poor fuel.
It is like cediment bowl,but has limits as well,and can ceep past the filter if not drained over time.
This percentage of water flows past the filter and be injected into the intake like a mist ,compressed and heated by combustion,of the fuel ,it turns into a steam which is shot out the exhaust pipe.

This again reduces the efficiency of the engine to produce good results in mileage .
This usually happens in the winter,where condensation build up at the gas station pump tanks.

Additives change the chemical composition of the water into a burnable fuel,while still lubricating the inner workings of the engine.

Additives Like power service,stanandyne ,Lucas upper cylinder lubricant,has a tendency to reduce this effect and yield better mileage .
Hope this clarifies everything...
Speak Soon..
Lightnin3..

synlubes

never buy diesel additives made in the south they no nothing about cold weather by them made up north

mdamick

Had the flash done about last June as well.
Only have that happen when loading the drivetrain in 4WD, acts like engine stops for split second occasionally.
Still does it after transmission repair, maybe not as much, have not had the road time to test.
Was told originally it was an EGR issue, may still be-getting too much EGR?

mopper

You better look again at the HR3 engine, it has very little in common to the CRD engine other than it comes from Italy...... it is an overhead valve engine mostly used in equipment & stationary stuff at full governed speed most of the time. Roger Penske is heavily involved with Mobil, you most likely have seen Ryan Newman & Rusty's race cars so there is as good an answer as any!
I would like somebody to let me know why (other than cost) anyone would want to use a different oil in the CRD, and please lets not here about how much they hate mobil or shell or anything like that! Thanks

moparbad

I was surprised to see prices of $19,999 for new 05 Liberty CRD at Carmax in Atlanta and Orlando.
Great value.

farout

I was not implying that anyone was not truthful, but rather that if someone backed their statement up with historical evidence, or proof the statement was more believable. Sorry if this offended anyone, perhaps I should have worded it better, my apologies.

Farout

farout

According to DC Customer Service at1-800-992-1997 and LLoyd Belt Jeep in Eldon, MO ph.1-573-392-7183 "part # 5066 55A is an O ring for the front axle drain plug." I honestly don't know what else to say. If there is such a fuel heater I would be glad to know for sure, lets see if we can find our for sure so others can with no doubt know for sure.

Farout

farout

You might also list the Ford Escape was also one that lower sales than the Liberty. I sincerely doubt you will see a Wrangler Diesel ant time soon. Look for the Grand C. to get a V-6 Diesel by 2008 perhaps. There might be some consideration for the Commander to get the V-6 diesel in the next three years if sales numbers show it's worth it.

Farout

libitup

In American made cars today that come with Mobil 1 do not require the same kind of breakin as they are broken in before we even see them. A mere 500 miles or less and you are ready to go. The Liberty Diesel is one of those that require little or no breakin because the things you just described happened at the factory. Besides, you can't breakin an engine on Mobil 1 or any other synthetic.
Libitup

bhcs111

That is interesting I bet maybe they have them in Europe on there Liberty's. The part number in my book says fuel heater. And then the service manual tells me how to fix and or replace it. I'm going to trace it in the wiring when I get a chance. Guess it really doesn't matter to me because the thing starts when it is cold with no problems and it has sat out in below zero weather without being plugged in. Next time I'm at my dealer I will have them look it up and see if it is the same.

whitgallman

I got to do an audit of the Mobil Beaumont Texas plant about 5 years ago. I saw Mr Goodwrench, Caterpillar, Toyota, Honda Motorcycle branded oils and lots of Mobil 1 10W-30 6 pack boxes with Dodge Vipers on them. Mercedes took their spec for 0W-40 synthetic to Mobil. They have a vested interest in sending business toward their spec'ed product to make sure it's popular enough to keep and produce cheap. Got to wonder though. A while back (10-15 years), Chevy put Mobil 1 in Corvettes to fix a heat transfer problem in the heads. Is D-C having us use 0W-40 or 5W-40 synthetic to address some design problem or an emissions issue? Or just to be able to advertise a 12,500 mi oil change interval?
I'm thinking the Delvac 1 5W-40 (Mobil 1 Truck & SUV) is going to be the better choice of the Mobils until the fuel sulfur comes down to 15 ppm because of the higher TBN (more base to counteract the sulfur acids.)

whitgallman

It might matter some in that the warmer fuel would atomize into a finer mist and therefore burn more completely in the combustion chamber. Might be hair splitting though.

whitgallman

I'm speeding up my break-in by letting a little more of the finer airborn dirt in through my K&N air filter. I am influenced by the independent filter test the DuraMax owner had done.

I've been to a half dozen auto parts stores and only half of them even had one oil filter (no one had a fuel filter). I've got a regular Fram, a regular Purolator and a NAPA Gold filter. Which one goes on this weekend?

synlubes

you are right on about all counts i have been selling synthetic oil for over twenty five years ansoil mobil are the leaders and i sell both mobil is more common they are all moving to longer drain intervals general motors was fist the european cars have been at ten thousands mile intervals for several years and going to twenty thousand miles pretty quick

anomious

Hi! In the parts manual, Fig. 014-340, item -10, part number 5066 555A is a heater. All of the other parts have item numbers with out the minus sign in front. The other parts are followed by the engine code, not item -10.

The Fig.014 340 is of the fuel filter and it does not show item -10. I think that the heater may have been there at one time and was later discontinued.
LK :confuse:
Notice the additional "5" in the part number.

towwme

I have worked with a couple of Mobil Lubrication Specialist on projects for work. In conversations with them I asked about the 0W40 Mobil 1 that is used in the CRD. What they said was that the 0W40 was used for flowability over 5W40, this means that it was specified to help with fuel mileage. The oil pump will not require as much power to move the oil through the system. I'm not sure about engine oil systems (lots of leaks) but in hydraulic systems the system's operating pressure (and flow) is a determining factor in the horsepower required. Also, the oil change interval is at a higher mileage because of it being synthetic. My dealer charges $85.00 for an oil change. Our Honda Civic has an oil change interval of 10,000 on regulator oil, that would be about 30,000 on synthetic?

winter2

10K on regular oil? If you did nothing but highway driving you could get away with that, maybe. 10K on synthetic is more reasonable in your Honda. 5K on regular oil would be my absolute outside limit, and that with mostly highway driving.

In my view, mineral motor oils are becoming passe`. They simply do not have the durability of synthetics under high heat/high engine stress situations. Mineral oils have never flowed as well or lubricated as well as synthetics and mineral oils require all sorts of chemicals in them to improve viscosity and flow. It is these chemicals that come apart and sludge up your engine.

stever

Lots of manufacturers have a normal service interval of 7,500 miles with regular mineral oil now. All oils have gotten better over the years. It's hard to justify the extra expense of running synthetic for the average consumer who trades every 4 or 5 years. I drive mine forever on dead dino on 7,500 mile (or longer) change intervals.

If you're really concerned, you should be doing a regular oil analysis and not relying on a time or mileage interval in the first place.

Check out the oil wars in the Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 discussion.

Steve, Host

unclebubba

For any who are interested: It's been one week and three hundred miles (highway, city, rural roads) without the engine light coming one after new EGR (third one, this one's redesigned).No engine light, no bucking!! It has been a joy to drive and always does what it's asked to do. I keep looking for that darn little yellow engine light though! I think I've been traumatized!!:surprise: I may have to seek counseling!! Naw!! I'll be okay! :shades:

winter2

When my CRD broke at 586 miles I was unsure about it for a week or two after I got it back. Even though all that was done was a flash of the controller it still irked me. Recently the hose to the intercooler ruptured, and again I was irked a little.

What you are feeling is no doubt normal. I guess expectations were slammed a little bit.

farout

There more than likely was, or is a fuel heater in the European Liberty CRD's. However, it appears fuel heaters are not in the US CRD's. I can not say one way or the other about CRD's in Canada. I think it would be good as an option. Also the fuel filter with the pictures in the forum a week or so ago is not like mine, so there is a difference there for sure.

Farout