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The truth is that know one knows, for sure, what is causing the so called “shudder, stutter, judder, jerking” that is talked about by so many. I have had 4 incidents of maybe 5 seconds in duration in 17K miles and have not had a reoccurrence in over 4k miles. I had a computer re-flash after the first time – apparently didn’t work.
T-O-Dave writes:
Retmil46 says at tdr they think the trans shudder is an electrical induction/field effect on the wiring to the pcm.
This is a credible and appealing hypothesis since induction affects sometimes tend to occur at narrow if not precise frequency and voltage ranges. If true, the problem could be cured by simple shielding or wire rerouting.
In three fuel filter drains I have found no water in the drainage – nada, zip, zilch, zero, none. I do not use fuel additives except for anti-gel in very cold weather.
I drive very easy and do not “blow its nose” and have not had an EGR valve problem, yet. I decided to be part of the “control” group in this experiment. I question the logic of systematically and marginally stressing an engine and drive-train just to save an EGR valve. Even if it does save the valve, it seems like a false economy to me. There is some early evidence (but by no means statistical proof) from some who do “blow its nose” that it might not be the greatest Idea – burst hoses, leakage, etc. Besides, easy driving puts a lot less of the crappy US fuel through the engine and less of the dirty exhaust through the EGR valve.
If you look at the cross section of such a valve you will see that excessive soot accumulation can easely be blown away from where the valve rests when it's closed. If one does have a leak of exhaust between the valve and it's seat, then exhaust gets into the admission when it shouldn't.
I will agree with both caribou1 and siberia. Seldom do I "blow the nose" of my vehicle but you have to know what happens when you when you don't.
Not even trying to pass myself off as an automotive engineer or a mechanic, I will tell you from experience that you will most likely encounter this problem when resuming normal rpm ranges immediately following a hard acceleration. This commonly occurs for me:
1.) After passing someone driving even slower than me (usually occurs on Sundays
2.) Ingressing onto an interstate from some ramps locally.
What you'll find that it often not repeatable. After you blow the nose and create a brown cloud behind you. The next "romp" will not yield as much smoke. The third will produce even less. I will neither confirm nor deny how I came upon this information.
So, is it a carbon or some other form of build-up? Yes, I think so. Is it the EGR? From other informed folk on this board, I am led to believe the answer is yes.
Can blowing the nose be a nice excuse for some of us to have a little fun and a "valid" excuse if the spouse catches us? Yes. :shades:
Cheers,
Boiler
Since the dealer replaced the EGR valve with the redesinged one and replacing the broken "EGR air control flow valve"(also redesigned!!), the shudder I used to experience after a high rev run, such as passing, has gone away!! :surprise:
Me thinks that if DC found it necessary to "redesign" two engine components already, that they are aware of and addressing the issues. Problem is (again, I think!) that STAR has not been allowing or directing repair/replacement unless driven to distraction by a reliable dealer service tech, who won't settle for anything but a resolution of a problem. It appears that I am beneficary of one of those types of technicians.
If anyones interested, my dealer has a left over 05 CRD Limited (loaded!!) that they offered to a close associate of mine for almost $7000.00 under msrp sticker.
Cool idea with the inverter. I might also reverse the wires on the electric fan so the cold gets blown away from the radiator. Warm thoughts seem to help.
I'm still running the original tires. I figure they're good for one winter while the tread's fresh. They're doing OK but I'll try something else next fall.
Got to go. Library computer says I have two minutes left.
Thanks for the info.
Farout
Farout
Farout
Also, digging up same old issues- what are good tires to put on Libby? I strickly drive in the mountains and stock tires totally suck in the snow.
9,000 miles and still loving it!
I think you have to be very careful if you reverse the wiring of the electrical fan. The bearings are usually not designed to accept the axial force coming from the other direction. Just a thought
So it seems we share the same information: when the egr works well, the transmission shifts well :shades:
Can you give us some detailed information on your Airstream towing?
Are you running an older single axle or a newer tandem axle?
What is your trailer weight empty, and then the GVWR?
What hitch setup are you using?
I have a 1977 Airstream 31 that I will need to downsize so that I can tow with the Liberty CRD. An Airstream 22 would be a nice size. I just wanted a confirmation that Libby can handle it.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
I had always thought that plus sizing would not have an impact on the speedometer reading. Learned something new today.
I just now took off the intermediate plastic piece that connects the airbox to the very small opening at the radiator brace/frame?. I also relieved some of the pressure pushing the airbox rearward.
I was shocked at how small the real opening is. I was planning on cutting the front tip off this intermediate piece(it just pushes in at both ends) at the most forward point to keep down engine heat and water. I held my fingers over the round hole in the airbox while idling and there was no rpm drop until my fingers started to whistle and get sucked in to the box.
Please tell me what I have now done good if any and bad.
Where is n3qik (ken)?
In any event, I plan on finally putting on a tow hitch for a small sailboat and wanted to know about the overheat fix.
First, there was a software issue that has been supposedly resolved.
Second, some people had bad fans, more precisely bad clutches on the fans.
I do not tow but have carried a lot of people and cargo in my CRD from time to time last summer. Even in 95+ heat with 70+% humidity, A/C running, the temp gauge indicator never went past the half-way mark. I climbed long (5+ miles) 18% grades at 60 - 65 mph in these conditions with four large adults plus luggage and no problem.
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If you read the posts that followed your post you now know that the CRD has an engine driven fan as well as an electric fan. In the temperature range that you state your electric fan should not run, at least mine hasn't run for several months since cold weather hit.
1/2 on the temperature gauge is 180F. 1/4th is 140F and 3/4 is 220F based on 1/4 reading. On cold days (below 20F) I run in the low 160's.
So you're telling me there is an engine driven fan behind the radiator? I see the big electric one in the front of the radiator, directly behind the grill. That thing hasn't turned on, that much I know of. I did not know that there is an engine driven fan as well. Thanks
Was it you farmdiesel that said you'll do air flow for your mods - you are correct. I'll take that nano fiber flat filter from anybody-donaldson, aem, amsoil - I don't care and remember we use the same filter as the gassers so you do have a market.
Removed the bottom of the airbox cleaned out the drains holes that are right above the ps hose. The broken tab on the airbox top, hard to install air filter and damaged intercooler hose can all be attributed to the assembly line.
Looking from the passenger fender, the hose clamp screw was at 7-8 o'clock right by the ps reservoir. I should have removed the hose at the turbo as well as at the airbox lid and reposition it. Instead I rotated the hose to where the tightening nut was more like 11 o'clock. This put forward pressure on the lid(and therefore the bottom airbox). Space at the intercooler hose, filter goes right in and slots fully enter the tabs.
Thanks Toledo - I hope you build them better at your new plant - or is dc wanting the line faster.
I read somewhere,maybe it was on this site, possible the owners manual, that the electric fan you see comes on when you use the defroster or A/C. I am also fairly certain that if you also do the floor-only selection for a "heat" setting that this also turns on the A/C automatically. I remember this because I think someone chastised DCX for not making the compressor activation an option when using the floor vent setting (and consuming energy/fuel) on a vehicle that was meant for misers who like mud.
I'll check to see if the fan & compressor come on tonight before I drive home.
As far as heating up the vehicle, I drive my jeep the first mile or two with the whole system off. You can't do this for too long or you won't be able to see out.
Boiler
Has anyone attempted to mate the two together? What parts did you need?
Thanks,
Boiler
It is hard to tell what kind of quality of fuel you are getting at that station.
If you decide to try
B.P premium diesel again,
shell diesel ultra,
citgo #1<$2.89/gal>..,
I look for the stations that the fire trucks and ambulances fill up at,or truck stops,with a normal sized pump for cars.
They usually have the freshest fuel,with the least amount of staleness,and water content.
If you don't have this availability of disel fuel stations,
I carry a 1 quart bottle in the garage of "Lucas upper cylinder lubricity additive" and add that to the new tank of fuel.
It is an excellent product for stale fuel.
So if you fill up at "Joes corner garage" where the diesel is "ultra cheap" , you can bet it's been there for a couple of monthes in the ground tanks just waiting for you to fill up.
Lucas upper cylinder diesel additive "spruces up" the fuel ,cleans the injectors,and lubricates the upper part of the cylinder heads,which in tail produces more power ,and better mileage.
The only thing it doesn't do is reduce the water content in the fuel.
I usually alternate additives,in the winter.
1 fill up ..add Lucas diesel upper cylinder lubricant.
and the next fill up add ..a cetane improver that is a water dispersant.
Like any of these fine products,
power service,Stanadyne,Kleen Flo,or Lucas if they sell it.
Fuel Additives are a cheap investment,that can give great paybacks in the long run.
It is like getting an oil change,you know it does the engine good well it can't hurt ....
You don't want a fuel line freeze up ..it "ain't" fun when your stuck on the side of the road ..
Fuel is half the battle ,Oil is the other half....
Have Fun..
Speak Soon...
Lightnin3...
So I have an electric in front and the good ol' clutch fan behind. Good to know. I bought the trailer tow package and all so I guess come summer that AC will blow cold forever.
As Far as Sirius, mine came with it free for a year. Nice thing is that it came with the factory head unit w/ cd player and all. I hate those tiny buttons on aftermarket radios. Too hard to find when cruising at 80
Stern sounds good too :P
Boiler
The ps hose rubbing the bottom of the airbox also meant my ps hose was rubbing the plastic webbing on the radiator return line. I pushed and pulled it through the rubber lined deck clamp (attached to the unibox frame) for clearance.
The better half confirmed my first thoughts. Driving last night she agreed that with the airbox hole and no inlet tube, thinner cheap clean air cleaner, and aero-turbine muffler - I now have what I asked for many months ago - attenuation of the accelerator pedal - you don't know you have a turbo - smooth acceleration like a v-8, turbo doesn't struggle doesn't jerk you around just provides smooth pleasant power - If mileage goes up even more I'll take it.
alljeep, I've been watching the lbj issue and the greaseable moog. That's my next area of interest. dc lets give all 1 million plus kj's some moog's?- maybe you don't have to pay list like we do.
With the 2007’s only 6 to 7 months away it seems the prices for an 05 are a little high. I don’t expect them to give them away, but I think a good deal could be had.
Kelly’s BB list a closes guess to the above 05 Sport at Invoice $24,759, MSRP $26,535, and KBB at 25,007. I didn’t price out the Limited.
Also of note on the diesel front is a quote from an email I received from a VW dealer when I inquired about Jetta TDI’s.
“These cars (Jetta’s) are in extreme high demand and in short supply. To add to this VW is not going to produce a model 2007 in a TDI from what we here in any line of car. So don't wait to long because dealers inventory are already getting thin on 2006 TDI's.” :surprise:
Anyone heard a rumor that VW will not have diesels in their 2007 line-up? I’ll also ask at the VW forum.
I also went with the 2006 because I figured by now DC had worked out a few of the glitches that the brandy new 2005's had on them. 2006 CRD also has 0% financing for up to 60 months. You can get 2.9% for 72 months or take the $1,500 rebate and give up the special APR. You can also take 0% and $500 cash back. Hope this helped. Good luck on your quest for Diesel Power.
Haven't heard anything about the VW, just can't compare the go anywhere freedom of the Jeep to a car. Loven my Libby :shades:
Last night I took our VW GTI into the Volks dealer for a 30K mile service and asked about TDi versions of the Jetta and Passat because I am interested in maybe getting a diesel car next year. This dealer is a very large volume dealer and what diesels they had, they have sold them all. In fact some models on their lot were sold at sticker and then shipped to the owners, one in Oregon and the other in Maryland because none were available. The B6 Passat won't get a diesel til we really truly have Ultra low sulfur diesel. That, according to rumor could be as late as the 2008 MY.
There are rumors flying around that dealership that the actual implementation of ULSD might also be delayed so I emailed a major refiner/retailer in the upper midwest and got an answer back in less than 5 minutes from customer service saying they are making ULSD early 2006 and will have it at the pump before the October 2006 retail deadline. So I am baffled about what is going on. When S15 (low sulfur 15ppm diesel) comes to the pumps it will be labeled. Apparently some places will sell S500 (500ppm sulfur) but that will come with pump labeling stating it is not to be used in 2007 or later engines. I don't understand why both would be sold.
There is a lot of confusion around this issue and that confusion bleeds into what VW has planned. Frankly, if the Toureg was available with the little V6 TDi they offer in Europe, I'dve bought that in a heartbeat. But Jeep is doing this truck right NOW.
I know that my current Jeep Liberty runs great on all the fuel I'm buying currently, they are available for purchase today, and this little Libby is the most fun I've had offroad in ages. The diesel and the torque for pulling boats out of the water and going up and over off road stuff is a BLAST. If ULSD makes it cleaner later this year, great, but I live in an area without a lot of air pollution problems. On the other hand, I'll be happy to buy ULSD when it comes and since I'm in a state that requres B2 Biodiesel (adds lubricity) and the refiner assured me that they will also have other lubricity additives, so I will soon pollute less without any worries.
Buy the truck, you'll love it.
Ordered a CD-ROM shop manual on E-bay $49 (thanks Tired-Old-Dave!!) (not in yet)
http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/fuels/bulletin/diesel/Diesel%20Fuel%20R- - ev.pdf
It has lots of good info on diesel properties.
It's got a sectiion on what can be called Premium Diesel Fuel.