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Comments
You have to get the 245 if you want a thicker tire.
This matters if you go drive over sharp stones.
Good decision on trading the OEM tires in,for a good all terrain type.
The investment will be well worth it.
If you are driving alot on the hiway,maybe a second set of rims and tires for the winter should be on the list .
There is nothing like having good tires ,in bad weather.Just zip by everybody with confidence,and control,not to mention safer.
There are some good brands out there at a fair cost.
For the stickiest tires for snow and ice,
I have to say
B.F goodrich all terrain T/A KO
Goodyear Wranglers ATS M/S are also up there for sticky tires, but are noisy.
Michelin LTX M/S
Sport King T/A
Good hunting ..
Lightnin3..
I don't know about yours but if your valve is electrically driven and has a 4/5 wire connector, then you will need to inspect and clean even if not necessary because the computer will most certainly put you into "default mode" as soon as you disconnect.
This is one of the reasons why I called this CPU "Damoclès" :mad:
Never have shared Jim's views, and I'm not about to start. Would be nice if he did not compare the CRD with the 4 cyl. gas Liberty that is not sold in 2006.
Send him an email!
(caribou1 could you put your E-mail address on your profile for a brief period?)
GY Wrangler ST rating
As for wishes of some added power, I emailed Banks engineering and they are working on some kits that we'll be able to benefit from in the near future. :shades:
Last tank, added Power Service, plugged engine overnite, all highway mileage, BP Diesel - whooping 405.7 miles on 18.7 gallons = 21.69mpg.
Lets wait until warmup time and try bio, with 38 psi in the
tires. Mileage will improve.
By the way, I have driven the 4 cyl. and it would be a great
commuter vehicle. But thats where the comparison ends.
Farout
Farout
Farout
Farout
I am kind of on the fence about these tires. When I look at the specs of the ST's compared to other tires they seem to be marginal for the CRD. However, my practical experience is similar to yours.
At 17K miles they are wearing a little faster than I am used to, but I'm not loosing any sleep over it.
Back to the Good Year RSAs. Good Year has re-badged the RSA to ST for the small trucks and are selling them on Liberty's and some low end Dakotas. Long winded story short, they are purpose built car tires on an SUV. That should just never be... unless you look at who the car companies answer to at the end of the day and that's share holders and profit. Cheap tires from Good Year that cost $40( that's cost from Good Year to the majority of police agencies in this country) vs tires that cost over $100 and the proof is obvious as to why these tires have no business being on an SUV. :lemon:
After reading 4,000 posts and pulling out all of the negative posts about the Liberty CRD from memory:
The cooling system, turbo air hoses, turbo oil feed lines, EGR valves, ECU’s, the fuel itself, fuel additives, engine oils available, acceleration, fuel economy, transmission shifting, cloth seat material stained by rain water, oil drain plug gasket, oil filter size and location, seats too hard, lack of gauges, electric window switch location, hitch/spare tire location, and numerous things that I have forgotten are all marginal, inadequate or poorly designed.
It would seem like the marginal tires are a perfect match!
Live long and prosper.
I was told the Bio fuel lacks consistent quality from plant to plant.
I stopped using some additives due to some of your earlier posts. I have not seen any diminishing performance...though I did add some when temps dipped sub-20's
The bio-diesel has had some consistency problems in the past but, at least in our area (Indiana), this issue is fading fast. Many of the retail B-diesel outlets are co-op owned which means the owners have a vested interest from the bean to the pump. In addition, the ASTM processes have helped to standardize and weed out the bad apples. I get to tour a refinery this summer that actually blends the P-diesel with the B-diesel. Kinda cool, the b-diesel is injected inline under heat and pressure for a more complete blend than just "splashing" it in.
Lastly, the fuel industry is working on additive that THEY add that minimizes the waxing issue. It is actually being test marketed in another region right now.
Cheers,
Boiler
Of course America was built with a pioneering spirit...but Farout and I just hope that B-100, your CRD and you don't form the next Donner party. :surprise:
Cheers,
Boiler
If time permits today Im going to look at a new 2005 2.8L Liberty and was wondering if this a desired option.
http://www.skidplates.com/
They are WAAAYYY thicker then factory skid plates and they seem to be better for changing your oil. They are a little pricier, but they are thicker and offer better protection if you are a serious off roader. Skid Rows Skid plates are also powder coated so I know they won't rust from the corrosive oil spilling on them from oil changes.
As for your lift concern, I will post a link to a company that seems to specialize in lift kits for us Liberty owners. You shouldn't need the dealer to instal in order to keep the warranty, although anything we do, the dealer will blame us and find away to avoid honoring the warranty.
"So you can visit New York, California, Maine, Massachusetts or Vermont in your diesel Liberty, you just can't buy diesel fuel when it's time to go home."
I didn't see anything about comparing mileage to the 4 cyl. gas Liberty. But I find the statement above from the review to be disconcerting. I cannot believe the the states listed are diesel free states with diesel fuel not available. What would the trucks run on?
Make sure you follow the transmission/drivetrain care advice in the maintenance guide.
Its not on the '06 because the anti-lock, anti-roll and traction control are all computer-brake controlled.
In short, get it with Trac-lok. It will make your vehicle that much more capable if you want to take it off the road. If your largest obstacle is a pothole in the mall parking lot, you won't miss it.
Cheers,
Boiler
You are also right about truck drivers needing diesel not to mention heavy equipment and tractors.
As stated in earlier articles (by Edmunds and others
Take care,
Boiler
Just kidding about switching wires on my electric fan in response to the post suggesting an inverter with the block heater plugged in to produce more heat. Theoretical musings. I've only noticed the electric fan running once while I was idling/talking too long on a hot Maryland day. I think I should have skipped the tow package and just added a hitch. I don't really need the extra cooling capacity here in Alaska. I suppose the tow package is designed for hauling overloads up steep hills too fast on hot days like we don't get here.
Went to a plumber's parts store(sometimes the muzak in home depot and lowe's coupled with whinners drives me out) and bought pipe parts; a 3" plastic male adapter and a 3" to 4" rubber coupling. Removed the 4" SS hose clamp, shoved the male adapter out from inside the airbox and attached the 3" side of the coupling to the threads and tightened the clamp on the adapter's threads. The large 4" bell encircles the 4 sided fixed piece at the frame with gaps around the plastic and away from the frame.
While my inside diameter at the box is now smaller I still get the effect of no tube at all or even a little better and when summer comes I won't have to worry about excess engine heat. The rubber coupling does rest on the windshield washer tube but rubber is softer than plastic.
It runs great but I also just filled up again and it is warm. Balljoints and kyb's then I hope I'm done for awhile.
I think the reason it isn't offered anymore is that it can act funny when it "hooks-up". I think there was a post from a guy who flipped when the back end started to come around and it hooked-up. If you want to do broadies (whoo-hoo!) or 180s you just need to use enough torque to spin both rear wheels to be sure it won't hook-up-flip. (Now everyone probably thinks I drive like a psycho.)
I drove all over a steep slick town near here in 2wd with trac-loc and it did great up and down the hills. Really nice. I used to try leaving it in 2wd on our fairly slick main roads for better milage but it works well enough that I forget I'm not in 4wd cruising down the road at highway speeds and get surprised when it looses tracion. One time I had it in 2wd, forgot, and got on the gas to pass only to have the back end step out on me with no increase in speed or pass. I leave it in 4wd now and make a 5mpg donation to the oil companies because they're poor and I don't want to wreck my Jeep.
Hope that helped.
I never made it to my test drive today. Too much stuff, not enough day.
tidester, host
Sorry to take so long to repy to your Jan 31 reply. I appreciate all your posts.
I'm due for another oil change so I'll find out for sure how much oil it takes. Maybe it's all OK and I just got lost in Canadian imperial quarts. Mobil 1 0w40 isn't available where I live and every time I try to go to Anchorage where they have everything we lose the road to avalanches. Jeep's not avalanche capable.
What was your fuel gauge doing? Mine acts funny whenever I fill up... takes awhile to reflect that I've been to the gas station. I suppose that's due to foaming. I've tried topping off and that just spills dinosaurs all over my tire.
About changing the pulley on my viscous heater... I have no idea what that means.
The heating only bothers me cause I like to see out the windows. I'll probably end up with cardboard in the grill. Tried the window screen which didn't seem to make a difference but I didn't get all scientific about it. A recent post mentioned the radiator got plugged up with snow causing overheating. I'm leaving the window screen in so it can all pack up there and still draw air from the space between the grill and radiator. I'll bet you don't have chilly problems in Texas... and you got the trac-loc... If you didn't get the tow package maybe we can trade... What color did you want?
My solution for the big open bottle of power service spilling is to keep some in a small 5-6oz bottle that originally held 2 stroke oil for my chainsaw which goes in a cup-holder. Funnel gets stuffed with a paper napkin in a zip lock bag on the floor to the left of the driver's seat. I usually fill up at a quarter tank so the mix should be about right. It is nasty stinky stuff. Spilled some in my cabin filling the little bottle.
Still using the original tires. I figure I can get one winter from them. They're OK. I'm taking notes from the forum to help decide what to put on when fall comes.
Take care.
Does Anyone have any answers or input.
Thanks,
Moparman2
Farout
Thanks for the forum. It's nice to have this kind of group consciousness without having to join clubs and get lost missing meetings too far away to go to anyway. I've played with some obscure bikes and cars along the way and gone through the hassle of finding parts and noises and people that know something and care to share. This is a lot easier. Nice to know about the problems to look out for and have advice from the folks who've been there and know the solutions. This works well.