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Comments
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks for the diagrams from Renault, but my French is in a rather poor state of dis-repair. The vacuum solenoid pictured here looks different from what is on my CRD. If you can get these or any other diagrams in German, that would be fine as I am a native German speaker/reader/so-so writer.
The other thing I might try would be to adapt an old style fuel filter such as from an older Nissan or Toyota that has a plastic housing. I would plug up one end and then put numerous small holes all over the diameter of the case so air could flow through it.
The use of additives is controversial at best and everyone has their own opinion and their own favorites. I use a cetane improver and detergent from Amsoil or Redline. I feel the cetane improver helps the most. The higher the cetane, the quicker and cleaner the burn. The detergent keeps the injector nozzles squeaky clean but I do not think that it has any direct impact on the EGR valve.
As to "purging" the EGR valve, I use Caribou1's method at least weekly. I still have the factory EGR valve that came with my CRD and so far so good. After a good blast or two, the engine seems to run better (smoother, quieter). Could be my imagination too, what is left of it.
Trailblazer SS sure looks good. I wish I was younger and richer.
egr failure (they call it egr coolant), lack of achieving posted mileage, vw dealer lack of expertise, is the tdi worth the cost difference, etc. In short, many (most?) of the complaints one finds here are also seen on that site. In fact, one contributor noted (in response to a question "i'm scared to buy a tdi based on what i see here") said, don't worry people don't post unless they have problems.
Sounds familiar, doesn't it!
Make a web search with "agr ventil reparatur".
This will make you feel much better. If you get to the page #TDI PROBLEME# and read about polymerisation of the engine sump oil after using biodiesel (with clear pictures if you please), you may not have a good night's sleep.
I think it's safer to stick to what we know is good and don't reinvent the wheel unless we have a spare one with us
Nasty looking pictures. They speak of unburned biodiesel getting into the sump and really gumming up the works. Will I stop using B5 or B10? Probably not since I do not use it that often. Also, I change oil and oil filter pretty frequently, every 4K miles.
1. Did I just get lucky with my Jeep, or will the problems described throughout this forum eventually catch-up to me?
2. What exactly is an EGR valve, how will I know when it goes out?
3. Is anyone using 'by-pass filtering' for the oil? I read where some folks had been using this on Ford Powerstroke Diesels and was wondering if there was any applicability to the CRD.
You will find that most of the time people post with complaints/problems and this probably corresponds to about 1% of the CRD owners.
It is a great vehicle and you should experience very few or none of the problems posted here.
The EGR is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve and mine has been fine so far. I hear any problems are due to the poor quality/low cetane fuel in the US.
cheers
Wally
The computer in you CRD monitors the functioning of the EGR valve and will turn on an engine warning light if a problem is detected. I have a Mar. 05 build date and I have not had a problem with the EGR valve, yet. It is a part that is doomed to fail, sometime.
My limited knowledge of bypass filtering is that it is mostly used on commercial diesel engines where the oil is changed at intervals of 25k miles or longer and the engines hold 15 quarts or more of oil. According to my parts guy, the oil filter on the CRD is the same one used on the Ford PowerStroke Diesel, so (if true) it ought to be good enough for the smaller CRD engine. The bypass filtering systems that I saw were pretty big and room is limited under the CRD hood. You might be just a well off to just buy good quality oil filters.
The oil changes are frequent enough so that the oil is not totally wiped out and still has good lubricating and adequate detergency.
I would like to use a Power Stroke filter due to the added size I can get an extra qt. of oil out of the deal. If anyone knows of a BIGGER oil filter please advise. Thanks
Hey Jimmi ,
Are the Powerstroke filters larger than a typical Fram filter?..
If so I am interested in getting some.
I am looking for a filter with a larger filtering surface,for better cleaning ability ,plus more oil capacity,thats great.
Where could you get these types of filters??
Speak Soon ...
Lightnin3...
It's good. Read it with ADOBE. Looks real. Covers 2004, 2005 and 2006 model years for Libertys. With shipping etc, it was about $65.
A bigger filter WILL hold more dirt, give more sump capacity, but it acts as a fluid capacitor (acccumulator) and may keep the oil passages to the turbo from coming up to pressure as quick as is needed. This problem surfaced on 1978 Buick Regal Sports Coupes (w/Turbo 3.8 gas engine) that my brother had. Wiped Turbo Bearings.
Just a consideration.
I went to the WIX look-up site and could not find a match with FPS. There were two different WIX filters for the FPS that I found with different numbers. Please accept my apology for posting bad info on this site.
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super is a good 15W-40 mineral based oil for your Peter Builts, Western Stars and Freightliners. (Cummins, Cats and Detroits). I like Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 for it's group II base stock. Shell is OK, they know oil.
I remounted the cheesy ST tires for the trip w/ 38 front & 36 rear psi. They continue to provide decent service and great economy.
Although the CRD delivers noticeably diminishing returns after 70 mph (compared to petrol powered), it kept up ably in 85 - 95 mph Bay Area traffic. Satisfying to have the reserve acceleration for confounding habitual lane hoppers in Beamers and Benzes: Who'd have you think even 85 mph isn't fast enough. :mad:
Owyhee!
High cetane meaning the fuel burns more promptly upon injection which relates to timing, like piston being on it's way down the power stroke. Diesels are quieter with high cetane fuel.
Diminishing returns above 70 mph is related to aerodynamic drag. I'll bet Libby's have the drag coefficient of shoe boxes. Does anybody have a number for Liberty drag?
I'm a mechanical engineer, that took some organic chemistry in college, at a utility that has a cluster of nuclear plants and have responsibility for supporting diesel driven stuff like big standby generators (7MW) to little diesel driven compressors, mostly from the petroleum side, fuel & oil. I also have responsibility for the oils, greases and other lubes used around the plants. Gone to lots of training at SwRI etc. and done QA audits at Mobil Beaumont and one at Ricardo. (long ago our plants contracted lubes with Exxon)
I've played with diesels at home too, '79 Chevy C-10 w/GM-Olds, Cadi w/ 4.3 Olds, '63 MB 190Dc, '90 Dodge Cummins.
But I'm a student more that teacher still. Sometimes being known for having a focused interest brings you people that you learn from while helping them. It's fun for me. Thank you!
These big companies help each other. The oil guys will buy additives and base stocks from each other. GM will lend a brake engineer to Ford or do research together like the new 6 speed automatic trannys coming out soon. It's all a commodity to them.
The mileage I got was most related to speed, constancy of speed, and temperature. My mileage figures are for all driving activities, including warm-up, stops, acceleration. Cruising at 58 mph on a warm day with an unloaded Libby, I'm likely near the middle-thirties mpg.
Cetane improver is highly recommended as I see, smell, feel, and hear the results of using it. Dieselmotive, a viscous lubricity additive, is also a very effective injector cleaner showing rapid results over the many treatments I've done. When traveling under high demand conditions, ensuring good fuel lubricity makes sense.
11K now. March `05 Build. No time in the shop at all. None. No leaks whatsoever. EGR- What EGR? Am I happy with it or what !!!
If you're stuck for the right oil and can't find a 0W-40 synthetic, your always safer going for a slightly thicker oil choice.
Drag Coefficient = 0.421
Frontal Area = 29.74 sq. ft. (2.76 sq. m.)
One thing I don't ever think I'll get used to is the lack of storage space. We commute 130 miles daily and need space for lots of items in our 'mini home' away from home. I'm looking for something with storage for directly behind the front seats with the rear seats down, but looks like we'll be making it ourselves.
We're also wanting to mount an EGT gauge somewhere, but looks like this also will need to be custom.
Has anyone any pre-made solutions for either of these? I didn't find anything in the search, except wish lists!
BTW - I have the Wrangler ST's also. Plan to get T/A KO's, but since we're not experiencing a normal winter (dry), I might just use them until next year. Played in what little snow we have and 2wd was just fine - so far. It's the spring mud and a 3.5 mile dirt driveway that has me worried!
Husband has a Cummins, so diesels aren't new to him - just me
I'm looking forward to my jeep-ventures!
Michelle
Thanks,
Bob
Thanks,
Bob
We appreciate the knowledge-sharing on this forum and we will do the same. Thanks.
Mileage will vary from to time to time until the Liberty breaks in.Then will be more consistant.
Break in period is usually 20 000 miles on a diesel.
Expected mileage:
18 -20mpg city
23- 28 mpg hiway
Some have been achieving 30mpg hiway
..
by using these methods...
Also other factors will affect mileage by +/- 4mpg.
4 biggest factors for poor mileage:
******
Treat it like a car,it's not a Mack truck...
1.Regular oil changes at half the interval requested in the manual.This will add 1-2 mpg better than the average.
Generally every 3000 miles,or 5000km's change filter and oil.
2.Poor fuel quality.
Which is a big factor for diesel fuel.
This uaually yields poor mileage most of the time.
buyer beware****
- Fuel that has been sitting at a station for longer than a month will go stale.
A clue, generally that a station is selling poor quality fuel ,is when the price drops drastically to unload old fuel onto un-witting customers.
Answer..
Shop at a known station that services diesels ,then you know the fuel will be fresh.
Hint**
Try to fill up on a premium diesel fuels.
Although generally 10 cents or more/gallon , comparatively to regular,will yield better mileage results when travelling long distances,or towing.
-Premium has a higher cetane level than regular,
which means at cruising speed the engine works less to keep that speed and this produces better mileage over all,and rebating the savings with better mileage.
Look for these :
BP.premium
Shell diesel ultra
Citgo #2
Sunoco Gold
When these are not available
Fill up at a truck stop on normal #1 diesel.
Also..
2.Generally during the winter monthes
A general suggestion of using fuel additives for diesel fuel when filling up will help average mileage stay higher and increase efficiency of the engine.
Ones preferably will have a cetane improver,and water /wax displacer in it + upper cylinder lubricity formula.
These will have to be added when fueling .
3.Low Tire pressure.Check tire pressures once /2 weeks.
-Keep tire pressure at 35psi.This lowers rolling resistance,which helps mileage.
4.SLOW DOWN !!***Keep Hiway speed under 60 mph***
Use the cruise control when you can.
Your best mileage will be between 45-58mph.
This method keeps your RPM's down under 1900,plus while being 5th gear will help mileage and lower wear and tear on engine.
Good luck ..
**JEEP Diesel... "just imagine a new age of SUV" ***
Speak Soon ..Lightnin3..
There are a lot of mileage posts on this forum. I have yet to get as low as 26 on the highway driving 65 MPH - usually 27 to 32. I have yet to get as high 22 MPH in town - usually around 19. Overall mileage since new is 24.3 MPG, right now - slipping a little in winter.
It sounds like several people perform their own oil changes, but at the dealer what can one expect to pay? So far, mine have been free.