Jeep Liberty Diesel

finbar

Hi everyone. I'm new to the forum and just thought I would throw my hat in the ring. Last Wed, Feb 22, I took delivery on my new Liberty CRD. I was so impressed with recent improvements in diesel engines, like the one that is in my new John Deere tractor, that I looked for a diesel when I decided to buy another vehicle. As you all know, there are not many choices out there, but I'm glad that Jeep is offering one for all of us diesel fans. I placed my order on Dec 5th, so it was almost 3 mos to delivery, but it was worth the wait. I've only gone 700 miles with it so far, but no complaints. I'm getting about 25mpg highway during the break-in. I went easy on it for the first 500 miles, but now I'm planning on driving it to and from work everyday. I hope I can share some things of interest as time goes by.

synlubes

they will rub on hard turns 245-70-16 will work fine

mike6206

Thanks. Shell came out with Rotella Synthetic 5W40 oil and I did look at Mobil's 0W40 lat night. What can you tell me about the 0W40 from Mobil? Any good for the CRD or junk?

bvcrd

Hello, I just picked up an '06 CRD and love it so far. A few questions...What is the boost solenoid filter that they say needs to be checked at each oil change and at what mileage do most drain out the break in oil?

farout

gunshot50: I live in an area that has several CRD certified dealers within a 150 mile range. The cost I paid for my first oil change was $92. US d. Some gave a price higher and the lowest Jeep dealer was $75. which was 150 miles away. Wal-Mart can do the job for about $45. if you trust them. ( I am not I sure I do)
Contrary to others I will stay with Mobile 1 0-40. However. No matter what brand of oil you think is best, I would stick with synthetic oil 0-40. The 0 is where you get the better starts and even fuel mileage. If you think fuel additives help then use them. I personally have found no benefit from these additives, perhaps with only 10,500 miles I dont need them or not able to notice their effect. I differ with some that say to change the oil often. I change my oil every 9,000 miles, until I see the need to change it more often.
I have noticed that there are those who give their CRD
a lot of attention, more than their wife, perhaps. I do not get to deduct or claim this CRD as a dependant at tax time so I will give it only the attention called for in the owners manual. Good Jeeping.

Farout

farout

Hey, mike's totally free jeep news, says the Grand C will get the MB Bluetec diesel for a 2007 1/2. Should be out in less than a year. There is going to be a Wrangler 2.8, but only in Europe for the 2007.

lightnin3

Hi Supertech...
I have noticed a difference in mileage and performance with changing the differential fluids to synthetic as well.
I had gained about a 1 mpg better on average,so I believe every little bit counts.

This was a nice suprise ,since I was getting it done for the warranty service interval.
But also for peace of mind since I do tow periodically.

The 245's you speak of, will fit,but you'll have to grind off the plastic ,and metal ferrings,for the mud flap mounts to get them on.
In my opinion unless your adament about an extra inch of ground clearance,there isn't much difference between 235's and 245's.It just alot less trouble.
If that is the case just get a lift kit,then they'll fit easy.

Speak Soon..
Lightnin3..

lightnin3

Hi Jimmi...
About changing your oil..

You might also want to get a passifier for leverage.

for the wrench.She'll be a little tight at first.

Be careful when taking off the plug ,there is a retainer washer underneath.Treat this like gold as it will help keep the seal from leaks.

And no...you don't have to get a new one every oil change.
I would inspect it to make sure there isn't any gouges in it.If so then change it. It seats against a flat surface so I doubt it'll have to be changed.
Good luck ..
Speak Soon..
Lightnin3..

winter2

I hope you continue to enjoy your CRD as much as I enjoy my own.

To answer your questions.

1. The boost solenoid filter has been mis-labeled. It is actually the vacuum solenoid filter. Look behind the air cleaner air box. You will see a small plastic filter with pleated paper hanging down. That is the filter in question.

2. There is no break-in oil per se. It is the Mobil 1 0W-40 oil. I would watch the level closely for the first five to seven hundred miles. Some people, including myself, experienced some consumption (up to a quart) during this period. I got rid of my initial factory fill at about 1.5K miles. It felt gritty in my fingers. Changed it again at 4.5K miles but to Amsoil 5W-40. I will be changing it again in late April or early May but will go to Amsoil 15W-40 until the November. By then, ULSD will be entrenched and I will go back to the 5W-40 once again. Be sure you change the oil plug gasket with each oil change.

winter2

At my dealer they charge about $70.00. I do it myself.

bvcrd

Thanks for the reply. I am confused about the plug gasket. Some say to replace it, and others say it isn't important if it is still in good shape. Does NAPA carry them?

synlubes

i have changed oil three times same gasket no leaks

jimhemi

I just changed oil and filter after a whopping 762 miles on my new CRD. I spent over $25K for a new Jeep, what's another $30 for oil and a filter. Cheap insurance.

tired_old_dave

Amsoil dealer at the dallas rv show.
15w40 does flow at -51F. With your experience with amsoil, should we really be woried about winter time. It's the warranty that bothers me not winter temps. Do you use amsoil oil filters and are they donaldson's. I saw the donaldson amsoil air filters. Only the one for cummins has an extra foam "prefilter?" The filter is not washed like aem nano fibers but is wiped or vacuumed. How does one get the grimy mess off them. Are you using amsoil air filters?

jimhemi

Seems to be a bit of a controversy with this oil plug washer. I just changed the oil for the first time today. I cleaned the washer and plug with a clean rag and re installed them. If I notice a leak in my garage I will purchase some extra washers from the parts dept. and let all know. Some in here say to change it while others have gone through quite a few qts. and haven't had any problems.
As far as the oil filter I went with the Fram Tough Guard. Has a 99% micron efficiency vs. 96% for some of the leading competitors including the plain orange version that they sell. Tough Guard at Wall Mart only an extra $1.25, again, cheap insurance and piece of mind.. what's left of it anyway. :sick:

mike6206

Thanks for the Oil input. As for fuel additives, the only thing I use is Fuel conditioner with Anti-Gel for the winter. But I have also known from being an ex-School Bus mechanic that regular fuel filter changes also help in keeping water from the system. I remember back in 1996 when we went to the then-new low sulphur fuels, our buses didn't have a lick of gel trouble while our International Truck dealer's parts dept. couldn't keep enough anti-gel on the shelves! Also a good rule of thumb I use, when the weather forecast calls for the temps to go below 10 or 20 degrees, plug the block heater in and use a good outdoor timer so you don't have it running constantly. And also, thanks for the heads-up on the oil plug with the Allen head!

synlubes

they dont make the aa-e nanofiber yet will be coming have sold several for the ford power stroke 99to2003 they take the air from under the fender allfull mess will let you no how the clean up i do use the amsoil oil filter will go to the new nanofiber oil filter next time looks real good but pricey

vtdog

I have an oil plug washer (metal crush washer) on my 93 Volvo with over 125k miles. I only change out the washer when (on rare occasion) it seems very thin in one spot, or splits. I bet in the 13 years I have had the car I have only changed it out 4-5 times.

winter2

I live in the metro Washington D.C. area so it rarely ever gets that cold here. I am using the old formulation of Amsoil's 5W-40 which is/was CI-4+. I intend using the 15W-40 starting in April and running it through November. As to warranty concerns, I have none. If you read the owners manual, it uses the word "recommended" in the statements about oil. The onus falls on DCX to prove that the oil caused engine/component failure. I have spoken to my dealer several times about my intention to use 15W-40 and they have no problem with me using it. They told me that the only time oil is tested is when there is component failure along with sludging of the oil. If you keep all of your records/receipts, including mileage records, then you should be covered. I checked the specs of the 15w-40 against that of Mobil's 0W and 5W 40 oils. They are so close that I see no reason not to use the 15W-40. My wife and I are considering a move to Florida this year, so cold temps will become a non-issue. I do not like Mobil anyway for my own reasons.

At one time did use their foam air filters. I stopped using them because they were a pain the butt to clean and oil. I use K&N air in my wife's Chrysler but use Amsoil oil filters on both. Never had trouble/issues with them in the many years I used them. Unfortunately, Donaldson does not make filters for our CRD. They make filters for the big stuff like Mack, Kenworth, Peterbilt, etc. Amsoil does have a "nanofiber" oil filter that will fit the CRD and I intend to use one when I change oil in April. For now, I am going to stick with the stock paper air filter until I see something specifically designed for the CRD.

I have considered a K&N in the CRD but there have been enough postings that have stated that there is a decrease in fuel economy when using them. I have read this in articles about VW TDI and MB turbo diesels as well as in this forum.

winter2

As far as I know, NAPA does not carry them. As to changing them with each oil change, I prefer to err on the side of caution, but the final choice is yours.

tired_old_dave

Thank you and synlubes. I saw blue Amsoil "donaldson" flat air filters on display at the show-$38. It's the cleaning issue (and I need to research air flow). Put the factory air filter and inlet tube back on this week end think I'm experiencing a turbo lag. Better half will check this out today and if correct will put the mickey mouse plumbing set up back on and maybe with a blue air filter.
Thanks again.

bvcrd

Yea, I'm sort of on the conservative side myself and usually error on the side of caution. I'll grab a few when I get the first oil changed on Wednesday. It will have 600 miles on it then. Another question is where is the oil drain plug. I have peeked under the engine and saw a big skid plate with a large hole in it. Is the plug accessed through this hole? I havn't had it up on ramps yet and was just wondering. Thanks for all your info.

winter2

Go underneath and go to where the transmission and engine connect. Several inches in front of that you will find the plug. It is not the traditional looking plug you find on domestic iron. You will need an 8mm hex/allen wrench to remove it. I suggest that you go to your local car parts store or Sears and find one of these hex ends that is embedded in a 3/8 inch socket. It will take some elbow grease to remove the plug and it does not improve with subsequent oil changes either. The oil filter is just to the right hanging diagonally. That is real easy to remove.

bvcrd

Thanks for the info. Just to add to some of the other posts, we got 24 mpg on our first tank. That was combined city and highway with most highway speeds at 65 mph. I hope that improves some post break-in. I did think of one more question.....I never owned a turbo before. The book says to idle for a specific length of time depending on the previous driving conditions to allow for a turbo cool down. I am finding this to be a bummer to sit for up to 2 minutes before I can shut it off and go in the house. How important is this cool down time?

tired_old_dave

I thought we were immune, but the better half watched the rpm's and the lag this am. It looks like tc lag, like old slushmatics, rpm's but a 1-3 second delay before anything happens. Yes, we have always filled the tc before first drive of the day. This blind sided me - even though there are lots of posts everywhere about the 545 in the crd. Caribou1, anyone in Europe with 40k kilometres reporting problems with the 2005 2.8's?

winter2

I agree with you that it is a pain in the butt to sit there and wait but it is better than having the turbo fail earlier than it should. You really do not want to heat soak that bearing or coke the oil. The latter would definitely be the kiss of death for the turbo.

One of the things I have learned is that I can alter my cool time somewhat depending on the type of driving I do. If I have been on the highway and then get into stop and go driving once I am off of the highway, I take into consideration the amount of time I sit at a light(s) and shorten the cool down time by half or more. The other thing I will do is unload the Jeep after shopping while the engine/turbo is cooling down.

winter2

That is fairly significant turbo lag. I am not experiencing anything like that. Check the hose between the turbo and the intercooler. Make sure the clamps are snug and that there are no leaks in the hose. I would also check the hose from the intercooler to the intake to make sure it is in good order.

whitgallman

the Cummins use a copper flat washer. Probably available at NAPAs.

whitgallman

What brand and model number of tow hooks/bars did you use? did you get a auxiliary brake peddle pusher too? Do the Motorhome place set it up? THANKS!!!

winter2

Sorry, cannot help you here. I do not tow anything save for myself, my wife, and a bunch of cats.

tidester

I do not tow anything save for myself, my wife, and a bunch of cats.

Surely, you mean haul!

tidester, host

eube

Does anyone have info on any new diesel SUVs coming out. Is Jeep going to put a diesel in the Commander? Is the new Ford Everest or long Expedition going to have a diesel? Or, will GM put a diesel back into the 3/4 ton suburban?

The VW Toureg is out of my price range and an Excursion is too massive for my better half to navigate. I've never been that big diesel fan until I heard about bio-diesel and WVO. Now, I'm all about it. I just need something big enough for my family of 5 to travel 1,000 miles to grand ma's house for Christmas, and have enough room to carry most everything. I would love a Commander sized vehicle.

I'm not hugging any trees with bio-diesel, but I like the price of the homemade stuff and the fact I'm not sending money to the Middle East or Venezuela. By the way, those places don't like us, but we keep through money at them and they use it against us.

No more politics, but would love to hear some info if anyone has it.

ergo

The Hummer H3 is reportedly getting a diesel.

Also, the Dodge Nitro (a bigger Liberty) will.

Jeeps upcoming 4 door Wrangler eventually will.

Time will tell for sure (and the EPA 2007 laws). :mad:

dadx3

I know this is a little off topic for this board, but I'm with you on this one. I'm a fan of biodiesel, and I love my Liberty CRD, but being the father of 3, plus the coach of a local ball team, I sometimes need seating for 6 or more, plus all the stuff that goes with them. On these occasions, I'm forced to use my wife's gasser Suburban.

I've heard rumors about future diesels in Jeeps, Suburbans and other SUV's, but nothing has been confirmed. So, here's what we're considering for the interim:
1. A used diesel suburban. I've seen a handful of 98-99 models that are reasonably priced and appear to be in reasonable shape.
2. A Duramax based Chevy conversion van....kind of expensive, but it may be worth it given the limited choices out there.
Hope this helps.

stever

Eube, I think the closest thing we have to a political diesel discussion around here is Hybrids & Diesels: Deals or Duds?.

Steve, Host

supertech

Lightnin3, thanks for the help. That is good news. In the battle for better mileage every little bit helps. As for the tires I,m way to Yankee... I have nice set of 245/75 takes offs from my plow truck, Michelins with 70% tread left just not enough bite for plowing. I was hoping the added diameter would slow the engine RPMS enough to increase mileage I will let you know. I have found billet wheel spacers on line which should help clearance and stability. Still looking (the Yankee again) If it works you can read my bragging here .....John

farout

ergo: The next DCX to get a diesel will be the Grand C, with a MB Bluetec, due out in early 2007 as a 2007 1/2. No plans at this point for a Wrangler 2.8 in the USA, but Eurpoe will see them in the fall. Check it out on mikes totally free jeep news .com

Farout

dzl_lou

Has anyone seen literature for any Supplemental Coolant Additive (SCA)that is within spec for the R428 to help retard cavitation?
The topic of cavitation is increasing my concern for yearly monitoring/maintaining the condition cooling system along with identifying an SCA to include when doing a cooling system flush and fill.

synlubes

245-75-16 tires wont fit they will rub on sharp turns and dips

caribou1

I haven't found many complaints about 2005CRD besides the manual tranny not being top quality and the console not displaying what it should. For shure, the model I have has much less emissions control stuff besides the lonely and blind egr valve. I'm looking into my intake manifold pressure sensor circuitry that could be giving me a hard time to diagnostic erratic power + mileage figures. Now that my egr is disconnected I'm getting better mileage but I believe it could still improve if my pressure sensor is covered with oil fumes that swet through the turbo to intercooler hose. When I changed to Shell Helix Ultra oil this hose became dry for a few weeks and is starting to swet again. In a VW TDI post I read we could put a 180 Ohms resistor across the sensor wires and get better performance. I still need some time and warmer weather to play around with this.

rnabors

235-75-16 works great they give extra height and width plus they do not rub. I went with Alenza's---they are much better than the stock tires.

jimhemi

When you disconected your EGR, do you have any Check engine codes or any other check engine messages?

caribou1

No I don't.
I have a model 2003 and it must have been a prototype series for yours. In fact I haven't found any sensor besides my turbo pressure sensor on the intake manifold.
On yours the emissions controller seems to use an atmospheric pressure gauge before the filter + flowmeter + turbo pressure gauge combined with the egr air control flap and egr position feedback. Mine is a chopper compared to yours

tired_old_dave

Thank you. Does anyone report 30k-40k kilometres on their Euro 2005? I'm now posting at lost also since a Pennsylvania poster (24k miles on his 2005)helped with my noise-loose motor mount nut(a clunk that sounded like a loose caliper). He is waiting for his new torque converter.

Winter2 and I have been avoiding the provent issue. One suggestion mentioned a long time ago was to make the factory stock ccv hose go uphill (to let oil drain back) before going down to the turbo. I believe winter2 is looking at 15w40 to keep the oil in the motor.
Our "pilot" vacuum if disconnected will through a cel.
Thanks for the resistor padding value-I probably won't try it-computer programming. Is your exhaust the same inner diameter from the exhaust manifold back? That is an easy big improvement in highway kpl's and performance.

retmil46 at lost talked about the freightliner ceo telling them the 2007 emission vehicles are better performers than ours because no emissions activity was performed by engine manufacturers thinking that the friendly business party in power would make the current emissions go away. Maybe we should just hang in and buy a new diesel from whomever we like very soon.

We bought a 7yr/100,000 mile extended warranty. Maybe we will give it to the next owner.

farout

However, the 245/70/16 have no problems what so ever. I personally like the ride much better. I have almost 10,600 on mine and never had any rubbing or anything.

Farout

tired_old_dave

Nothing ever fixed itself for me until now but still holding my breath. Right now I'm almost as happy as winter2 and his intercooler hose. As "Dusty" said last year "spurious event". No tranny delay today. Better half did have a fun run home last night.

unclebubba

Hello all,
I can't believe it!! The check engine light has not come on for almost 2000 miles!! The redesigned EGR and EGR Air Flow Control Valve seem to be working well (Yahoo!!)

Seems to be a lot going on here in the two weeks I was on vacation, but not a lot on the EGR problem. Maybe those issues are finally being resolved. This CRD Liberty is really a great little car! Now if only that check engine light would never,ever come on again...!

Just about ready for the second oil change and I will be staying with the Mobil-1 SUV 5W40. Anyone got suggestions as to what the best brand of oil filter might be??? I am leaning towards a Purolator but am curious as to any input you might have. Thanks.

winter2

I am not avoiding the Provent issue, or I do not think I am. If you want to stick a Provent in the supercharging system be my guest. Since VM Motori has been building diesels for a good number of years and have not installed a Provent type device on the engine, then I do not see the need for one. VW had some trouble I believe, but I do not know if they have been making diesels as long as VM Motori. I know that on turbocharged MB diesels they too have oil in the hose from the turbo to the intercooler/engine. It is obviously a normal function to see the oil.

As to the Amsoil 15W-40, again, it specs out so closely to Mobil's 0W-40 and 5W-40 oils, I see no harm in using it. Plus, Amsoil's base stock comes from plants in this hemisphere and not from the middle east.

jkinzel

Can anyone who has been around ULSD tell me if it has a different or milder odor than the junk diesel we use now?

The other day my wife and I did a test drive of a VW Jetta TDI and I loved it. :shades: Today she mentioned that the smell of diesel fuel, ever so slight as it was to her, kind of made her sick. I never smelled a thing, but maybe after 30+ years of working on tugs I would not notice a faint diesel smell.

winter2

You will need to direct this question to the people who live in CA! Any CA people here that can help?