Jeep Liberty Diesel

tired_old_dave

The reason I keep mentioning the provent is that this is our first turbo and our first diesel(and our first jeep and as much as some think I may be flaming or anti jeep they can look up my first post-I expected more pre-production and assembly effort from dc). I defer to posters like you and others elsewhere who have had diesels and turbos before. The one thing that keeps me from a provent is one comment from a post long ago - how do the moving vanes in the vgt get lubricated(if they need it).

Is amsoil base stock(plants in this hemisphere) vegetable based or do you mean they use western hemisphere oil. Old castrol clogged up my lifters (or dissolved crud in the motor from the previous owner)on my new yorker brougham long ago.

winter2

Amsoil is a plant/vegetable based synthetic oil according to what my Amsoil dealer has told me. It is not made from any petroleum as far as I know.

As to the VGT, that little bit of oil that is in the turbo housing where the cold side lives is meant to be a lubricant for the blades.

tomw

Just took delivery of my 2006 CRD a couple of weeks ago (love it so far, except that the Sirius crapped out after 36 hours and two trips to the dealer have not fixed it). :mad:

Driving tonight in 25 degree weather, it seems that only "lukewarm" air comes from the heater, even after driving over one-half an hour (long after the temp gauge indicated that the engine was up to normal temperature).

Has anyone else experienced this?

supertech

unclebubba, thats good news. I think your right. There is much less complaining about EGR issues. I hope, like you this is being resolved. I now have over 13,000 miles on my CRD and 0 problems. Every time I get to drive it I can't help but grin I really like it! :shades: Back to your question on oil filters: I would use only the OEM it is made in Italy for our VM engines. The cross references for aftermarket filters means they screw on, not that they provide the proper filtration or proper internal bypass valve. I'm a very frugal Yankee but I don't try to save the few dollars difference on the oil filter. just my thoughts ...........John

mdamick

My 2005 puts out good heat @ -25 F.
Your heat control may be out of adjustment or maybe the heater hose is kinked.

gunshot50

I think that I am doing a good job with the cool down processes, like others have pointed out, I take the time I sit at lights or in stopped traffic to reduce my overall wait time. Is there any preventative actions I can take to be sure that I have not "heat soaked the bearings" or "coked the oil" I would really hate to find out after I have a failure.

bhcs111

I have an 2005 CRD and the thermostat went out this winter. Mine was doing the same thing luke warm air. My 2005 is one of the first ones off the line in the states. It had about 14,000 miles on it when it went out.

caribou1

Concerning the use of "Pro-Vent" like oil separator, have a look here:
http://www.vmmotori.it/uploads/doc/29.pdf
VM uses oil separators on some engines and you can clearly see how they connect to the sump. On the pictures, the oil separators are located above the starter motor mount. I believe there is already an equivalent system on the CRD, but built differently. It could very well be a selective membrane letting the oil droplets fall back into the engine.

caribou1

About the exhaust:
On all turbo diesel engines the exhaust gasses loose energy (pressure) to spin the turbo and thus need more space (bigger diameter) to provide the equivalent flow at lower pressure. The counter pressure used for tuning the engine is provided by the impedance of the turbo. Once passed the turbo blades the rest is accoustics.

whitgallman

I went to all the Auto parts places and found nobody stocking anything much for these engines yet. Some had an oil filter. I could get a regular Fram, a regular Purolator and a NAPA Gold. The NAPA went on. Are you going to mail order a Pure 1?

whitgallman

If the sickening part is sulfur, obviously it should be less so. Winter2 has a good idea but California diesel(CARB) has reduced aromatics (cyclic ring shaped molecules that give it aroma) too. Eastern diesel will not have it's aromatics reduced much. (some women's perfume makes me kind of sick )

unclebubba

I may have to mail order it. Or go to the the Jeep dealer and get OEM filter. Either way, I'll "git er done"!!

winter2

1. Follow the cool down recommendations in the owners manual.
2. Keep the oil level up where it should be.
3. Change oil according to the "B" (6250 mile) schedule if not a bit more frequently.
4. Drive your CRD, or any turbo car, gently for the first few miles after a cold start. Your turbo will thank you.
5. Use a good quality oil and oil filter.
6. Good fuel always helps.

winter2

As I understand it, when ULSD arrives, most of the aromatic compounds will be gone. They are a major contributor to diesel pollution as the compounds that are formed during the combustion process are pretty nasty and carcinogenic. These aromatics reduce the cetane level of diesel fuel. You want the higher cetane for a cleaner burn and more power.

As to women's perfume, some of it can be quite potent. There are some men's colognes that are pretty bad too.

tired_old_dave

Caribou1, I'm going to defer to winter2 on not adding the additional ccv by provent. Your link reminded me that VM lists the vgt as an option. So like winter2 says, they built the motor (and they supplied the vgt). If there is a problem I'll let the daimler divisions fight it out.

I've wanted a cummins in a dodge for years and even more so after test driving a 2004.5 model. But it makes more sense to have this CRD and an enclosed trailer (better half's idea after her crd test drive). Everything that I have read to date about diesel trucks talks about breathing. My home made cool air and the cheap micro gard filter made by purolator that was bought at o'reillys for $8 when added to the aero-turbine have made one sweet ride, when everything including the fuel is working.

I started this new line because I got tired of "winter2-not turbo lag" in every post.

bvcrd

Just an update... I got back from the dealer after doing my 1st free oil change. The service guy looked at me like I was freaking looney when I told him it had 570 miles on it. Then while I was waiting, the tech came in to get coffee and told me it was the second smartest thing I ever did with buying the CRD a close first. Good to get the little filing out of there quick if I planned on keeping it a long time. Course, with me taking good care of it from the start, I am not making the service dept. or the dealership any extra money now am I? Got 25.4 mpg on the 2nd tank too.

winter2

As a note, VM Motori does not make the turbocharger. It is a Garrett (Car & Driver Sept 2005).

As to not adding the Provent device, do not let my decision not to influence you. If oil in the induction system does become an issue, I will consider adding one. Since MB has been making turbo diesels for years and there are zillions of semis on the road that are turbo diesels, and as far as I know do not have a Provent device in them, I am chosing not to add one. I am sure that they have devised a reliable means of handling this oil. Simple is always good.

jimhemi

I purchased the Fram Double guard. The specs are superior to the Plain version that they sell. Traps 99% yadda yadda technical jargon. The Fram site breaks it down and I know you're a science guy so you'll understand all the stuff that they have up on their site.

P.S. took your recommendation, I put in the Mobil 1 5W-40 full synthetic with a good filter.

jimhemi

I came across this site that had the disclaimer from SEMA with regards to what we add and how the warranty becomes void if at all. Pretty interesting, also good to know.

http://www.ok4wd.com/warranty.asp

jimhemi

Also, saw some posts awhile back about making some usable interior space. Don't know if this is worth the extra cost but for someone like me who is useless with a hammer and 2x4's...

http://www.boulderbars.com/kj_interior_rack.htm

stever

That has flying projectiles written all over it! :surprise:

My minivan came with a shelf sort of like that together with a net that held stuff in place in case of a panic stop. Plus the shelf didn't stick up that high against the rear seat.

I played with it a few times and then junked it, since I rarely had the seat all the way back and the the shelf interfered with putting other stuff in the back.

Steve, Host

tired_old_dave

Not arguing the point, "they supplied" is how I worded it. VM offers a vgt and their sister company,(daimler using the Jeep name) took the option of the vgt.

I wanted confirmation that "maybe" the oil is needed to lubricate the vanes. There are reports of less oil being pushed with the heavier grades. I do not know what happens in the combustion chamber from my dirty 5w40 vs dirty amsoil 15w40 going back through after "lubricating" the vanes. These are not the old days of gm top lube or mystery oil.

moparbad

P.S. took your recommendation, I put in the Mobil 1 5W-40 full synthetic with a good filter.

FRAM is not a good filter.

If you want to buy a good filter and save money, buy a WIX, a NAPA, or a std. Purolator.
If you want a premium oil filter, buy a Purolator PureOne, Mobil 1, or the dealer stocked MOPAR.

rockymtncrd

I bought my CRD in January '06.
I can assure you that the motor will not stink you out...

rockymtncrd

Are any of you CRD owners in the Rocky Mountains or other higher locations and are currently having mis-firing problems...?
Mine seems to be doing it in a specific rpm range in any gear. Any thoughts...?

bvcrd

Nope, Mine lives at 7900' and makes a trip to 10,200 Leadville once a day.Run like a scalded dog.

rockymtncrd

Glad to hear it. I am aware of 6 other owners in and around the Denver metro area that are having exactly the same problem. Are you getting the mileage per gallon you expected...?

rockymtncrd

BVCRD-
Since you live in the neighborhood...
Try this experiment a couple of times for me. When you first get started on the Leadville trek, hold your rpm's at around 1500 to 2000. Does your motor remain steady or does it stutter, hesistate or misfire. Report back to me...? I really enjoy the way my CRD flies up our mountain roads but what I've got going on his really annoying and from what I've found out lately I'm not alone...
Thanks-

whitgallman

I found this oil filter info on www.bobistheoilguy.com
neat site

The one obvious caveat is that even though multiple brands are made by one mfg they can be very diffferent in their construction and materials.

Updated List;

Fram
Fram Extra Guard (std)
Fram Tough Guard (different media?)
Fram X2 (Silicone ADBV, Fuzzy media)
Fram Extended Guard(same as the X2)
Mileguard (Jiffy)
Honda (although some are alleged to be made by Filtech)
Chrysler line up except for the Cummins
Penzoil
Deffense
Canadian Tire

Champion Labs
Bosch
Car and Driver
Deutsch
Mobil 1
STP
SuperTech
K&N
Valvoline filters
Mighty
Service Champ
Lee
AutoZone Value Craft
Some AC Delco
VW (some)
Warner
Luberfiner
Trust

Wix
Carquest blue
Carquest red
Napa Gold
Napa Silver (lower quality with nitrile ADBV)
Kralinator (in Canada)
ALLIANCE (Freightliner aftermarket)

Purolator (Arvin Meritor)
Purolator premium plus (nitrile adbv)
Purolator Pure One (silicone adbv, different media)
Havoline
Maxlife Valvoline (some)
Group7
Promotive
Powerflow
Quaker State (less media)
Advanced Auto Total Grip. (less media)
Pep Boys Pro Line
MotorCraft
Superflo

Clarcor
Baldwin
Hastings
Amsoil
Casite

bvcrd

No, the dealer said that some around here are getting 30 and I am only getting 25.4 with the last tank at 65 mph. People in HELL want ice water too I here.

bvcrd

It holds steady at any speed. At 55-60 mph, I think the thing is turning around 1700 rpm. It sounds like you are having some sort of ignition problem and or a fuel starvation issue.

jimhemi

I'm a die hard Mopar man, own a 71 Charger, brother has a Challenger, father a 70 Charger and my parents drive a Hemi Durango. I would never put on a Mopar oil filter, sorry. Someone in the board mentioned that the Mopar filter is made by Fram? I know it's made in Italy. Anyone know any more on that?

jimhemi

Pricey too. I just thought I'd post it. I know some in here have a need for it. Seemed like a good idea.

tired_old_dave

Something I forgot to follow up on. A local rv dealer was at the show and had 2 FRED's, one of which was immediately bought in the opening hours. I think I remember it being a Gulf Stream, FRont Engine Diesel, from freightliner(daimler) 5.9B Cummins with a VGT. The salesman and his son said they just got them in 2 hours before the show started and were surprised by passing power. I wonder if they lube the vanes.

tired_old_dave

Some old cummins info from an old bookmark.
http://www.cummins.com/na/pages/en/products/dodgeram/cummins24vturbodiesel.cfm
Exhaust and egr info-I'm still learning

caribou1

I think we could live well without the egr system by accepting lower injection pressure and a bit less power at the high end. I practically never hit 3,000 rpm under load, so I'm currently using between 80 and 110 HP.
I tried pushing the engine the same way I used to when the egr valve was there, but there is no more dust or soot blown out and visible in the rear view mirror anymore.

unclebubba

Wow!! Thanks a bunch! Great info to have actually. Especially when someone says OEM is better and you can show them who produces the OEM.

tired_old_dave

I'm still learning but I'll have some fun with this post.
I've haven't followed myself recently or another CRD at wot. They say the brown exhaust is only visible at night because of the headlights from behind.

Maybe, since we can't have the easy fix like you and we don't have a huge intercooler, maybe we should have an a/c expert use a diverter and cycle our a/c and cool our intercooler dropping air temps and condensing oil and vapor out of the flow and keeping it out of the intake and draining it somewhere.

They always talk about a/c compressors using 25hp and that's why little 4 cyl cars were gutless with an a/c and automatic. Work uses hp but I don't notice any effect with the a/c on with all our torque.

farout

Supertech: The oil filters DCX dealers use have marked on the box and the filters made in (the good old) USA. Check it out.

Farout

farout

There is something so much better!You can order the REAR CARGO ORGANIZER from the jeep dealer, or buy a liberty with one in it. When I saw our Liberty on line at the dealer who traded for one at my dealer, I thought is would be a waste of $250. Well we use it all the time! The shelf goes up or down with one hand. The shelf makes into three compartments, and it's grate for so many things. It's even cheaper than your web site shelf.

Farout

farout

If you go to the DCX Jeep parts dept, and ask to look at the CRD oil filter, it says USA, not Italy. I give credit for the Italians making the engine but at least the filter comes from the US.

Farout

farout

The trick is anyone can have a company make a filter for their specfic needs. This does not mean all the filters made by the same company are made equally the same. Any oil filter today is better than the old VW screen filters. (I use the term filter but it really was not a filter) Can any of you remember the old toilet paper oil filter sold on TV. They were a mess and really did not do a very good job. Or there were the old add on filters that the car dealers sold, because they did not come with oil filters.
My grandsons tell me I am as old as dirt, and they might be right. But I am old enough to remember the "good old days" and they were not so good. The times we live today have given us so much to keep our cars and trucks running four to six times longer. For me I like the 0-40 oil, and I prefer to get longer use from synsethic oil, like 8,000 to 9,000 miles. I refuse to spend more in keeping this CRD going than the Owners Manual says to. I am not a schedule B or a schedule A, so I split the difference.

Farout

alljeep

My oil filter for the CRD says "Made In Italy" on the filter and the box it came in - purchased from the parts department of a local Jeep dealership. Maybe they are transitioning over to an American produced one.

anomious

Hi! My "Mopar" oil filter part # 05003558AA is marked "made in Italy" on the box and on the filter.
I bought a case of them on Ebay.

LK :confuse:

jimhemi

I just changed the oil on Sunday and the Factory Mopar Oil Filter had Made in Italy stamped on it. I know I'm not crazy, well not that crazy.

stever

This post (actually the whole discussion) may be of interest:

tsjay, "Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?" #628, 21 Jan 2002 5:34 pm

Steve, Host

finbar

Does anyoone know if a service/technical manual is available for the Liberty? Many years ago I use to get one for each of my GM cars from a company that I think the name was "Helm", but can't find anything for Jeeps on search engines except general "fix you Jeep" manuals. At one time you could get one that showed ever screw and part on the car, and one for just the electrical, and another with all the body specs. I found them helpful for tinkering, and a great addition at the time of re-selling.

P.S. Yes, I am old enough to remember the toilet paper oil filters. Was about the time that we bought "bulk" oil for 15 cents a quart at the Sears & Roebuck store in Mason jars. Ah, the good 'ole days.

tired_old_dave

Sorry for the false lead thinking Cummins could help about lubicating the vanes in a vgt. The Cummins uses the Holset (slide - not vanes) for the freightliner chassis. Somebody mentioned this design before. Only certain applications of a Cummins may use an egr (not the Dodge) per Cummins.

bvcrd

Me too. I preferred the single ply. You didn't have to roll off as much to get it into the jar on my '67 Cheby P/U.

moparbad

The oil filters DCX dealers use have marked on the box and the filters made in (the good old) USA. Check it out.

Farout

Filters at my dealer are labeled Made in Italy.

Friend of mine has a CRD and he purchased a filter from the dealer and I was looking at it and it was for the 3.7. :surprise: