Jeep Liberty Diesel

synlubes

i put one on about a month ago cant tell anny difference yet but it has been cold havent taken a long trip yet it has to help it is strait through and sounds great not noisy at all hard to get a good millage figure because the diesel foams so bad when filling

winter2

RRR...RRR. Cute!!!

Again, I have compared the specs and they are so close in terms pumping ability and flow that it will work just fine.

I want to protect the engine until ULSD is firmly entrenched. As I stated earlier, I do not like Mobil oil products for my own reasons. I have looked at Shell's Rotella and Chevron's Delo synthetics. Shell is hydrotreated/hydrocracked petroleum, thus not a real synthetic like Amsoil, Redline, Chevron or Royal Purple.

Is thicker better or is thinner better? Depends on the application and school of thinking.

Again, based on available specs, they are very close and it is only for summer/warm weather use. When it gets colder, I will change over to the 10W-40 from Amsoil. By that time ULSD should be well entrenched

tired_old_dave

Is chevron delo a true syn like mobil and amsoil? I assume you use amsoil diesel additive. A poster long ago was not protected from egr failure using just power service, stanadyne disclaimed protection from asphatines in texas diesel made from mexican crude. You know i have also used redline and crc. I may have a new egr and maybe I don't. When getting some lines reconnected the tech seemed surprised that anti-freeze came out. Guess what antifreeze almost got mixed with tap water. Grocery stores sell distilled water. All of you with egr replacements, go snooping in back - no one will stop you. Look for coolant recovery systems, distilled water, chat with a friendly tech.

tired_old_dave

Don't you go lost. Retmil46 reports 2-3 mpg hiway. You tend to enjoy the vehicle for some time then remember to drive like you own it not renting it. I'm making changes and trying different stations - can't give a single change report but agree with aero dealer and retmil46 - you'll see the 2-3 hiway everything else staying the same. The benefits may be more than just mileage. Look at my pic and talk to aero-turbine. 12" straight run in front is most critical.

Also most critical is the quality of the install. Measure - disconnect from the flange back, carefully weld and make sure that the lined pipe is removed. The 2 1/2" pipe is necked down to 2" make sure the install removes that problem as reported by retmil46 to lost kjers

tired_old_dave

One more reply. Maybe you should keep this as long as possible. The excitement over the liberator and no 2007 model could mean a pent up desire for liberators thus a high demand for used crd's and we can get our money back. The one area of concern for me, if these are real, is the need for the sfa conversion.

skiduck

Hello CRDers. I was just cruising the web and came across some good websites: www.teraflx.com that has some lift kits/axles for those that want to go up. Also www.jeepworld.com for alot of Mopar accessories and also www.autoaccessory.com had lots of general stuff. I also went to www.allpar.com for a look-up on trouble codes and manuals etc. And lastly I had asked before about some questions about gears in the Libby and came across a website of http:// www.randysringandopinion.com/calculators/calculatorsind.html I hope this helps some of the people looking to individualize their Libby's. I also went to www.4by4connections.com and found some nice products for myself. Now I just need my tax refund to pay for it all.

skiduck

I see that you sell amsoil. What is your opinion on the bypass filter (Ea style) with the oilcharger system. I sounds like a good idea to me though alittle pricy. I posted an question about anyone doing this modification earlier with no response. I realize you are a dealer, but did you do this to your Libby? Thanks for any feedback

jmopper

5.9 durango's did not come with the 545 transmission, ever! Only 4.7's & hemi's, older design engines 5.2 & 5.9 will not match up to the modern bell housing pattern. So I dont see how that applies. Converters don't usally go bad the way you are saying happened to your CRD, maybe the flywheel broke??? Most converters will send bronze bushing or clutch lock up material through the rest of the trans & cause other problems.

synlubes

i haven't done it to my libby but you can go to www.lubedealer .com /herold and go to the home webb site look up the by pass instalations may be pictures

farout

Go to Bio.org! they are the ones that say anything beyond b-20 is not good.

Farout

jimhemi

More on Bio Diesel and our CRDs

http://jeephorizons.com/news/2005kj_biodiesel.html

farout

After some lengthy time and re flashing all the computers twice here is what I think I have found. Because there is no pilot to find exactally what is going on with the computers. I believe that most of the problems are computer related! These engines are NOT a cheap flimsy engine. The transmission is used by the HEMI engines. If one wants to care for and make this trans last way past 100,000 miles then service it every 30,000 miles. My 2002 Dakota had almost 100,000 miles on it with not any problem.
As far as the engine, I will stick with what VM Motori suggests 0-40 syn. oil. I will continue to use Mobile 1. I will keep using non bio fuel as long as I can. I blow out the egr about every 1000 miles. I change the oil every 9,000 miles. I think it's best to drive it and keep out of the shops, avoid additives, and when you go for service find a dealer that has serviced CRD's, not just a couple.
My CRD Sport was made June 14 2005. Maybe that was a good build date, who knows?

Farout

farout

This article was written in 2004! In fact it states that the CRD would be in the 2004 Liberty's Again this says only b-5. If anyone wants to try and run their CRD with gas from re fried beans that's fine with me. I personally will try to avoid and bio fuel until I have to. And if and when I will try to keep it down to b-5 as long as I can. The best thing is that as long as no one else is paying for my CRD I can do as I think best, and so can anyone else, we live in the land of the free! Freedom isn't cheap, ask a Vet!

Farout

jimhemi

What is blowing the EGR out?

moparbad

06 Jeep Liberty Limited

lightnin3

Hey Farout !
I always thought great minds think alike....

I never thought of that...
What a great idea....change your tranny filter and fluid,regularly...Hmmm...do they make Synthetic tranny fluid too?
I also have great faith in the 0W40 as well,
I'll leave that oil change for 10,000 mile mark at the dealer...
but if you can get 5W40 Mobile 1 for $29 for a 4 quart bottle WHY NOT !!
and wix filters at NAPA for $7
Hey I am just EXSTATIC !!..
Speak Soon ...
Lightnin3...

synlubes

synthetic tranny fluid good for one hundred thousand miles between changes on my fourth car with it works great thats what is in my libby now

lightnin3

Hey Synlubes...
What brand of Synthetic tranny fluid do you use?
and what grade??
Speak Soon..
Lightnin3..

synlubes

amsoil go to www.lubedealer.co/herold and look up the speck you can by at perrferrd customer pricing

hermit

yep, went with factory plate, did not know there were other choices available. saved the link tho so I can change later if needed. thanks for the info

jkinzel

link title

Host, please forgive the off-topic, but this has got to be a kick. And great milage I imagine.

stever

Check out the Mercedes-Benz F400 - all four wheels carve. :-)

VW is thinking about a high mpg 3 wheeler for commuters, but it doesn't carve (link). But it might come with a TDI bio-diesel option (lame attempt to be topical, LOL).

Steve, Host

martyz

Same thing happens with mine, but only in hot weather, or if I fill too fast. I'd assumed there was some kind of "overfill valve" - either on the top of the tank or as part of the filler. Does that make any sense? I'm really just guessing...

winter2

I used their gasoline when they were still in Gaithersburg some years ago. Was good stuff at a competitive price.

When I get up there, as I do from time to time, I will give their fuel a try.

Thanks for this tidbit.

mdamick

The basic issue is that I have had 2 Chrysler products that have had premature transmission failures. The difference in the driveability of both vehicles after repair was quite noticeable. I think that they need to look at the initial build issues.

As to the CRD, they replaced the torque converter, input shaft, pump and A/C condeser/transmission cooler. They also cleaned all the stuff that came out of the torque converter when it failed. This is per the "bill" that I got when I picked it up.

winter2

Curiosity question. Did you ever check the color of the trans fluid? What about the odor? Did it smell weird or burned?

mdamick

When it croaked I did check level. No burnt color or smell.
It looked totally normal.

winter2

Thanks. That is weird. Most trans I have seen come apart have a burned smell and the fluid is darkened.

new2diesel

Farout, How are you blowing out the EGR every 1000 miles?

new2diesel

In Oct I bought an 05 CRD with a late july build date. SO far so good other than a high pitch squeel when the motor cools down in the driveway (I'm guessing a pulley wheel). I have to admit I think Jeep screwed up by not putting crossbars on their roof rack system. I have hundreds of dollars of Thule rack pieces and have used my old mounts to mount to the existing Libby rails. The problem is it howls like a stuck pig at anything over 40 mph! I looked up on the Thule website what they recommend and the feet alone are $140 (Crossroad 450). Before I invest in this has anyone using Thule attachments come up with a better solution? Better being cheaper and quiter? Also has anyone used the Thule 450 mounts and are they quiet? Maybe a wind fairing on the front of the rack would quiet it down? All help wis appreciated.

Thanks

winter2

Saw your question. Learned this trick from Caribou1 in France. He posts here from time to time.

1. Make sure the engine is thoroughly warmed up.
2. Lock out the overdrive by pressing the button on the side of the gear selector.
3. From a stop (or near stop) mash the accelerator holding it to the floor until you reach about sixty mph. Hold there for about ten to fifteen seconds.
4. Repeat number three (3) until no smoke comes out of the exhaust. May take two or three cycles.

This also de-carbons the combustion chamber.

winter2

You should have NO squeal whatsoever when cooling down. Get that looked into.

As for the crossbars on the roof rack, it is a fuel economy thing. No matter how aerodynamically they design them, they will produce some noise but worse produce enough drag to impact negatively on fuel economy. Your idea of using a fairing is probably the best way to deal with this issue.

farout

Is it not amazing what a person can come up with if they read the owners manual? Wallies World has 5-40 Mobile 1, 5qt for less than $21. and the From filter for less than $5. I had to get my hands dirty, as the Navy thought me, allays let someone else do the dirty work. I know as I was low man on the totem pole for a good while.

Farout

farout

When you feel a little jerking, drop down to 2nd gear, then take ithe rpms up to 4500, stay ther for 2 min. and put it back in drive. This is not my idea, I got it off this site about three months ago. So whoever told us about it Thanks.

Farout

caribou1

This may sound silly to a few readers, but when the egr valve sticks or doesn't close completely or doesn't respond quickly, keeping the revs up high or accelerating from 0-60 with the pedal down to the floor helps bring the valve back on it's seat. This shakes and moves everything back into the original position.
Since I've disconnected mine I have a new truck that shifts according to my toe (just like when it was new). And the low sulfur diesel didn't help me with this one :lemon:

new2diesel

I agree about the squeel but it is intermitten. It will be hard to reproduce for the dealer because it usually only lasts 1-2 minutes after I drive home from work and am letting :shades: the deisel cool down. It is very high pitched but doesn't sound threatening. Has anyone else experienced this? I purposely bought the 05 over the 06 for the 70,000 mile warranty. I figure I will drive it until it gets worse or breaks. I have this oversion to letting a dealer experiement on a new car fresh from the factory. I believe a virgin engine is always better than one that has been worked on. I don't mind them working on a belt or pulley, but breaking into the motor or turbo to chase hunches isn't what I want to see happen. At least when it breaks they will know exactly what to fix.

farout

I took your word and it has worked for me this EGR blow thing. Has your fuel mpg increased after you disconnected yours. Thanks for your responce.

Farout

whitgallman

Hey Caribou1, I got 7.17 ltrs per 100 km coming back from Dad's today. (From truckstop at top of King's mountain to Exit 33 on I-85)

dfw2

I don't remember the part numbers, but I installed a thule rack, using the conventional square cross bars. If I had to do it all over again I would have gotten aerodynamic shaped cross bars. Anyway, the rack howled at speed so I installed the Thule fairing and that reduced the noise significantly. I recently added Thule ski racks and the noise has increased, but no where near the level with racks alone and no fairing.

supertech

I purchased the thule cross bars for my 05 CRD. They made so much noise I returned them. I paid over $140.00 for them and thought spending that much they wouldn't howl I was wrong. Looked at the Jeeps cross bars They are less money and more aero dynamic but look weak er. I need to carrie daughters' racing scull safely so I'm still looking

vtdog

Size does matter? I have the thule racks, but got them in the longer size (58 inch?) instead of the standard as I wanted it for carrying a canoe. When empty, the rack does make wind noise, but has never squealed. Maybe the extra length quiets the air flow.

caribou1

My fuel consumption went immediately down by a bit more than 10%. It's in the combined behaviour of the engine and transmision that I feel the difference. I would recommend to clean this valve on a regular basis because the engine is powerfull enough to compensate the loss of efficiency.
Typically at 60 mph the engine makes a woodpecker sound (happy diesel sound) without the egr valve. Try it

pttrillium

The Schedule B maintenance schedule indicates checking the boost solenoid intake filter. My dealer didn't do it, claims not to have it on his schedule of things to do and the service writer was just clueless. I pointed it out in the owner's manual and he said they'd get back to me which hasn't happened yet (I had an oil change/transaxle change last week...they left oil all over the place on top of the engine, on the inside of my door and didn't bother to look at the filty air filter. When I came back and bought an air filter, the service writer asked to keep the old air filter so he could go back at the mechanics... this was a really sloppy job at a place that has been usually really good).

Anyway, does anybody know what or where this intake is so I can look at it myself??

The service booklet doesn't list it but the owner's manual does as a service item every 6250 miles. :confuse:

caribou1

I have a filter that lets air into the egr valve actuator when the vacuum is closed by the electrovalve. This looks like a small inline fuel filter and has a white fanfold paper filter you can see through it's plastic housing. It should be 1.5" long and 1" in diameter. This filter cleans the air that goes back into the chamber where the vacuum was before and avoids particles or insects to be sucked into the system :surprise:
Go to post #3957, the filter is just below my "road-side fix" of the solenoid valve

winter2

That little guy is the filter to the vacuum solenoid. I ordered one from the dealer, cost $12.00. The one on my CRD looks a little dirty and has a spot of fuzzy white mold growing on one of the pleats.

siberia

I believe there is misinformation flying around about EGR valves and how to keep them working properly. I also believe that repetition is providing the basis for belief and the assumption of fact.

I do not subscribe to the almost insane notion that a CRD engine should be run at 4500 RPM for any length of time, much less 2 to 4 minutes. I don’t understand why this elixir is being bought into so enthusiastically. If in fact this works, and I don’t believe it does, you can get more EGR flow at 3800 RPM and full throttle than at 4500 RPM.

EGR flow as a percent of total flow is much higher at low RPM than at high RPM. I can find no evidence that a diesel EGR valve must seat like in a gasoline engine. Fact – at low RPM and low load there are more NOs being created because of excess oxygen. The higher the load and RPM, the less excess oxygen exists and the less – as a percent – EGR flow is needed to reduce NOs. Fact – at high RPM boost pressure can exceed turbine pressure requiring the throttle control valve to close until about 6% of flow is EG. At low rpm the EG can be as high as 30% since turbine pressure exceeds boost pressure and more EG is needed.

I have driven my engine easy for over 17k miles with no EGR problem and I am getting excellent mileage. If I eventually do have an EGR valve problem it will be because the thing just failed not because I did not run the crap out of my engine. Your engines are more important than your EGR valves!

sailormon

I agree, don't run into the red. However, just the other day my wife mentioned that we had dropped from the mid 20's to the teens and down to 22 on the highway. This is a 10 mpg drop highway. I went to ft. myers, ran her up quickly a few times, hanging into the safe rpm zone out of overdrive, put her into overdrive and got back into the 30's again for the remainder of the trip. For those who may know, is there any lines that can be pinched, wires disconected or spells to be cast that can disconnect the egr? Reverse it prior to taking into service. I drive an 06 and love the car, great mileage and all. Hopefully the egr prob will go away with new fuels. Happy sailing. BR

anomious

Hi! In the Mercedes diesel "cult" of which I was a member for many years, we performed what was called an "Italian tuneup" We would warm up the engine and take it up to the redline for about a minute or more. This did wonderful things for the engine. We did this every two weeks, Having 1/2 million miles on the engine, I doubt that we caused any damage. I will continue to do this but I will not excede the redline.
Cheers! LK

caribou1

Rince your filter with a conterflow of ethanol then dry it by succion. A small aquarium pump or a vacuum cleaner can do. If this filter blocks, then the egr can't come back rapidly. If you live close to the ocean this can be an issue because of saline mist and pollen. A better option would be to close the valve using vacuum instead of the spring alone pulling the air back into the actuator through this little filter.
Here is how Renault recommends to clean their valves(in french): http://www.auto-evasion.com/forums/download.php?id=5955

siberia

Hi Anomious,

Does your Mercedes diesel have and aluminum head?

I ran my CRD very hard one day when I had a boost gauge attached to find out the maximum turbo boost. It did nothing for the engine that I could tell.

With a diesel, lean means cool and rich means heat. High throttle and high RPM is a rich fuel condition. Maybe the wonder in you engine was temporary and due to warming up the cylinders real good.