Jeep Liberty Diesel

skiduck

Thanks siberia, I went to the dealer today for some undercoating etc. and asked them to check out the "shudder" and they said it had no codes. I already knew that but they checked anyway. I think that Direct Current would not have as much induced field as A\C current, but it sounds good so maybe. The question is where is it happening at in the wiring harness???

skiduck

The proper term for what your engine is doing(building up carbon) is "wetstacking" and is bad for the valves but fixed by putting the engine under a load for an amount of time to increase the temp. Hope this helps you. I have to go for now, a "big" snowstorm is coming here tomorrow (6-12 inches) LOL Good night.

synlubes

mine had the shudder to about six thousand miles then stopped have ten thousand miles now and no problem haven replaced egr valve yet

farout

Has anyone tried to plug the line like posted in pictures from our neighbor from France sent us? I am seriously considering it, but would rather learn from others experience. It looks like you have to remove the air cleaner, is this much of a job? Thanks for the information.

Farout (and getting even more farout)

anomious

Hi! Looks like it's behind the air cleaner near the hood strut. Right out in the open, i'm going to clamp the hose shut for a test.
Good luck! LK

anomious

Hi! I have been buying B-100 in 5 gal. metal safety cans. I then pour it into one gal. milk jugs so it will be easier to measure and pour into the Jeep. I poured a jug full last week but did not use it until this week. The outside of the jug got sticky and wet. I'm glad that I bought the metal safety cans, the plastic gas cans might also be affected by the fuel.

Thrills! LK :surprise:

siberia

Of course, you are right Skiduck about induction and direct current. One way you can get induction from direct current is with a series of high frequency pulses which you could have with a fuel system that has 3 or 4 pulses with each power cycle. There are a lot of different sensors on this vehicle sending pulses, but it is kind of a stretch, isn’t it? I even entertained the idea of a standing wave being set up between the exhaust thru the EGR valve and the intake at a precise load and RPM but that is even more “Farout”.

Unclebubba writes,

Since the dealer replaced the EGR valve with the redesigned one and replacing the broken "EGR air control flow valve"(also redesigned!!), the shudder I used to experience after a high rev run, such as passing, has gone away!!

If replacing these 2 components cures the “shudder” then all other guesses are rendered moot. I trust Unclebubba to let is know if the "shudder" returns.

My incidence of 20 seconds total "jerking" over 17k miles is of no consequence, but it is a fascinating problem to speculate about given all the potential causes.

My belief is that the jerking is caused by interruptions in the fuel flow caused by a cyclical misread or miscalculation by the ECU which is known to interrupt the data stream periodically. It seems reasonable that the source of the misread could be some faulty EGR valves.

gunshot50

unclebubba,

I had the same problem, knowing many of the egr issues that I have read about, I pushed the dealer to keep looking when my MIL came on right after they replaced the EGR, they replaced an air control actuator valve that was sticking, 1000 miles later, I have not head any MIL problems.

siberia

This is starting to look like proof, Gunshot50.

gerbs

When you buy the B-100 how much do you pay per gallon?
When you mix it, what is the percent? 5% 20%

anomious

Hi! The first time that I bought B-100 at Taylorsville Shell in Maryland, it cost around $2.65 a gallon. After the hurricane flooded "nawlins" it went up th $3.76 a gallon. I didn't know that soy beans came from LA. I have used as much as 20%, After seeing what Bio did to the milk jug, i'm cutting back to a maximum of 10%. The engine runs smoother and quieter even at 5%.
Cheers! LK

gs_soares

Tier 2 Bin 10 = Euro 3 or 4 standards????HELP

I am trying to buy a CRD Liberty for europe. Right now the country that I am going to is a EURO 3 standard til Dec 31 2006.

The Jeeps are alot cheaper here and I would like to take one along. Thans Gabriel

gs_soares

Tier 2 Bin 10 = Euro 3 or 4 standards????HELP

I am trying to buy a CRD Liberty for europe. Right now the country that I am going to is a EURO 3 standard til Dec 31 2006.

The Jeeps are alot cheaper here and I would like to take one along. Thans Gabriel

dzlmyster

I was looking at that CD manual on E-bay as well. Does anyone already have a copy, and if so, is this a good deal? I have to add exchange rate (CDN) and additional shipping costs. Does it cover the 2.8 engine well enough? As a point for readers could I suggest members list their year of manufacture when posting. I have the 2006 Limited model and am presently at 3700km, with no problems. The ESP makes life interesting in heavy snow and is more of a hinderance than anything else. I am still learning how to use it..or not. My previous ride was VW Golf 2002 TDI. I chose the Liberty CRD as a reasonable compromise for room, economy, power and overall usefullness. So far I'm not disappointed.

Thanks

farsell

I have been buying B-5 for $2.49 a gallon at Rosemont Service Station on Rosemont Ave in Frederick, MD. It is right near the Sheetz station.

farout

Well I hope you return with super good results! Let me know.

Farout

skiduck

I have just bought my 05 limited loaded for $25.2k(us) and a 5yr 100k $100 ded. for another $1500 in Baltimore Md. The dealer told me that DC is giving out some good bonuses on the 05 just to get rid of them. When I passed by the Port of Baltimore to pick it up there were hundreds of Jeep Libbys sitting out there, either coming or going I don't know. I hope this helps anybody looking to adopted one of the last 05 Libbys and give her a good home. Also the weather man is calling for the first good snow of the year for Wash DC metro area so maybe I can have some fun tomorrow!

skiduck

I believe it is B-10 at rosemont station and about a month ago it was regular petro. I have been buying diesel there off and on for 5yrs and never had a problem and they have the small nozzle pump. If anybody knows why DC put the small opening on these please tell me. I wonder how hard it would be to have a large hole opening put in or modify what is there. Some fuel stations do not have the low-flow pumps with the small nozzles. Are you listening TOLEDO?

skiduck

I have also bought B-100 in approved plastic fuel cans and never had a problem with it. I think plastic milk jugs are poly-olefin versus poly-ethelene. Remember that Gasoline is a good solvent also. You should never put fuel in an unapproved gas can (milk jugs, glass etc.) It is unsafe and illegal. Not to preach, just to be safe. When ever I have bought B-100,I also mixed it to around 20% bio-80%petro and it worked out fine. I think I mentioned it earlier about Maryland having a 50% rebate on fuel when you buy bio-diesel. Look at the website of www.biodiesel.org and find your state specifics. It even has some participating fuel station locations. When I used bio for the first time and ran a few tanks thru my 01 powerstroke, when i changed the filter it was gunked up with some kind of black sludge even though have normally used PS additive. But anyway the plastic FUEL cans have worked well even when I have stored the bio for a few weeks. -*|||||||*-
Libby
Oh yeah you can "cut" B-100 for winter time use with 30% kerosene and it works fine in everything but extreme cold. B-100 has a cold "pourpoint" of about 32F and only about a 6 month shelf life where petro diesel will keep about 1 year before you have to put some additives in it to extend its storage shelf life. THINK SNOW!

skiduck

Hello winter2. Can you put your chart into laymen's terms for me. I don't understand what all the numbers on the left side column mean? Thanks for your homework on the subject.

skiduck

Hello again winter2. The station that I bought b-100 from is on the corner of route 26 and route 27 in Taylorsville MD which is north of Mount Airy on route 27. When I went buy last week all the pumps were roped off and the place was closed so I don't know what happened. My experiences with bio have been ok. I think my fuel mileage is the same or a little worse but the engine runs quieter with less smoke and less smell from fumes. The other good part is that it doesn't have that diesel "stink" that gets into your clothes even if you don't spill it on yourself. If you get a receipt for gallons bought you should be able to calculate how much pure biodiesel you used and after you have enough ($200 us) worth you can send it into Maryland Soybean Growers rebate for a %50 refund. I recently received my first check. I will try to post a phone number to call for more info if you want some.

skiduck

Try not to run your A/C until your engine has warmed up so the oil in your compressor is warmed up too from the waste heat of your engine. Freon refrigerant does weird things like flowing backwards and not changing state from liquid to a gas when it is supposed to if it doesn't have the right amount of heat at he evaporator. On most vehicles the heat from the heater core is routed into your A/C even in the summer time to keep enough of a heat load on your system to make it run properly. I still think disconnecting the electric fan and maybe placing a small piece of cardboard in front of your now disconnected fan is the way to go when your weather turns extremely cold(-10F) or lower. Also I am going to look into a hotter t-stat say 200F than the stock 180F. Diesels run better when they have more heat and higher compression. I can't change the latter but I can easily change the T-stat and you should get better heat out of your Libby's heater as an extra bonus along with more horsepower. Keep the rubber side down. Good luck.

skiduck

Maybe the reason that boat launches have bio is that even if you spill it (b-100) it will degrade in 2 weeks and if it is a mix (b-10) then it should decompose in about 4 weeks. I don't know how long straight petro takes to rot away?

skiduck

An aftermarket company called Mr.Gasket makes an oil filter re-routed system and so does Amsoil with some adapters for the oil filter screw on factory mount that can move the filter out of harms way. I have factory skid plates on my 05 limited and they do a decent job of protecting that oil filter that is hanging way out there. When I install my amsoil bypass filter kit back further on the frame, I will post some pixs. Hope this helps and I will try to find a part number off of my skid plate when I do.

whitgallman

2 or 3 already have the CD. Ask Tired-Old-Dave who energized me to it. (Gallman's build date 8/05). Previous diesels 1979 Chev C-10 w/ 5.7 Olds. 1963 Mercedes 190Dc, 1985 Cadi w/4.3 Olds, currently 1990 Cummins powered Ram Dodge and this CRD. Also have worked w/big diesels Enterprise DSRV 16-4, Nordberg FS1316HSC and EMD 645E-4. To me the CRD only disappoints in roominess (I could eat less).

whitgallman

Can I try it, Skiduck?
ASTM D445 (at 100C and 40C)100C for SAE 40 oils is 12.5 cSt to 16.5cSt. SAE 30 goes 9.5(?) up to 12.5cSt.

ASTM D2270 Viscosity Index is calculated from ASTM D445 viscosities. Regular mineral oil is 95 to 100. PAO can be 138 by itself. Anything above that has viscosity index improvers. VIIs can add Extreme Pressure properties.

ASTM D2602 Hydrolytic Stability of oil (beverage bottle method) Non-PAO synthetics are sensitive to moisture and can degrade w/ moisture. When you go through a testing lab like SwRI you see old Coke bottles, 6.5 oz size. Makes a nice pressure vessel to do this test in.

ASTM D97 is pour point in Deg. C
ASTM D92 is flash point in Deg. C

ASTM D4172B (Shell) "4 ball" test. 3 balls in cup w/ the oil, one chucked in like a drill press, spins and pressed into other three. After certain load and time, you measure the scar size. Another part of the test measures load until the balls are welded. Most all modern oils with modern VI improvers can make 800# max test load w/o welding.

ASTM D5800 Evaporation Loss (%). If there are a lot of lighter volitiles more evaporates.

ASTM D4683 High Temp/High Shear at 150C. Oils with High VI using VIIs will have an apparent dynamic viscosity that is different from the kinematic viscosity. 2 nested truncated cones, adjustable space between them like bearing oil film thickness (like a 2 dixie cups stacked) have oil between them. Viscosity is measured by drag/torque used. Seems like Mercedes has a minimum spec-ed in 229.3.

TBN is measure of base (grams of KOH) in oil by titrating with an acid. This is the measure of the overbase chemicals. Usually you balance the amount of TBN to fuel sulfur. These bases are usually calcium sulphonate which when it is burned in the combustion chamber does not go out the exhaust but forms combustion chamber deposits. Caterpillar allows TBN 5 oils for fuel sulfur below 500ppm.

(this is off the top of my head, so don't hold me to the details. You can ask oil mfg's for the numbers not shown. For Mobil, E-mail "tsc.americas@exxonmobil.com")

ttandjj

Just wanted to defend the OEM tires a bit. Everyone has their opinion on tires. Here is mine. Recently, had about a foot of snow. Drove about 100 miles. OEM tires have over 10,000 miles on them. Didn't have one lick of a problem. The OEM tires worked out just fine. Actually, was pulling away from traffic at some points during my drive. Happy trail busting. The T.

jimhemi

Whitgall, I guess with all of the postings mine got lost in the shuffle. What is your opinion on Lucus Oil treatment?

unclebubba

Hi caribou,

It seems that we do share the same type of info/problems. The CRD is running rather spectacularly these past couple of weeks. Of course that is subject to change, is it not!?
Saw an add by GM here today touting their leadership in Ethanol powered vehicles. This was news to me! I have always wondered at the insanity of not utilizing a source of renewable energy such as ethanol. I read somewhere that the first fuel that Mr. Diesel used for his engine was peanut oil?! So now that we have diminishing dino oil supplies, perhaps we'll move into an era of renewable resource fuels. That would be reassuring.

farout

It's to late for you, but so others might know I am putting this note in. Your dealer can get you a interest free three yeas service contract, 100,000 miles max care 5 years $0. ded. for $1540. and payments of $42.50. These are rarely mentioned as the dealer does not get a cent until you make your last payment. This also means if you do not put it in the car contract you won't pay the interest as you do on the car contract.
I looked at the DC build out schedule and it does not mention the CRD's for either 06 or 07, nor does it show the Wrangler 4 door, or the Dodge Nitro. With the lack of CRD's in my area compared to last year, either they are selling fast or not near as many are being made. Anyone know how many CRD's are planned for 06?

Farout

caribou1

Hi unclebubba,
We are just a $20 gasket kit away from renewable resource fuels! Never forget that
I'm now testing my truck w/o the egr in a systematic way.
- ESSO sulfer free diesel with K&N (only during winter)
- Same fuel with the stock panel filter (next two weeks)
Winter mileage came back to normal, pulls real hard and the shifting is perfect. I guess I had a lot of soot in there because it's going faster from day to day :confuse:
I have to put it into 4WD/Full time if I need to accelerate fast otherwise I leave rubber on the road. It used to be like that when it was new, but with time the clogged egr made me loose power in the low rpms.
In normal driving without O/D, I can now stay in 5th gear at 1750 rpm without shifting into 4th. It's difficult to stay in 5th slower because I'm too close to the "0" of the throttle (pedal) potentiometer and the gearbox is programmed to downshift at 1700 rpm.
I read somewhere that there will be a new tranny coming to the NA market: the 462. I happen to have mine labeled 462 instead of 545-RFE, which is another surprise! Anyways, it's a fine tranny. I rate it ***** :shades:

winter2

I called them for exact directions and asked them about the blend. It is B5 and not B10.

caribou1

I've just changed my engine oil to Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40.
After two weeks my turbo to intercooler hose is getting dry, it doesnt swet anymore! Perhaps some of you out there may have sensor problems related to oil additives diffusing in the ducts :confuse:

farout

That might be a possibility, if they they had B-100. However the fuel is B-5. I have yet to use any bio fuel except for what the factory put in. After talking with the tec from Toledo who told me to not use Bio fuel unless it was the only fuel I could get, I really am not too excited about using it. In fact the 05 CRD's do not say anything about using bio fuel in the owners manual, the 06 does. I was told the Bio fuel lacks consistent quality from plant to plant.
I noticed you mix your own, and I think you said it does not get the same fule MPG. I would think that's a lot of work for what? I personally don't have the physical energy to do all that. My belief is if this small diesel engine needs all this extra additives, and mixing fuels, and changing stuff and it does not make it cheaper to use or more horse power, than it just seems rather fruitless.
I blow out the EGR about once a week, and check the oil and add windshield wash, and it keeps trucking along. I have had no engine problems and I have 10,400 miles on it. I am pretty easy on it and being retired I am only in a hurry when it's getting close for time to eat.

Farout

caribou1

Hi Gabriel,
If you can, buy a Euro3 instead of the Euro4 that has all the problems you can read here.
Mine is a 2003 European type and has very little to worry about :shades:
I would even recommend a friend to get a second hand one and stay away from dealerships and pseudo-warranty issues.

farout

Caribou1: Is plugging the hose you show in you expert pictures (wow they are super), is that all you did to improve mileage? Is your CRD a 2 04 4 valve per cyclender. When I talked wit the Tec from Toledo he said the 0 - 40 oil was what gets the better mpg. have you found this to be the case? How many Kilometers do you have on your CRD now. Thanks four help, I really appreciate you input in the forum. Farout

farout

skiduck: Someone said to look at www.biodiesel.org and I did. Under "2004 Handling and use guidelines" It is more than clear that use of more than B-20 is at this time not recommended. Some of the reasons are pretty important and one should become aware of these problems before attempting to use higher percentages of bio diesel. In fact the note further stated that B-5 is the only fuel tested that does not gel or gum up or eat up man made materials.
Because this article is a serious attempt to encourage the use of Bio fuel, I doubt they would discourage use of higher than B-20 and say b-5 is the better choice if there were not some serious issues yet to be solved. Good Luck.

Farout

whitgallman

Sorry jimhemi, not much experience on additives. I'm kind of chicken to put anything in the oil, especially in synthetic, because the additives interact with each other so intricately that anything added can muck it up.

I have put some MolyKote Z powder in the differential gear oil. Bio-Bor JF in the fuel, a biocide and lubricity additive.

tired_old_dave

Diesel Inferno, good luck and best wishes. You deserve a good T & C from dc.

tired_old_dave

Yes I too am an old fart. Think about the time of your birth and the lack of fuel. Maybe gm was asked to prepare. The next truck I buy, if I get to, with be gm ethanol. A low supply of midwest oil can be diluted and provide a fuel supply other than from the old coal process.
It may not have been a halliburton thing but a pearl harbor thing.

shizzznit

I believe that the use of FREON as an automotive
refrigerant was banned since approximately the mid 90's by the EPA under section 609 of the Clean Air Act.

jimhemi

Ok thanks. You are the expert. An open question to all, how do you find out the build date on your Jeep?

anomious

Hi! See your dealer! For $40.00 he will tell you the build date of your Jeep!

Good luck! LK

P. S. Check the driver's door jamb sticker. The month and year are near the top in large print. The number in the lower left corner is (the month,day,hour) of it's build.

fenris2

"When I used bio for the first time and ran a few tanks thru my 01 powerstroke, when i changed the filter it was gunked up with some kind of black sludge "

About 99% that was biodiesel cleaning out your fuel system. Its prety well documented that you want to watch fuel filters for a while after doing the switch for this very reason.

FWIW as someone who is seriously reserchign BD for my next vehical..

1) Watch the fuel filters when first converting - just what was said above

2) Watch fuel pump pressure. BD is more dense then standard diesel, so marginal pressure on dino diesel can be a bad (and maybe expensive) thing with BioD

3) You can watch for fuel line corrosion but most ppl seem to say that anything made after the early/mid ninties is going to be okay. If not, get upgraded fuel lines.

4) High iodine value BD will stay liquid at lower temps than low Iodine value BD. But, the higher the iodine the more chances for reverse polymerization to occur (crud build up in injetors, etc). To reduce chances/unset of buildup use synthetic oil. Lest that scare people off, we are likely talking about occuring over very long time frames here and VW now warranties it cars (at least in Germany) for 100% BD use afaik.
FWIW a lot of US BD is soy based, which is high Iodine. In Europe BD is frequenlty Rapeseed based which is somewhat lower Iodine

knockout18

I'm in the final stages of negotiating a new 06 CRD Sport.

The dealer has agreed to trade in the factory tires for something different.

Does anyone have any suggestions on brands or specific model types of tires and various sizes.
I'm not sure of the advantages / disadvantages of the various brands or sizes.
Any extra info would be appreciated.

I'm going to stick with 16 inch rims.
I've got some highway driving in my daily commute.

Does anyone recommend getting additional winter tires and rims.

thanks

anomious

Hi! I went with Bridgestone REVO tires, 245-70-16. They have great wet traction. We had over a foot of snow this weekend. I had a ball! Tire Rack.com has a comparison chart, check it out.

Best of luck! LK

caribou1

Hi farout,
Yes, the vacuum plug is the only modification I have made.
I have the same engine you have but it has less emission control stuff. I have a bit more than 65,000 Km now.

whitgallman

This web site had the list of Mercedes Benz/Daimler Chrysler 229.3 spec oils that the CRD calls for.
http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

jimhemi

BF Goodwrich, All Terrain KO. You can fit the 235/70/16 with no problem. They are awesome. Thick side wall, nice ride. The best if you decide you want to try your hand at off roading. Tirerack.com is the cheapest place around, usually you can get them in 2 days. While at the Tirerack, read some user reviews and you'll hear what's best and worst about every tire.

jkinzel

Off topic a little.

I was looking on Vehix.com and noticed all the VW TDI’s listed as gasoline engines and the Jeep Liberty 2.8L listed as a gasoline and manual transmission. I was looking in the Seattle, Tacoma, WA area. What part of the listing is incorrect/correct?

Just for poops and giggles, if you have time, check Vehix.com in your area and see if the same misinformation exists in other parts of the county. If so, you might want to drop them a note complaining that this false information is of no value and makes Vehix.com useless as a car shopping tool.