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As for longer change intervals that comes from modern day fuel injection and the ability to atomize fuel droplets better. Carborators would dump fuel in droplets, even at part throttle. When fuel injection came out it was computerized version of carborators, the old throttle body injection of the 80's proves this. Now with engines being equipped with high pressure fuel injectors and a fine mist vapor under part throttle driving the gas doesn't break down the oil as much, thus not requiring the frequency of the 3,000 mile oil changes like we've all been told from years of old.
On the carborated race cars we run 110 octane gas and only make a few 1/4 mile passes at a time. At the end of the day the oil has been beat with the raw racing gas being dumped into the crankcase. I've always changed my oil after every race weekend, just seems like cheap insurance. That's the same reason I will follow the 3,200 mile change interval recommended in the owners manual. I drive hard. 98% of the time I drive my CRD like a rented mule. I drive in sandy offroad conditions on the weekends with a lot of stop and go during my commute to and from work. I'm sure there are many here that won't see any of that so 12k for oil shouldn't be a problem. As for me and my driving style, another 13 qts. a year is a small price to pay to keep the "life blood" of the engine pumping smoothly. :shades:
However, I strongly suggest that you all order lives other than the ones you have. It clearly makes no difference to me, or might I suggest, 98.7% of others what the actual sweet spot on the tach is, or whether my oil is cf, or cf-4, comes from dead dinosaurs, or is made by merlin the magician.
Clearly, I am going to drive as fast (or slow) as I want and the chance of me driving 62mph to get the best mileage is slim, to say the least. At 62mph my biggest problem would be getting one of those freightliner diesels you all love so much running over the back of my poor little CRD. Maybe somewhere in the world everyone obeys the speed limit, but not anywhere I have either lived or driven. Driving for mpg may be a good idea in principle, but in practicality, I would be better off waiting for the millennium falcon (another star wars reference!)
As for the oil, WHO CARES !! I take it to the dealer at about 6500 miles and tell them to change it. If this is no good then too bad. I have always changed my oil according to manufacturers schedule and have NEVER EVER had a major malfunction due to oil problems. Has anyone else??
So, please if you want to talk about oil attributes, or mpg start a new thread which I don't have to read.
Thanks
As to motor oil, I am going to stick with a CI-4+ oil. No 5W-40 though, but a synthetic 15W-40. If you look at the specs for a synthetic 15W-40, they are quite close to those of a synthetic 5W-40.
Still have the original EGR valve, no stuttering, stammering, nothing, even when cold (single digit cold). Use plenty of cetane improver with each fill. Generally start with 45 cetane fuel so with the cetane improver, I know I am at 50+ cetane.
tidester, host
I recently tested my Optima battery (1 yr old) and it put out 900 amps at 60 F. I also read the voltage on the charging system during operation. The odd thing is that the voltage was all over the place. My Japanese car reads a steady 14.3 volts no matter what I have running. The CRD voltage ranged from the high 13s to the high 14s, very unsteady, but mostly around 14.4 volts at an idle.
Don't worry even a little about the black oil, its normal. Your oil consumption is less than mine was at 2.2k miles. At 17.5k miles, I am heading toward 1/4 quart over the last 5.5k miles (it hasn't stopped using oil yet).
I have had 4 episodes of shudder that lasted about 5 seconds each. The last one was about 3k miles ago. Don't know what caused it, probably never will. I had a computer reflash after the first one and as you can see it didn't help.
For me, the "sweet spot" is 1900 RPM and 66.2 MPH in 5th gear. I drive that speed no matter what, even through school zones (not).
My first choice for oil is 5W40 Mobil 1. My second choice is Rotella T 5W40. Some times I lie in bed at night and go over oil specs in my head. It helps me sleep.
Just FYI
Seems like the money that anyone spends on gas is negated by the added cost of using "boosters" at $5+ a bottle. That's just my opinion, I could be wrong, but usually I'm not wrong.... just mistaken.
#1 reason I add it is for the lubricity to protect the fuel and injection system.
#2 Anti-gel in the winter.
I've personally seen the proof of benefit in the life of injection systems doubled when using PS. This is in a fleet of light and medium duty diesel trucks used to service agriculture in the Midwest.
- benefits of Power Service - quoting Power Service -
Winter Performance Benefits:
Prevents fuel gelling in temperatures as low as -40°F. No Gelling Guaranteed!
Equals the performance of a 50/50 blend of No. 2 and No. 1 diesel fuels
Lowers Cold-Filter Plugging Point (CFPP) as much as 36°F. — keeps fuel-filters from plugging with wax
Boosts cetane up to 4 numbers for easier cold starts
Contains anti-icing additives — protects against fuel-filter icing
Year-Around Performance Benefits:
benefits of Power Service quoting Power Service -
Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) Compliant — does not affect the sulfur content of diesel fuel
Effective in all diesel fuels, including ULSD and biodiesel blends containing up to 20% biodiesel (B20)
Boosts cetane up to 4 numbers — engines run smoother with less power lag
and reduced emissions
Cleans dirty fuel injectors — exceeds Cummins L10 Injector Depositing Test Superior specifications
Reduces visible exhaust emissions (HC, PM) up to 25 percent and reduces NOx and CO emissions up to 14 percent
Increases power — reduces need for downshifting during high-load conditions
Decreases fuel consumption up to 5 percent — fuel savings exceed cost of additive
Contains Slickdiesel® for maximum fuel lubrication — protects fuel injectors and pumps against accelerated wear from Low and Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) fuels
Stabilizes fuel in equipment tanks — improves diesel fuel’s resistance to thermal and oxidative degradation
Stabilizes stored fuel — protects against conditions that promote microbial contamination
-end
I purchased a diesel for it's torque, it's longevity, it's towing ability, and it's economy.
A 2% added cost to my fuel for a >20% increase in mpg provided by owning a diesel is well worth the money!
The increase in smoothness and decrease in smoke with additive is just a bonus.
Unfortunately for me, there is no high quality diesel fuel available in my area.
Tractor Supply Co. (TSC)
Walmart
Truckstops
Bomgaar's in Iowa is where I obtain mine, good sale prices.
Advance Auto Parts
Those are a few of the places that carry it. Diesel Fuel Supplement in the Winter and Diesel Kleen in the warmer months.
Stanadyne may be just as good as PS, I do not have much experience with it and it is more expensive than PS.
Gary in Phoenix, AZ
TIA
Last year was the first time in 10 years that diesel was higher cost than unleaded for any length of time. In previous years, it was only higher when Winter arrived, maybe for a month or two and then it would always be less than regular unleaded.
Provent is not an option it is a must. It was discussed here last year and I heard but did not listen. My first turbo, first diesel, first jeep.
First, again retmil46, reading this Austin story really got to me at lost but I had misguided faith in dc. The reposting and then the reading by my better half and myself started this project which should never have to be if dc weren't a bunch of dastardly villains. I experienced ford dipstick problems with a 1996 351 windsor block and posted earlier here at edmunds(but the crd has given me a new dipstick problem-my tranny dipstick keeps popping out of the tube). I have never added oil to my crd to bring the dipstick up to full. Read my first post 1800 something - four months with a crd. Ask your Austin friend if he is getting accumulation in his provent. I believe my selling dealership overfilled the engine at delivery. I never see a full dipstick after my thorough draining at oil changes. I believe overfilling brings up pressure real quick for the factory ccv to blow it to the turbo causing puddles of oil and blown egr's.
Now yesterday and right now I have installed a homemade collector using the blue steel inner braided washing washine hose cut in two, (3) nylon 3/4 to hose barb ftg's, a small piece of nylon reinforced vinyl for the collector with a brass garden hose cap, and a small piece of 3/4 emission hose at the factory ccv, and a garden hose Y. My intercooler hose is drying (I wish I had a case of carb cleaner to blow into the intake to clean that crap out).
What I found yesterday and today using mobil 1 0w40 until my change to 5w40 mobil 1. My brand new turbo to intercooler hose already has oil paths. The intercooler hose from the intercooler to the intake had some fluid and mostly vary tacky black goo - sooted, heated mobil 1. I cleaned it with simple green,old t-hirts and a flexible ramrod. The anti-shutter valve had a thick layer of wet goo which took a lot of simple green and paper towels (no lint wanted in the intake). Using a very old dentists' mirror, I saw crap up in the intake past the anti-shutter valve and it made me mad as.
I want the intercooler cleaned. After I'm done and cleaned up I'm calling Freightliner 24/7 service in fort worth for help - but if anybody in dallas/fort worth or anywhere in a days drive from here please post.
The person at ----forum if your here and you still are using ps fluid after the parts changeout try a new $11 ps reservior cap and make sure it is level and not warped-one of my many problems and jeep service manager and I found another one on an unsold one on the lot. I paid out of pocket because the service writer wanted me to put in the shop for mechanic evaluation-bs.
Accelerate 3/4 throttle or more to 40-60 mph and then lift off throttle and maintain speed and more often than not, my CRD will shudder and stutter. I'm used to it now. Unless a TSB is available that explains the problem and the fix, local dealership can not figure it out.
Having survived cancer, blood clots in my lungs and a couple other real bad situations, my focus is not on this means of transportation. I do not mean to hint I am going to neglect the CRD, but it is not my priority in life. Thanks for you declaration of freedom from making the CRD the primary object of your life. However, I am going way out on a limb by stating how I think, which is pretty.....Farout
I have only used 1 quart of oil and that was at 3800 miles. I changed my oil at 9,101 miles and it was right up on the full line. At 11,000 miles the oil is full.
I am becoming more convinced that this CRD engine is a tough engine. I tried the cetane booster, and the cetane booster anti gel, and it made no difference at all. Perhaps someday it might, but now it's a waste of money for me. I doubt the fuel is one bit better than anyone else is able to get. I have tried BP, MFA, Philips 66 and the CRD ran like a Rabbit with it's tail on fire and ran.....Farout.
LK
I have learned some interesting things on this forum. I did learn that my EGR would fail (it did at 10k), but I also learned to ignore the people who went screaming into the night like nancy boys about DC's engineering failure which was also going to cause the world to end.
Personally, when I am sitting around the camp fire discussing lubrication, it has nothing to do with cars, but thats just me
And the major problem with this setup is not that the intercooler and hoses get gunked up with oil, but that once past the mixing valve, the oil combines with soot from the EGR system to form a hard gunk in the intake manifold. If allowed to continue, it eventually builds up to the point that it starts clogging the intake manifold. Removing and cleaning the intercooler would be a breeze compared to having to disassemble the engine and chip all that crap out of the manifold.
From what I've gathered from the VW crowd, at least on TDI's, is that it takes on the order of 60 to 80K miles or better before matters get to the point that it needs to be dealt with. That might be why DC opted for the simple solution on their CCV setup. They figured most owners would have traded off their vehicles before intake clogging became noticeable, much less have a clue what was actually going on with the CCV system and that it was even happening.
This is my first diesel as well, and most of the stuff I've brought up concerning oil, fuel, CCV system, Provent, etc, I've learned from current/former TDI owners that also bought a CRD. They've already "been there, done that" when it comes to owning a diesel.
Actually, I do agree with farout and vtdog on not spending any more than is necessary to keep the vehicle operating properly. The difference is, different people draw the dividing line between "necessary" and "extravagant" at different points. I also believe in the old saying that "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". In this case, I believe the Provent will end up saving me a repair bill several times it's cost down the road.
"Use plenty of cetane improver with each fill."
I have read these posts and the improper titration of cetane being added to your fuel tank will cause problems throughout any rubber components.
Cetane is nothing more than acetone. Acetone DISSOLVES rubber over time. If your adding ridiculous amounts of cetane your shortening the life of rubber components in your CRD.
Where you might ask? Let's start with the rubber hose line linking your gas cap to your tank. Then any rubber fittings components from the tank to the high pressure fuel rail,....etc
So while properly titrated amounts of cetane are beneficial to the engine running smoother, plenty amounts of cetane as this poster notes will surely erode rubber.
Just goes to show you can't take everything you read at face value.
I have bought a lot of diesel fuel in Missouri and all of it has been good quality as far as no water and good mileage.
I measure the amount of improver I use per tankful and one sixteen ounce can will treat 100 gallons of diesel fuel or about 3 ounces per tankful.
I purchased my CRD because I knew the engine was solid, very solid. My first experience with diesels in the early 80's had been very positive so I wanted that experience again. So far, I have been very pleased. I have just over 8K miles on the thing and only two visits to the shop. Neither visit was really serious, a software update and an intercooler hose. Fuel economy continues to improve and in fact last week I drove from DC to a town just north of Philadelphia and got 29.4 mpg at a constant 65 mph.
You can get Redline products at Pep Boys. Go to their website link title. Select Dealers, enter your zipcode and select search.
As for Amsoil, go their website link title and do the same as you did in the case of Redline to find a distributor.
I will write VM Motori directly and ask them.
1. Higher cetane is better. You cannot kill any diesel with too much cetane. Higher cetane gives you a cleaner burn, more power, less soot/carbon residue, easier starting. He stated American diesel fuel is basically crap. He noted that European diesels are very clean in Europe and I think we all know the answer to that. He also stated that diesels have an optimum cetane number for best performance, but he could not provide that number.
2. Oil in the intercooler hose, etc. Unfortunately normal. Oil leaks past the bearing seal when cold (by design). I did not ask about using a Provent kit, but I am starting to re-think my position on that topic.
3. Oil type. He recommends using what DC calls for but stated that using a CI-4+ oil is better in a CCV system such as is found on our CRDs. He said that there would be no harm in using 15W-40 synthetic oil.
4. Additives: your choice. He sells FPDF(?). Very similar to Stanadyne. He knew of Amsoil and Redline too, also good. Recommended a good cetane improver. Injector cleaner also a good idea, but again it is your call.
Hope this helps.
I feel If I can get over 178,000 on my 96 Neon and it's still running good, than this CRD ought to do as good or better. I do not consider my ownership as being a test market for DCX. In fact I have never had anyone question me about how we like the CRD. I would have expected DCX to send out a questionnaire at some point, but nothing at all.
I guess they must think I live to....Farout