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Comments
Where did you get your CRD?
The answer to your question is Woodhouse in Blair, NE - purchased in Mar 05.
Woodhouse is very good with diesels.
The three common allotropes of carbon are diamond, graphite, and amorphous carbon (examples of amorphous carbon include charcoal, soot, and the coal-derived fuel called coke).
Used diesel engine oil has graphite soot.
While entirely amorphous carbon can be made, most of the material described as "amorphous" actually contains crystallites of graphite.
Amorphous carbon is actually made up of tiny bits of graphite.
Don't worry if your oil is black. Yes it is full of carbon but its not gritty diamonds or soot, it is GRAPHITE!!!
Graphite is a well known lubricant, but its presence in ordinary engines cause the oil to thicken.
One quote that I lost said that soot improves diesel oil up until it reaches the point where the oil can no longer keep the soot in suspension or it thickens too much.
I throw this out for discussion, not pretending to know anything about the subject. If it turns out that these quotes are pretty much true I’m going to 12k mile oil changes. Are there any experts out there on this topic?
300 hours X 55 mph = 15,000 miles
218.18 hours X 55 mph = 12,000 miles
My wild guess is going 12,000 miles between changes should be OK
And what repairs were done on your tranny...?
Mine will stutter in almost any gear, hot or cold. It almost always appears between 1700 to 2000 rpm.
Is it too much to expect a power plant that has been in vehicles for a number of years to operate smoothly...?
Nice to hear that somebody seems to have gotten a fix.
How is your fuel mileage...?
Thanks-
What I have in mind is the following: Could the transmission hesitations happen in the same conditions? Has anyone checked the engine rpm when the generator starts and stops charging? Depending on the electrical load, the generator will make the voltage go from 11.5 to 14 volts instantly. This is enough to create a problem.
By the way, Damoclès is my pcm+ecm+... computer :sick:
It was TSB 18-018-05 and they just flashed the computer.
The transmission had the torque converter, input shaft and pump replaced. They also put in an 8 row trans cooler, upgraded from the 6 row stock. The tech said that DC knows the original cooler isn't doing the job.
Mine actually stuttered a few times this morning, due to the load on the driveline, the 4WD does not always like to disengage since they repaired the transmission. I am going to get underneath and try adjust the linkage.
Mileage has gone up 10% since the trans repair.
I think it is caused by the EGR opening up a little too much.
There is a design quirk with this trans that many of you may not be aware of. When this trans sits overnight, the fluid drains out of the body into the torque converter. When you start it in the morning or after more than 4 hours and immediately put it into gear it may or may not move right away. If it does, it may act funky for a while or intermittantly.
My suggestion to all of you is try this. With the first start or if the car has been sitting for more than four hours let it idle for about 30 seconds before putting it into gear. This allows the pump(s) in the trans to fill everything. It has worked for me. When I first got my CRD last year, it would not move after starting it first thing in the morning. I called the dealer and they told me what I have written above. This was confirmed by a local Dodge dealer as Dodge has been using this trans longer than Jeep. There are two TSBs about this problem that I know of related to this drainback issue.
I have never had any kind of stuttering from the trans.
The trans cooler issue as I understand is related to the Liberty models with the V-6 and not with the diesel.
Don't quote me on this, as I haven't been able to verify it, but I have been told that this mixture, once it soaks into the inside of the intercooler hoses, will end up degrading the rubber and could eventually cause the hoses to fail. As I said, I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO VERIFY OR DEBUNK THIS CLAIM, let's just say in my case I decided not to put it to the test.
The reason i don't have the drain going back to my oil sump is, for one, I didn't feel like taking the time to rig up such a setup, and two, the sludge that forms and the liquid water that condenses out inside the filter. While water vapor being sucked into the intake is no problem, draining liquid water back into my oil sump gave me heartburn. In any case, the amount of oil I've seen collect in the drain tube over time, with running a decent CI-4 rated oil, IMHO wouldn't justify the time and effort trying to rig up a drain back to the sump.
As far as warranty, to be honest, your guess is as good as mine. What you dealership service dept says is going to be what matters. From what I've heard so far, from people that have Provents installed and visited their dealer for service, is that they either took no note of it, or when they explained to the service techs what it was, actually received a pat on the back for trying to take good care of their vehicles. I haven't tested this out myself. I designed my install so I can remove the Provent and hook everything back up to stock in less than 5 minutes, and that's what I've done the last two times I've visited the dealer. As much to have the extra hardware out of the way as a courtesy to the guy servicing my vehicle, as to not wanting to test the warranty waters.
Now, if Daimler would only install this engine in a midsize or 1/2" ton truck I would be satisfied.
I miss my pickup, don't miss 15 mpg.
I start mine & let idle for ~30 sec to get all the fluids flowing. It is 1/2 mile downhill to the road and about 5 miles cross country before I get to the highway.
The stutter is definitely not the torque converter low on fluid. Mine is now only doing it when I am loading the driveline in 4WD and only occasionally.
As to the trans cooler, the tech told me that they upgraded it when doing the transmission repair per STAR. Before my temp gauge croaked, the temp was down 40-50 F. I used to be able to get to 205 real easy. I could only get to 165 doing the same things.
It may be a combination of a good torque converter and upgraded cooling capacity, I am not sure. But it runs better and my mileage is up.
My dealer called yesterday to say that Chrysler had just issued a software update to address the shuttering issue. My service manager said the update is dated 03/07/06 and is intended to adjust the motor and tranny.
Stay tuned...
My father owns a 2005 jeep liberty CRD. He has about 11k and is recieving about 21 in the rural areas and best on the interstate is 23.3. And he is driving it in the sweet spot 1700to1800 rpm. Jeep is telling him he will not recieve the good mileage till 20k. Is this just a tactic to get him to shut up or is it true. What is the mileage of your CRD? what economy are you getting??
There was one customer who came in with an EGR problem. The dealer said DCX would not stand behind the EGR because he had not kept the oil at the weight that the Owners Manual clearly states. DCX, told my dealer they will void the CRD 7/70 or 3/36 (depending on the year) if they can prove noncompliance.
I asked the dealer is going 9,000 miles is a problem, as I am not a schedule A or B, so I split the mileage of the oil changes.
Maybe my dealer is making this up, I don't know. I do know that I have gone 11,200 miles with the 0-40 oil and have not used any oil from the last change at 9,000 miles. On using a provent Star says it does not void and part before anything enters the filter. Anything after the provent is no longer covered. This doesn't sound like a risk I am willing to take in a match with DCX.
So take it for what ever it is worth to you.
Farout
The only issue I have had is unless I take the OD off before going into a long dip in the road it kicks out of Curse Control. This took some time to find out what the way to keep it locked in, but it's one of these things when it Cruse Control is not controlled by a servo but a computer.
Farout
Farout
Farout
I am getting around 30 mpg on the highway and have barely 8.1K on my CRD.
there are a couple of factors to look at that may help mileage in your case.
These have helped me yield 27-30mpg on average.but during breakin period I had about the same mileage as well.
Hopefully this will help..
1/every fill up use a fuel additive for diesel fuel.
power service,is good ,stanadyne is another.
-Lucas upper cylinder lube additive is a good injector cleaner.
This helps stabalize old fuel with high water content,possibly stale may have been sitting for awhile.
Old fuel generally yields poor mileage.
2/fuel quality-
try to use a premium brand of fuel,
B.P.premium,
Citgo#2,
Sonoco gold,
Shell diesel Ultra,
all have higher cetane levels.
If not available go to a station that serves fuel to diesel trucks.The fresher the fuel the better mileage,and performance.
3/Check tire pressures.they should be at 35psi.
Thus lowering rolling resistance will help,as well.
4/oil changes at 4000 mile intervals when breaking in,or before a long trip.
5/use cruise control when possible.keep speed under 60mph on the hyway.
Good Luck ..
Lightnin3...
I found a chart a year and a half ago that was made by someone in Europe. I think it was a Volvo diesel but now a daze (sic) my memory is about a long as an ineffective part of my anatomy. The chart was over a very long period of time and miles. The chart showed an improvement of about 25 percent. If memory serves it was over 250k miles and 7 years. He made no claim as to why this occurred. In retrospect, a small portion of the improvement may have been advanced smoothing of engine parts. However, I think most of it was due to improvements in fuel quality over the time period. Improvements in fuel quality may be confusing a lot of folks on this subject. I don’t really know.
This, I do know. I logged my first 27+ mpg at 2,500 miles. It was May and the weather was much warmer. That was also about the time I settled into 65 mph on the highway as the speed that gave me good mileage and let me get somewhere in a reasonable amount of time. My mileage drops off dramatically above 65 mph to around 23 mpg at 80 mph and improves to around 32 mpg at 55 mph. I have charted every fill-up and there is no discernable improvement in overall fuel economy at 17,000 miles. If I understood your post correctly, this supports what you said.
When we get better fuel later on this year I hope to see my mileage improve a little. If it does, I will attribute it to better fuel not engine break-in.
Focus more on the fuel filter. Don't let it go more than 15,000 miles. Diesel fuel systems are very close tolerance
Now do I install Mud flaps or does the mud on the side of the doors act as a visual enhancement?
In a prior post I said that I get 32 mph at 55 mph. that was on flat highway. I have been going to the Ozarks for 7 years now and I have yet to find a flat piece of road anywhere, period. The only way I can get good mileage in the area is by conserving momentum - letting the vehicle speed up on down hills and slow down on uphils (that will eventually get me a ticket).
Most of the time (like you said) there is someone driving 45 mph in a 2-lane 55 mph zone backing up 10 cars and I am one of those 10 cars. When I am at the head of the line I drive 65 mph (in a 55) and I still back up 10 cars - can't seem to win. Cruse seems to be worthless there unless overdrive is off. Spice of life.
I accumulate 30K+ miles per year so my factory warranty will expire after a year. I plan to keep it for 100K+ so I am going to use premium oil. My plan is to change the oil and filter at 500 miles to get the "crap" out of the engine. Then install 15W-40 Rotella T and run it another 2500-3000 miles to promote good breakin. Then I am not sure if I will continue with 15W-40 or use 10W-30 Rotella T or 5W-40 Rotella Synthetic. The oil will be CI-4 API. I may switch and see what effect they have on fuel mileage.
As for fuel, locally (NE OH) the fuel of choice is BP Supreme but I am planning to top treat with Stanadyne Performance Formula at every fill. I heard from one source that BP uses methanol in the winter. I do not like methanol in Diesel fuel.
Just my 2 cents FWIW.
tidester, host
Best of luck! LK
A fair review. Much better than the Tribune!
The oil seems to be a concern to VM Motori and DCX to make an issue over using either 0-40 or 5-40. I would think that frequent oil changes within the Owners manual requirements is vital, if one expects DCX to honor their 7/70 or 3/36 or service contract extended mileage. I personally took the $0 ded. 100,000 mile service contract. I fully expect DCX to take of problems until my 100,000 miles is up.
So id the oil they say to use is bad, it's going to be bad for them. I think the engine is not designed for peak performance with 15-45 or 10-30 oils. I believe they have wiser engineers who know far more than me that have worked these issues out. The DCX tec told me the Owners Manual oils are designed for lubercation and fuel mileage. I think I will take their word for it, and play it safe.
If you put on the same amount of mileage as I do, and you say you do, then seriously consider the Max care $0 ded. 100,000 Chrysler Service Contract. For a five year Max Care $0 ded. 100,000 mile Service Contract, you can get it for $42.50 a month 36 month interest free contract. Your dealer CAN DO THIS is he really wants your business. The thing is the dealer gets nothing until you pay off this contract. I have done this three times, and the dealer trys to say he can't do it, but when he calls the Service Contract people they will tell him how. I have never lost money on a Service Contract. All it takes is a transmission repair and BINGO, it's paid for itself.
I also save every paper or receipt in a folder. I have never have lost a disagreement with regards to if an item should be covered. In fact Chrysler replaced a 1996 Caravan with 21,000 miles on it for only $12.50. It was in the shop 21 times in 6 months. I found Chrysler easy to work with as long as I had my paper work. I also continued to have a good attitude with the Service Manager, and praised anyone who could be thanked for their help. An ounce of butter is better than a pound of complaints. At least thats how it has worked for me. Hope your CRD comes early!
Farout
It would appear that DC, although not openly acknowledging a problem, is aware of the issue since they have "redesigned" those two components. Let's face it, whether I like or you like it, we bought first year model runs of the CRD. We will be the guinea pigs for DC! They are obligated to take care of those problems. The bigger issue is having a service department with qualified diesel tech's who know thier butt from thier elbows! I have been fortunate to have a service dept. manager who does not blow off your problems and they have an exceptional young man who went to school for diesel's for 2 1/2 years. He is tenacious and will bug the crap out of DC when there is a problem. I wish everyone had a service dept. like the one I visit.
tidester, host
As for oil if it doesn't turn this ucky black then that is something to be concerned about. Any idea where A person gets an oil analysis at a good price. Would a truck stop be the best?
Farout