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Comments
I think the 160 hp is more than adaquite for passing. I have had no problems pasing when I found I needed to pass.
Farout
Farout
Thanks for the service contract advise. The 2006 comes with just the standard 3/36 warranty. I plan to investigate additional coverage. I have never purchased an extended warranty but this time it may be a wise investment.
Oil analysis: I am spoiled because I can get oil analysis thru my employer at an "attractive" price. I recommend you contact your local dealer, a local HD truck dealer, or an oil distributor. I do know that John Deere dealers sell oil sample kits that include analysis. I do not know if truck stops sell these kits. Good luck!
I haven't looked lately but I have seen links to mail in analysis companies over in the Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 discussion before.
Flying J supposedly does them on-site in 5 minutes at a dozen locations around the US; no idea what the price is.
Steve, Host
For those with new vehicles starting out doing this, don't be alarmed at the metal counts for the first couple of oil changes, at least until the engine gets broken in. There is some good literature also available to help interpret the results from most of the above places. They also explain how to take a good sample, which is just as important.
Regards
Dzlmyster
As to the fuel filter, I have yet to find an aftermarket.
Caution on adding aftermarket engine stuff, it just might void your warranty. Best to check first. I am going on the fact if DCX has not worked out the worst of the problems on this CRD, after experimenting over in Europe for almost 15 years, then they got a problem...me. I do not expect anything but the normal little things. And so far in 11,300 miles no problems, which is as I expect.
Farout
I was amazed at how small the engine really was. I wonder what the engine sounds without the cover when driving? Maybe I will try it sometime just to see. I will bet someone already has. Has anyone?
Farout
As far as draining a small amount of fuel to check for water, rather simple. Disconnect the sensor from the bottom of the filter, then unscrew the plastic fitting on the bottom of the filter about a half-turn or so, until you start to get fuel dribbling out. You can catch this in a small container and examine it for water. When done, retighten the fitting and reattach the sensor harness. Don't monkey torque the fitting, it's made of plastic with a rubber gasket, just good and snug.
To reprime and vent any air from the filter, you'll need an 11 mm wrench and a small container to catch any vented fuel. Operate the priming pump for 20 strokes, then open the bleed fitting on the filter head (looks like a brake bleed fitting)to vent any air, then shut the bleed fitting. Repeat the process until you get nothing but fuel out the bleed fitting.
A clogged fuel filter is not outside the realm of possibility. I've had two instances in 8500 miles, narrowed down by process of elimination to one particular station that was common to both times, a convenience store type setup with a single diesel pump and underground tanks. You can actually INCREASE your chances of getting a clogged filter by switching around to different stations. Try to avoid small out of the way stations, or stations with only a single diesel pump that don't see that much business from the diesel crowd and/or have underground tanks. Try to stick to stations with a high volume of business and/or truck stops.
You need to figure out first which station or stations in your area sell good clean quality diesel, then run all the questionable stuff out and fill up with the known good fuel, THEN change out the fuel filter and see what the results are.
Biological contamination (microbes and other growies) is also a possibility, especially if you're getting old fuel from a station that doesn't see much business. This can clog up a fuel filter as well. When I do a fillup, in addition to 8 ounces of Power Service white bottle, I add a 1/2 ounce of biocide as a preventative measure. If nothing else, you can find it at a marine hardware store or service center, if you can't find it at any local truck stops.
Changing out the factory fuel filter is a PITA. You'll need a strap wrench of some type for removal and installation. I tried an oil filter wrench, can't get it on due to the proximity of other equipment. Makes it easier if you disconnect both fuel lines from the filter and the two electrical harnesses plugged into the filter head.
Because it's such a PITA to change out, I added in an aftermarket fuel filter/water separator ahead of the factory unit. PermaCool Fuel Filter/Water Separator kit, $50 from JC Whitney, rated for 2 micron and 24K miles, replacement filters are $18. The factory fuel filter costs $38 at the dealer and is a PITA to change, the Permacool filter cost $18 and I can change them in less than 5 minutes. Which one do you think I want to clog up first?
I see that the engine compartment needs some attention from an can of Gunk engine cleaner!
How long does it take to warm-up. I normally have to drive 3 to 4 miles to get the engine up to tempature?
This is exactly whay my user manual states, and my build is 06/05.
Regards
Dzlmyster
I like the truck and the mileage but I fear I've bought a lemon. Has any body had a similar problem?
I know most of you are going ... Duh! Well, I agree with you. Sometimes I wonder how I can function at all.
Also, is there a good web site that might explain in depth how the system works.
Use Full time 4WD for wet/rainy surfaces or on any dry surface where you want extra traction/control. In this mode front and rear wheels can turn at different speeds.
Use Part Time 4WD in snow, icy, muddy, loose gravel surfaces. Do not use on dry pavement as you will cause the system to bind up. In this mode all wheels turn at the same speed.
The LO version of 4WD part-time is for really bad situations such as pulling through mud or climbing very steep terrain. It is a pain to get into and out of. The one to two shift is very abrupt.
Hope this helps.
I should be getting paid for this, or at least a commission. :P
Glad I could help.
One maintenance tip. A couple of times a month I run my CRD in full-time mode for several miles. This allows the lubricant to be circulated through the transfer case and other areas that are normally not engaged while in 2WD. My dealer said it was not really necessary but I do it anyway.
Mine (build 02/05) doesn't seem to have that shown.
I looked at the provent someone installed and posted the pictures. My engine compartment has some other equipment installed where he put the provent. I doubt I have any room if I wanted to put it where he did. Does your engine have enough room?
Farout
I get 22mpg average and about 1/3 of the time about 23mpg. How do you do in stop and go?
Farout
Farout
Farout
Farout
Farout
I have averaged 23.3 over 10,000 miles. I drive over 300 miles per week all highway. My best tank was when I had 700 miles on the engine; 28.5, I have never seen that again. I track mileage every tankful and the brand. This high tank was BP. Short trips around town I take the wife's Civic.
It pains me, Winter2, to say that your dealer is right about this one. The front wheels turn the font driveshaft through the differential turning the bottom chain sprocket in the transfer case. The bottom sprocket and bottom of the chain constantly run semi-submerged in oil when your Jeep is in motion carrying oil to the top sprocket. Also there is an eccentric oil pump that pumps oil from near the bottom of the transfer case up to the main shaft whenever that shaft is turning.
2-wheel drive in these things only means that the front is disconnected from the rear even though everything in the transfer case still rotates pretty much at the same speed anyway, unless on corners. I rebuilt one of these units some time ago and they are well lubricated and not fragile.
However, I still do what you say because it just seems like a good idea. On some 4-wheel drives it’s more necessary than others because of all the parts that stop rotating when in 2-wheel drive.
I have been following you fuel mileage discussion and I think you might get a pleasant surprise if you go on a trip in warm weather on straight #2 diesel. If I drive from Osage Beach to Laurie when there is almost no traffic and not too many red lights I get around 25 mpg. When I do the same drive and there is a lot of traffic I am lucky to get 22 mpg. When I drive from Laurie to Sedalia early in the morning or late at night, when I can go with the flow of the hills, 26 to 27 mpg is easy. On the interstate at 65 mph, 29 to 32 mpg is usual on cruise for 100 mile stretches. Catch a tail wind and 32 mpg at 70 mph is realistic.
The point is I think we are getting the same mileage under the same conditions.
I am not always right, so do not be in pain. I learn from everyone else in this forum just as you do.
I tend to over maintain my cars/trucks by habit. I have found that this bit of over maintenace pays for itself down the road in fewer repairs and in fewer breakdowns. One of the other reasons I run in full time 4WD is to remind myself of how differently the CRD handles and reacts as well as responds to inputs from the right foot.
Your description of how the transfer case is designed and works is welcome. How many miles were on this transfer case that was rebuilt? Why did it require rebuilding?
Towwme, does your handle mean you have your CRD set up to be towed? If so what equipment did you get? What would you get if doing it again? Did an RV center handle adding the tow bar or did you do it? Do you use an auxiliary brak system (a gadget that pushes the Jeep's brake peddle when the RV wants to stop.)
Oddly enough, a well oiled carrier bearing on the front drive shaft output (GC V8) was getting a little loose and making a little noise – radio off, windows down, quiet road. It might have went a long time before it actually failed. I bought a kit that contained all of the big bearings and all of the seals for $108 and just replaced all of those parts.
I ran it pretty hard in deep gravel in low range once pulling a Suburban out of a ditch. Maybe that did it, maybe not. Anyway, it’s a pretty cheap rebuild if you do it your self and don’t need any of the major parts. Who knows what the previous owner did with it. There was some fine sand in some odd places, like above the rear gas tank shield.
Parts were cheap enough. Did you get them aftermarket or at the dealer?
I did not realize the GC was used when you bought it. I refuse to buy a used car because most people tend to abuse what they own and get rid of them just before they start having to put money into them.
On the "hats" spray them on the inside with white grease and the cover will come off easily and stay on the cover.
Winter2, the parts were aftermarket but looked exactly like OEM. Jeep wanted more than half as much for one bearing and one seal as the entire kit cost. I found the kit while searching for individual parts.
I think the parts came out of Nevada but my search turned up other locations with prices that ranged from 130-$164. Maybe prices have gone up a little.
I have heard of these transfer cases going over 200k miles with no problems.